Rooster Rehab (advice needed)

[Zoologist]

I haven’t seen this problem addressed so wanted to get your comments and ideas on this subject.

A little backstory. I’ve had my rooster since he was about 6 months I believe from a breeder. We thought he was a girl so he was named Kitty (he is a silkie) Kitty was clingy, always following me around since the hens were always mean to him. I didn’t realize when he started showing rooster behavior such as biting my hens backsides. He was never able to mate with them as he is smaller (none of them are silkies all are bigger breeds)

We got him a friend silkie hen when he was 7-8 months as one of our hens had passed away leaving a spot to fill in the flock. I knew instantly that it was a rooster when he attacked and mated the new hen.

Up to date as of recent he has been trying to get the other hens (some success, but nope) the silkie hen likes him. But he thinks I’m a hen as well and has been aggressive with me. Today he tried fighting with my hand. He’s been biting hard enough to draw blood.

My solution? I’ve been pinning him down like another rooster would do until he stops wiggling (not enough to cut off his air circulation) holding him without his feet touching my hand, and slight pressure when I pet him so he has to bend down a bit. I hope this will work.. he is not afraid of me I believe he does this because I’m at the top of the pecking order and all the hens know it. Getting me under his control would give him a foot up, but ya his plan will never work because I don’t let aggressive chickens win.

He’s stubborn and will be hard to break of this habit. Any advice or tips would be appreciated. If any of this you don’t understand I’ll help clarify it!

 

[Folly's place]

You might win, but don't count on it! And he's likely to attack other humans anyway; do you have children or visitors out there? He won't be safe around them unless he really changes.
I want my roosters to respect my space and move out of my way, and don't offer my delicate body parts (like fingers!) to be bitten! He does seem to think you can be pushed around, or eliminated, and isn't smart enough (tiny chicken brain, large testicles!) to think he's way outmatched.
We used to try everything to reform cockerels who became human aggressive, and failed. Now we just don't try, obnoxious rooster of any age are removed.
Mary

 

[MarlaMac]

I haven’t seen this problem addressed so wanted to get your comments and ideas on this subject.

A little backstory. I’ve had my rooster since he was about 6 months I believe from a breeder. We thought he was a girl so he was named Kitty (he is a silkie) Kitty was clingy, always following me around since the hens were always mean to him. I didn’t realize when he started showing rooster behavior such as biting my hens backsides. He was never able to mate with them as he is smaller (none of them are silkies all are bigger breeds)

We got him a friend silkie hen when he was 7-8 months as one of our hens had passed away leaving a spot to fill in the flock. I knew instantly that it was a rooster when he attacked and mated the new hen.

Up to date as of recent he has been trying to get the other hens (some success, but nope) the silkie hen likes him. But he thinks I’m a hen as well and has been aggressive with me. Today he tried fighting with my hand. He’s been biting hard enough to draw blood.

My solution? I’ve been pinning him down like another rooster would do until he stops wiggling (not enough to cut off his air circulation) holding him without his feet touching my hand, and slight pressure when I pet him so he has to bend down a bit. I hope this will work.. he is not afraid of me I believe he does this because I’m at the top of the pecking order and all the hens know it. Getting me under his control would give him a foot up, but ya his plan will never work because I don’t let aggressive chickens win.

He’s stubborn and will be hard to break of this habit. Any advice or tips would be appreciated. If any of this you don’t understand I’ll help clarify it!

Saw this on another post as I was looking into a similar situation. I saved it to word, so I cannot give credit where credit is due. My apologies to the original poster.

"I'm going to give you a clue on "rooster speak"....holding him down doesn't mean anything to him. If you'll watch how roosters interact between dominant ones and subordinate ones, there is rarely any, if ever, holding a bird down for a long time when there is an altercation. There is very quick flogging, gripping by the back of the head and flinging him away or getting him down and giving some savage pecking to the back of the head or neck. No holding him down and nothing else. That's a rooster on a hen maneuver, not rooster on rooster.

Because your rooster is attacking you, you are the subordinate in this picture. You are getting dominated by your bird simply because you are walking where a subordinate isn't supposed to be walking when a dominant is in the area. What you never see is a dominant rooster getting attacked by a subordinate rooster unless there is going to be a definite shift in power, at which time the sub will challenge the dom and win...or lose. So far you are losing and not even challenging.

If you want to win this battle, you must go on the offensive, not the defensive. He who attacks first, and is still claiming the area when the other guy leaves it, is the winner. Some people never have to go on the offensive because their movements in the coop are so decisive that they move and act like a dominant and a 2 ft. rooster is smart enough to recognize a dominant attitude and behavior...which is likely why he's never attacked your husband. Most men move more decisively than do women and children and they rarely step around a bird, but walk through them.

Carrying him around also doesn't mean anything to him...it just doesn't translate at all. His environment is that coop and run floor and that's where you need to speak to him, in a language he understands. Because they are quick on their feet and can evade you, you need a training tool like a long, limber, supple rod of some kind...cutting a nice switch from a shrub or tree that will lengthen your reach by 5 ft. really helps in this. Don't use a rake or broom because they are too clumsy and stiff and can put the hurts on the guy when you don't really mean to.

When you enter your coop, walk with decisive movements and walk directly towards your rooster. Move him away from the feeder and the rest of the flock and keep a slow, determined pressure on him until he leaves the coop. The stick will help you guide him. Then...wait patiently while he gets his bird mind around what just happened. He will try to come back in the coop...let him. When he gets a good bit into that coop, take your switch and give him a good smack on the fluffy feathers under his tail if you can aim it well. If you cannot, just smack the floor near him very hard and fast until he hops and runs and keep at it until he leaves the coop once again. Repeat this process until he is too wary to come back in the coop.

Feed your hens. When he tries to come to the feeder, you "attack" him with the switch...smack the wall by the pop door just as he tries to enter. If he makes it inside, pursue him with the stick either smacking the floor or tapping him on the back or the head until he leaves in a hurry. Make him stay outside while you sit there and enjoy watching your hens eat. Use the stick to keep him from the flock..just him. Don't worry about the hens running and getting excited when this is happening...they will get over it. This is for the future of your flock and your management of it.

When the hens have had a good tucker....leave the coop and let him come back in. Go out later and walk through that flock and use your legs to scatter birds if they get in your way...top roosters do not step to one side for any other bird in the flock. You shouldn't either. Take your stick and startle him with a smack on the floor next to him when he is least expecting it...make that bird jump and RUN. Make him so nervous around you that he is always looking over his shoulder and trying to get out of your way. THAT'S how he needs to be from now on in your lives together. Forget about pets or cuddles...this is a language and behavior he understands. You can hand feed him and such later...right now you need to establish that when you move, he moves...away. When you turn your back, he doesn't move towards you...ever.

Then test him...take your stick along, move around in the coop, bend over with your back turned to him, feed, water, etc....but keep one eye on that rooster. If he even makes one tiny step in your direction or in your "zone", go on the attack and run him clear on out of the coop. Then keep him out while everyone else is eating.

THAT'S how a dominant rooster treats a subordinate. They don't let them crow, mate or even eat in their space. If the subordinate knows his place and watches over his shoulder a lot, he may get to come and eat while the other rooster is at the feeder...but he doesn't ever relax if he knows what is good for him. At any given time the dominant will run him off of that feed and he knows it, so he eats with one eye toward the door. If he feels the need to crow, it's not usually where the dom can reach him...maybe across the yard.

If your rooster crows while you are there, move towards him and keep on the pressure until he stops. He doesn't get to crow while you are there. He can crow later...not while you are there.

It all sounds time consuming but it really isn't...shouldn't take more than minutes for each lesson and you can learn a lot as you go along. And it can be fun if you venture into it with the right attitude....this is rooster training that really works if you do it correctly. This can work on strange roosters, multiple roosters and even old roosters...they can all learn. You rule the coop...now act like it. Carrying is for babies...you have a full grown rooster on your hands, not a baby."

 

[Perris]

you may find this article helpful
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/understanding-your-rooster.75056/

 

[Silexian]

An old corn broom works great, for letting a rooster know you are not to be messed with. Long enough to keep him off of you. Firm enough to ruffle his feathers, while soft enough not to damage him.

 

[MarlaMac]

you may find this article helpful
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/understanding-your-rooster.75056/

This IS a great article. I was a little surprised to see that the "tribe" size was so small, especially since the "advertised" hen to rooster is much higher. Perhaps that has something to do with domestication of chickens...?... Gives me hope for my little cockerel and his small flock.

I have one hen that hates our rooster. She tries to stay away from him all day. He will chase her down and mate her, but she refuses to shake afterwards. She is spending her time with the younger cockerel. We shall see what happens. I am thinking my coop expansion needs to include a separate coop for this group coming up now. They free range all day, so I will only need to separate out sleeping quarters/laying boxes. Back to the drawing board.

 

[Keeper of Flocks]

If you want to win this battle, you must go on the offensive, not the defensive. He who attacks first, and is still claiming the area when the other guy leaves it, is the winner. Some people never have to go on the offensive because their movements in the coop are so decisive that they move and act like a dominant and a 2 ft. rooster is smart enough to recognize a dominant attitude and behavior...which is likely why he's never attacked your husband. Most men move more decisively than do women and children and they rarely step around a bird, but walk through them.

This has helped me, read this years ago.
Move decisively as the dominant!
I generally don’t concern myself with the eating, crowing, and mating, once he knows his place. I allow those behaviors for well behaved roosters. This is because, if overly done, I think you can create a very tense relationship between you and him. So, it depends on his character and what he needs, that I do.

 

[Folly's place]

And I think that that advice came from @Beekissed , loved her comments always!
Mary