Pigeons make great pets, something that is unknown to many people, even those who keep chickens and other types of birds! In this article I will go over the basics of caring for pigeons outdoors in an aviary or indoors in the home. Pigeons aren’t for everyone, but you may find at the end of this article that they are a better pet candidate than you previously thought.
Housing
Outdoors:
For a closed aviary, the minimum size should be 7 ft long by 4 ft wide by 6 ft high (for 2-4 pigeons). I’ve kept pigeons in an aviary smaller than this (they were later moved to one 3x its size), and I would definitely recommend following that minimum, which itself is from an expert on pet pigeons.
My pigeons enjoying their expanded space. Bigger is always better!
(Note: just like chickens, a singular pigeon should never be kept alone outside for an extended period of time. They are flock animals. However, if one pigeon is kept inside and given lots of time to roam and lots of attention from people, they will bond with their person(s) as their flock, and won’t be lonely. They may even choose a human as their mate.)
Your aviary should be surrounded with half-inch hardware cloth, as lots of things want to eat pigeons (just like with chickens). Chicken wire isn’t safe, as many chicken-keeping people can attest. Part of the aviary needs to be covered, to keep out rain/snow and provide shade on hot days. Part of the aviary should be open to the air, and have a wire/mesh roof. Pigeons tend to be more cold-hardy than chickens; after all, unlike the pigeon, the ancestor of the chicken is a tropical bird.
Pigeons love to sun-bathe!
Perches
For perches, pigeons prefer shelves and flat perches rather than round ones (since they live on cliffs in the wild). Unlike chickens, pigeons do not like to share their perch (except with their mate), so you need to make sure you have a perch for every pigeon. I currently have twice as many places to perch in my aviary as the number of pigeons I have.
Perch dividers keep the peace. Also, note that this is the pen I used before I built my pigeons their expanded aviary.
What about lofts?
I will not talk too much about free flight or lofts in this article, as that is something I don’t have much personal experience with. Free flight or loft flight is when pigeons are let out of their loft to fly around outside. A “loft” is usually smaller than an aviary, since the pigeons within it don’t spend all their time there (kind of like a chicken coop without a run).
My pigeons are kept in a closed aviary, meaning they aren’t let out. You may be wondering why; it’s for the same reason I don’t let my chickens out to free range without supervision; the danger of predators (and for pigeons, they can also end up getting lost). Unfortunately, it’s very hard to supervise pigeons or keep them in a closed yard since they can fly! For that reason, it can be more dangerous to free fly pigeons than to free range chickens (assuming the chickens are supervised and have a fenced in yard). Just like with free ranging chickens, there is a risk you must accept when free flying pigeons.
Indoors:
For an indoor cage, pigeons are not like parrots and use horizontal space rather than vertical space. Large birdcages/flight cages or dog crates work great for pigeons. A good minimum cage size (for indoors) is 42 inches wide, 27 inches deep, and 30 inches high. The bottom of the cage should not be wire, since that’s hard on their feet and may cause bumblefoot. People usually use plastic bottoms, puppy pads, yoga mats, newspaper, paper towels, etc. for a cage bottom. An indoor cage should be cleaned every day.
Some people don’t use cages at all for their inside pigeons. If you do plan on using one, make sure that the pigeon gets lots of time outside the cage to roam around your home! They should be let out of their cage every day if they live indoors. They can’t stay in a small cage all the time, even if it’s kept very clean. However, if you have an appropriately sized indoor aviary or a pigeon room, they don’t need to be let into the rest of the house.
If you want to free fly a lone indoor pigeon (let them fly around outside) then you should give them recall training and only do it under supervision, otherwise it’s very dangerous since pigeons normally have a flock for protection. Unfortunately, there can still be risks, even with training. That’s why, if I want to bring a pigeon outside of their aviary, I use a harness, leash, or carrier.
Food and Water
Pigeons should have a diet consisting of mostly seeds, the more variety the better. This is what I’m currently feeding:
Here’s another similar seed mix, though it had a bit too much corn for my pigeons’ liking:
Ingredients:
These are both a feed meant for racing pigeons, which I had to order online. Pet stores and feed stores sometimes carry pigeon feed. Seed for wild birds, doves, and quail can also work, though you may have to mix different types to get enough variety. I often mix different bags together to get the most variety, even when feeding a pigeon-specific feed. For instance, for the first bag above I also added safflower and millet seeds.
Some people occasionally offer their pigeons vegetables like peas, tomatoes, lettuce, or broccoli as treats, which also works as enrichment. But, it isn’t totally necessary for a healthy diet, since pigeons primarily eat seeds in the wild. Pellets (for pigeons or parrots) are another thing that can be part of a healthy diet, but shouldn’t be the majority of what a pigeon eats.
Supplements
Pet pigeons can benefit from an addition of mineral grit to their diet. Though, be careful that they don’t overindulge, as too much grit can sometimes cause crop blockages. Occasional probiotics can be good for pigeons, too, but again, not in excess. Vitamin supplements are beneficial to indoor pigeons who don’t have as much exposure to sunlight.
Feeders and waterers
For indoor pigeons especially, I like to use small, heavy containers for food and water. For outdoor pigeons, I provide different sized tubs of water and smaller dish-like containers for food. I give my pigeons just a little bit more food than they can eat in one day to prevent a mess; pigeons have a tendency to fling their seed everywhere, refusing to eat anything but their favorite types. An indoor pigeon’s water bowl should be a bit too small for them to bathe in. Otherwise, they will bathe in their water bowl. Here’s what I use for food and water dishes for inside pigeons (excuse the mess, I cleaned them after the picture):
(Pigeon for size comparison)
Notice how I only half-filled the bowl to the left of the pigeon instead of filling it to the brim.
One of the two feeders in my outdoor aviary:
Pigeons are very clean animals (you can often find them preening) who love to bathe in water, so a large, shallow container filled with water should be provided to them at least once a week. In my aviary, there’s always one water container available which is larger and shorter than the others, making it ideal for pigeon baths. Pigeons’ waterers should be cleaned regularly, as they will get feather dust and seeds in their water. Also, larger waterers in an aviary are often used for bathing, even if there are more “ideal” baths available, so they definitely need to be cleaned plenty to keep the drinking water fresh.
The bath in my aviary
Relaxing in the tub!
Illness and Parasites
Common issues pigeon may have are coccidiosis, canker, worms, and mites/lice. Keep in mind that the claims of pigeons being disease-filled animals that are a huge danger to people are blown way out of proportion. I’ve handled many feral/“wild” pigeons, and most were not sick. I’ve had many more problems with illness in my chickens than my pigeons.
My pigeon medkit. There’s still more I would like to add, too. Thankfully I haven’t really had to use the meds so far except for preventive measures.
A pigeon which has been living inside should not be exposed to these illness/parasites, so probably does not need preventive treatment, but it can be a good idea to do it anyway on occasion. For outdoor pigeons, preventive treatment is more important, and it’s good to catch your outdoor pigeons and check them over periodically.
When checking over new (or already owned) pigeons, I tend to check their feet, open their beak and check their throat (good way to spot canker), smell their breath (a bad smell can indicate issues such as sour crop), and observe if their poop is healthy. Of course, if concerned, you can take your pigeon(s) to an avian vet, but unfortunately they’re not always available and they can be out of many peoples’ price range. There are many vets who won’t see pigeons because they consider them “wildlife”, so you may need to specify that your’s is a pet if you take them to a vet.
Getting a new pigeon
Getting pigeons from a reputable source will go a long ways towards avoiding disease and parasites. I don’t have much experience with finding reputable breeders, but if you’re interested in adopting a rescued pigeon, you can always check out local wildlife rehabilitation centers, animal shelters, and there are even some large foster-based pigeon rescue organizations. (I have 11 rescued pigeons at the moment— all of which I got by accident! I also adopt out pigeons, as do many other pigeon rescuers.) Wherever you get a new pigeon, you should still consider at least treating them for mites/lice and worms. Most of the pigeons I’ve rescued have had feather lice.
(Note: feather lice and blood-sucking mites may require different treatments. It’s best to either use a single treatment that can kill both or use two different specialized treatments at different times to make sure you’ve got them all.)
More info about indoor pigeons
Are you reading this article and wondering “how do people keep a pigeon inside their home?” Well, though I’ve never kept a pigeon as a full-time house pet, I’ve had them inside my house temporarily many times, either as visitors from my aviary or because they were rescues in need of some rehab. One of my pigeons comes inside my house at least once a week!
First off, how to control the poop? The answer is pigeon diapers! Also known as flypers, flight suits, and pigeon pants, these “pants” make it easy to have a pigeon inside without getting poop everywhere. Pigeon poop is smaller and less smelly than chicken poop. However, the pigeon diaper still needs to be “changed” every 3-4 hours, and while it’s a great tool, it shouldn’t be kept on all the time. There are many places online where you can buy pigeon diapers. Keep in mind that there are many people who have indoor pigeons and don’t use pigeon diapers, so the diapers aren’t necessarily required.
Are pigeons good house pets?
Pigeons aren’t destructive, and the loudest noises they make are the flapping of their wings and their quiet coos. They spend a lot of time walking along the ground or relaxing on a favorite perch. Tame pigeons can be very feisty and like to “play fight” with their owners, which consists of pecking and wing-slaps. However, it is very rare for a pigeon to draw blood with their beak, and most of the time their “ferocious attacks” barely hurt at all. They bathe in water, not dirt, unlike chickens. However, pigeons do produce a lot of feather dust/feather dander, so if you permanently keep a pigeon indoors you should keep the room their cage is in clean to prevent a buildup of feather dust. You may also want to invest in an air purifier.
Behavior
Pigeons, even untame ones, are surprisingly chill in the house. This is because pigeons are domesticated (unlike parrots!); even the ones you see pecking for crumbs in the city! These “feral” pigeons are descended from domesticated ancestors who were “let loose” into the wild. The true wild rock dove is much rarer than the feral pigeon.
Pigeons who are kept inside often become tame over time, but it can take a while. Ways to build their trust include feeding them by hand, hanging out nearby without bothering them (I like to sit in a chair in the aviary), and not chasing them around trying to catch them— I try to catch my less tame pigeons in the dark, either when it’s night outside and/or with all the lights in the room turned off.
Already tamed/imprinted pigeons
Pigeons who have been tamed or were imprinted from youth (many of which are in need of adoption!) can be very affectionate. My tamest pigeon flies to me, perches on me, dances and coos for me, play-fights with me, isn’t scared of me when I approach, is easy to pick up and handle, preens my hands, and lets me pet him as long as I’m doing it in the “right” places (back of the neck and head!). However, all pigeons are individuals, and there are definitely those that are more standoffish than others. Tame pigeons who don’t like being pet by people can still learn to take treats from your hand and that it’s safe to perch on/near you.
Sexing
Male pigeons often do an elaborate dance to impress their mate, any other pigeon they come into contact with, or even inanimate objects. The dance usually involves them spinning in a circle while cooing, and doing a hop while dragging their tail across the ground. Female pigeons are generally a bit quieter than males and generally don’t do the full mating dance. However, pigeons can be pretty hard to sex even after watching their behavior, so the only way to know for sure is to see them lay an egg or get a DNA test.
Enrichment
If you have a multiple pigeons in a properly sized aviary without overcrowding, they won’t need much enrichment, since interaction with the rest of the flock is often enough to entertain them. However, if you have one or two inside pigeons, it is important to give them some enrichment, especially if they’re “acting up” (being more aggressive with people or their mate than usual).
My tame pigeon really likes to wrestle with stuffed animals, especially if I’m holding them and moving them around. He also likes to wrestle with my sleeves, blankets, or really anything else soft that I can move around with my hand. My pigeons in my aviary like mirrors, I’ve seen them coo to them and touch their reflection with their beaks. You can also rearrange their cage/aviary to give them a new environment to explore as long as it doesn’t stress them out. If your pigeon(s) think of you as their mate, you could try offering nesting material and fake eggs even if they haven’t laid anything. My male pigeons will lay on a spot and coo and flick their wings to indicate that they want their mate to lay an egg there.
Nesting
Pigeons with a human or bird mate will want to have a nest. The females will lay eggs with or without a “proper” nest, so l provide one by giving them access to nesting materials (like hay/straw) and some sort of box/bowl for them to build the nest in. Laying female pigeons should be provided with supplemental calcium, such as oyster shell or calcium-containing grit. I replace my pigeons’ eggs with fake eggs so I don’t end up overcrowded (pigeons breed.. a lot). If you want to replace eggs, keep in mind that pigeons usually lay two per clutch, but will sometimes lay a third a few days later. They love building and sitting on the nest even if the eggs never hatch. Plastic or ceramic eggs can be ordered online, or you can make your own out of clay, for example. None of this may apply to you if you have a single bird. However, sometimes a pigeon will choose to have a human mate, and may still lay eggs (if female) or want to sit on eggs (if male). Both male and female pigeons get involved in nesting!
A female pigeon with a dog bowl as her nest
A male pigeon with a chicken-type nesting box
Taking your pigeon outside
Both indoor and outdoor pigeons benefit from sunlight. In the case of indoor pigeons, letting them sun-bathe in front of a screen door or screen window is a safe way for them to have access to UV light, which is good for their health. There are also UV lamps that can provide the same benefits. Or, if your bird is tame enough, you can bring them outside on a leash or in a carrier (if you bring them outside in a carrier, you must supervise them at all times, since most indoor cages/carriers aren’t predator proof).
There are harnesses and leashes for pigeons (though I just use a leash for small dogs) that you can order online. I’ve used a harness to bring my tame male out in the yard, to pet stores, and even to the beach. However, his favorite thing to do outside of the house are car rides! He loves car rides, especially if I bring his stuffed animal “wife” too. I think it’s because he feels safe in the car, while he doesn’t feel as safe in an unfamiliar outside environment like the beach. I also have a small carrier that I’ve used to bring him places, and he’s perfectly content in it as long as his stuffed animal is there too.
My pigeon in a pet store!
Exploring the yard
Other enrichment
Other enrichment activities I’ve heard of but not tried yet are foraging mats/foraging boxes, cat toys (especially those little balls with the bells inside or the crinkly balls), and toys that you can put their favorite seed inside for them to try to get out. Here’s an article that has great enrichment suggestions: https://www.pigeonrescue.org/2022/02/15/emma-ezra-underemployed-pigeon-syndrome/. It’s about a bored male pigeon, but it works for all pigeons.
Pigeons are intelligent animals and can be taught tricks! I haven’t tried to teach mine any yet, mainly because my tamest pigeon isn’t very food motivated. However, I have heard of people teaching their pigeons to spin in a circle, peck a target for treats, or fly to them when signaled.
Thanks for reading! I hope this article has been educational, and perhaps even changed your outlook on pigeons or helped you better care for your own pet pigeon.
If you want to follow along on my own pigeon adventures, go here: https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/meet-my-rescued-pigeons.1522507/.
And here’s another article that covers the basics of pigeon care: https://www.olivesplace.org/pages/pigeons-as-pets.
Housing
Outdoors:
For a closed aviary, the minimum size should be 7 ft long by 4 ft wide by 6 ft high (for 2-4 pigeons). I’ve kept pigeons in an aviary smaller than this (they were later moved to one 3x its size), and I would definitely recommend following that minimum, which itself is from an expert on pet pigeons.
My pigeons enjoying their expanded space. Bigger is always better!
(Note: just like chickens, a singular pigeon should never be kept alone outside for an extended period of time. They are flock animals. However, if one pigeon is kept inside and given lots of time to roam and lots of attention from people, they will bond with their person(s) as their flock, and won’t be lonely. They may even choose a human as their mate.)
Your aviary should be surrounded with half-inch hardware cloth, as lots of things want to eat pigeons (just like with chickens). Chicken wire isn’t safe, as many chicken-keeping people can attest. Part of the aviary needs to be covered, to keep out rain/snow and provide shade on hot days. Part of the aviary should be open to the air, and have a wire/mesh roof. Pigeons tend to be more cold-hardy than chickens; after all, unlike the pigeon, the ancestor of the chicken is a tropical bird.
Perches
For perches, pigeons prefer shelves and flat perches rather than round ones (since they live on cliffs in the wild). Unlike chickens, pigeons do not like to share their perch (except with their mate), so you need to make sure you have a perch for every pigeon. I currently have twice as many places to perch in my aviary as the number of pigeons I have.
Perch dividers keep the peace. Also, note that this is the pen I used before I built my pigeons their expanded aviary.
What about lofts?
I will not talk too much about free flight or lofts in this article, as that is something I don’t have much personal experience with. Free flight or loft flight is when pigeons are let out of their loft to fly around outside. A “loft” is usually smaller than an aviary, since the pigeons within it don’t spend all their time there (kind of like a chicken coop without a run).
My pigeons are kept in a closed aviary, meaning they aren’t let out. You may be wondering why; it’s for the same reason I don’t let my chickens out to free range without supervision; the danger of predators (and for pigeons, they can also end up getting lost). Unfortunately, it’s very hard to supervise pigeons or keep them in a closed yard since they can fly! For that reason, it can be more dangerous to free fly pigeons than to free range chickens (assuming the chickens are supervised and have a fenced in yard). Just like with free ranging chickens, there is a risk you must accept when free flying pigeons.
Indoors:
For an indoor cage, pigeons are not like parrots and use horizontal space rather than vertical space. Large birdcages/flight cages or dog crates work great for pigeons. A good minimum cage size (for indoors) is 42 inches wide, 27 inches deep, and 30 inches high. The bottom of the cage should not be wire, since that’s hard on their feet and may cause bumblefoot. People usually use plastic bottoms, puppy pads, yoga mats, newspaper, paper towels, etc. for a cage bottom. An indoor cage should be cleaned every day.
Some people don’t use cages at all for their inside pigeons. If you do plan on using one, make sure that the pigeon gets lots of time outside the cage to roam around your home! They should be let out of their cage every day if they live indoors. They can’t stay in a small cage all the time, even if it’s kept very clean. However, if you have an appropriately sized indoor aviary or a pigeon room, they don’t need to be let into the rest of the house.
If you want to free fly a lone indoor pigeon (let them fly around outside) then you should give them recall training and only do it under supervision, otherwise it’s very dangerous since pigeons normally have a flock for protection. Unfortunately, there can still be risks, even with training. That’s why, if I want to bring a pigeon outside of their aviary, I use a harness, leash, or carrier.
Food and Water
Pigeons should have a diet consisting of mostly seeds, the more variety the better. This is what I’m currently feeding:
Here’s another similar seed mix, though it had a bit too much corn for my pigeons’ liking:
Ingredients:
These are both a feed meant for racing pigeons, which I had to order online. Pet stores and feed stores sometimes carry pigeon feed. Seed for wild birds, doves, and quail can also work, though you may have to mix different types to get enough variety. I often mix different bags together to get the most variety, even when feeding a pigeon-specific feed. For instance, for the first bag above I also added safflower and millet seeds.
Some people occasionally offer their pigeons vegetables like peas, tomatoes, lettuce, or broccoli as treats, which also works as enrichment. But, it isn’t totally necessary for a healthy diet, since pigeons primarily eat seeds in the wild. Pellets (for pigeons or parrots) are another thing that can be part of a healthy diet, but shouldn’t be the majority of what a pigeon eats.
Supplements
Pet pigeons can benefit from an addition of mineral grit to their diet. Though, be careful that they don’t overindulge, as too much grit can sometimes cause crop blockages. Occasional probiotics can be good for pigeons, too, but again, not in excess. Vitamin supplements are beneficial to indoor pigeons who don’t have as much exposure to sunlight.
Feeders and waterers
For indoor pigeons especially, I like to use small, heavy containers for food and water. For outdoor pigeons, I provide different sized tubs of water and smaller dish-like containers for food. I give my pigeons just a little bit more food than they can eat in one day to prevent a mess; pigeons have a tendency to fling their seed everywhere, refusing to eat anything but their favorite types. An indoor pigeon’s water bowl should be a bit too small for them to bathe in. Otherwise, they will bathe in their water bowl. Here’s what I use for food and water dishes for inside pigeons (excuse the mess, I cleaned them after the picture):
(Pigeon for size comparison)
Notice how I only half-filled the bowl to the left of the pigeon instead of filling it to the brim.
One of the two feeders in my outdoor aviary:
Pigeons are very clean animals (you can often find them preening) who love to bathe in water, so a large, shallow container filled with water should be provided to them at least once a week. In my aviary, there’s always one water container available which is larger and shorter than the others, making it ideal for pigeon baths. Pigeons’ waterers should be cleaned regularly, as they will get feather dust and seeds in their water. Also, larger waterers in an aviary are often used for bathing, even if there are more “ideal” baths available, so they definitely need to be cleaned plenty to keep the drinking water fresh.
The bath in my aviary
Illness and Parasites
Common issues pigeon may have are coccidiosis, canker, worms, and mites/lice. Keep in mind that the claims of pigeons being disease-filled animals that are a huge danger to people are blown way out of proportion. I’ve handled many feral/“wild” pigeons, and most were not sick. I’ve had many more problems with illness in my chickens than my pigeons.
My pigeon medkit. There’s still more I would like to add, too. Thankfully I haven’t really had to use the meds so far except for preventive measures.
A pigeon which has been living inside should not be exposed to these illness/parasites, so probably does not need preventive treatment, but it can be a good idea to do it anyway on occasion. For outdoor pigeons, preventive treatment is more important, and it’s good to catch your outdoor pigeons and check them over periodically.
When checking over new (or already owned) pigeons, I tend to check their feet, open their beak and check their throat (good way to spot canker), smell their breath (a bad smell can indicate issues such as sour crop), and observe if their poop is healthy. Of course, if concerned, you can take your pigeon(s) to an avian vet, but unfortunately they’re not always available and they can be out of many peoples’ price range. There are many vets who won’t see pigeons because they consider them “wildlife”, so you may need to specify that your’s is a pet if you take them to a vet.
Getting a new pigeon
Getting pigeons from a reputable source will go a long ways towards avoiding disease and parasites. I don’t have much experience with finding reputable breeders, but if you’re interested in adopting a rescued pigeon, you can always check out local wildlife rehabilitation centers, animal shelters, and there are even some large foster-based pigeon rescue organizations. (I have 11 rescued pigeons at the moment— all of which I got by accident! I also adopt out pigeons, as do many other pigeon rescuers.) Wherever you get a new pigeon, you should still consider at least treating them for mites/lice and worms. Most of the pigeons I’ve rescued have had feather lice.
(Note: feather lice and blood-sucking mites may require different treatments. It’s best to either use a single treatment that can kill both or use two different specialized treatments at different times to make sure you’ve got them all.)
More info about indoor pigeons
Are you reading this article and wondering “how do people keep a pigeon inside their home?” Well, though I’ve never kept a pigeon as a full-time house pet, I’ve had them inside my house temporarily many times, either as visitors from my aviary or because they were rescues in need of some rehab. One of my pigeons comes inside my house at least once a week!
First off, how to control the poop? The answer is pigeon diapers! Also known as flypers, flight suits, and pigeon pants, these “pants” make it easy to have a pigeon inside without getting poop everywhere. Pigeon poop is smaller and less smelly than chicken poop. However, the pigeon diaper still needs to be “changed” every 3-4 hours, and while it’s a great tool, it shouldn’t be kept on all the time. There are many places online where you can buy pigeon diapers. Keep in mind that there are many people who have indoor pigeons and don’t use pigeon diapers, so the diapers aren’t necessarily required.
Are pigeons good house pets?
Pigeons aren’t destructive, and the loudest noises they make are the flapping of their wings and their quiet coos. They spend a lot of time walking along the ground or relaxing on a favorite perch. Tame pigeons can be very feisty and like to “play fight” with their owners, which consists of pecking and wing-slaps. However, it is very rare for a pigeon to draw blood with their beak, and most of the time their “ferocious attacks” barely hurt at all. They bathe in water, not dirt, unlike chickens. However, pigeons do produce a lot of feather dust/feather dander, so if you permanently keep a pigeon indoors you should keep the room their cage is in clean to prevent a buildup of feather dust. You may also want to invest in an air purifier.
Behavior
Pigeons, even untame ones, are surprisingly chill in the house. This is because pigeons are domesticated (unlike parrots!); even the ones you see pecking for crumbs in the city! These “feral” pigeons are descended from domesticated ancestors who were “let loose” into the wild. The true wild rock dove is much rarer than the feral pigeon.
Pigeons who are kept inside often become tame over time, but it can take a while. Ways to build their trust include feeding them by hand, hanging out nearby without bothering them (I like to sit in a chair in the aviary), and not chasing them around trying to catch them— I try to catch my less tame pigeons in the dark, either when it’s night outside and/or with all the lights in the room turned off.
Already tamed/imprinted pigeons
Pigeons who have been tamed or were imprinted from youth (many of which are in need of adoption!) can be very affectionate. My tamest pigeon flies to me, perches on me, dances and coos for me, play-fights with me, isn’t scared of me when I approach, is easy to pick up and handle, preens my hands, and lets me pet him as long as I’m doing it in the “right” places (back of the neck and head!). However, all pigeons are individuals, and there are definitely those that are more standoffish than others. Tame pigeons who don’t like being pet by people can still learn to take treats from your hand and that it’s safe to perch on/near you.
Sexing
Male pigeons often do an elaborate dance to impress their mate, any other pigeon they come into contact with, or even inanimate objects. The dance usually involves them spinning in a circle while cooing, and doing a hop while dragging their tail across the ground. Female pigeons are generally a bit quieter than males and generally don’t do the full mating dance. However, pigeons can be pretty hard to sex even after watching their behavior, so the only way to know for sure is to see them lay an egg or get a DNA test.
Enrichment
If you have a multiple pigeons in a properly sized aviary without overcrowding, they won’t need much enrichment, since interaction with the rest of the flock is often enough to entertain them. However, if you have one or two inside pigeons, it is important to give them some enrichment, especially if they’re “acting up” (being more aggressive with people or their mate than usual).
My tame pigeon really likes to wrestle with stuffed animals, especially if I’m holding them and moving them around. He also likes to wrestle with my sleeves, blankets, or really anything else soft that I can move around with my hand. My pigeons in my aviary like mirrors, I’ve seen them coo to them and touch their reflection with their beaks. You can also rearrange their cage/aviary to give them a new environment to explore as long as it doesn’t stress them out. If your pigeon(s) think of you as their mate, you could try offering nesting material and fake eggs even if they haven’t laid anything. My male pigeons will lay on a spot and coo and flick their wings to indicate that they want their mate to lay an egg there.
Nesting
Pigeons with a human or bird mate will want to have a nest. The females will lay eggs with or without a “proper” nest, so l provide one by giving them access to nesting materials (like hay/straw) and some sort of box/bowl for them to build the nest in. Laying female pigeons should be provided with supplemental calcium, such as oyster shell or calcium-containing grit. I replace my pigeons’ eggs with fake eggs so I don’t end up overcrowded (pigeons breed.. a lot). If you want to replace eggs, keep in mind that pigeons usually lay two per clutch, but will sometimes lay a third a few days later. They love building and sitting on the nest even if the eggs never hatch. Plastic or ceramic eggs can be ordered online, or you can make your own out of clay, for example. None of this may apply to you if you have a single bird. However, sometimes a pigeon will choose to have a human mate, and may still lay eggs (if female) or want to sit on eggs (if male). Both male and female pigeons get involved in nesting!
A female pigeon with a dog bowl as her nest
A male pigeon with a chicken-type nesting box
Taking your pigeon outside
Both indoor and outdoor pigeons benefit from sunlight. In the case of indoor pigeons, letting them sun-bathe in front of a screen door or screen window is a safe way for them to have access to UV light, which is good for their health. There are also UV lamps that can provide the same benefits. Or, if your bird is tame enough, you can bring them outside on a leash or in a carrier (if you bring them outside in a carrier, you must supervise them at all times, since most indoor cages/carriers aren’t predator proof).
There are harnesses and leashes for pigeons (though I just use a leash for small dogs) that you can order online. I’ve used a harness to bring my tame male out in the yard, to pet stores, and even to the beach. However, his favorite thing to do outside of the house are car rides! He loves car rides, especially if I bring his stuffed animal “wife” too. I think it’s because he feels safe in the car, while he doesn’t feel as safe in an unfamiliar outside environment like the beach. I also have a small carrier that I’ve used to bring him places, and he’s perfectly content in it as long as his stuffed animal is there too.
My pigeon in a pet store!
Exploring the yard
Other enrichment
Other enrichment activities I’ve heard of but not tried yet are foraging mats/foraging boxes, cat toys (especially those little balls with the bells inside or the crinkly balls), and toys that you can put their favorite seed inside for them to try to get out. Here’s an article that has great enrichment suggestions: https://www.pigeonrescue.org/2022/02/15/emma-ezra-underemployed-pigeon-syndrome/. It’s about a bored male pigeon, but it works for all pigeons.
Pigeons are intelligent animals and can be taught tricks! I haven’t tried to teach mine any yet, mainly because my tamest pigeon isn’t very food motivated. However, I have heard of people teaching their pigeons to spin in a circle, peck a target for treats, or fly to them when signaled.
Thanks for reading! I hope this article has been educational, and perhaps even changed your outlook on pigeons or helped you better care for your own pet pigeon.
If you want to follow along on my own pigeon adventures, go here: https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/meet-my-rescued-pigeons.1522507/.
And here’s another article that covers the basics of pigeon care: https://www.olivesplace.org/pages/pigeons-as-pets.
I get it through a pigeon food supplier, along with their feed, Purgrain in Pennsylvania. There are many types of grain mixtures, some have more smaller grains or are geared for breeders or racers, etc. If you find a good feed supplier, they often carry the grit, too.
