After framing in the bottom floor, we continued to reinforce the studs with cross braces and paint all the wood going in. At this point we had also painted and cut the plywood for the initial roof base.

Once the second floor was put in, we decided it was time to started fastening the hardware cloth around the run area, and hang the door. The hardware cloth is 1/4" galvanized mesh. This is a finer mesh square than most hardware cloth setups on coops, but this mesh was also a heavier gauge, which made it mush stronger than the average hardware cloth. The mesh was stapled down the vertical runs on the studs, and then eventually covered by a 1x4 "fascia" piece that was painted the same color. This added additional reinforcement of the mesh.

We decided that 30" ceiling would be perfect to start the second floor of the coop. The second floor would only extend another 2' outside of the nesting area. The center of the coop would have ramps that led to the second floor on each side of the coop.

Once the initial roof was on, we started cutting and laying the floors and back wall. Note that the plywood for the floors was cut around the studs, so that it would slide in and fit fairly snug. Any crevices were subsequently filled in with spray foam, then sanded and painted over. The floor was then coated in a rubberizing product called Blackjack #57. Also note that on the back wall, we cut out a window to view the inside of the coop from the shed. This window would be covered in hardware cloth and then framed in.

After framing in the bottom floor, we continued to reinforce the studs with cross braces and paint all the wood going in. At this point we had also painted and cut the plywood for the initial roof base.

Once framed in and painted, we then started building the joists for the bottom floor. We settled on 36" high from the ground level for the bottom floor. This would leave plenty of room to build a second floor to house and roost more chickens. Note that the nesting areas extend an additional 2 feet on each side of the coop, while the middle of the coop was recessed to run around the back side of the tree.

We placed all studs 2' on center; turning them on their edge. We also left room on the far right corner to build the entry door for the run. We also ended up framing through the rafters, around the tree to add increased strength and durability for the roof.

Because there is water run off from the tool shed, the height of the coop closest to the shed would be higher than the far side. We settled on a 5 degree slope, calculating that it would be enough for water drainage; especially since we would end up putting gutters on the outside. The height of the side furthest away from the shed ended up being right around 7 feet tall. This should be plenty of room for an entry door and head clearance.

After framing in the bottom floor, we continued to reinforce the studs with cross braces and paint all the wood going in. At this point we had also painted and cut the plywood for the initial roof base.

tbonius
Feb 24, 2016

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