At what age should you buy a cockerel?

[albodean]

I'm looking at getting a Light Sussex cockerel to join my flock and have a couple of questions.

1. My pullets are currently around 24 weeks old, when you get a cockerel is it better if he is around the same age, older or younger?

2. I currently have 3 hens, would it be necessary to buy more if I was to get a cockerel?

3. Would you still eat the eggs even though there is a chance of them being fertile?

The reason for getting a boy is I hope to raise chicks in the future.

 

[Lady of McCamley]

I'm looking at getting a Light Sussex cockerel to join my flock and have a couple of questions.

1. My pullets are currently around 24 weeks old, when you get a cockerel is it better if he is around the same age, older or younger?

2. I currently have 3 hens, would it be necessary to buy more if I was to get a cockerel?

3. Would you still eat the eggs even though there is a chance of them being fertile?

The reason for getting a boy is I hope to raise chicks in the future.

You've had a lot of good feedback on your question, but I thought I'd give my perspective as I did things a bit differently and actually enjoyed how it worked out.

First, I agree, look at why you want to raise chicks. With the acreage and size of coop, it sounds like you have plenty of space. If you have clear goals and a plan to roll with the ups and downs, you can have a lot of fun raising your own chicks.

But figure out why you want the chicks. What are your breeding goals.

Do you want a sustainable flock for meat and eggs? Backyard mixes can be excellent for that. Continue to naturally select for hardiness and meat/production by not over intervening with weak or failing birds (assuming you are using good flock keeping practices) and continually choose from birds that meet your demands to breed forward.

Do you want to breed a particular breed to standard? That will take good breeding stock and time with a real willingness to cull (re-home or eat or simply dispose) of those who do not meet standard. Obviously you'll need to connect with others in the breed to learn about the standards and how to improve your flock.

Is this simply a fun hobby? That is perfectly acceptable as well. However, as stated by others, you will need to deal with the extra hens and roosters, especially the roosters. That may not be fun as stated by a number of others.

Do you want pets? Then don't breed. Simply buy hens or sexed chicks. Keep them until they are too old and die of natural causes. Coddle and have fun with them, but don't breed them.

Does a rooster make hens happy? Well, you've got some feedback there from honest perspectives, mostly negative as many roosters are not kind nor a benefit to hens.

I would add though, I think it really depends on the rooster. A really good rooster does settle a flock, and here is my experience.

For years I kept a hen only flock as I was slowly building up my breeds and quality (from breeder eggs and chicks) and selecting which ones I wanted to keep and determining my purpose.

Although I liked the idea of dual purpose eggs/meat (and may come back to that), I decided to first focus on egg color. (I love selling a colorful egg basket). So, I wanted to breed for unique colors (dark brown, olive, green, etc.) After a lot of research, I determined the best way to go about that was to have a dark layer rooster over blue or green layer hens and other layer colored hens.

So I purchased pullets, chicks, and hatching eggs to form a good base flock. In time I moved to solely brooding with hens, and I keep a stable of brooding types that are utilized when they go into brood. (I rarely heat brood anymore.)

During this time I watched and analyzed the different hatches and kept an eye out for a good rooster. I personally think you can tell the temperament of a good rooster from chick hood, but you must continue to watch him in the teen phase to be certain.

So, I kept an eye on my hatches for a rooster that would fit the bill (dark layer genes, good temperament). Several years of efforts went by and I got a large portion of hens but few roosters (very amazing, let me tell you). Then the roosters I got were snotty as chicks and worse as teens (rehomed or went to the freezer camp).

I actually found my rooster from purchased chicks as I had heard Barnevelder roosters are typically pleasant. I had hoped for a breeding pair of Barnevelders, but instead I got 2 roosters. One was clearly a snot (attacking me upon startle), but the other had nice conformation and a very nice temperament. I began to work with him to reinforce that temperament by handling him and giving him treats upon handling. Brother got rehomed, and I kept my Bernard.

Bernard was kept in a separate pen with the pullets he was raised with until he was near mating age. He had not been broody raised (one of my few purchased chicks for breed stock), so I took time to integrate him into the main flock with his brooder mates.At first, the large gals gave him no respect. But he's a charmer, and in time he won over all their affections.

He has always been a gentleman...largely from his basic temperament, partially from my handling, but also from being hazed a bit from mature hens to know flock manners. Why do I think that? Because I've seen my broody raised roosters get put in their place by their mommas, and I see a lot less snottiness from them because of that. So growing up in the flock kept a nice rooster from developing nasty habits as held in check by broody hens.

What does he do that benefits my flock? He really does take care of them. He looks out for treats and calls the hens. He looks out for hawks, and calls the hens. He listens carefully to any distressed sound, and runs to see what is going on. He intervenes in hen squabbles. I used to have a considerable amount of hen squabbling...I have none now as Berny runs over and does his little dance to break up the spat.

He is also AWESOME with my brooding girls. I keep a brooding stable with my bantams for expensive hatches, but I've been letting my big gals brood in a corner in the main coop with the mixed breed batches. The established hens know how to take care of their babies, but there can be some flack as they first introduce them to the rest of the big girls.

On the first day of introduction, if a nosy hen harasses the newly returning broody and her chicks, there's Berny doing his little dance and deflecting the offender away from the brooding momma and chick.

He is simply awesome. And I know how very lucky I am to have him.

How did I get him?

Totally luck of the genes, but I recognized his sweet temperament from chickhood and did everything to encourage that.

His personality showed him to be stellar as he was handled. If he hadn't? Freezer camp or rehome would have happened.

My girls are calmer and do look for his protection. Even the skittish new pullets in grow out ran to him when a hawk did a dive by. Where he goes, they go. When I have new pullets from the grow out pen, it is Berny's job to help integrate them into the flock. I open the grow out gates, and the young girls hover unsure (like at a dance where the young teen girls hug the wall). Yup, he does his little dance and attempts to woo them. If they snub him or run, he backs off. Then he waits another day to charm them. In time, he has them integrated in the flock faster than I could have.

So my answer to you would be, as it sounds like you want to take your time and if you are purposed to grow chickens (not pets), then purchase more hens, hatch more chicks, and slowly decide what your goals are for your flock. Egg production? Egg color? Meat production? Eye candy? Breed standard?

Then consider choosing your best hatched or grown rooster that meets those demands rehoming or culling those that do not. You will be able to know what temperament he has and help reinforce that for your flock.

My experience for a smaller flock (10 to 13 girls to 1 rooster)

LofMc

 

[EggSighted4Life]

I agree with @Egghead_Jr on this one. I would get a bird over 1 year old that has been proven. Boys of the same age mature a little faster and are way hornier than the girls. They then grab the girls and make them scream while they rub vents together, since roosters do not have penises . The girls are NEVER happy about this, and have NO say in the matter! A rooster should be more gentile and less amorous than a young cockerel.

I don't think roosters equal that great of protection. And the cost of feeding one (for me $3/month) I could by 12 chicks each year. Of course it would be nice to have a broody raise them. But also, I am guessing we are talking hatchery stock, which is OK but their genetics often don't conform to the SOP for their breed. Which is OK if it fits your plan. Since I want my flock to self sustain for many generations I am trying to get the best genetic start I can. But what would you do with all the extra cockerels you hatch? We will be eating ours.

And from a personal stand point, I like to see different breeds dotting my yard with eye candy. Plus it makes me feel like a kid again when I get to be surprised by what I am going to find in the nest everyday. I like to be able to tell my birds apart at a glance so if I see something wrong I don't have to try to figure out which one it was. And being able to tell the eggs apart can also tell me things about their health like who's laying how often and any deformities. And then there is chicken math!

Breed interest can change. If you are stuck with too many light sussex maybe you won't get a chance to experience so many other wonderful breeds.

We eat our eggs and most are fertilized for sure. There is no difference. An untrained person wouldn't be able to tell at all assuming there hasn't been incubation taken place for a significant amount of time, probably a few days. And if you collect daily, shouldn't have much problem with broodies doing that.

Most of my flock would be much happier without a cockerel to pester them non stop. A rooster should be better. I have 2 sets of pure bred, French Black Copper Marans for dark eggs and meat quality. And Swedish Flower for a dual purpose interesting breed. I also have just egg layers of different breeds, but won't be hatching their eggs on purpose even though they are being bred by my boys and I will probably let them brood if they choose to.

Honestly, I wouldn't have roosters if I didn't have a very specific goal. I do think they are beautiful and I love to hear them crow, though some are more shrill and annoying than others. 3 pullets is not enough for 1 cockerel. But 3 hens and 1 rooster may be OK. As much as I would like to agree that there is a magic # to keep the girls from being over bred... with plenty of girls around I saw 1 pullet get mated by the same cockerel 4 times in less than an hour one day. More hens does give more opportunity to spread the love around. but some just won't give it up and he may not like others.

And my boy pecks down the girls who won't give it up and doesn't let them pass on the roost. To me, it's extra drama. It can be managed though.

Also if you have small kids or dogs, the boys may go after them if they are running around enjoying themselves.

It is a very multifaceted issue. And everybody has different experiences to share. No one way is right, except the way that works for YOU!

If this is your fist year with chickens, I HIGHLY suggest you do not try to add the dynamics of a cock bird at least until your next year.

Another consideration is that layer feed has too much calcium for roosters, especially since you wan't him to live a good long life. It can cause kidney issues long term. So I would feed a flock raiser or grower type feed that has more protein (like 20%) and less calcium (1% is good) and offer oyster shell free choice on the side for layers. Actually the same is true for chicks! Layer won't support growing chicks and it's too difficult for most people to provide multiple feeds plus making them eat the right one. Starter, Raiser, or Grower should be fine for everybody as long as OS is on the side for layers.

Best wishes!

 

[donrae]

From what you're saying, I don't think you really want the reality of a rooster.

Roosters mate hens. Several times a day. If you've only 3 hens, that's not very many for him to spread his lovin' around to. Each hen is going to get a lot of sexual attention.

If you get an older, mature rooster, things may go nicely. He may be a total gentleman, and court them well, and they're perfectly accepting. Textbook mating. But even at that, only 3 hens, you run the risk of winding up with bare backed hens, simply due to the math.

You're going to keep these hens forever. What about the chicks you hatch out? I understand wanting to have offspring from a beloved pet, but what about all the little cockerels you're going to hatch out?

Any time you add birds, or change things in their environment, you're going to stress your birds. Having a broody hen bring chicks into the flock would be a stressor. Bringing in a cock would be a stressor. I'm not saying all stress is bad, but you emphasized you want them to be stress free.....just something to think about.

 

[dekel18042]

I think same age or close. A much younger roo might get 'schooled' by the hens and not end up as top dog. I don't know how that will affect breeding. I have a non dominant roo, the pullets don't take crap from him. Although I think if he tried any mature stuff the bigger roos and the larger hens would kick his ***.

I would get either a mature rooster who has settled down and is gentle with the hens or go the opposite and if I had mature hens put a younger cockerel in with them. True, they will put him in his place but he will learn manners and you should wind up with a good rooster.
If you get a mature one you already know his temperament. Often people have extra roosters that are nice or they are willing to let a favorite go to a good home if they want to bring in new blood.
My avatar rooster was huge and had the sweetest temperament. He started life as a singleton (a test egg in the incubator with expensive shipped eggs, none of which hatched.) At eight weeks old as the weather was getting colder he was thrown into the adult pen in sort of a sink or swim deal; He was fine and for the first year was the secondary rooster who took over the flock.
I have a rooster now I added to my flock as an adult, another adult who grew up here and a cockerel I'm keeping for a backup rooster.

 

[Mrs. K]

An all hen flock is a nice flock to have, quiet and peaceful for the most part if you have enough space.

A couple of other options, especially for people who keep pets:
If you get a broody hen, then order sexed pullet chicks. You can slip these under her, and she will raise them up in the flock. All of the fun of a hen with chicks, none of the problems. No integration issues, no rooster needed. No rooster chicks.

Generally, when you raise your own chicks, you will get over 50% rooster chicks. Your experienced poultry people will tell you, that you cannot keep all of them without considerable raggedness and tension in your flock from over mating, or you must maintain them in a bachelor set up. Unless you have a huge amount of chickens and SPACE - say 100 head.

If decide to raise a rooster, in my opinion, you need a sharp knife. Many roosters are not nice, they can fight with other roosters, or attack people. If you take on a rooster, you need away to catch and confine it if needed, and cull it if needed.

I think you would be happiest, at least until you have more experience, to keep an all hen flock, adding a couple of chicks if you get a broody hen. Roosters take experience in my opinion. One is never quite sure how they will turn out.

Mrs K

 

[lazy gardener]

How big is your coop? Your run? A recommended MINIMUM is 4 s.f./bird in the coop, and 10 s.f./bird in the run. That's without a roo, without adding any chicks, without having a broody hen. Add any of these issues and you need much more space IMO. While the idea of hatching your own eggs is nice, the reality, not so much: The roo drama. Roos crow a lot. Not just in the morning, but ALL. Day. Long. A typical crowing jag will have any where from 3 - 10 crows. You will never know when you get a roo if he's a noisy bugger, or a polite one. The crowing starts at 4 Am. That boy is going to be breeding hens, non stop, especially in the spring and summer. My roo is 2 years old, and in a typical morning, or afternoon, he'll be mounting a hen about every 10 minutes. He's a busy boy. I've had up to 24 girls for him to pick from, and he always has his favorites. Their feathers are worn. Depending on the feather quality of the hen, they will either look tattered, or be bare backed. If a hen does not want to be bred, that roo will chase her down until she submits. Plan on having a broody? Some hens go broody often. But, for the most part, the broodiness has been bred out of most hatchery stock. And, if you do get a broody, she'll do it on her time frame, not yours. You also might run into a broody who's enamored with the idea of sitting on eggs. Taking care of babies: not so much. Some broodies will incubate right up until the chicks start peeping inside the egg, then they get confused and abandon the nest. Plan on every hatch being about 60% cockrels. What is your plan for them?

Here's my suggestion: If you REALLY want the chick experience, and want to try it with a broody, wait. Patiently. If you have a hen go broody, you can get some fertile eggs and pop them under her. You'll need to have a place where she can brood those eggs without her flock mates sneaking into her nest and adding more eggs, or chasing her out of her nest and breaking her eggs. Also a good idea to give her space of her own with her chicks for the first few days, then supervise as she brings her brood into the flock. Have an incubator and brooder handy in case she is unsuccessful. Have an exit plan for the cockrels.

 

[PeepersMama]

Hens are always happier without a Rooster.....Roosters breed many times a day.....



Cheers!

In my experience, when we had to send our BO man to heaven due to mareks, the girls did seem to miss him. There was alot more fighting on his end of the roost for about 2 weeks after he died.

I would get a roo that's a week younger than the hens, because roos mature faster than hens, and if the hens are slightly more mature than he is, he won't get to be the big boss till he's big enough to dominate them.
The temperament of the roo plays the biggest role. Smaller roos tend to be more over-zealous breeders, but the bigger the bird, typically, the calmer his temperament. My sussex boy probably would've killed a hen if he wasn't islolated, because the girls in his mini flock weren't maturing as fast as he was, and there were a few banties that didn't like him at all. He would've flattened them

Good luck!

 

[glennscheer]

While all of your answers seem to be logical, to a point, I have another view: Any child over the age of 6 ("At what age should you buy a cockerel?") is probably old enough to take on the responsibilities of a roster. And, yes, I am playing with the words.

 

[chickens really]

1. Personally I like Cockerels to be the same age...

2. The best ratio is 10 pullets to one Cockerel.....

3. Yes, eat the eggs....They are fine.....


Cheers!