Bob Blosl's Heritage Large Fowl Thread

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Bob, I do apologize for answering Walt's question about Chicken Breed U and getting your thread here so far afield.

At this point, folks. It's just an idea, a concept, a kicked around thought of a focused, instructional thread on breed type. That's all. How we might do it in a way where a select panel of presenters (judges and top breeders) actually get to teach, in a controlled way? I don't know if it is even possible or just a pipe dream. Thanks for all the responses, but until or unless such a concept can actually be developed, it's just a distraction here, I'd guess. Very sorry.

Mr Blosl this here is your thread, sir.
 
Bob, I do apologize for answering Walt's question about Chicken Breed U and getting your thread here so far afield.

At this point, folks. It's just an idea, a concept, a kicked around thought of a focused, instructional thread on breed type. That's all. How we might do it in a way where a select panel of presenters (judges and top breeders) actually get to teach, in a controlled way? I don't know if it is even possible or just a pipe dream. Thanks for all the responses, but until or unless such a concept can actually be developed, it's just a distraction here, I'd guess. Very sorry.

Mr Blosl this here is your thread, sir.
Dont worry about it. Many times a thought gets started and it can go crazy and wild.

I suggest you come up with a name for this you start it we will support the thread and we will continue to educate people like we have done for the past two years. Our mission should help people convert from feed store chickens to Standard Breed Large Fowl and help them find the breeds they want then show them how to have success with them. Very simple. You can get eggs hatch 8 or ten pick one or two males two or three females then hatch 40 the next year then 60 the year after that. By year three most beginners have a grip on what they are dong unless they have to many breeds and overwhelm themselves with number of birds to feed.

KISS.
 
I'm still playing catchup but had to respond to the discussion on starting a new thread for education on the different breeds. YIPPEE!!!! I can send pictures of Blue, Black or White Cochin; Columbian, Black or Blue Wyandottes and finally Australorp to be praised or picked apart. I would love the interaction with judges and those knowledgeable with all the breeds.

Hope everyone has a Wonderful and Prosperous New Year!

Now back to page 951....
 
Hi Walt, I need some help. I am sadly confused.
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OK, we know one of the breeds used to create the Light Sussex was the Light Brahma. That early elite Light Sussex breeders wrote (circa 1920-30's) to breed Light Sussex the same as the Light Brahma for color.
Books written, 95 to 135 yrs. ago, about breeding Light Brahma seem to me to give breeding advice that will create Light Sussex of the proper color. see Judge Card's book on "Breeding Laws" and this 1877 I.K. Fletch book: The amateur's manual; or, Specific mating of thoroughbred fowls (1877) http://archive.org/details/amateursmanualor00felc . ( Pages 1-16 and 28 thru 32 ) This would seem to confirm that both breeds were then on the same locus, ( eWh? which does not have black stippling on the saddle)

Now it is 2012. I see pics and read books that show Light Brahma with black saddle stippling and that they are based on eb Brown, even tho they are a black and white breed (yes, I see how an eb bird could be black and white). Now it seems, using currently advocated breeding techniques for Light Brahma will result in faulty coloring for Light Sussex ( i.e. black stippling on the saddle, etc.).
What is going on here? Have I made a mistake in my history study?
Have Light Brahma changed locus over the last century?
What do you think of that 1877 Fletch book as regards using the advice Fletch gives for breeding Light Brahma ...for breeding Light Sussex?
Why do Light Brahma have black stippling on the saddle now-a-days?
Could they still be eWh locus like the Light Sussex, yet fashion now decrees they have stippling on the saddle in spite of the fact eWh locus does not usually produce that effect?
I know it's important I understand which breeding method is correct for my Light Sussex or I am going to screw up the color matings.
Thanks so much for your help!
Happy New Year,
Karen

Hi Karen,

This made me go back and read Card again, specifically the section about Black, White and Black, and White birds. I don't have an answer for you, but I did take note of Card's advice not to use the stippled birds. If I understand what he wrote correctly, he says always use a bird with correct top feather even if the undercolor is less than desirable, and also took note of this on page 28:

almost invariably with the under-color bluish
white, or with fluff next to skin white and that
next to web blue or slate, the black points are
standard and the white points free from penciling
of black and brassiness or creaminess in undercolor.

I am not 100% sure this is considered the same as the markings you are seeing on the Light Brahma, but I read it over more than once and thought I'd quote it just in case :) He also, as you know, repeatedly goes back to "like begets like" and the reminder that despite the most careful linebreeding or inbreeding, nothing is 100% pure, that there is always some percentage, no matter how infinitesimal, of other blood. Now I'm off to read your link.
 
There is a flock of SC dark brown Leghorns for sale in NY. A total of 13 birds.
I found the ad in the poultry press on page 17 today and thought I'd share it here in case anyone is interested. These are not my birds but I know the breeder who is selling them and they are good quality birds.
If you do not get the poultry press and would like to know more details feel free to pm me.
 
I don't understand the, "let the eggs settle," after shipping thing.
I don't do it.

However, if it is this kind of weather, I do let the eggs warm up before setting them.


I agree Kathy. I have done extensive research in egg storage, transport and incubation and I know that after 7 days, times is of the essence and any temperature change after eggs initially cool is detrimental. So FOR ME, getting eggs in the incubator as soon as possible after receipt is the way to go. I will prewarm eggs only if they are to be added to a setter that already contains eggs to reduce the temperature drop in the setter as it attempts to warm the new eggs.


How do you prewarm your eggs?

Before I add any eggs to my incubator I use one of several methods. I either :
Add bottles of hot water to the container and cover with a towel,
or I microwave those rice bags and wrap in a towel, top with the eggs and a towel,
or I dampen a towel and microwave it for 30 seconds and wrap the eggs in that.
 
I'm envisioning the new thread as a kind of "Online Illustrated Guide to Standard Bred Poultry"

So, you would have pictures of various (anonymous) birds featuring say, the correct topline, one with a roach back, one with a squirrel tail, etc. not to compare, but to "illustrate". No "placing" per se, but scoring points for that attribute would be helpful.

I would hate to see it just become, as someone else put it, "OMG! Your bird is so pretty." (complete with that stupid drooling face)


>Edited for clarity

lau.gif
Standard Poultry Illustrated has me laughing! I can just see thong swimsuits on the birds now with their retouched photos and waxed and plucked regions!

Just call it the judgemental thread already and cull those folks who don't want to hear the details before they post.
 
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