Coop too small?

[aart]

Would being too crowded cause sickness too?

It doesn't cause disease, but the stress can make them all more susceptible to succumbing to any disease present.

we are in Minnesota

Would be good to post pics of your 'tractor' for suggestions for coop improvements from others in a harsh winter climate.

Oh, and...
Here's how to add your general geographical location to your profile.
It's easy to do, and then it's always there!

 

[Auntiearielschickens]

Thank you for that info. I will post a pic tomorrow when it's light. Right now the coop is metal. From what I understand it's really just keeping them out of the wind and elements that's a big deal.. would a big metal coop be an issue? I'm also considering a dirt floor since there isn't one now anyway with the deep litter method. Very sandy soil and well draining ground I would then do an apron. I have two dogs but I'm on the edge of town almost country. Would a metal coop/dirt floor be a bad idea?

 

[aart]

Thank you for that info. I will post a pic tomorrow when it's light. Right now the coop is metal. From what I understand it's really just keeping them out of the wind and elements that's a big deal.. would a big metal coop be an issue? I'm also considering a dirt floor since there isn't one now anyway with the deep litter method. Very sandy soil and well draining ground I would then do an apron. I have two dogs but I'm on the edge of town almost country. Would a metal coop/dirt floor be a bad idea?

How big?
Guessing some type of yard shed?
Problem with metal is that it's hard to cut/build windows and ventilation unless you know how and have the tools to work with metal.
Condensation on inner roof and walls can be an issue also.

 

[3KillerBs]

With and 8-10 be too big since their body heat keeps them warm?

Chickens are wearing built-in down parkas.

They readily tolerate cold down to 0F and even below when acclimated. Here are some useful articles for you:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/aarts-extreme-weather-spiel.75893/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/cold-weather-poultry-housing-and-care.72010/

 

[Auntiearielschickens]

Okay here are pics of the current coop. The plan as of now is to take off all the fencing and replace it with the siding. Drop the coop down to the earth have a dirt floor with the deep litter method. I'll have one or two top panels be clear polycarbonate to let in light/ solar heat. I will cut triangles out on either end of the coop for ventilation that are Maybe 1-2 ft in height/ length also the coop even as is isn't "tight" .the sides are not flat so there is airflow throughout. Right now the coop portion doesn't have a floor so poop would drop to the open area. We will make a large run connected to our garden fencing that will give 10sq ft to each bird and then some. And place the coop up to the run. I will install an apron around the coop and the run. The run will be 6 ft tall sides will be hardware cloth and the ceiling will be clear roofing material. I have some extra latice hanging around I was thinking I would do half the run roof in latice and half in poly. To provide a portion of full rain/snow protection and then some sun protection. For roofing will predators climb the fence to get in so latice isn't a good idea? Or is it really just to protect from flying predators? I'd be grateful for any thoughts on the whole plan. With it being October this is top priority to get done ASAP.

 

[Auntiearielschickens]

I'm also considering more polycarbonate than siding on the coop to creat a greenhouse affect for warmth. In Minnesota my hot days are few and far between but my cold days are plentiful. Would having the chickens be visible from the outside be a bad thing?

 

[Ridgerunner]

The magic numbers that everyone mentions are pretty much for a small backyard flock where they are all fully integrated and no more than one boy. It would be a fixed coop and they have reasonable access outside on most days. Even with that set-up, those numbers are overkill for a lot of people, more than they absolutely need. But for some people it's not enough.

Yours is a tractor so you might be able to get by with less room per chicken. It depends on how you manage them. If it stays in one place very long it is not managed like a tractor. Generally you'd need to move it to a new location every day or two. I would not put 15 chickens in that tractor but did you talk to that farmer about how he manages them? If he is moving it twice a day in the summer it might work out.

It will not work in Minnesota in the winter. The ground will be frozen and covered with snow. They will be trapped in that tiny coop section for days on end. That is a recipe for disaster.

With and 8-10 be too big since their body heat keeps them warm?

Your job is not to provide them a warm place to stay. Your job is to provide them a place where they can keep themselves warm. Yes, their body heat keeps them warm, but not by heating up the coop. Their down and feathers trap that body heat. You need to provide them a place that the wind cannot ruffle their feathers so that body heat escapes. If they were free ranging during the day and sleeping in trees or bushes at night they are pretty good at finding places out of the wind. But trapped in our coops and runs they don't have those options, you need to give them an option where they can get out of the wind.

You live in Minnesota, you should know about frostbite. That's the other danger of the cold. If they can stay dry they are not in much real danger of frostbite but if they get damp there is a risk, mainly to combs and wattles. Moisture can come from their breath, their poop, or from their waterer. You need decent ventilation to allow that moisture to escape. The natural inclination is to seal it up tight but that is a mistake. There are different techniques to provide ventilation without allowing a cold wind to hit them but I like having the ventilation openings up high so any winds are over their heads when on the roost or on the floor.

we could enclose the whole thing so that the coop is 8x10 and then make a run for them.

I like the way your husband thinks. In Minnesota in winter you probably need more room than those numbers give. That room could be in the coop or they could include a portion of the run if you can keep it snow free and out of a cold wind. Remember, they don't like a cold wind ruffling their feathers but they can handle cold in a calm area pretty well.

I love that the tractor give them fresh grass but it's definitely not worth it if it's too small. I was leaning this route I just wanted to make sure I wasn't being crazy since that's not what I was told.

It might work depending in how they are managed but it's not working for you now. It certainly will not work this winter. To give them fresh grass next summer you might consider using electric netting to fence in an area that protects them from ground based predators. They are still vulnerable to flying predators but that works for me. This is a good way to use a tractor, move your netting as needed so you don't need to move the tractor as often. If you fence in a large enough area the grass can stay fresh without moving it, they don't wipe it out like they do in a smaller fixed run. If you want to talk detail about electric netting let me know.

If you follow the link in my signature below you can get some of my thoughts on room. Some won't apply to you but some will. I always like to give them as much room as you reasonably can.

Good luck!

 

[Auntiearielschickens]

How big?
Guessing some type of yard shed?
Problem with metal is that it's hard to cut/build windows and ventilation unless you know how and have the tools to work with metal.
Condensation on inner roof and walls can be an issue also.

The total structure is 8x10 and then the run will be 7.5x 30 or so

 

[WIchickMama]

If possible, I would completely cover the run and not have a portion of it open with the lattice. They likely won't go where the snow would come in-limiting their 'space' and when it melts (and if rain comes in) it will create a muddy mess that when mixed with poop will stink unless you have a way to clear the wetness.

Also, I would suggest wrapping the run starting late fall through early spring (I didn't see that mentioned previously if it was I apologize) and leave about 6 inches open all the way around or some other measurement of venting. This will keep the snow out and allow the chickens to come out of the coop through the cold winters, it will also create a nice wind break for them. Helps with the boredom.

 

[3KillerBs]

@Ridgerunner has given EXCELLENT advice.

Don't close up the structure too much. They need to be able to get out of the wind and to roost out of the wind, but ventilation is just as critical in the winter as the summer. Think square feet, not square inches.