California - Northern

[Sylvester017]

Glad my Corid info helped! Many don't know this, but I had to do *lots* of research and math on amprolium before I felt comfortable going public with the dosing info. Many people couldn't wrap their heads around the fact that the 1/2 teaspoon powder per gallon dose was wrong, many still can't, lol. The 1/2 teaspoon Corid misinformation is what prompted me to dust off the math skills part of my brain and start calculating proper doses, and to start weighing powders.

Not sure why Corid isn't labeled for poultry, 'cause AmproMed P and Amprol are, and they do have instructions for poultry.

Did you know that most powdered poultry medications weigh 2.5 to 3.3 grams per teaspoon? Silva's, the feed store by me, will sell me powdered medication at cost if the expiration date is near, or they will give me the ones that have expired. So far I've been able to get my hands on Durcmycin 10, Oxytetracycline (10 gram per bag), Corid, LinxMed-SP, and a friend has weighed SulfaMed-G.

As for vets, give them the benefit of the doubt, 'cause they have great resources to draw from, so most dosing info from them will be accurate. If the amount seems way off, talk to them about it and ask why it's different than what you think it should be.

-Kathy

Thx for your input. I didn't mean to put down my vet -- it's just doctors are always in such a rush they gloss over stuff that they assume you already know -- just because I have 4 hens doesn't mean I'm an expert about what's medically needed for them. By the same token he's learned stuff from me too. He wanted me to shove syringe meds down my hens' throats and I had to show him how easy it was to have them drink the meds on their own either from a dropper or out of the palm of the hand. Said he never saw such tame hens! It's not easy to find a vet good with birds that doesn't cost an arm-and-a-leg and I'm lucky he's only 10 minutes away! Oxytetracycline used to be easy to pickup in pet stores decades ago. My feed supply store only caries the minimal basics and sometimes I have to special order just simple vitamin supplements or wormers like Rooster Booster which I would think should be staples on the shelf considering the huge chick and adult sales they do.

 

[jenniferlamar70]

Curious if there is anyone else here from redding california?

 

[Showjumperstar]

Curious if there is anyone else here from redding california?

Is Corning close enough? XD

 

[jenniferlamar70]

Is Corning close enough? XD

Lol that's pretty darn close. I grew up in cottonwood which really isn't that far from corning..

 

[Hangtown Farms]

It has not been tested, and also chickens are extremely sensitive to this particular chemical and it affects them more than other species. It stays in the their system for a really long time.

Another fipronil link:
http://www.toxipedia.org/display/toxipedia/Fipronil

-Kathy

i was just curious as it uses there skin glands and does not go in the blood stream. at least that is how it works on cats and dogs

 

[Honora]

i was just curious as it uses there skin glands and does not go in the blood stream. at least that is how it works on cats and dogs

I read that only 1% is absorbed into the blood stream. I assume it's the same for chickens. I hope, lol.

 

[Minflick]

QUESTION - I have a hatchery black australorp who is insisting on brooding. We are roosterless, so hatching isn't going to happen unless we borrow one (not this year). When I was pulling eggs out from under her yesterday, one of them was a bit dirty and had goop of some kind sticking the shavings and feather bits to it. When I really tilted the hen up and out of the way to check if I'd gotten all the eggs (been lazy about getting them, so they tend to build up...!) I found that she has plucked 2 good size channels on her underside nekkid. Holy smokes! I'm assuming this IS what a broody does, right? I'll keep pulling eggs out from under her, but is there anything I could/should be doing? I'm thinking that next year I'll get fertile eggs from somebody and let her hatch them, but I don't want to do that this year, just got too much going on on the family side. Her topside looks fine, she walks around looking perfectly normal when I hand out treats.

Melinda

 

[Honora]

QUESTION - I have a hatchery black australorp who is insisting on brooding. We are roosterless, so hatching isn't going to happen unless we borrow one (not this year). When I was pulling eggs out from under her yesterday, one of them was a bit dirty and had goop of some kind sticking the shavings and feather bits to it. When I really tilted the hen up and out of the way to check if I'd gotten all the eggs (been lazy about getting them, so they tend to build up...!) I found that she has plucked 2 good size channels on her underside nekkid. Holy smokes! I'm assuming this IS what a broody does, right? I'll keep pulling eggs out from under her, but is there anything I could/should be doing? I'm thinking that next year I'll get fertile eggs from somebody and let her hatch them, but I don't want to do that this year, just got too much going on on the family side. Her topside looks fine, she walks around looking perfectly normal when I hand out treats.

Melinda

Totally normal; that's what broodies do. It helps them keep the eggs warm.
One of my bantam Orpingtons just went broody too. She is sitting way back under a bush & totally impossible to get to. I didn't plan on letting her hatch any eggs but I feel so sorry for her I think I will let her hatch some after all.

 

[ronott1]

QUESTION - I have a hatchery black australorp who is insisting on brooding. We are roosterless, so hatching isn't going to happen unless we borrow one (not this year). When I was pulling eggs out from under her yesterday, one of them was a bit dirty and had goop of some kind sticking the shavings and feather bits to it. When I really tilted the hen up and out of the way to check if I'd gotten all the eggs (been lazy about getting them, so they tend to build up...!) I found that she has plucked 2 good size channels on her underside nekkid. Holy smokes! I'm assuming this IS what a broody does, right? I'll keep pulling eggs out from under her, but is there anything I could/should be doing? I'm thinking that next year I'll get fertile eggs from somebody and let her hatch them, but I don't want to do that this year, just got too much going on on the family side. Her topside looks fine, she walks around looking perfectly normal when I hand out treats.

Melinda

I break them by moving them to the garage and putting them into a cage. It is up off of the ground and has wire for the floor. There is a pan under the wire but it stops them from being broody in about three days.

 

[Minflick]

Ron, I have no garage, and also no cages, other than cat carriers... I'll just let her be then. I was a bit worried about the plucked areas, sparked by the gunky egg (although all the other eggs were clean).

And NEXT year, I'll find eggs from somebody who has another enjoyable color... Since mine vary from pinky beige on up to medium brown.

Thanks for reassuring me, peeps!