That is a forced air incubator right? Have you candled the eggs yet to see if you can see any signs of life? I'd start there. Do you plan on doing eggtopsies on the egg? If you can handle them, they can be helpful in pointing out the possible reasons. Are you using an idependant checked thermometer in the bator? I am assuming that you didn't monitor the humidity other than adding water every two days. (I really wished these companies would stop giving instructions like this.) A big factor is, are these shipped eggs or local eggs???
The first thing you want to do, is have your own checked and accurate thermometer. I keep two in my bator. Never trust a thermometer that hasn't been checked, even the digital readouts on the incubators. Janoels have a better reputation than some of the others, but any incubator can have it's settings and readouts thrown off in shipping/transportation. So you want to verify that the temps are accurate. Most experienced hatchers have a thermometer that's been checked, or can be checked to use as a guide for all others.
Humidity- this is where those manuals do new hatchers a BIG injustice. Different levels work for different people because there are many variances between the hatchers. The incubator companies do not take this into consideration. Your environment/climate, your hatching habits, egg and shell quality and size, will all effect what you need for humidity. Say we both have the same bator, but live in very different climates. If I am in a dry climate, adding water every two days may give me 30-35% humidity, which may work perfectly fine for my eggs. If you live in a more humid area, adding that much water could give you 50-60% humidity, which would probably cause multiple drowned chicks come time to hatch. And that's only one variable. I highly suggest having a hygrometer as a guide. (Many people use the cheaper ones that you can get in the reptile section at the pet stores and say they work great.) Here's my answer to figuring out humidity:
http://letsraisechickens.weebly.com...anuals-understanding-and-controlling-humidity This is the method I use and I swear by it. (BTW, I run dry when I can, prefering 30% humidity the first 17 days.)
Most people go into lockdown at day 18, (3 days prior rather than the 5 your book tells you.) That's when they remove the eggs from the turners and lay them down and higher the humidity. (I use 75%+ for lockdown.) I also stop turning at day 14 instead of the more popular day 18.
I will also give you a hatching guide from a hands on perspective. This is my philosophy:
http://hatching411.weebly.com/
Now, I will say when I did my silkie eggs, they were really small compared to my standard eggs and I had to raise my humidity for the first 17 days to between 40-45% so that they weren't loosing too much moisture and my air cells were not growing too big too fast.
I hope some of this might help in future hatches.
