Can you still eat the eggs and later the old hens? Jean
Does any one use ivermectin in chickens ?
- Thread starter crazyhen
- Start date
I use 1/2cc for my standards and 1/4cc for my bantams. There isn't enough Ivermectin that gets into the eggs to even be detectable...people just say not to eat them so nobody will try to sue their company.
They're perfectly fine to eat though.
BlacksheepCardigans
Songster
Sure: Here it is as an injectable/oral against worms: http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1439-0450.1989.tb00635.x/abstract
Here it is injected against mites: http://www.sciencedirect.com/science?_ob=ArticleURL&_udi=B6TD7-476MPXM-T1&_user=10&_origUdi=B6TD7-50FGYD7-1&_fmt=high&_coverDate=01/31/1987&_rdoc=1&_orig=article&_origin=article&_zone=related_art&_acct=C000050221&_version=1&_urlVersion=0&_userid=10&md5=b299f2d2910cb5c5091457ff2ef8117a
An interesting one showing that ivermectin DOES show up in eggs after dosing: http://www.euroresidue.nl/ER_IV/Contributions%20I-Z/keukens%20678-682.PDF
Ivermectin is one of the most studied meds out there and several companies use it as a cash cow; they would LOVE IT if it worked in chickens because they would open up a whole new market. The fact that there are no label directions for poultry (and no formulations for poultry) are not because it hasn't been tried but because they think it doesn't work well enough to market it.
There's a great (free) e-book put out by the World Health Organization specifically about poultry parasites, including how to figure out what you're dealing with using tabletop techniques (i.e., what you have around, plus a cheap microscope): http://www.smallstock.info/reference/KVLDK/Poultry_Parasites.pdf ; it (unsurprisingly) tells smallholders to rotate the -zoles and piperazine, which is exactly what most on this board will recommend.
Joanna Kimball
blacksheepcardigans.com
Here it is injected against mites: http://www.sciencedirect.com/science?_ob=ArticleURL&_udi=B6TD7-476MPXM-T1&_user=10&_origUdi=B6TD7-50FGYD7-1&_fmt=high&_coverDate=01/31/1987&_rdoc=1&_orig=article&_origin=article&_zone=related_art&_acct=C000050221&_version=1&_urlVersion=0&_userid=10&md5=b299f2d2910cb5c5091457ff2ef8117a
An interesting one showing that ivermectin DOES show up in eggs after dosing: http://www.euroresidue.nl/ER_IV/Contributions%20I-Z/keukens%20678-682.PDF
Ivermectin is one of the most studied meds out there and several companies use it as a cash cow; they would LOVE IT if it worked in chickens because they would open up a whole new market. The fact that there are no label directions for poultry (and no formulations for poultry) are not because it hasn't been tried but because they think it doesn't work well enough to market it.
There's a great (free) e-book put out by the World Health Organization specifically about poultry parasites, including how to figure out what you're dealing with using tabletop techniques (i.e., what you have around, plus a cheap microscope): http://www.smallstock.info/reference/KVLDK/Poultry_Parasites.pdf ; it (unsurprisingly) tells smallholders to rotate the -zoles and piperazine, which is exactly what most on this board will recommend.
Joanna Kimball
blacksheepcardigans.com
Birds that are kept on the same soil, in a pen or run for example, are more prone to get reinfected. One roundworm can lay thousands of eggs in one day. Birds peck the soil and pick up infective eggs starting the worms lifecycle all over again. Birds that are kept in cages with wire bottoms are rarily worm infected simply because they are off the ground. Free ranging birds get worms too, if their feet touch the ground...they will get worms eventually.
It's always recommended to rotate wormers. I've rotated with valbazen, safeguard, added pyrantal pamote and have used zimectrin gold for tapeworms. These wormers usually have 2 to 3 year expiration dates.
As far as resistance goes, the best example I can think of is antibiotics given to patients by doctors for every nitnoid sneeze or hangnail that they might have. Alot of antibiotics for people are useless because of the indiscriminate administering and use of these drugs. It wasnt until a few years ago they've become aware of human resistance and are cracking down. More recently the Feds are cracking down on too much antibiotics being administered to livestock in commercial operations, maybe you heard about it in the media. I suppose the long term effect is showing itself in humans.
It's always recommended to rotate wormers. I've rotated with valbazen, safeguard, added pyrantal pamote and have used zimectrin gold for tapeworms. These wormers usually have 2 to 3 year expiration dates.
As far as resistance goes, the best example I can think of is antibiotics given to patients by doctors for every nitnoid sneeze or hangnail that they might have. Alot of antibiotics for people are useless because of the indiscriminate administering and use of these drugs. It wasnt until a few years ago they've become aware of human resistance and are cracking down. More recently the Feds are cracking down on too much antibiotics being administered to livestock in commercial operations, maybe you heard about it in the media. I suppose the long term effect is showing itself in humans.
Ive not had hands on experience with hen lice. I looked it up and others use Ivermectin to treat this!
You will have to monitor the hens if you've treated them for lice. I found the following info...
A hen’s first line of defense against lice is to dust bathe. This is when a hen finds a wallow of loose, warm dirt, lies down in it, kicks it about and gets it under her feathers. The dirt kills off the soft-bodied lice by both dessicating and shredding them. Add some food-grade diatomaceous earth (DE) to your flock’s favorite dusting area, and you’ll be sure to kill off the lice. The DE is jagged and lacerates the lice. DE is derived from diatoms – microscopically small water creatures. Be sure to only food-grade DE. Agricultural DE, used to kill slugs, etc, is derived from sea diatoms, is very sharp, and it will shred chicken’s soft tissues if ingested! In the winter when the ground is frozen, and during times of mud and cold, hens can’t dust bathe outside and the louse population explodes. I remedy this situation by half-filling an inexpensive kitty litter tub with coarse builder’s sand and then add a cup of food grade diatomaceous earth (DE) to the mix.
Plastic Sink Bowls
Cat Litter Trays
Put some burnt Ashes in them. I will mix them with diatomaceous earth.
But you will be dowsing the hens with DE to get rid of the red mite anyway.
The only good bug is a dead bug so Kill em all!
From the site you copy and pasted from:
Quote:
None suck blood, so ivermectin will have no effect on them.
-Kathy
Here are the types of lice for you to take a look at with a pic and description of each. Note: Under "Chewing Lice;" scroll down to the 4th paragraph where it states that biting lice do NOT suck blood. They will lap it up if the skin is irritated or from an open wound where blood is present. In this instance, ivermectin would be effective. In most instances this isn't the case because lice feed mainly off dander, scales, feathers making ivermectin worthless unless mites are involved. Lice are 6 legged, mites 8 legged.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ig140
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ig140
While I understand that in our busy lifestyle s we are all looking for a 'quick ' fix. I know of at least 2 people that have overdosed their bantams with ivermectin, with death being the outcome. I'm simply not prepared to take the chance. Yes vets do use ivermectin in dogs and cats but they too have experienced losses.
http://parasitipedia.net/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=2344&Itemid=2996
http://parasitipedia.net/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=2344&Itemid=2996
Interesting stuff I learned about Depluming mites from my poultry vet today. 
I always thought these mites were pretty rare in poultry, but it turns out they are actually quite common. They only seem rare because like other parasites, the birds learn to control Depluming Mites. If the bird is healthy enough, these mites never cause problems and thus are rarely dealt with.
However if the bird is in a weakened state for any reason, these mites can over take the bird and then they do cause issues. Hence, old and birds that have been sick a long time can look pretty ratty.
The Depluming mite lives much of it's entire life inside the feather shafts nearest the skin, consuming the feather from the inside out. They do travel from feather to feather on the skin of the bird, however most of their lives are spent deep within the shaft of the feather. Interestingly enough, they do not lay eggs but bare live mites. They do not crawl around on your roost bar or hide in corners of nest boxes, but are transferred bird to bird through direct physical contact. These mites are very similar to the Leg Scale Mite and are invisible to the naked eye.
As the mites are busy burrowing into the feather shafts and consuming the juices of newly growing feathers, this causes irritation and the bird will over preen and even pluck their own feathers. Each time a new feather grows and is plucked by the bird due to these mites, eventually the feather follicle can become damaged, atrophy and never grow another feather.
If you suspect these Depluming Mites in your flock, you can pluck a couple of feathers near the area you thing this is happening. Take an exacto knife and split the feather right down the middle from top to bottom. If you have a heavy infestation, you should see some hollow places or a completely hollow shaft. Of course not every feather will contain these mites and a small infestation might not be seen this way and would require a microscope.
Ivermectin is the only treatment for this mite since it is not possible to access them from the outer skin with powders or sprays, being that nearly all of them are up in the feather shafts.
Just some fun facts for you Mite Lovers!!
I always thought these mites were pretty rare in poultry, but it turns out they are actually quite common. They only seem rare because like other parasites, the birds learn to control Depluming Mites. If the bird is healthy enough, these mites never cause problems and thus are rarely dealt with.
However if the bird is in a weakened state for any reason, these mites can over take the bird and then they do cause issues. Hence, old and birds that have been sick a long time can look pretty ratty.
The Depluming mite lives much of it's entire life inside the feather shafts nearest the skin, consuming the feather from the inside out. They do travel from feather to feather on the skin of the bird, however most of their lives are spent deep within the shaft of the feather. Interestingly enough, they do not lay eggs but bare live mites. They do not crawl around on your roost bar or hide in corners of nest boxes, but are transferred bird to bird through direct physical contact. These mites are very similar to the Leg Scale Mite and are invisible to the naked eye.
As the mites are busy burrowing into the feather shafts and consuming the juices of newly growing feathers, this causes irritation and the bird will over preen and even pluck their own feathers. Each time a new feather grows and is plucked by the bird due to these mites, eventually the feather follicle can become damaged, atrophy and never grow another feather.
If you suspect these Depluming Mites in your flock, you can pluck a couple of feathers near the area you thing this is happening. Take an exacto knife and split the feather right down the middle from top to bottom. If you have a heavy infestation, you should see some hollow places or a completely hollow shaft. Of course not every feather will contain these mites and a small infestation might not be seen this way and would require a microscope.
Ivermectin is the only treatment for this mite since it is not possible to access them from the outer skin with powders or sprays, being that nearly all of them are up in the feather shafts.
Just some fun facts for you Mite Lovers!!
Chickens love this Verm-X but unfortunately its not a wormer..... sorry xxx
- Apr 11, 2009
- 1,436
- 52
- 171
here is the thing on ivermectin
ivomec kinds
Ivomec 1% is water soluable and injectable, fast
release and needs lowing down going thru the gut. that
is why they use proplene glycol 3 drops to 1 drop of
ivemec 1%.
5% pour on is oil based and only used on shoulder of
the bird in drops. Slow release going into the
body
Something I noticed when comparing labels is that
Ivermectin Pour-On( 5%) kills both sucking & biting lice
whereas Ivermectin Injectable(1%) kills sucking lice but
not biting lice.
The words that people can't eat the eggs after worming is this:
It just means that the eggs can't be used for 10 days
A friend of mine Nathalie Ross gave this infoon using Ivermectin
If you go with Ivermectin injectable, you'll also need to buy propylene glycol to use with the injectable.
By the time you do this, you've spent the same amount of money as the pour on with what I feel isn't the
same level of effectiveness honestly, but some
people have access to injectable and not pour on so it's an option.
For the pour on Ivermectin (not Eprinex) the dosage I
use is as follows:
1 drop - OEGB sized small bantam female
2 drops - OEGB sized small bantam male
3 drops - average bantams
4 drops - large bantams, small commercial fowl
5 drops - most commercial fowl, small giant hens
6 drops - giant breeds of chicken
I always use a 3 cc syringe that I just fill to about
2 cc's with a 20 gauge needle. The needle WON'T be injected into the chicken, but does make it easier to dispense a controlled correct sized drop. It also is easier to get in there between the feathers.
For location, you'll want to find an easy to reach
spot with as little fluff as possible. I've had the
best luck with the back of the neck when I am by myself.
I just pick up the chicken in my left
hand, ruffle around the feathers with my right hand until I find a nice clear spot, then rotate the syringe around to dispense the drops exactly on the skin.
If you hit the fluff, it will soak in before
you can do anything and will be wasted. That stuff soaks in like lightening (which I discovered to my horror when I accidently got about 1 cc of it on me from the bottle - I'm worm free now!)
after giving Ivermectin.
Do the throwing of the eggs away for 10 days and then the medication will be out of the gut of the chickens
But at least you would rid the chickens of the worms which are eating 90% of the chickens daily feed!
they will be better off by getting the Chemical wormer first ( I would give wazine first then in 10 days the ivermectin)
so the chickens body can be rid of the adult round worms and then the other worms from Iermectin
It will cause a less poisonous effect on the gut of the chickens. If not having been wormed before the killing of the round worms is enough for first time then in 19 days worm with Ivermectin
If after worming you want to get what adults are in the gut of the chickens you can put 2% of daily feed by giving DE
The chemical wormer goes into the blood stream and the DE worms by knicking the soft worms skin and they die of dehydration
so the chickens are covered both ways
ivomec kinds
Ivomec 1% is water soluable and injectable, fast
release and needs lowing down going thru the gut. that
is why they use proplene glycol 3 drops to 1 drop of
ivemec 1%.
5% pour on is oil based and only used on shoulder of
the bird in drops. Slow release going into the
body
Something I noticed when comparing labels is that
Ivermectin Pour-On( 5%) kills both sucking & biting lice
whereas Ivermectin Injectable(1%) kills sucking lice but
not biting lice.
The words that people can't eat the eggs after worming is this:
It just means that the eggs can't be used for 10 days
A friend of mine Nathalie Ross gave this infoon using Ivermectin
If you go with Ivermectin injectable, you'll also need to buy propylene glycol to use with the injectable.
By the time you do this, you've spent the same amount of money as the pour on with what I feel isn't the
same level of effectiveness honestly, but some
people have access to injectable and not pour on so it's an option.
For the pour on Ivermectin (not Eprinex) the dosage I
use is as follows:
1 drop - OEGB sized small bantam female
2 drops - OEGB sized small bantam male
3 drops - average bantams
4 drops - large bantams, small commercial fowl
5 drops - most commercial fowl, small giant hens
6 drops - giant breeds of chicken
I always use a 3 cc syringe that I just fill to about
2 cc's with a 20 gauge needle. The needle WON'T be injected into the chicken, but does make it easier to dispense a controlled correct sized drop. It also is easier to get in there between the feathers.
For location, you'll want to find an easy to reach
spot with as little fluff as possible. I've had the
best luck with the back of the neck when I am by myself.
I just pick up the chicken in my left
hand, ruffle around the feathers with my right hand until I find a nice clear spot, then rotate the syringe around to dispense the drops exactly on the skin.
If you hit the fluff, it will soak in before
you can do anything and will be wasted. That stuff soaks in like lightening (which I discovered to my horror when I accidently got about 1 cc of it on me from the bottle - I'm worm free now!)
after giving Ivermectin.
Do the throwing of the eggs away for 10 days and then the medication will be out of the gut of the chickens
But at least you would rid the chickens of the worms which are eating 90% of the chickens daily feed!
they will be better off by getting the Chemical wormer first ( I would give wazine first then in 10 days the ivermectin)
so the chickens body can be rid of the adult round worms and then the other worms from Iermectin
It will cause a less poisonous effect on the gut of the chickens. If not having been wormed before the killing of the round worms is enough for first time then in 19 days worm with Ivermectin
If after worming you want to get what adults are in the gut of the chickens you can put 2% of daily feed by giving DE
The chemical wormer goes into the blood stream and the DE worms by knicking the soft worms skin and they die of dehydration
so the chickens are covered both ways
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