Related Forum Threads
- The Incubator Thread Last post on 5/6/13 at 6:11pm in Incubating & Hatching Eggs
- Anyone in want some FREE hatching eggs? [English Orp x BO [or Cochin]] Last post on 2/10/13 at 12:05pm in Chicken Hatching Eggs
- Chicken Nutrition- What Your Chicken Needs in Its Feed Last post on 5/5/13 at 8:04pm in Feeding & Watering Your Flock
- Diary & Notes ~ Air Cell Detatched SHIPPED Eggs Last post on Today at 11:51 am in Incubating & Hatching Eggs
- Fort Mill, SC looking for Black Australorps... Last post on 7/10/12 at 10:59am in Chicken Breeders & Hatcheries
The Ultimate Medicine Dosing Chart
Edited on 10/17/12
- LilyAshley11's PageEdited on 6/25/12
- Quack!Edited on 6/11/12
- Incubation Cheat Sheet
Alphabetical Article List
Hatching Eggs 101
Incubation Notes, Images, Videos & Links
Including SHIPPED EGGS INCUBATION Techniques.
21 DAYS is just a baseline for hatching eggs.
Many chicks can take 23 - 25 days!
See Chart below for details on the various species of fowl
Expected Hatch Rate
Don’t count your chickens before they are hatched, or even after for that matter!
Shipped eggs have a MUCH lower hatch rate.
The percent hatchability in the commercial poultry industry ranges from 78-88%.
Choosing an incubator
Many different styles of incubators are available, most common are Styrofoam types found at most feed stores. These incubators hold more eggs and are usually less expensive, but they require more involvement in the hatching process. Egg turners are usually optional that can be added for convenience. There are also some great “hands free” incubators, commercial incubators as well as Simple Inexpensive Homemade Incubators. My husband and daughter made a “Coolerbator” it works 100% better than our store bought incubator because it has less than .5 degree variance and we have very successful hatches in it!
The Coolerbator link and how to make it… http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/incubator-incubator
Links to help you decide on an incubator…….
LOCATION OF INCUBATOR
Locate your incubator in a room in which temperature is 70 degrees, free from drafts,
away from windows and direct sunlight.
Did you know that the Incubating practice originated more than 2,500 years ago in Egypt and China. Methods of incubation were kept secret for a long time. In Europe attempts to use incubation are known from the 14th century. Owing to the imperfection of incubation apparatus (casks submerged in rotted manure, bakers’ ovens, and so on) and inadequate study of the conditions of incubation, it did not become common. Only since the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century, with the invention of better incubators, has incubation become widely used in Europe and the USA; since the middle of the 20th century it has been the principal method of propagating poultry.
Collection & Storage of Eggs
Sources for eggs are to search the BYC buy sell trade section, Craigslist and eBay. Your local thread on BYC may be the best bet for local eggs! Look for your local site in the “Social section” “Where am I? Where are You!” on BYC. The following Word File can be used when ordering shipped eggs, it is our suggestion that you copy/paste/edit to help you get the best eggs possible. Letter written by ozexpat
Choose eggs that are of good size, not abnormally big or small. Do NOT set dirty, cracked, or porous eggs.
Clinical studies at the University of Arkansas have shown that if your going to set a dirty egg, set the dirty egg, DO NOT SAND, WASH OR WIPE dirty eggs as hatchability decreases with these practices!
The washing and rubbing action also serves to force disease organisms through the pores of the shell. Place the eggs upright in an egg carton with the FAT, air cell end of the egg UP! Allow eggs to sit in a moderately cool, somewhat humid place for storage. Basements are great. Moderately cool means 55-65 degrees. Rotate your eggs a 3 times a day to keep the embryo from sticking. An easy way to turn all of the eggs at once is to place a thick book under one end of the carton, and later remove the book and put it under the other end of the carton, 3 times a day. Before adding eggs to the incubator always WARM eggs UP slowly to room temperature. IF THE EGGS ARE COLD Condensation can cause bacterial growth on the eggs! You can collect eggs up until 10 days or so, but after the 7th day lower hatch rates may result.
Stored eggs take longer to hatch (about one hour per day of storage).
It is important to ALWAYS wash your hands before handling your hatching eggs!
Omphalitis, yolk sack infection is caused by a bacterium that enters through the porous egg shell and easily kills embryo's and newly hatched chicks. Unfortunately, incubation conditions are ideal for breeding bacteria as well as incubating eggs. For more information on storing eggs refer to Recommendations for hatching egg handling and storage
Is it Fertile or Infertile?
To check the fertility, simply break an egg in a bowl.
Find the white spot on the yolk. If you do not, use a spoon to gently flip the yolk over until you find it.
Bulls eye look is fertile.
A link with more pics of fertile vs Non Eggs! http://www.backyardchickens.com/t/16008/how-to-tell-a-fertile-vs-infertile-egg-pictures
A link with some good pics too!
Accurate and detailed records are very important in incubation.
In addition to records of individual eggs it is important to keep records of the temperature and the humidity, so that trends in temperature and humidity may be detected early and can be corrected for next hatch.
Here is a free app...http://homesteadapps.com/app/free/hatchchart/hatchturnscheentry.php
The following table lists incubation requirements for various species of fowl.
Incub. Period (days)
Do not turn
¹ Measured at degrees F. in a forced-air incubator. For still-air incubators, add 2-3 degrees F.
² Measured as degrees F. using a wet-bulb thermometer. Use chart to convert to relative humidity.
http://www.brackenridgeranch.com/hatching_5.html (Button Quail)
Areas of MOST IMPORTANCE in Hatching EGGS
Ventilation (Oxygen), Temperature, Humidity, Egg Turning/Positioning
Ventilation is VERY important during the incubation process.
While the embryo is developing, oxygen enters the egg through the shell and carbon dioxide escapes. Oxygen requirements will increases during development and during hatching. Unobstructed ventilation holes, both above and below the eggs, are essential for proper air exchange. HOWEVER New Studies (Show Dr.Bramwell Discussion) have found that a slight decrease in oxygen the first 10 days (ONLY the first 10) creates a natural higher CO2 level which will naturally build in the incubator and add a little stress to young embryos which will force the embryo to survive and grow stronger, hatch earlier, hatch larger, grow stronger, grow faster and yeild more muscle mass at 6 weeks of age. PUT THE VENT PLUGS IN FOR THE FIRST 10 DAYS ONLY and then REMOVE ALL VENT PLUGS for the rest of the hatch! NOTE: When Lockdown occurs, vent openings are frequently restricted in an attempt to boost incubator humidity. Instead of helping the chick hatch, the chick is suffocated from lack of oxygen. Never decrease ventilation openings at hatching in an attempt to increase humidity. Increase humidity by other methods. If any vent adjustments are made, they should be opened more. Try adding a dampened sponge or towel to help boost humidity during lockdown.
Never trust the thermometer that comes with the incubator, always check it.
The thermometer that came with my incubator was off by 5 degrees.
That could mean life or death for your babies.
With a Forced Air Incubator (fan model) you can get the best hatch rate by keeping the temperature at 99.5º F. throughout the entire incubation period. HOWEVER, when using a Still Air incubator (no fan) at 102º F. The reason for different temperatures is that with a fan model the circulating air warms all around the egg while still air temperatures are warmer at the top of the egg than at the bottom. The temperature is measured at the level where the embryos develop (at the top of the egg). A high temperature tends to produce early hatches. A consistently cooler temperature tends to increase incubation times and produce weakened chicks. In both cases the total chicks hatched will be reduced. Prepare your incubator and run it for several days before adding eggs, to be positive you are maintaining correct incubation temperature. NOTE: It is common that when adding eggs the temperature will drop but should come back up to correct temperature within an hour or two. Don’t rest the thermometer's bulb touching the eggs or the incubator. Incorrect readings will result. Did you know that 10/13 day old embryos begin to produce excess heat in the incubator? Most large commercial incubators will spend more time cooling than heating!
CALIBRATION! YES! It’s IMPORTANT!
Calibrate the thermometer/s you are using for your Incubator. I use 3 thermometers! You need to make sure your thermometer is reading correctly, Even one degree may cause serious problems with your hatch! A simple method without specialized instruments and knowledge is to compare your thermometer/hygrometer with other devices.
CALIBRATION of thermometers:
Freezing point method.
Fill a glass with crushed ice. Add a LITTLE clean water until the glass is full and stir. Wait 3 minutes then insert the thermometer tip into the ice-filled glass so it’s in the water ice mixture. Wait a minute and if the thermometer reads 32 F then it’s accurate, and if it does not, it requires calibration.
Boiling point method.
Boil water in a pot, about 6” deep. When the water is at boiling point, place the thermometer into the water and make sure that the tip stays in the middle of the boiling pot, away from bottom and sides. Wait 30 seconds and check if the thermometer reads correctly at 212 degrees if you are at sea level or below 1,000 feet elevation. The boiling point of water varies for different elevations: sea level at 212 F, 1000 feet at 210 F, 2000 feet at 208 F, 3000 feet at 206.4 F, 5000 feet at 202.75 F, and 8,000 feet at 197.5 F. The thermometer needs calibration if the reading is incorrect.
Calibrate the Digital Thermometer
Adjust the nut of the digital thermometer in order to correct the temperature. This is done by simply turning the adjuster until the correct reading is reached. Digital thermometers do not require any adjustment of a screw or nut. You simply need to locate the reset button. When the freezing point or boiling point of water is achieved, simply push the button and that’s it. Some digital thermometers may require you to push hold the reset button.
More information on Calibrating your thermometer/hygrometer:
VIDEOS SHOWING how to calibrate: http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+calibrate+thermometer+digital&oq=how+to+calibrate+thermometer+digital&gs_l=youtube-reduced.12...0.0.0.26184.108.40.206.0.0.0.0.0..0.0...0.0...1ac.
NOTE: Some incubators, even expensive ones may have "hot spots" or "cool spots" depending on air circulation inside the incubator.
Probe thermometer & water weasel (Water Wiggler, Water Snake) found on Amazon or Ebay make for EXCELLENT internal temp guides! The perfect internal temperature of an embryo is 99.5 degrees. If you can't find a water wiggler you can make your own with ziplock filled with water folded in half and insert the probe in the center middle.
Examples of thermometers and hygrometers
I personally like to keep a digital one that also keeps track of “highs and lows” along with 2 incubator thermometers AND a PROBE! It depends on how scientific you plan your hatch!
More Important than make/model is CALIBRATION.
It NEEDS TO BE SPOT ON!
What If the Power Goes Off?
To understand more about embryo viability & temperatures
Please refer to the following links….
Some other ideas to help maintain heat in your incubator and great when you turn by hand is by adding some sterilized rocks,
or even several sealed jars with warm water or small ziplock baggies with warm water to fill the empty incubator spaces.
A full incubator of eggs always helps maintain a steady temperature even if it’s not good for your chicken math!
The Air Bubble in the Egg
The average chicken egg has thousands of pores running through the shell allowing the embryo to exchange oxygen, carbon dioxide. and water. Soon after an egg is laid, a small air bubble or “air cell” forms in the large end of the egg from this water loss. Humidity levels in the incubator determine moisture evaporation during the 21 days of incubation and hatching. The air cell is crucial for the chick to break out of the egg shell at the end of the incubation period. The chick can drown if the air cell is too small or the chick may be retarded in growth if the air cell is too large. This is why maintaining the proper humidity is crucial. Slightly lower humidity levels are more likely to be less disastrous than slightly higher humidity levels. There are quite a few opinions on Humidity, but it is no set number.
Humidity is NOT A SET NUMBER, you need it YES!
However, you use it as a tool to "adjust" egg weight loss during incubation. We candle on days 7,10,14,18 To WATCH WEIGHT LOSS IN EVERY EGG! An EGG MUST lose approximately 13-14% of its weight during the incubation process. THIS IS YOUR GOAL!! You can monitor this by marking Air cells and also by weighing. Please refer to CANDLING section of this Article for more Air Cell info.
Size of air cell on day 7, 14, and 18 of incubation
I choose the easier method, keeping a close eye on air cell growth during incubation. You begin by ONLY adding a small amount of water and keep Humidity between 28%-45% and adjusting as you weigh or candle depending on moisture loss. So if your air cells look too large you must add humidity, too small lower it, and if your weighing you adjust as needed. UNTIL DAY 18 LOCKDOWN,
then stop turning and raise humidity to 65-70%
NOTES: It’s a good idea to keep the incubator plugged into a surge protector. Use distilled water in your incubator to help prevent bacteria growth. Omphalitis, Mushy Chick Disease and Yolk Sack Infection may be caused by a bacterium that enters through the porous egg shell. Unfortunately, incubation conditions are ideal for breeding bacteria as well as incubating eggs. Brinsea sells a disinfectant, formulated to be used for cleaning eggs, incubators, safe and effective against yeasts, fungi, viruses and bacteria which can cause fatal damage to the growing embryo. Pennies can be added to water wells. Copper helps to destroy the cell walls of bacteria, thus keeping bacteria out of the incubator. Pennies before 1982 have more copper content and pure copper kills 99.9% of bacteria.
A few TIPS & TRICKS!
Below image is a Simple waterer/suctioner out of aquarium tubing placed through side of incubator and into water wells. Use a Kids medicine syringe to add/suck water without opening or disturbing eggs.
In the image below are the different sized cups I use the first 18 days of incubation INSTEAD of using the wells in the bottom of the incubator. I had a hard time getting humidity correct, so I started using different size containers and caps for water holding, I could easily remove & replace as necessary. It WORKS WELL and I can keep them clean and sanitized better and not disturb my eggs! I will remove these cups on day 18 so the chicks don’t drown in them
and use the lower wells at lockdown at day 18.
2" funnel & we shoved it into a small piece of 1/4" tubing, a cleat on the inside of the unit (a wide-crown staple or cable staple would work also) to hold the tubing in place.
This way you can add water to the middle of the bator without missing the water troughs and without opening the unit. see below
Surface area of water will increase humidity more so than depth!
If you need a safe boost at lockdown just add a dampened sponge or rag.
A "ShamWoW" is great as a wick and can hang from the sides or across top of incubator.
Setting Eggs & Turning
It is important to ALWAYS wash your hands before handling your hatching eggs!
It is likewise important to SANITIZE your incubator AND equipment before AND after use!
Omphalitis, yolk sack infection is caused by a bacterium that enters through the porous egg shell and easily kills embryo's and newly hatched chicks. Unfortunately, incubation conditions are ideal for breeding bacteria as well as incubating eggs.
Only add room temperature eggs to your incubator to prevent SWEATING. Sweating/Condensation weakens the egg's natural defense mechanisms, providing an ideal environment for the growth of bacteria and penetrated through the shell pores and kill the embryo. Eggs can be laid on their sides or placed in turning tray with pointed end down/big air cell end up. For shipped eggs, please refer to SHIPPED EGGS section of this article.
Mark eggs, using a pencil, with an X on one side and an O on the other. Make sure to turn the eggs at least 3 times a day, or odd number of times. Turning by hand they should always be turned an odd amount of times and move them to a different part of the tray to protect them from temperature variation. You basically roll the eggs with your fingers/palm from X to O. It is important to NOT ROLL the eggs in the same direction every time. Improper rolling can cause the chalazae that holds the yolk in place to tear. Turning the egg prevents the embryo from touching and attaching to the membrane inside the egg. The most convenient way to turn eggs is to purchase an egg turner. Take extra precautions when turning eggs during the first week of incubation. The developing embryos have delicate blood vessels that rupture easily when severely jarred or shaken, thus killing the embryo.
When adding Eggs the temperature will immediately drop. DO NOT ADJUST THE THERMOSTAT, or risk accidentally cooking them. Wait 2/4 hours and if the temperature is still low, make a small adjustment, as small as you can. (Note: Small adjustments on the manual Styrofoam incubators make BIG changes!)
Shipped Eggs = Change Of Plans!
Shipped eggs have a MUCH lower hatch rate, even with experienced hatchers!
The following Word File can be used when ordering shipped eggs,
it is our suggestion that you copy/paste/edit to help you get the best eggs possible.
It’s always best to get local eggs to get the best hatch rate. Sources for eggs are to search the BYC buy sell trade section, Craigslist and eBay. Your local thread on BYC may be the best bet for local eggs! Look for your local site in the “Social section” “Where am I? Where are You!” on BYC.
BELOW ROLLING AIR CELL OF A SHIPPED EGG
Rolls like a Carpenters Level
Important Links to AIR CELL DAMAGE...
UNDERSTANDING what goes WRONG with SHIPPED EGGS
The yolk of an egg is held in place on each end by what is called Chalaza. These are delicate cords that keep the yolk centered in the egg. When you crack open an egg, you notice a white stringy thing on the yolk, this is the Chalaza. When eggs are shipped they encounter postal handlers that toss the packages, sorting machinery, bumpy vehicle rides, temperature changes and possibly X-ray Machines! So by the time the eggs get to you they are pretty much scrambled inside. So if you are going to buy eggs and have them shipped to you, be aware that the viability drops TREMENDOUSLY. There are rare instances when they ALL arrive safely but it is always a gamble. See Egg anatomy here http://www.geauga4h.org/poultry/egg_parts.htm
CONCLUSION ~ Shipped eggs
For rolling, detached or disrupted air cells (cells no longer at fat end of the egg but like a bubble level on the long side, rolling or saddle shaped cells), you’ll need to change your hatch plan. They need to sit 24 hours NO TURNING, pointy end down in a Styrofoam Egg Carton with the bottoms cut out for ventilation to possibly reattach air cells. Allow eggs to sit in a moderately cool, somewhat humid place for 12-24 hours before you begin to incubate them. Basements are great. Moderately cool means 65-75 degrees with the fat end UP. After settle period SET Shipped eggs in the incubator in the carton with bottoms cut out as pictured below, do not turn for 36-48 hours to help air cell re-attach. I personally have found that any shipped egg that survives to day 18 lockdown has an awkward but re-attached air cell so I lay my eggs down for hatch. Please refer to day 18 lockdown for more information on why laying eggs for hatching after day 18 is the best way to go. After 36-48 hours begin turning or hand turn by laying the eggs side to side 3 times a day, as in the image below. REMINDER~ Never Set COLD eggs in the incubator.
Below image are Eggs in A Carton with Bottoms cut out for Ventilation
Below image of Turning Shipped Eggs, just lean to opposite side.
BELOW is a short video of an Rolling Detatched Air Cell
SHIPPED EGGS & Malpositions!
BELOW ARE "SADDLE" SHAPED AIR CELLS
SADDLE SHAPED AIR CELLS are very COMMON with shipped eggs!
Saddle shaped is when one or both sides have a large "dip" in the air cell. A lot of times with saddle shaped cells the chick doesn’t position correct for hatching and their feet can easily get stuck behind their head and “smoosh” the chick so they can’t move, it can also force the yolk sack and everything more north in the shell.... Keep a close eye on these eggs and its VERY important to pencil mark Air cells!
CRACKED EXPENSIVE IMPORTANT EGGS
If you do receive a cracked egg and it’s an expensive egg you can try to hatch it, but beware of bacterial explosion and
good possibility of ruining other eggs. It is possible to hatch a cracked egg by sealing the crack with candle wax/crayon wax or finger nail polish. Try to place the egg in a cup or protected place well away from other eggs. If viable to hatch, keep a close eye on where the pip mark will be in case the chick cant get through a fixed area.
CANDLING & WEIGHING EGGS
Understanding the Air Cell
The average chicken egg has thousands of pores running through the shell allowing the embryo to exchange oxygen, carbon dioxide and water. Soon after an egg is laid, a small air bubble or “air cell” forms in the large end of the egg from water loss. Humidity levels in the incubator determine moisture evaporation during the 21 days of incubation and hatching. The air cell is crucial for the chick to break out of the egg shell at the end of the incubation period. The chick can drown if the air cell is too small or the chick may be retarded in growth if the air cell is too large. This is why maintaining the proper humidity is crucial. Slightly lower humidity levels are more likely to be less disastrous than slightly higher humidity levels.
MARKING and OBSERVING the size of the air cell is a way of checking for correct weight loss of the egg and is commonly used. However, this can be inaccurate due to the different, types, shapes, and ages of eggs. The protrusion of the embryo into the air cell also may effect observations. Again, it is the most common method for non-commercial hatchers. With experience you can adjust your humidity as needed by visual inspection of air cells. However, Weighing is the MOST accurate. If the incubation humidity is too low (very dry conditions), the air sac will be larger than normal and the humidity in the incubator should be increased to reduce the rate of water loss. If the air space is smaller than normal then the opposite applies.
Track the air sac with pencil tracings when you candle,
On the 7, 14 & 18th days
Chicken eggs need to lose 13% moisture over 21 days. Weigh all the eggs on the first day, before you put them in the incubator and weigh again days 10, 14 & 18. Several formulas can be used to determine the rate of weight loss or overall per cent weight loss and to correct the humidity if the values are off. For accuracy, a digital scale should be used which can weigh in grams. Don't forget to subtract the weight of the container holding the eggs from the total weight when calculating the average egg weight. If you use a rack to incubate your eggs it is best to weigh the entire rack instead of each egg to get an average. If you are incubating SHIPPED eggs upright in a carton you will also weigh the entire carton so that the eggs are not disturbed.
For formulas used to determine the weight loss please refer to
Weight Loss Determinations:
Note: Kitchen scales work great. The WeighMax Pocket Mini CD Digital Scale below works great if you weigh individual eggs. I pasted an egg carton cup firmly to hold the eggs. Be extremely careful not to tip your scale and crack your eggs!
Always wash hands before handling eggs.
The shell of an egg is thin and opaque when held near a bright light. The easiest type of egg to candle is the white shelled egg and some of the hardest eggs to candle are dark brown eggs, like the Maran eggs pictured below.
You could try two or more flashlights to see into them!
Candle days are 1, 7, 14 & 18th day
You will need a Candler, bright light, LED flashlight or build your own Candler. Find Instructions HERE. http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/how-to-make-a-homemade-egg-candler-using-common-household-materials
Turn on your Candler and shut off the lights in the room so it is dark, evenings are best. Hold the flashlight/Candler like the image below and set the egg air cell/fat end down on your hand. This will prevent any light leakage from the flashlight. Your hand protects the egg from the hard surface of the light and helps more of the light to go through the egg.
CAUTION: Be very careful when you handle the egg
so you don't accidentally crack it or DROP it!
Slowly & gently rotate the egg until you can see inside the egg. On Day 1 candling you will mark air cells and check for cracked or porous eggs. Lightly mark the air cell with a pencil. Candle quickly if the light gets hot, you will kill the embryo. On Day 1 candle you will NOT see much inside the egg but you may have a glimpse of yolk moving as you gently rotate lightly colored eggs.
Chicken Embryo Development, views from the Inside AND Out. *Graphic Photos**
Sites to refer to for Candling Images and Videos
Progression Though Incubation
Great pics of CANDLING and good and bad eggs.......
Metzer Candling :
Development of a Chick:
CANDLES AND EGGTOPSY
TINY Sappy spots possibly due to Rough Shipment of EGGS
Day 11 candle funky air cells from shipped eggs.
BLOOD RINGS clearly visible on light polish eggs
Saddle Shaped Air cell, where it dips on two sides
BLOOD RINGS clearly visible on light polish eggs
Note the pictures below on day 10
The two on the right have “scrambled” contents from shipping
When you Candle on day 7 there should be some light blood vessels surrounding it and you may see the embryo move. See above and below video. My favorite time to candle! Eggs that are clear should be re-candled at 10 days before tossing. If your not sure and it doesn’t smell leave it! If your egg is colored or a brown egg, it is harder to see through the shell, you may want to wait a few days and try again. Or find a better candler. You can see the large round yolk move inside the egg, this is NOT the embryo at day 7! Its just the yolk!
It IS ALIVE!!!! Video below day 7 Candle
Candle day 14 is to determine growth, weigh, pencil mark air cell size and dispose bad eggs.
It will begin to look pretty dark in there! Look for movement.
You should again see some good veining. THIS is a video of a CANDLE at DAY 14!
DAY 18 & LOCKDOWN!
Candle day 18 is to determine growth, weigh, pencil mark air cell size and dispose bad eggs. It will look pretty dark and FULL in there! You may or may not see movement on this candle. Its ok if not, don’t panic! The chick may easily be resting! See how that air cell is beginning to dip more to one side and if you lay the egg down it will roll into the hatching position. I set my eggs with lowest dip in the aircell up. This position for hatching is good so the chick is able to turn into position and I can easily see my pips too! Day 18 laying horizontal for actual hatching helps a chick hatch 1-2 hours earlier.
Stop turning, Remove Turner and Raise Humidity to 62-65%
NOTE: It is now known that the different embryos communicate with each other by a series of clicking sounds,
the rate of clicking being the important feature. Ensuring the eggs on the hatching trays are in contact with each other facilitates
the synchronization of hatching where the eggs are incubated in a modern machine. This assists in reducing the time between when the first and last chicks hatch.
After Day 18 candle you will “LOCK DOWN” your eggs. Lower the temperature about ½ degree and increase the humidity the last three days. STOP turning and the incubator stays closed, for the next three days while the chicks hatch! If you’re having a hard time with humidity it is OK to open quickly to boost, add warm water or increase the size of the pan or add a wet sponge. NEVER ADJUST HUMIDITY BY cutting back airflow. VENTILATION is EXTREMELY important at this stage!
Note: It’s not necessary but I like to place a piece of foam grip drawer mat on the wire bottom of incubator on day on day 18 lockdown. A cloth, crinoline, or paper towels could work as well. This protects the navel, the place where the abdomen closes after surrounding the remains of the yolk, from injury. It also makes cleaning the incubator easier. NO the wire on the incubator bottom should not injure or effect your chicks after they hatch. Dollar store baskets are great to keep hatching chicks separated by breed.
Prepare everything you need for them once they have hatched.
Now is the time to do final checks on brooder, heat lamp and feed.
See bottom of article for links on chick care.
Click on the link below for Brooder Ideas!
Rocking Egg Video!
Eggs can rock for several days before hatcing, but how exciting it is!
Understanding The Hatching Process
Between the 15th and 16th days, the chick orients itself so that its head is near the air cell at the large end of the egg. Not long before the chick is ready to attempt to make its way out of the shell its neck acquires a double bend so that its beak is under its right wing and pointed toward the air cell.
21 DAYS is just a baseline for hatching eggs.
Many chicks can take 23 - 25 days!
Some pip internally and fully hatch in hours while others will be 24 hours or more.
Egg movement! Eggs can “Rock n Roll” days before they are due to hatch!
The initiation of hatch occurs partially from the increased carbon dioxide level in the egg. This process causes the embryo to begin twitching it's muscles allowing the inner shell membrane to be punctured by the egg tooth. The chick then begins breathing the air in the air cell. Using its egg tooth, it pecks at the shell thousands of times and after a few hours the chick pips a small hole through the shell and begins to breathe air directly from the outside. After the chick has made a hole in the shell, it stops pipping for 8+ hours sometimes up to 24 hours and rests. During this time, it is acclimating its lungs.
In regards to opening and closing the bator to remove already hatch chicks; It is important to remember that chicks can go 3 days without food/water. It is better to wait for the remaining chicks to hatch to insure reducing the impact to unhatched pipping eggs.
But my new chick is running around in the bator knocking eggs around!
LET THEM GO! DO NOT OPEN THE INCUBATOR! They are fine!
It PIPPED the WRONG END!
It is common to lose about 1-2% of the chicks due to deformities and malpositions. Deformities occur during embryo development, while malpositions occur the last week of incubation. Malpositioned embryos are unable to pip the eggshell and escape due to improper positioning within the egg. The chicks can have difficulty positioning for pipping, absorbing the yolk sac, or changing from embryo to chick breathing air. The majority of malpositioned embryos that have died in the shell probably resulted from exhaustion and/or lack of oxygen. One GOOD thing to remember is that SOME malpositions are Lethal and some are not! Occasionally, malpositioned chicks will hatch unassisted but the hatch does need to be monitored closely to ensure that the chick is not becoming stressed, or stuck. Often as a result of the position in the shell they have been unable to absorb all of the yolk. Please refer to Navel SECTION BELOW.
Common reasons of Malpositions are:
Eggs are set with small end up.
Advancing breeder hen age and shell quality problems.
Egg turning frequency and angle are not adequate.
Inadequate % humidity loss of eggs in the setter.
Inadequate air cell development, improper temperature and humidity regulation, and insufficient ventilation in the incubator or hatcher.
Imbalanced feeds, elevated levels of mycotoxins, and vitamin and mineral deficiencies.
Lower than recommended temperatures in the last stage of incubation.
Normal hatching position and the six recognised malpositions Images:
ASSISTING MALPOSITIONED CHICKS.....
When to assist?
Assisting a chick should be your LAST RESORT
PLEASE READ the following ARTICLE
BEFORE you try to assist a chick!
Step By Step Guide
to Assisted Hatching:
She HATCHED! But what's with her butt?
If there is slight bleeding at the navel use corn starch or a dab of cold water to stop the bleeding. You can also swab the umbilicus area with a 1% solution of Betadine and place the chick back in the bator to dry. If you do see this and the chick is already out of the shell dangling with this, use a clean sterile scissors to cut through them, DO NOT PULL as you can harm the chick’s navel!
But only the cords!
DO NOT CUT IF THERE IS UNABSORBED YOLK SACK!!
Please see HOW TO TREAT & PREVENT yolk sack infections!!
click on in the link below
Below is a photo of a "Duck in a Cup" waiting for its yolk sack to finish up!
3 Essential Chick Care Tips (pasting up and Cord info)
YES this CHICK MADE IT through with proper Care!
And this one MADE IT! Say Hello to "Yolk"
Yolk, a WONDERFUL Story of a Chick that stopped pipping midway and ended up having a yolk sack rupture and a bunch of other issues! It is well worth a read and "Rock" has all the footage to boot!
Links for additional information
What Went Wrong During Incubation
Trouble Shooting Failures with Egg Incubation
Hatchability Problem Analysis
This is also a great pdf with pics: paste link in browser search:
Eggtopsy: What happened to my egg?
"Shrink wrap" vs. "Sticky chick"?
New Chick Care Links and Info
DIP THE BEAK OF THE CHICK IN THE WATER BEFORE YOU TURN IT LOOSE in the brooder. A taste of water right away helps them to find more water soon. If your chicks are at all stressed, add about 3 tablespoons of brown or table sugar to each quart of water for extra energy. Most baby bird loss is caused because the bird doesn't start to eat or drink. Never let your bird run out of water. http://odysseyranch.com/Chick%20Care%20Tips.html
Homemade Electrolyte Recipe for weak/ill chicks
2 C. Water
2 TBL. Brown Sugar, honey or molasses
1/2 tsp Salt
1/2 tsp. Baking Soda
Mix until all dry ingredients dissolve & Keep refrigerated
You could also use electrolyte drinks Gatorade or Pedialyte, or
3 drops of POLYVISOL (liquid childrens A-B-D vitamins)
Slowly drip along inner edge of lower beak.
How To Raise Baby Chicks
Raising your chicks
Dont forget to have Sav-A-Chick™ Electrolyte and Vitamin Supplement on hand! AND ITS CHEAP at TSC its Balanced electrolytes supplement for newly hatched and adult chickens, ducks, turkeys, and other domestic poultry. Fortified with vitamins A, D3, E, C, K, B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B9 and B12. Convenient, single-use packets each mix into one gallon of drinking water. Use during hot weather or other stress to support optimal hydration and bird health. JUST IN CASE you have a weak bird! OR You can add sugar to the water in the first couple of days.
Wry neck is a condition in which the baby chicks head tilts backwards, causing it to be off balance and fall over.
Some causes of EARLY CHICK MORTALITY ~
CHICKEN ORTHOPEDICS ~
Small Animal Euthanasia at Home http://www.alysion.org/euthanasia/index.php
How to cull chicks http://www.waldeneffect.org/how_to_cull_chicks/
How to Dispatch a Chicken.http://poultrykeeper.com/general-chickens/how-to-kill-a-chicken
Learn CPR: Save A Bird’s Life
CPR can save a bird’s life in the correct circumstances, so learn how to perform CPR on your bird with these tips.
SmallScale Poultry Flocks Resources
a PDF Filled with Informative links to EVERYTHING POULTRY!
BYC BEST LINKS!
SANITIZE EQUIPMENT & PAT YOURSELF ON THE BACK!
A few Cool Videos!
THIS is a video of a CANDLE at DAY 10!
Day 13 Duck Candle below
Pip to chick!
Welcome Splash Silkie, Halo!
Everyone is MORE than WELCOME to come join the Incubation thread with us!
you can find us here...
Just pop in and say hello and what your plans are in the bator!
Experienced Hatchers also needed to help out with the growing demand for help with incubating!
Its not just for shipped eggs! Its awesome, most check daily and are there to help and support!
Disclaimer: Please note this information is offered as friendly advice only and, whilst I have made every effort to ensure it is accurate, I can not be held responsible if it proves not to be useful in your case!
A little fun compliments of my friend Oz!
My new Avy Created by my friend cochins1088 from BYC,
How cool is that!
- LilyAshley11's Page
- › Chat N Chicknfun Thread 5 seconds ago
- › Mites? 33 seconds ago
- › Ducclelover10's chat thread! (Continued) 39 seconds ago
- › BYC Drawing Club(NEW!!!) 1 minute ago
- › Cream Legbar Pictures 1 minute ago
- › Lily has passed 1 minute ago
- › Hova bator incubator 1 minute ago
- › Mealworm farming 1 minute ago
- › Day 25. Help! 2 minutes ago
- › The Heritage Rhode Island Red Site 2 minutes ago
- › Partridge Plymouth Rock by heronz
- › Brabanter by mtmimi777
- › Orpington (Buff)-319 by marvun22
- › Indian Runner by marvun22
- › Rouen by marvun22
- › Khaki Campbell by marvun22
- › Pekin by marvun22
- › Bantam-Cochin by ChickenRaiser95
- › Cream Legbar originally bred by R. C. Punnett by KPenley
- › Silkie by Chickie Mama
- › Troost Roost by stuckinvtown
- › Fowl Territory by softblooper
- › Cozy Coop in Cape by ShamSham
- › Poor Man's Chicken Coop for zero dollars by IceAngel
- › Fresh Eggs from Spoiled Chickens by lilnursetara
- › New to web site. Need advise on how to help... by Marie Joye
- › My foray into chicken ownership by Katcynth
- › My six chicks!!!!! So cute by My Six Chicks
- › Hatching<3 by Nike
- › Blue and Whie Delight by 12chickenlover3