$275 for this coop? Is it a good one?

[Going Quackers]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Large-Play-...526&pid=100010&prg=1076&rk=3&sd=281033756814&

http://www.ebay.com/itm/87-L-57-W-3...073?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7e5f8bb9

http://www.ebay.com/itm/87-L-57-W-3...073?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7e5f8bb9

Thank you all so much who have replied. I know it's time consuming but if you are able to can you take a quick peek at these and see if you you recommend them over the local one that I have posted in the original post. These are all on eBay so I'm not sure where they are being made, it looks like they are mainly fir wood. Thank you!!!

I am somewhat familiar with those types, flimsy would be A kind description. As for the hardware cloth, yes mine is screwed and washer attached. My run is actually a dog run, with smaller wire run around the bottom 2-3ft to prevent reach ins.

You know there are many very basic designs out there, it doesn't need to be complicated, there is a thread on a free plan from Purina. Again, most pre mades lack safety and good solid construction, unless there are placed inside something more secure are a problem waiting to happen.

Even within the coop pages, you can find some nice designs, some are truly a box lol and nothing wrong with basic, keys are predator proof/venting and ease of cleaning for you. I grabbed a back shot of the coop this morning, houses just 4 and we have it all for predators, now you will see a fence that is because it's inside my dog yard lol right by my house, since i wanted easier access despite being the country(small farm) plus keeps the girls even safer since basically they are surrounded by a 4ft chain link... (please ignore the obvious lack of paint on trim lol)

 

[goldfinches]

I agree. I've not seen one of those coops in person but have only read bad reviews about their sturdiness. Do you have a craigslist in your area? Often you can find a small shed of coop on there. My coop is just a shed clearanced out from Home Depot that we added windows, nest boxes and roosts to. You could do the same, roosts are just sticks attached to the ceiling or walls, nest boxes can be as simple as plastic crates or 5 gallon buckets, and the windows were just for my happiness.

My dad told me the Amish craftsmen build wonderful coops, don't know if you have any near you?

Here's a coop that's pick-up only, but more sturdy than the ones you looked at...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHICKEN-TRA...199?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2327e0c0c7

All that said, if you do get one of the ones from ebay, if you secure it in a good run or maybe figure out a way to make sure the coop itself is very secure, it could work.

 

[Trefoil]

The coop that goldfinches posted is the best bet to me. If you intend to free range for much of the time. But if you get one be prepared to replace the hardware if necessary so coons can't break in. Also you will need to go completely over any of them to make the necessary changes to make them predator proof. Any run without some kind of barrier will allow predators to dig or just go under the sides and gain entry. The wood on the ones you linked to at least is going to be very flimsy and also will need re finishing to be weather proof before use.On most coops like these the roofs leak. That said. If you only intend to have 2 or 3 chickens, the premade coops may be the way for you to start. make the adjustments needed and see how it goes.

 

[Johnouthouse]

Contact the guy that builds the Coop in Texas and discuss his design. He should be more than happy to work with you on a custom design that will answer your concerns. Coops are not cheap to build and quality is not cheap to own. Materials are not free and Quality construction takes time which equals labor and labor costs $$$. As a rule you will get more from the local guy and doing so more to support your local economy. Those little added extras take time and do add extra security but then again time = money.

Here are a couple of Coops that I Build

 

[Going Quackers]

Contact the guy that builds the Coop in Texas and discuss his design. He should be more than happy to work with you on a custom design that will answer your concerns. Coops are not cheap to build and quality is not cheap to own. Materials are not free and Quality construction takes time which equals labor and labor costs $$$. As a rule you will get more from the local guy and doing so more to support your local economy. Those little added extras take time and do add extra security but then again time = money.

Here are a couple of Coops that I Build

$800.00 7ft tall x 6ft wide x 7ft long

$500.00 including extra run

I really like your first one! i love those all in one units!

 

[Melileesun]

That's basically what I ended up doing, I called him!. From this post I was able to come up with a list of questions that concerned me about the coop. I called the guy, and he knew everything about the design (well since he designed it) and each element was used for a specific reason. I first asked him if the hardware cloth was stapled on, it is but he uses 1 inch heavy duty staples, the rest of the coop is put together using 3 inch deck screws. The metal roof and open design were made specifically for our climate, which includes several 100 degree summer days. There is ventilation and the metal roof will provide shade and reflect heat. The wood is cedar, so it is naturally rot resistant. I was worried about the gaps in between the horizontal slats, he assured me that these were measured at 3/4 inch and a raccoon needs a full inch to get in, (I'm still going to attach hardware cloth on the inside of these just to be sure). The nesting boxes and two roosting bars are made from pine, which I think has some natural antibacterial properties and doesn't emit oils like cedar that has caused issues with the chickens. The open floor design is made to emulate a chicken's natural habitat, which is roosting in a tree. Their droppings will fall straight on the ground and it has handles so I can move it around and have easy cleanups. I am going to put rocks around the bottom and possibly 6 inches of hardware cloth around the perimeter for added protection.
So I went with it. I felt good about buying local and from someone who owns chickens and has sold this design to many other people without issues. And I got a great deal at $265. I will probably add $25 worth of additional materials (hardware cloth, an extra lock, cute handle, etc). I also see potential for lifting this coop or extending the run pretty easily if the need arises. Now to get chicks and get this show on the road!

 

[ScottM]

Do comment on this post again once you've hadit long enough to see if it met your expectations pls

 

[pshay4]

I live a little south of you. I have had raccoons pull young birds through 1/2 x 1" welded rabbit wire. I use an air staple gun with the same staples. They will start to loosen and pull out after about a year. I now face over the stapled wood with a 1 x 4. Here in So. TX, you don't need a completely enclosed pen. But you do need some solid wall to protect from the north and west during the winter. I use metal for my roofs, but mine have more head room. Be sure you have shade during the summer, because it gets really hot! That is going to be your main concern in our area.

 

[Justicedog]

Of the 3 you posted, I like the first one best. It doesn't look big enough to put the food/water inside the coop. That was something a friend of mine finds annoying with her coop, but then, we get some cold and snow in our winters here.