Basic coop building specs

[TaylorC]

I'm not sure there's an inclusive thread on this subject yet, but I know I would've loved to have seen it myself when I was scouring here and the web in general looking for basic parameters for building a coop. Of course each flock will have its own needs, but there seem to be so many threads starting with some of these same basic questions that the info ought to be gathered somewhat. If some of the experienced birdherders would help out, it might make it easy for others down the road.
Here's what I've gathered as a consensus (though not fixed rules by any means):
(For any of this, a scale mock-up is advised for ergonomics of cleaning, etc.)
*Niceness = "They're chickens."
*Coop area = 4 sq ft per chicken
*Insulation is optional except for the coldest areas and even then should not hinder ventilation, critical for moisture and ammonia control.
*Nesting boxes = 1 per every 3-4 hens, somewhere in the cubic foot range, some deeper/taller is ok.
*Roost space = high as is convenient but higher than the nests at least, min 1' per bird, "DEFINITELY make multiple levels," "DEFINITELY make them all the same!"

*Pop door = easily secured, around 1 sq ft.
*Run area = 10 sq ft per chicken
*Run material = hardware cloth (either 1/2" x 1" or 1" x 1") for the bottom couple of feet, and buried "some" then 1x4 welded wire the rest of the way; chicken wire is useless against predators.
*Run height = tall enough to stand in if at all possible.
*Don't spend all your money, since you'll need some of it to build the "right" one after you use this one for a while.

Does all of this sound about right? What else can we add?

 

[MareeZoCool]

I'm still researching my renovation ideas for my coop. You sound advanced with your search & general knowledge for the coop building BEST OF LUCK TO YOU!

 

[Manok-Tao]

bout nailed it.
When building my present coop i took all that but summed it up with this.
Has to be user freindly to me....and the birds

 

[patandchickens]

Quote:
As a MINIMUM -- more (potentially a lot more) is better in a lot of ways.

*Insulation is optional except for the coldest areas and even then should not hinder ventilation, critical for moisture and ammonia control.

Optional but often still quite desirable, as it allows you to have more ventilation for the same indoor temperature retention. And if you think you might ever run a heater of any sort, it is *definitely* sensible to insulate, as that allows you to run a lower wattage i.e. lower electric bills AND safer.

*Run area = 10 sq ft per chicken

Again, MINIMUM... more (potentially a lot more) is better in a lot of ways.

Good luck, have fun,

Pat​

 

[Chieftain]

Please go up on Amazon. and buy yourself a copy of "Storey's Guide to Raising Chickens" by Gail Damerow. One of the people I suggested this to got back to me and said it is even available on Kindle!

Storey's is the best current primer on raising chickens out there in my view, and will give you a lot of information about the birds that will help drive your design.

Press on!!

 

[ChixMama]

Thank you, thank you, thank you...I wanted to know the same basic "minimums" while designing our coop (still in the process).

 

[gsim]

You have learned well. I also agree with Patandchickens advice. Build the run as large as you possibly can. Electrify it. Close coop nightly so as to have two lines of defense. I cannot begin to tell how many people on BYC predators section I read about who wish they had done that. Several ways to dig-proof it. One way is to rototill perimeter just outside of fence line and rake out sod. Then attach and lay flat some 1x1 welded wire and cover it. ANother way is to cement in the bottom of the fence. Not a deep trench necessary unless you have loose sandy soil. Just need to be sure that a few inches of concrete are OUTSIDE of the fencing to stop preds from digging in. Buried treated lumber works fine too, but will eventually rot. Buried RR ties or Tel poles would be fine if you have them free or very cheap.

I will add that while breed selection is important, from what I am experiencing in relation to many others this winter, I may have done something when my chooks were babies that many did not do. I always fed them raw greens and fruits and seeds from my garden from day 1. I think most just do starter feed. Also, I have a sizeable run at 70-80 sq ft/chook. I say this because I am getting what amounts to summertime egg output with no supplemental lighting. So those two things might have a bearing on that result. Then again, I could have beginner's luck too?

That was not your question, but you are preparing to start up so I threw it out there for what it is worth. Worked for me, might work for you too. Happy, healthy, stress-free chickens are usually productive chickens.

Best of everything.

 

[Manok-Tao]

Quote:
I believe the list is about quoted from Storey's

(Cheif, hope the new occupants are doing well)

 

[TaylorC]

Chieftain thanks for the suggestion. I just put in a request for the local library to get it, should be here in about ten days.

 

[MacDude]

Good basics.

I built an over engineered house for our 7 hens and a rooster, but we wanted expansion space.

Hen house is 4' x 6' (three nesting boxes, perch, auto-water, etc.)
Enclosure is 14' x 16' (with trench and hardware cloth buried, etc.)

We can add another 6 or so chickens as well.


Chicken & coop photos: http://www.sewfetching.com/ShawnsSite/Albums/Pages/Jeffreys_Chicken_Coop.html