Aggressive Rooster

[oldhenlikesdogs]

I have always made sure that my young roosters move away from me as they are maturing, I use a fishing net if I need to make my point.

I have watched my dominant roosters moving the submissive ones away. I have observed a general distance of about 5-15 feet is required, so if a rooster is coming into your space there's going to be trouble.

All my roosters move away from me, none are picked up except if they need nails or spurs trimmed. I own many different breeds of roosters and all are respectful and I don't even think twice about their behavior towards me.

 

[slkyldy4evr]

Maybe I just got lucky with mine, that was a very well written post and I will use it in the future is I have any more problems with roosters.

 

[bobbi-j]

@dogkahuna - that was a different post than the one I had in mind, but it was even more thorough, so I'm glad you posted it. Thank you for taking the time to do that.

 

[dogkahuna]

Happy to help--I'd like to read the one you had in mind though.

 

[bobbi-j]

Happy to help--I'd like to read the one you had in mind though.

This is the one I was thinking of. Similar, but without the definition of "rooster speak".


Think about the difference between the guys and you. They likely walk around that rooster like he doesn't matter, walk right through him probably and don't give him a second's thought. The rooster knows the difference between calm assertive nature and someone who is more timid, more submissive. Standing up to him as he attacks is not going to work, because you've let him take the initiative in the whole scenario...that leaves you on the defensive and makes you a lesser creature in his eyes. He knows you are no threat to him and he is going to press his advantage.

Stop and think a moment. Why are you scared of him? Afraid he will hurt you with his talons, obviously. Mostly they don't even do much with those when they attack a human, mostly it's a lot of wing flapping and movement, but if you are wearing pants, he can't do much damage at all. He's a 2 ft. tall animal, if he's lucky, and big. Can't really do much in the way of hurt right now as he hasn't even gotten his spurs.

Now that we've established he is small, you are large, he only has toenails and a beak, you have the advantage of height, the ability to use tools and you have higher thought processes...meaning you have all the advantages on your side, you just don't stop to think about them when you are being attacked. Why not think about them BEFORE you are attacked? This works...it really works if you work it.

Go on the offensive instead of defensive...use his own tactics against him. Get yourself a long and limber cane/switch and prepare where you will teach him his first lesson in what it means to be a woman on this Earth. We don't get back, we get even.

Take away the feed and feed by meals for a few days so that all chickens have to come to the feeding area at feeding time. Then take your cane and not let him in to the feed by tapping his head, his back, his tail....get him on the run away from you...in fact, use your body and the cane to get him running and keep him running. Don't worry about the hens...at first they'll freak out but soon they realize they are not the target and will go back to eating.

Then...let him to the feeder, let him relax for a few seconds. Then take your cane and give him a swift smack to the fluffy butt, hard enough to startle him and make him jump, then keep tapping him on the back and head as he runs away.

Take your time, enjoy the process. Trust me...this will be fun! This won't take much of your time, but it will be time well spent. Drive him completely out of the coop or away from the flock and don't let him back in.....face him at all times and advance, never back up. If he advances towards you, give him a thwack with your cane and keep walking towards him, make him RUN.

The object of the lesson is to teach him you are the predator in this situation, you have the power to control his movements because he is most obviously the prey and smaller..and weaker. The final goal is to have him looking over his shoulder at all times to see where you are and him moving away from you as you get near.

The next day...do it again! I'm betting you'll see quicker response times on his part, more alertness to when you walk into the coop or run...only he won't be moving towards you, but away.

After that, keep your cane leaning near the coop and tune him up a little every now and again, just for funsies. More important....don't be timid when you walk into that flock. You won't make them mad at you or fear you too much if you walk with confident, wide strides, walking through them and not around them. Walk towards him intentionally every day to make sure he retreats when you do so...that's the desired response. He should walk a wide berth around any humans because we rule the roost, not him. He's food.

If you follow this and follow through on your own behavior, I'm betting you'll have yourself a good bird there. He already recognizes authority, which is why he doesn't bother your menfolk...you just need to let him know you have your own authority and it's called woman.

 

[EmmC]

So, he just got here last night, and he does seem very protective already. When you pick him up he bites, and he gets very defensive when you walk near him. He also never stops crowing. This may just be because he is new here, and he was taken away from his old hens, so I will give him some time to settle in before I try a no crow collar.

 

[EmmC]

This is the one I was thinking of. Similar, but without the definition of "rooster speak".


Think about the difference between the guys and you. They likely walk around that rooster like he doesn't matter, walk right through him probably and don't give him a second's thought. The rooster knows the difference between calm assertive nature and someone who is more timid, more submissive. Standing up to him as he attacks is not going to work, because you've let him take the initiative in the whole scenario...that leaves you on the defensive and makes you a lesser creature in his eyes. He knows you are no threat to him and he is going to press his advantage.

Stop and think a moment. Why are you scared of him? Afraid he will hurt you with his talons, obviously. Mostly they don't even do much with those when they attack a human, mostly it's a lot of wing flapping and movement, but if you are wearing pants, he can't do much damage at all. He's a 2 ft. tall animal, if he's lucky, and big. Can't really do much in the way of hurt right now as he hasn't even gotten his spurs.

Now that we've established he is small, you are large, he only has toenails and a beak, you have the advantage of height, the ability to use tools and you have higher thought processes...meaning you have all the advantages on your side, you just don't stop to think about them when you are being attacked. Why not think about them BEFORE you are attacked? This works...it really works if you work it.

Go on the offensive instead of defensive...use his own tactics against him. Get yourself a long and limber cane/switch and prepare where you will teach him his first lesson in what it means to be a woman on this Earth. We don't get back, we get even.

Take away the feed and feed by meals for a few days so that all chickens have to come to the feeding area at feeding time. Then take your cane and not let him in to the feed by tapping his head, his back, his tail....get him on the run away from you...in fact, use your body and the cane to get him running and keep him running. Don't worry about the hens...at first they'll freak out but soon they realize they are not the target and will go back to eating.

Then...let him to the feeder, let him relax for a few seconds. Then take your cane and give him a swift smack to the fluffy butt, hard enough to startle him and make him jump, then keep tapping him on the back and head as he runs away.

Take your time, enjoy the process. Trust me...this will be fun! This won't take much of your time, but it will be time well spent. Drive him completely out of the coop or away from the flock and don't let him back in.....face him at all times and advance, never back up. If he advances towards you, give him a thwack with your cane and keep walking towards him, make him RUN.

The object of the lesson is to teach him you are the predator in this situation, you have the power to control his movements because he is most obviously the prey and smaller..and weaker. The final goal is to have him looking over his shoulder at all times to see where you are and him moving away from you as you get near.

The next day...do it again! I'm betting you'll see quicker response times on his part, more alertness to when you walk into the coop or run...only he won't be moving towards you, but away.

After that, keep your cane leaning near the coop and tune him up a little every now and again, just for funsies. More important....don't be timid when you walk into that flock. You won't make them mad at you or fear you too much if you walk with confident, wide strides, walking through them and not around them. Walk towards him intentionally every day to make sure he retreats when you do so...that's the desired response. He should walk a wide berth around any humans because we rule the roost, not him. He's food.

If you follow this and follow through on your own behavior, I'm betting you'll have yourself a good bird there. He already recognizes authority, which is why he doesn't bother your menfolk...you just need to let him know you have your own authority and it's called woman.

This sounds like a great idea. I think this is what I will try first.

 

[lazy gardener]

Here is what Beekissed said--I think this is the post bobbi-j is referring to.

"I'm going to give you a clue on "rooster speak"....holding him down doesn't mean anything to him. If you'll watch how roosters interact between dominant ones and subordinate ones, there is rarely any, if ever, holding a bird down for a long time when there is an altercation. There is very quick flogging, gripping by the back of the head and flinging him away or getting him down and giving some savage pecking to the back of the head or neck. No holding him down and nothing else. That's a rooster on a hen maneuver, not rooster on rooster.

Because your rooster is attacking you, you are the subordinate in this picture. You are getting dominated by your bird simply because you are walking where a subordinate isn't supposed to be walking when a dominant is in the area. What you never see is a dominant rooster getting attacked by a subordinate rooster unless there is going to be a definite shift in power, at which time the sub will challenge the dom and win...or lose. So far you are losing and not even challenging.

If you want to win this battle, you must go on the offensive, not the defensive. He who attacks first, and is still claiming the area when the other guy leaves it, is the winner. Some people never have to go on the offensive because their movements in the coop are so decisive that they move and act like a dominant and a 2 ft. rooster is smart enough to recognize a dominant attitude and behavior...which is likely why he's never attacked your husband. Most men move more decisively than do women and children and they rarely step around a bird, but walk through them.

Carrying him around also doesn't mean anything to him...it just doesn't translate at all. His environment is that coop and run floor and that's where you need to speak to him, in a language he understands. Because they are quick on their feet and can evade you, you need a training tool like a long, limber, supple rod of some kind...cutting a nice switch from a shrub or tree that will lengthen your reach by 5 ft. really helps in this. Don't use a rake or broom because they are too clumsy and stiff and can put the hurts on the guy when you don't really mean to.

When you enter your coop, walk with decisive movements and walk directly towards your rooster. Move him away from the feeder and the rest of the flock and keep a slow, determined pressure on him until he leaves the coop. The stick will help you guide him. Then...wait patiently while he gets his bird mind around what just happened. He will try to come back in the coop...let him. When he gets a good bit into that coop, take your switch and give him a good smack on the fluffy feathers under his tail if you can aim it well. If you cannot, just smack the floor near him very hard and fast until he hops and runs and keep at it until he leaves the coop once again. Repeat this process until he is too wary to come back in the coop.

Feed your hens. When he tries to come to the feeder, you "attack" him with the switch...smack the wall by the pop door just as he tries to enter. If he makes it inside, pursue him with the stick either smacking the floor or tapping him on the back or the head until he leaves in a hurry. Make him stay outside while you sit there and enjoy watching your hens eat. Use the stick to keep him from the flock..just him. Don't worry about the hens running and getting excited when this is happening...they will get over it. This is for the future of your flock and your management of it.

When the hens have had a good tucker....leave the coop and let him come back in. Go out later and walk through that flock and use your legs to scatter birds if they get in your way...top roosters do not step to one side for any other bird in the flock. You shouldn't either. Take your stick and startle him with a smack on the floor next to him when he is least expecting it...make that bird jump and RUN. Make him so nervous around you that he is always looking over his shoulder and trying to get out of your way. THAT'S how he needs to be from now on in your lives together. Forget about pets or cuddles...this is a language and behavior he understands. You can hand feed him and such later...right now you need to establish that when you move, he moves...away. When you turn your back, he doesn't move towards you...ever.

Then test him...take your stick along, move around in the coop, bend over with your back turned to him, feed, water, etc....but keep one eye on that rooster. If he even makes one tiny step in your direction or in your "zone", go on the attack and run him clear on out of the coop. Then keep him out while everyone else is eating.

THAT'S how a dominant rooster treats a subordinate. They don't let them crow, mate or even eat in their space. If the subordinate knows his place and watches over his shoulder a lot, he may get to come and eat while the other rooster is at the feeder...but he doesn't ever relax if he knows what is good for him. At any given time the dominant will run him off of that feed and he knows it, so he eats with one eye toward the door. If he feels the need to crow, it's not usually where the dom can reach him...maybe across the yard.

If your rooster crows while you are there, move towards him and keep on the pressure until he stops. He doesn't get to crow while you are there. He can crow later...not while you are there.

It all sounds time consuming but it really isn't...shouldn't take more than minutes for each lesson and you can learn a lot as you go along. And it can be fun if you venture into it with the right attitude....this is rooster training that really works if you do it correctly. This can work on strange roosters, multiple roosters and even old roosters...they can all learn. You rule the coop...now act like it. Carrying is for babies...you have a full grown rooster on your hands, not a baby."

I have taken many good lessons from Bee, this one being among the most important and useful. She speaks with many years experience in animal husbandry of many species, not just chickens. After taking my roo in hand, and doing a tune up when ever needed, and some times when not needed, he knows voice command. When he comes in the coop with me, I will simply say, "Jack, OUT!" Out he goes. If he's running down one of my pullets, I'll step forward, and say, "Jack, NO!" And he'll do a sudden change of direction, and immediately find something more important to do. Kind of like the embarrassed cat who falls off the couch, and then immediately starts to take a bath, as if to say, "I meant to do that!" My rule with him is "arm's width away at all times. I will occasionally let him come close to take a treat that is destined for him, but he is very watchful when he does so. He's essentially a good boy, but, he's a livestock animal with a functioning set of testicles. I will not let him in the yard when there are visitors, simply because I can't trust my visitors, especially if children are in the yard. People who don't know chickens are simply not trustworthy. If kids are running around and squealing, especially if they head towards the flock, the roo is apt to consider it a threat.

Maybe I just got lucky with mine, that was a very well written post and I will use it in the future is I have any more problems with roosters.

I'm glad that you found Bee's advice helpful, and hope you know that BJ and others were not attacking you, but trying to help others understand roo behavior and how best to train a roo.

So, he just got here last night, and he does seem very protective already. When you pick him up he bites, and he gets very defensive when you walk near him. He also never stops crowing. This may just be because he is new here, and he was taken away from his old hens, so I will give him some time to settle in before I try a no crow collar.

Emm. It sounds like you have your work cut out for you. Are you allowed to have roos where you live? The excessive crowing is b/c he is establishing territory (IMO) and will settle down into his norm after a bit. I strongly suggest that you start his training right away, and that you do a lot of research before putting one of those collars on him. The injury rate is pretty high compared to the success rate, IMO. If he does not become a model citizen, don't hesitate to cull him. He's already failed at past home. Whether to mismanagement/lack of training, or due to ingrained defect which should not be bred forward is hard to tell. But if he continues with aggression after an effort at training him, don't let him play in the gene pool.

 

[IdyllwildAcres]

Quote: Edited

 

[EmmC]

I have taken many good lessons from Bee, this one being among the most important and useful.  She speaks with many years experience in animal husbandry of many species, not just chickens.  After taking my roo in hand, and doing a tune up when ever needed, and some times when not needed, he knows voice command.  When he comes in the coop with me, I will simply say, "Jack, OUT!"  Out he goes.  If he's running down one of my pullets,  I'll step forward, and say, "Jack, NO!"  And he'll do a sudden change of direction, and immediately find something more important to do.  Kind of like the embarrassed cat who falls off the couch, and then immediately starts to take a bath, as if to say, "I meant to do that!"  My rule with him is "arm's width away at all times.  I will occasionally let him come close to take a treat that is destined for him, but he is very watchful when he does so.  He's essentially a good boy, but, he's a livestock animal with a functioning set of testicles.  I will not let him in the yard when there are visitors, simply because I can't trust my visitors, especially if children are in the yard.  People who don't know chickens are simply not trustworthy.  If kids are running around and squealing, especially if they head towards the flock, the roo is apt to consider it a threat.  

I'm glad that you found Bee's advice helpful, and hope you know that BJ and others were not attacking you, but trying to help others understand roo behavior and how best to train a roo.

Emm.  It sounds like you have your work cut out for you.  Are you allowed to have roos where you live?  The excessive crowing is b/c he is establishing territory (IMO) and will settle down into his norm after a bit.  I strongly suggest that you start his training right away, and that you do a lot of research before putting one of those collars on him.  The injury rate is pretty high compared to the success rate, IMO.  If he does not become a model citizen, don't hesitate to cull him.  He's already failed at past home.  Whether to mismanagement/lack of training, or due to ingrained defect which should not be bred forward is hard to tell.  But if he continues with aggression after an effort at training him, don't let him play in the gene pool.

Actually, it's quite funny that you say he should not be bred. I have some of his babies and they are perfect little angel hens. He wasn't always mean, but felt threatened when my friend was kicking at something frozen in the ground and was never the same. I live an a rural area, so I can have roosters, and I have in the past but they have always been banties. I started working with him a little bit today and he already seems to have calmed down quite a bit. He was biting and fighting when I would pick him up, but now he will patiently sit on myour lap. So far, things are going pretty well. Thanks for the tips everyone!