I purchased some hatching eggs that were delivered to my house. The problem is yesterday the temperature was in the 50's today it's in the 30's and I am not home to get them in the house. Think the eggs will be ok?
Sponsored Post A How-to Guide to Hatching Your Own Chicks
- Thread starter JenniO11
- Start date
@TownHouse Seramas,
The Brinsea Mini models require one of the two halves to be filled for the first 17 days (for seramas) and BOTH of the reservoirs to be filled --top it off-- before lockdown.
This advice from a Brinsea consultant online.
It's a simple method, but it's worked every time for me. I don't use anything but Brinsea any more. I don't think you need a humidity pump, but you may want to carefully drill a few extra holes around the bottom lip, so that you have extra humidity control if you're hatching during humid summer conditions. Put electrical tape over the holes you don't need. You can remove the tape during hatch. I have 8 holes around the lower lip of the lid, to aid drying of the chicks. Beware condensation in the inside of the dome. That mean's there is too much.
I've used my Mini Ecos & Advances (! have 4 Minis) for both bantams and Seramas. I find it best for seramas, and there's an optional egg tray you can buy for serama-size eggs (size 4-6 on the Brinsea egg gauge chart) which holds 12 total. You'd need to use a separate incubator for hatching if you fill your egg tray to more than half capacity for either, otherwise the little peeps can wreck havoc with the remaining eggs trying to move around.
Good luck!
The Brinsea Mini models require one of the two halves to be filled for the first 17 days (for seramas) and BOTH of the reservoirs to be filled --top it off-- before lockdown.
This advice from a Brinsea consultant online.
It's a simple method, but it's worked every time for me. I don't use anything but Brinsea any more. I don't think you need a humidity pump, but you may want to carefully drill a few extra holes around the bottom lip, so that you have extra humidity control if you're hatching during humid summer conditions. Put electrical tape over the holes you don't need. You can remove the tape during hatch. I have 8 holes around the lower lip of the lid, to aid drying of the chicks. Beware condensation in the inside of the dome. That mean's there is too much.
I've used my Mini Ecos & Advances (! have 4 Minis) for both bantams and Seramas. I find it best for seramas, and there's an optional egg tray you can buy for serama-size eggs (size 4-6 on the Brinsea egg gauge chart) which holds 12 total. You'd need to use a separate incubator for hatching if you fill your egg tray to more than half capacity for either, otherwise the little peeps can wreck havoc with the remaining eggs trying to move around.
Good luck!
@ sshavney,
Yes!! they should be just fine. Just don't let them freeze overnight. Anywhere from 33F to 55F should be fine for them to sit in the post box or on the porch. You'll want to let them warm to room temperature completely before putting them in your preheated incubator or broody.
Let them settle for 12-24 hours after their voyage. Good luck!
Yes!! they should be just fine. Just don't let them freeze overnight. Anywhere from 33F to 55F should be fine for them to sit in the post box or on the porch. You'll want to let them warm to room temperature completely before putting them in your preheated incubator or broody.
Let them settle for 12-24 hours after their voyage. Good luck!
Thank you! I have been so worried.
@ bantyshanty,
Okay, thank you so much, that explains the problems I had. The first time I had two hatch, but the second time I didn't have any. I got the second disc for it, the larger disc works fine for the bigger eggs, but the other disc is better for the small ones, I also hatch Button Quails so, I definitley needed the smaller one.
Okay, thank you so much, that explains the problems I had. The first time I had two hatch, but the second time I didn't have any. I got the second disc for it, the larger disc works fine for the bigger eggs, but the other disc is better for the small ones, I also hatch Button Quails so, I definitley needed the smaller one.
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i just candled my eggs again @ day 6... i see small vains and one has a small round dark spot with vains. I am sooo excited. I will have to try to get a picture tomorrow. 
A great 'how-to' guide. Thank you for putting that together
- Feb 16, 2012
- 7
- 0
- 7
eggs start to drop in fertility around 10 days old
I don't think "fertility" changes (either the egg was fertilized or it wasn't). I think viability of an egg developing changes over time, and maybe the statement above was related to the time frame an egg is viable for incubation from the time it is laid to the time the incubation process is started?
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