Get Your Chickens Ready for Winter

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New chicken owners often worry about how best to keep their chickens warm and cozy as temperatures dip and snow piles up. Depending on the breed, most chickens tolerate winters much better than we humans do! By following a few simple steps, your chickens will survive even the worst that winter can throw at us.

Winterizing the Coop

During winter, your chickens spend more time inside their coop, so keeping it insulated—but well ventilated—is essential. On the coop floor, you can incorporate the deep litter method. Lay a 4- to 5-inch-thick layer of pine shavings or other absorbent material on the floor. Turn it over every week or two, adding fresh shavings when needed. The chickens will do the rest by scratching and turning it over. As shavings or straw is added, the additional layers work to increase the insulation barrier. On cold, windy days, my hens stay inside the coop, and fluff into the warm bedding material. If you use a poop board under the roost, no droppings will soil the floor, so it stays clean. I utilize this method year-round and have never experienced any odors from accumulated droppings.

Create wind barrier on runs with plexiglass panels.
Plexiglass panels, sturdy and reusable, make a great wind barrier for chicken runs.

Check Coop Ventilation


While it’s smart to insulate the coop in colder climates, it’s essential to incorporate ventilation at the coop roofline. Chickens are highly susceptible to respiratory illness. As chickens expel air, their warm, moist breath needs somewhere to escape. If air can’t escape, moisture - and frost - will develop inside the coop. This can be disastrous for your chickens. They can get a bronchial infection or frostbite on their combs and wattles. Check that all ventilation openings are free from obstructions, such as bird or wasp nests left over from the summer.

Nest Boxes and Roosts

As the temperatures dip, your chickens will roost with their feet tucked under their warm bodies to avoid frostbite. To do this, they need a roost wide enough to lay their feet flat. While a tree branch or small board is okay for younger or smaller chicks, adult, full-size chickens need a roosting board that is large enough to sit on flat-footed. For most breeds, a 2-by-4-foot piece of wood works well as a roost. Avoid metal for roosts, which not only retains cold temperatures, but can also become moist and freeze.

Your Chicken’s Food and Water

Even though temperatures will dip, your chickens will still need fresh water every day. If you live in a climate where temps get below freezing, it’s a good investment to purchase a heated waterer. I use the heated dog bowls found at big box stores and never have to worry about frozen water. You can also find waterers specifically for poultry, like the Heated All-Season Poultry Fount pictured at Tractor Supply. If you don’t have a heated waterer, check at least twice a day to make sure their water isn’t frozen.

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This time of year, chickens will be coming out of molt, so their food intake will increase. Even though chickens won’t be as active in the colder months, they’ll still expend a lot of energy to keep their body temperatures up, so will need good quality feed.

After all chickens have grown their feathers back from the fall molt, I start offering them scratch grains, consisting mostly of cracked corn. While this has little nutrient value and is considered a treat, giving chickens scratch grains an hour or so before they go to roost will help keep them warm overnight as they work to digest the grains. Avoid giving scratch all day, and save it for a treat right before bed.

Chickens and Snow

Most chickens don’t like walking on deep snow. Keep a path cleared so they can get outside for some exercise, or lay a path of straw for winter strolls. My chickens love to sit out on a sunny day. If they have a dust bath, try to keep that clear of snow as well.

One thing chickens do not like is wind. As long as they have a wind break and are protected from blowing snow, they should be encouraged to get out of the coop as much as possible. I have a small hut in their run, and a couple of shelters outside as well. Sit their food and water outside the coop as well to force them to at least go out for meals.

Bored Chickens

Since your girls won’t get out and about as much in the winter months, make sure to have some boredom busters. I let them peck at leftover pumpkins or sometimes place a cabbage in a swinging basket. They peck for hours, and avoid pecking each other. If you experience pecking or fighting, they’re most likely bored, so find some healthy treats or toys to keep them occupied. My girls are getting a xylophone from Santa.

Avoid Heating the Coop

I’ll say it again, in all caps: PLEASE DON’T HEAT YOUR COOP. I could share images of burnt coops or tragic stories, but just—don’t. We all think of our chickens as pets, but they’re not human. The ONLY time additional heat is necessary is for new baby chicks, which should be kept in a brooder with a heat lamp to keep their body temps up (if they have no mama hen). They don’t need sweater vests or a heated coop, and either could be detrimental to their health.

Wind protection, fresh feed and water, good coop ventilation, wide roosts, and boredom busters are the key to keep your flock happy and healthy through the winter.
About author
Husker Chick
I live on a small acreage outside Omaha, Nebraska, where I keep a varying number of hens, one cat, and one husband. I work as a freelance writer, often writing about chicken keeping, and also volunteer as a Master Gardener with the local Extension. Check out my blog covering chickens and gardening at ChickensintheGarden.com.

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Nice article to get you started on understanding the need to ready the coop for winter.
Highly informative.
This is a good start. There are some good points there, but overall the article is full of inaccuracies and untruths. It would be good not to keep perpetuating those. The newbies are watching (reading) and absorbing. So if it's going to be an official article, it should be accurate.

Here are some points that stand out:

- "Keeping the coop insulated is essential" - wrong. People keep chickens as far north as Alaska without insulation. Also, you don't explain what insulation even means, in the context of this article. You briefly call the coop bedding "insulation"... Is that it? Or insulation in the walls? New chicken owners will read this article and head to the hardware store to buy styrofoam sheets and whatnot to actually insulate their coops, and that's not a good idea.

- "The deep litter method" - you use this term incorrectly. What you describe is the deep bedding method, not the deep litter method. The two are very different and the article only perpetuates the confusion. The deep litter method is a moist composting system that needs to have water added. If you do it wrong, the water will freeze and make things worse. The deep bedding method is completely dry, and foolproof in winter. People who don't know the distinction may look up DLM and attempt that, and end up with a frozen coop floor, so let's get that one straight.

- Ventilation. Yes, it's extremely important, but you don't say anything specific about it. How much? What's good ventilation vs. bad ventilation? No mention of drafts, people's biggest fear in winter. Drafts are not a big deal if it's the crack between two boards in the wall that's barely letting air in. People tend to want to seal their coops shut in winter, thinking any small gap is going to kill their chickens. A bad draft is one that's strong enough to ruffle and open the chickens' insulating feathers. Cracks are fine. Any roost-level actual ventilation is not. And ventilation should be 1 square foot per chicken, in all weather, yes even in winter. This is the most misunderstood and overlooked winter chicken keeping advice and it's worth a mention!

Your ventilation paragraph doesn't mention ammonia at all, which is another big oversight. All it talks about is warm moist air, and the chickens getting a bronchial infection and frostbite. They won't get a bronchial infection from moist or freezing air. It's the buildup of ammonia (from their poop) that can give them respiratory problems. It's good to make the distinction so people understand the poop side of things, not just the moisture side of things.

- They need to roost with their feet flat, tree branches are not okay - all that is wrong. No, they don't need their feet flat and no, tree branches aren't for young or small birds only. Chickens have been roosting on branches long before people invented flat boards to give them. There have been multiple studies on the matter, that more or less show that the fuss over roosts is all in your head. Unless it's something ridiculously small and thin, like 1" diameter, the chickens are going to be totally fine. Including on (sufficiently wide) branches. If you don't believe me, give them a big branch, wait for them to go to sleep and go look at them with a flashlight. You probably won't find any exposed toes - that's what all that fluff is for, to cover them up!

- Scratch/corn keeps them warm at night - this is an old wives' tale that just won't die. And it keeps being propagated by half-baked articles like this one. Digestion (of anything) doesn't produce enough heat to make any difference whatsoever.

I'm sorry if this comes out too direct, I just want to set the facts straight because inexperienced people use these articles to learn from, so I think the standard needs to be held higher. It's a nice article otherwise, and makes some important points, like not heating the coop - nice big all caps, too, to drive the point home. That's an important one. You're on the right path. With a few tweaks, this could be a very useful article.

Comments

This a very well done article. Beginning chicken keepers would do well to read it. And experienced keeps could also learn a thing or two.
 
Any extra advice you'd give for someone in the western Pacific Northwest where we don't generally get super cold, but have very wet winters?
 
Any extra advice you'd give for someone in the western Pacific Northwest where we don't generally get super cold, but have very wet winters?[/QUOTE

If you get standing water in your pen, you might want to throw down some straw or pine shavings. If rain/water gets deep, throw down some pallets to keep them out of the water. I do both in my pen, and I use the bundled straw from Tractor Supply.
 
Any extra advice you'd give for someone in the western Pacific Northwest where we don't generally get super cold, but have very wet winters?
I have tried a few things, and I can tell you maybe not the good solution, but some bad ones (learn from my mistakes)

pine shavings gather up water and do not dry EVER. So if you put them down, you will be shoveling them out as heavy smelly wood chips in whatever else was there (if on soil, with poo, with other materials, it gets crazy messy and heavy). It might be a good idea, it might not, but you should know before you toss them down gingerly, that you may have to lug buckets of them out later. If it gets freezing or lower, you may have to shovel them out when they turn into a deep layer of mucky ice.

straw, what no one mentioned to me, is that not all straw is the same. I have tried straw from:

soy plants: and it is heavy banches, so it makes an air layer, but it is not absorbant and it makes a lot of dust. It is not comfortable for animals who snuggle down into it (I have a big Tom turkey and some ducks, they did not like it), but the chickens are ok walking on the surface. But everything falls between the branches so it makes a poo+dust+bits layer underneath it, which can be hard to clean depending on the flooring. The biggest issue is how BIG it is when you try to remove it. It just does not pack well into a pail, so I ended up having to find an old bag (from a cube of peat-moss) to cart it out to the back garden. The bright side is it weighed nothing, but it was cumbersome to fit into the compost. It is also the cheapest by far. (about a quarter of the price of the wheat bail)

wheat/oats: less branchy than soy, but also has dust issues if you take it in natural bails. Better absorbency, and more comfy in the nests and as bedding for my Tom-turkey. It flattens out well on the floor when you walk on it, so it is easier to clean, but it will make a cold floor not-much better.

a bag of fine straw all chopped up: it has better absorbancy, and for turkey and duck poo it is great for easy cleanup. It is comfy for sleeping on and in nest boxes. It does nothing for keeping a floor warm and it is expensive, but I use a LOT less of it, and so it is just the same price in the end. It is hard to get in my area though, but if I can get 3 bags it is enough for the winter for 10 chickens, one bug turkey and 2 ducks.

basically I have come to the idea that a combo by 'where' is the most important way to choose the bedding, but when it comes to water in a run, the best solution I have is to dig outside of it and put in drainage outright. If you put in a french drain you'll just need a shovel to dig a trench, and some rocks (I gather them as I work/walk in the garden into old plastic flower pots you get with plants you get from the garden center so then i have buckets of rocks available for free, but you can buy rocks pretty cheap in most places). If you have the funds, there are pipes with holes in them you can put in the bottom of your trench to direct the water away. If you build the run on high ground, (or bring dirt from elsewhere on the property to the run), you get the same effect, try to direct the water away as best you can, it is less work than trying to absorb it once you have it in the run.
ù

Be careful there is no moisture on any of the straw if you buy natural bails, they make mold really easily.
 
I have tried a few things, and I can tell you maybe not the good solution, but some bad ones (learn from my mistakes)

pine shavings gather up water and do not dry EVER. So if you put them down, you will be shoveling them out as heavy smelly wood chips in whatever else was there (if on soil, with poo, with other materials, it gets crazy messy and heavy). It might be a good idea, it might not, but you should know before you toss them down gingerly, that you may have to lug buckets of them out later. If it gets freezing or lower, you may have to shovel them out when they turn into a deep layer of mucky ice.

straw, what no one mentioned to me, is that not all straw is the same. I have tried straw from:

soy plants: and it is heavy banches, so it makes an air layer, but it is not absorbant and it makes a lot of dust. It is not comfortable for animals who snuggle down into it (I have a big Tom turkey and some ducks, they did not like it), but the chickens are ok walking on the surface. But everything falls between the branches so it makes a poo+dust+bits layer underneath it, which can be hard to clean depending on the flooring. The biggest issue is how BIG it is when you try to remove it. It just does not pack well into a pail, so I ended up having to find an old bag (from a cube of peat-moss) to cart it out to the back garden. The bright side is it weighed nothing, but it was cumbersome to fit into the compost. It is also the cheapest by far. (about a quarter of the price of the wheat bail)

wheat/oats: less branchy than soy, but also has dust issues if you take it in natural bails. Better absorbency, and more comfy in the nests and as bedding for my Tom-turkey. It flattens out well on the floor when you walk on it, so it is easier to clean, but it will make a cold floor not-much better.

a bag of fine straw all chopped up: it has better absorbancy, and for turkey and duck poo it is great for easy cleanup. It is comfy for sleeping on and in nest boxes. It does nothing for keeping a floor warm and it is expensive, but I use a LOT less of it, and so it is just the same price in the end. It is hard to get in my area though, but if I can get 3 bags it is enough for the winter for 10 chickens, one bug turkey and 2 ducks.

basically I have come to the idea that a combo by 'where' is the most important way to choose the bedding, but when it comes to water in a run, the best solution I have is to dig outside of it and put in drainage outright. If you put in a french drain you'll just need a shovel to dig a trench, and some rocks (I gather them as I work/walk in the garden into old plastic flower pots you get with plants you get from the garden center so then i have buckets of rocks available for free, but you can buy rocks pretty cheap in most places). If you have the funds, there are pipes with holes in them you can put in the bottom of your trench to direct the water away. If you build the run on high ground, (or bring dirt from elsewhere on the property to the run), you get the same effect, try to direct the water away as best you can, it is less work than trying to absorb it once you have it in the run.
ù

Be careful there is no moisture on any of the straw if you buy natural bails, they make mold really easily.
I have been using wheat straw for the floor of my run for a year now. The dust issues seems to be directly related to the quality of the bails. I had a batch which were filthy and dark gray. When I opened them and spread them out they were indeed full of dirt. I stick with fresh clean yellow straw now and I don't find they have any dust to speak of. The chickens get all happy when they see me cut one open. They love the leftover wheat flowers and they go picking. A good pitch fork to turn the straw over from time to time keeps the run clean.
 
I have tried a few things, and I can tell you maybe not the good solution, but some bad ones (learn from my mistakes)

pine shavings gather up water and do not dry EVER. So if you put them down, you will be shoveling them out as heavy smelly wood chips in whatever else was there (if on soil, with poo, with other materials, it gets crazy messy and heavy). It might be a good idea, it might not, but you should know before you toss them down gingerly, that you may have to lug buckets of them out later. If it gets freezing or lower, you may have to shovel them out when they turn into a deep layer of mucky ice.

straw, what no one mentioned to me, is that not all straw is the same. I have tried straw from:

soy plants: and it is heavy banches, so it makes an air layer, but it is not absorbant and it makes a lot of dust. It is not comfortable for animals who snuggle down into it (I have a big Tom turkey and some ducks, they did not like it), but the chickens are ok walking on the surface. But everything falls between the branches so it makes a poo+dust+bits layer underneath it, which can be hard to clean depending on the flooring. The biggest issue is how BIG it is when you try to remove it. It just does not pack well into a pail, so I ended up having to find an old bag (from a cube of peat-moss) to cart it out to the back garden. The bright side is it weighed nothing, but it was cumbersome to fit into the compost. It is also the cheapest by far. (about a quarter of the price of the wheat bail)

wheat/oats: less branchy than soy, but also has dust issues if you take it in natural bails. Better absorbency, and more comfy in the nests and as bedding for my Tom-turkey. It flattens out well on the floor when you walk on it, so it is easier to clean, but it will make a cold floor not-much better.

a bag of fine straw all chopped up: it has better absorbancy, and for turkey and duck poo it is great for easy cleanup. It is comfy for sleeping on and in nest boxes. It does nothing for keeping a floor warm and it is expensive, but I use a LOT less of it, and so it is just the same price in the end. It is hard to get in my area though, but if I can get 3 bags it is enough for the winter for 10 chickens, one bug turkey and 2 ducks.

basically I have come to the idea that a combo by 'where' is the most important way to choose the bedding, but when it comes to water in a run, the best solution I have is to dig outside of it and put in drainage outright. If you put in a french drain you'll just need a shovel to dig a trench, and some rocks (I gather them as I work/walk in the garden into old plastic flower pots you get with plants you get from the garden center so then i have buckets of rocks available for free, but you can buy rocks pretty cheap in most places). If you have the funds, there are pipes with holes in them you can put in the bottom of your trench to direct the water away. If you build the run on high ground, (or bring dirt from elsewhere on the property to the run), you get the same effect, try to direct the water away as best you can, it is less work than trying to absorb it once you have it in the run.
ù

Be careful there is no moisture on any of the straw if you buy natural bails, they make mold really easily.
Thanks for the response! I'm just now coming back to the forums so I'm just seeing it. Drainage on my property is an ISSUE(TM), and putting a French drain/trench where my run is is not plausible. Just digging the trench to sink my hardware cloth below ground was a lot of work because of how rocky my soil is to begin with. It took my mom a week with a pickaxe just to dig a narrow trench around 3 sides of the run (18 feet long by 8 feet wide) about 8 inches deep. What I've done in the run so far cover a section of it and what I couldn't cover, I've dumped a bunch of sand in. It's not the best solution in the world, but better than just mud. I also put a pallet and some tires out there for them to stand on so that they don't have to stand on the wet ground unless they want to. It's a work in progress. I'm hoping to tarp the section that I couldn't roof, but I need to find a frame for my tarp to keep it from collecting water and completely defeating the purpose.
 

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