4’ x 6’ pen holds 8-10 chickens - for overnight and laying purposes. If you have more than four, they really need an external run or yard. The size of the pen is understated since there are actually two levels, each approximating 4' x 6'.
It has an aluminum frame and a perforated plastic floor; the only construction material parts I don't like are the wood in the supporting members and in the nest box. The only real design problem is a poorly spaced and implemented roost design. We reconfigured our roosting approach. A raccoon can reach through the 1" heavy wire mesh sides but it genuinely frustrates large dogs used to knocking lighter coops over.
Raises up on four wheels, and rolls easily - it is heavy though, 375 pounds. Frustrated the heck out of a neighbor dog.
It latches into the up position when you engage the wheels, and it won't slip out of position - but when you want to disengage the wheels, it is easy to do so.
Two levels - the top has a perforated floor with wide enough spacing and stepping bars for heavy breeds to use without foot problems. The heavy plastic-type flooring has wide enough cross pieces to not cause foot problems. The bottom floor is dirt.
Sliding gate to give the chickens free range - the pophole is actually a little on the small side, still large enough for Plymouth Rocks. There is also a clever sliding door in he back for removing eggs from the nest box.
Corrugated plastic skirting for winter - one of the best features is how many ventilation options you have with this. You can have it entirely open on two sides, and open at the bottom on the other two sides in hot weather, or completely enclosed when the temperature is below freezing.
The roof is steel and insulated.
The corrugated plastic (coroplast) is 10 mm, a standard agricultural size. The areas that may be opened for ventilation are made of serious 1" mesh heavy wire.
I keep the perimeter of mine on patio blocks to discourage digging predators; I leave the interior of the run open to the dirt, and toss in wood chips or shavings. I use a pair of old boot trays under the roosts to collect the night manure because it is far less work to empty those twice a week than to clean the coop floor on a regular basis.
Cleaning involves moving it out place, raking out the litter from beneath, pressure washing or using one of those home car washing brushes and an application of "Poop - Off" to clean out the interior , spraying with neem insecticide, and putting it back in place after it has dried. Between cleanings I simply empty the boot trays I use as "plop boards" and regularly apply neem or pyrethrin as in any coop. Since most manure happens at night on the roost, this means there can be literally a month or two between rakings out, and six months between washings.
It has an aluminum frame and a perforated plastic floor; the only construction material parts I don't like are the wood in the supporting members and in the nest box. The only real design problem is a poorly spaced and implemented roost design. We reconfigured our roosting approach. A raccoon can reach through the 1" heavy wire mesh sides but it genuinely frustrates large dogs used to knocking lighter coops over.
Raises up on four wheels, and rolls easily - it is heavy though, 375 pounds. Frustrated the heck out of a neighbor dog.
It latches into the up position when you engage the wheels, and it won't slip out of position - but when you want to disengage the wheels, it is easy to do so.
Two levels - the top has a perforated floor with wide enough spacing and stepping bars for heavy breeds to use without foot problems. The heavy plastic-type flooring has wide enough cross pieces to not cause foot problems. The bottom floor is dirt.
Sliding gate to give the chickens free range - the pophole is actually a little on the small side, still large enough for Plymouth Rocks. There is also a clever sliding door in he back for removing eggs from the nest box.
Corrugated plastic skirting for winter - one of the best features is how many ventilation options you have with this. You can have it entirely open on two sides, and open at the bottom on the other two sides in hot weather, or completely enclosed when the temperature is below freezing.
The roof is steel and insulated.
The corrugated plastic (coroplast) is 10 mm, a standard agricultural size. The areas that may be opened for ventilation are made of serious 1" mesh heavy wire.
I keep the perimeter of mine on patio blocks to discourage digging predators; I leave the interior of the run open to the dirt, and toss in wood chips or shavings. I use a pair of old boot trays under the roosts to collect the night manure because it is far less work to empty those twice a week than to clean the coop floor on a regular basis.
Cleaning involves moving it out place, raking out the litter from beneath, pressure washing or using one of those home car washing brushes and an application of "Poop - Off" to clean out the interior , spraying with neem insecticide, and putting it back in place after it has dried. Between cleanings I simply empty the boot trays I use as "plop boards" and regularly apply neem or pyrethrin as in any coop. Since most manure happens at night on the roost, this means there can be literally a month or two between rakings out, and six months between washings.
