Bob Blosl's Heritage Large Fowl Thread

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Hi,
I wish I could free range my birds. However, we have dogs wandering the semi-rural neighborhood. So they are kept semi-intensive in covered yards with 10 sq. ft. per bird.
The yard is dry, brown dirt until I can get rough river sand in there. I did hang up a ham bone on a rope in each run. They have stripped it in several days. The
boys finished first, but I think that was because they got a bone from brown sugar glazed ham and the girls got a Smithfield ham bone.
Best,
Karen
 
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Bob mentioned feather quality above - I would love to get my hands on some good reading material with pictures and good descriptions that details quality of feathers - what to look for, what to breed toward, how to correct issues, etc. If anyone can point me toward a good source for this information, I would most appreciate it!
 
Bob mentioned feather quality above - I would love to get my hands on some good reading material with pictures and good descriptions that details quality of feathers - what to look for, what to breed toward, how to correct issues, etc. If anyone can point me toward a good source for this information, I would most appreciate it!

Ditto. This is another "down the road" issue for my flock, to be dealt with after I've focused on size and body shape for a couple of years. A few of my javas have what I consider pretty good feather quality but overall in this flock the feathers are looser and narrower than I would like them to be. Plus all of the pullets have some degree of cushion. Previously Bob has mentioned selecting for fast-feathering to help with feather quality. With this batch of chicks I didn't notice any that were particularly fast to feather out. What else can we look for? And how do you get rid of those @#$@ cushions??
 
Ditto. This is another "down the road" issue for my flock, to be dealt with after I've focused on size and body shape for a couple of years. A few of my javas have what I consider pretty good feather quality but overall in this flock the feathers are looser and narrower than I would like them to be. Plus all of the pullets have some degree of cushion. Previously Bob has mentioned selecting for fast-feathering to help with feather quality. With this batch of chicks I didn't notice any that were particularly fast to feather out. What else can we look for? And how do you get rid of those @#$@ cushions??
This is confusing to me, as I "thought" I'd read on this thread that it was generally agreed upon that SLOW feathering resulted in better quality of feather...so I'm really glad this came up.

My Jersey Giant mentor mentioned to me that this is something I want to pay very close attention to. She has, in her area (PNW), a few longtime breeders and judges who help her to learn these things...I do not in my area, so I look to books, articles, magazines, Poultry Press, etc. to find good information.
 
Yes, please discuss...

1. Slow to feather
2. Quick to feather
3. Tightness of feathering

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Quote:
From page 29 of the SOP: "Early and full feathering is associated with a good relatively broad feather of firm structure..."

From what I understand, slow feathering results in better quality barring on barred rocks in particular. That is a specific color pattern issue, not a feather quality issue.

My understanding is definitely limited, so I'm waiting for those who know much more to respond.

Sarah
 
From page 29 of the SOP:  "Early and full feathering is associated with a good relatively broad feather of firm structure..."

From what I understand, slow feathering results in better quality barring on barred rocks in particular.  That is a specific color pattern issue, not a feather quality issue. 

My understanding is definitely limited, so I'm waiting for those who know much more to respond.

Sarah


I agree with you. I prefer quick maturing birds regardless of breed, because I like dual purpose fowl, so faster development means better meat in a reasonable time and eggs faster as well. I find the chicks that mature quickly and grow fastest are the largest, healthiest and most vigorous as well. Sometimes the slower maturing ones do catch up, but unless your goal is purely ornamental fowl I cannot think of a benefit to breeding from slow developers. (I have no experience with the Barred Plymouth Rock though, closest I got was barred OEG, and feather growth rate did not effect pattern)
 
I agree with you. I prefer quick maturing birds regardless of breed, because I like dual purpose fowl, so faster development means better meat in a reasonable time and eggs faster as well. I find the chicks that mature quickly and grow fastest are the largest, healthiest and most vigorous as well. Sometimes the slower maturing ones do catch up, but unless your goal is purely ornamental fowl I cannot think of a benefit to breeding from slow developers. (I have no experience with the Barred Plymouth Rock though, closest I got was barred OEG, and feather growth rate did not effect pattern)
What are you raising? I can't seem to pull that info from my memory.
 
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It was a general comment. In 20+ years I've bred over 70+ varieties and breeds. Not something in proud of because I never focused like I should. Doing that now, with Langshans, Dorkings and probably Campines as a third breed although that's up in the air.
 
Yes, I know this is old lit and may be obsolete in areas. I was looking for clues on how to get rid of a cushion on the female.
==========================
Standard-bred Plymouth Rocks, barred, white, buff, silver penciled ...
edited by William Charles Denny

article within the book:
Plymouth Rocks Under the Standard of 1910
Changes in Standard Type From 1879 to 1910 Illustrated by Composite Outline Sketches. Lower
Angle of Tail Carriage Recommended and Adopted. Changes That Were Discussed
But Not Approved. Color Descriptions Improved. Comparison of Fashionable
Types of Plymouth Rocks, Wyandottes and Rhode Island Reds
By WlLLlAM C. DENNY
http://tinyurl.com/kduuvcw
Pages 17 thru 19.
"The type for females also continued to gain length and depth in body and the tendency to develop a cushion was eliminated."
Interesting line drawings to illustrate different types of matings to cure breed type problems.
========================
The Plymouth Rock standard and breed book: a complete description of all ...
By American Poultry Association, Arthur Carlton Smith
134 thru 147
http://tinyurl.com/k4mck7j
=============================
So my question is does the statement below show a way to get rid of a cushion?
"The type for females also continued to gain length and depth in body and the tendency to develop a cushion was eliminated."
Or is it just a general statement on the progress of the breed at that time?
Thanks,
Karen
 
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