Egg bound, vent gleet, motility problem story

Kbduckmom

Chirping
Jul 3, 2019
65
97
98
I’m sharing my story in hopes that it will help someone else if they have something similar happen. I don’t know the ending yet, but I have some things that I’ve learned along the way that I wish I’d known early on.

Our Khaki Campbell, Goldie started having trouble a little over a month ago. She seemed to be slowing down and spending a lot of time in the pool.
The next day, she was very lethargic and moving slow. I catch her and check her belly and vent. Her vent was covered in a layer of poop that had been stuck on, covering a large area of her bum. I immediately get her in an epsom salt bath. Once she soaked for a while, I checked inside her vent and felt an egg with some sand and bits of egg shell around it.

I called my vet friend to get an idea of what to do. He said to do the soak and get mineral oil inside her and also feed it to her to aid in getting things moving. I followed this process for a few days, but nothing was moving. At one point, I decided to test to see if the egg blocking her vent was already broken. I tapped on it and it broke easily and felt hollow. I broke it up as much as I could to make it easier for her to pass, only to discover another two eggs behind it. The next day one of them had also broken, leaving two broken and one whole egg inside her, none of which could come out.
With much hesitation, I set up a vet appointment. I ride the line between our ducks being pets and being poultry, so this wasn’t easy for me. They did an x-ray on her to confirm that she had a solid egg and two broken eggs inside her. Amazingly, because she wasn’t a certified avian vet, she didn’t charge for her services and wrote it off as an education opportunity. I only paid for the medications used. The vet gave her a shot and prescribed anti-inflammatory meds to hopefully help her body relax enough to pass the eggs. When she didn’t pass them a couple days later, I brought her in for another shot and we set a date for egg extraction if she didn’t pass them on her own.

We waited a few days, continuing with baths and regular care. I attempted at one point to assist Goldie in removing her eggs by having her stand vertical and putting pressure outside her body surrounding the egg. She didn’t like it at all and thrashed during the process. As a result, she got tears on her vent. I felt so bad! I realized there was no way I was going to get the eggs out on my own. I brought her in at our appointment and the vet put her under to extract the eggs. She was unable to without breaking the one blocking the way. I felt so grateful that, again, she wrote off the procedure and only charged me for medication. We were sent home with an anti-inflammatory and an antibiotic. The vet said to make her bedding from blankets or towels to limit dust, which I’ve done, changing out a sheet every day. The other thing the vet recommended was probiotics. If you don’t have your ducks on probiotics, go get them NOW!!! I had no idea how awesome these are. Everyone has improved in our flock from them. The poop doesn’t stink so bad and looks more healthy and solid. Even Goldie seemed to improve from them.
I kept her isolated with limited light. My son said he found an egg in her pen at one point, but I couldn’t confirm it was hers. One of the days, I let her stay out later as she seemed to be improving (big mistake). The next day, she was egg bound. I treated here with a epsom salt bath with no luck. The next morning there were two eggs inside her. I treated her again and checked her in the evening to find that there was a third egg and one of the eggs was broken. I was able to remove the broken egg without injuring her, so I decided to try to do the same to the other two. I was able to get one more, but the third wouldn’t break and it wouldn’t come out. I decided to let her rest, as it had been a traumatic event for her (and me).

Two days later, she was egg bound again with a soft egg that had bypassed the solid one. I popped it and removed it, she was very much relieved about that one and gave me soft nibbles in gratitude.

Two days after that, she still hadn’t passed the solid egg. I used the butt of a spoon to get inside her vent to break and extract the 4 day old egg. It had definitely started to rot. Like all the other times, I made sure to rinse her out with mineral oil and allow her to bathe for a good long while after (a turkey baster is an EXCELLENT tool in getting the mineral oil far enough inside to actually get around the egg). Also, making sure all of the egg shells were out was a big deal. Any that are left can prevent another egg from coming out and cause inflammation or cuts inside the oviduct. Removing the broken pieces carefully is so important to prevent cuts as well.

So far she’s produced 12 eggs in the last month, only being able to pass one on her own (if it was indeed hers). The eggs come to the vent and she struggles for a time, only for her body to give up and draw the egg back in. Through all this, she’s been hating her soak baths, biting me every time I treat her. Each time she has become egg bound I’ve given her a few days before extracting, in hopes that she will pass them on her own. I’ve been treating her for vent gleet through all this as well, applying anti fungal to her vent after each soak. So far, the white callous around her vent seems to be going away, but each time she gets egg bound, she gets tears in her vent, causing a lot of pain. It’s been a month of the same problem happening over and over again. I’ve been considering putting her down so many times and it’s been an emotional rollercoaster. It’s hard to see her go through so much pain, but she’s been energetic enough to give me hope that she can recover.

Through all this, I’ve been considering the hormone implant to stop egg production long enough for her to heal. The vet told me that it may not work for persistent egg producers and is quite costly. Even if it works this year, we may run the risk of her getting egg bound again next year.

I suspect she became egg bound when she was trying to lay a very large egg. My guess is that it wouldn’t pass and her body drew it back in and began to rot. I think it broke inside her, causing the vent gleet infection. So it’s become a compounding problem. I’ve also been worried that bathing her morning and night every day for too long would cause issues with her oil gland, especially when I’ve had to use Dawn dish soap to help clean things. I don’t know if that happens, but I’ve been concerned about it just the same.

Four days ago, I had an epiphany. There IS a natural, safe, and inexpensive way to have a duck stop laying eggs. If she would just go broody! I looked up some information about how to make it happen and found a super helpful article. https://www.tyrantfarms.com/why-and-how-to-make-a-duck-go-broody/
She was already isolated from most of her friends, so adding a few eggs is not such a bad idea. I immediately borrowed some eggs from the other girls and placed them in the duck hospital. I made some fake eggs by blowing out, cleaning, and putting Plaster of Paris in some of our own and traded them out for the real ones. I’ve had to adjust things so she has more light during the day as that helps the process. Knowing that an egg will last at least 4 days in her before breaking (no idea how long it really is), I have also stopped doing the soak baths for a time, allowing her to bathe herself only. The article I read says that touching them too much can engage hormones for producing eggs.

It’s been scary not to treat her as she always gets a layer of poop stuck around her vent. Any time I’ve checked, it hasn’t covered the vent. At this point, I’m truly hoping broodiness works and can be a sustainable way for her to avoid producing eggs, at least for a time. So far, it’s fairly promising as she has been sitting on the nest a lot. She’s definitely not hormonal yet, but I’m hoping it’s not far off. I know right now she has at least one egg inside her that I plan to extract in the next couple days if she doesn’t pass it on her own. I’m waiting to ensure that the broody hormones have time to kick in. I’ll keep updating as the process goes on. Please send good thoughts and prayers for Goldie.

Things I’ve learned:
Probiotics are awesome!
Turkey baster for putting KY jelly or mineral oil in vent
Check your ducks for vent gleet regularly
Have a duck prone to egg binding go broody
4FF4EC90-88FF-4D15-9CE3-718AA64C2D34.jpeg
BB15A10A-8690-4E83-AC50-3CD49924C19A.jpeg
 
The vet didn’t give her a shot of calcium gluconate? Which helps cause contractions and helps her lay? 1 ml daily or a couple times a day till she lays? Boy you 2 have really been through it! A member had one of her Indian Runners get egg bound she took her to an avian vet who gave her the shot of calcium gluconate which started many of us to use it when needed. We don’t do the injections just orally.
 
The vet didn’t give her a shot of calcium gluconate? Which helps cause contractions and helps her lay? 1 ml daily or a couple times a day till she lays? Boy you 2 have really been through it! A member had one of her Indian Runners get egg bound she took her to an avian vet who gave her the shot of calcium gluconate which started many of us to use it when needed. We don’t do the injections just orally.
She didn’t give her a calcium shot. I’ll be sure to ask about that. I’ve been giving her crushed human calcium in her food and offering her oyster shells (which she hates and won’t eat). Whenever we use up eggs, I make sure to give her shells after we dry them out in the toaster. She didn’t go for in the first while, but has become more interested. Usually our girls go nuts for egg shells.
 
I’m sharing my story in hopes that it will help someone else if they have something similar happen. I don’t know the ending yet, but I have some things that I’ve learned along the way that I wish I’d known early on.

Our Khaki Campbell, Goldie started having trouble a little over a month ago. She seemed to be slowing down and spending a lot of time in the pool.
The next day, she was very lethargic and moving slow. I catch her and check her belly and vent. Her vent was covered in a layer of poop that had been stuck on, covering a large area of her bum. I immediately get her in an epsom salt bath. Once she soaked for a while, I checked inside her vent and felt an egg with some sand and bits of egg shell around it.

I called my vet friend to get an idea of what to do. He said to do the soak and get mineral oil inside her and also feed it to her to aid in getting things moving. I followed this process for a few days, but nothing was moving. At one point, I decided to test to see if the egg blocking her vent was already broken. I tapped on it and it broke easily and felt hollow. I broke it up as much as I could to make it easier for her to pass, only to discover another two eggs behind it. The next day one of them had also broken, leaving two broken and one whole egg inside her, none of which could come out.
With much hesitation, I set up a vet appointment. I ride the line between our ducks being pets and being poultry, so this wasn’t easy for me. They did an x-ray on her to confirm that she had a solid egg and two broken eggs inside her. Amazingly, because she wasn’t a certified avian vet, she didn’t charge for her services and wrote it off as an education opportunity. I only paid for the medications used. The vet gave her a shot and prescribed anti-inflammatory meds to hopefully help her body relax enough to pass the eggs. When she didn’t pass them a couple days later, I brought her in for another shot and we set a date for egg extraction if she didn’t pass them on her own.

We waited a few days, continuing with baths and regular care. I attempted at one point to assist Goldie in removing her eggs by having her stand vertical and putting pressure outside her body surrounding the egg. She didn’t like it at all and thrashed during the process. As a result, she got tears on her vent. I felt so bad! I realized there was no way I was going to get the eggs out on my own. I brought her in at our appointment and the vet put her under to extract the eggs. She was unable to without breaking the one blocking the way. I felt so grateful that, again, she wrote off the procedure and only charged me for medication. We were sent home with an anti-inflammatory and an antibiotic. The vet said to make her bedding from blankets or towels to limit dust, which I’ve done, changing out a sheet every day. The other thing the vet recommended was probiotics. If you don’t have your ducks on probiotics, go get them NOW!!! I had no idea how awesome these are. Everyone has improved in our flock from them. The poop doesn’t stink so bad and looks more healthy and solid. Even Goldie seemed to improve from them.
I kept her isolated with limited light. My son said he found an egg in her pen at one point, but I couldn’t confirm it was hers. One of the days, I let her stay out later as she seemed to be improving (big mistake). The next day, she was egg bound. I treated here with a epsom salt bath with no luck. The next morning there were two eggs inside her. I treated her again and checked her in the evening to find that there was a third egg and one of the eggs was broken. I was able to remove the broken egg without injuring her, so I decided to try to do the same to the other two. I was able to get one more, but the third wouldn’t break and it wouldn’t come out. I decided to let her rest, as it had been a traumatic event for her (and me).

Two days later, she was egg bound again with a soft egg that had bypassed the solid one. I popped it and removed it, she was very much relieved about that one and gave me soft nibbles in gratitude.

Two days after that, she still hadn’t passed the solid egg. I used the butt of a spoon to get inside her vent to break and extract the 4 day old egg. It had definitely started to rot. Like all the other times, I made sure to rinse her out with mineral oil and allow her to bathe for a good long while after (a turkey baster is an EXCELLENT tool in getting the mineral oil far enough inside to actually get around the egg). Also, making sure all of the egg shells were out was a big deal. Any that are left can prevent another egg from coming out and cause inflammation or cuts inside the oviduct. Removing the broken pieces carefully is so important to prevent cuts as well.

So far she’s produced 12 eggs in the last month, only being able to pass one on her own (if it was indeed hers). The eggs come to the vent and she struggles for a time, only for her body to give up and draw the egg back in. Through all this, she’s been hating her soak baths, biting me every time I treat her. Each time she has become egg bound I’ve given her a few days before extracting, in hopes that she will pass them on her own. I’ve been treating her for vent gleet through all this as well, applying anti fungal to her vent after each soak. So far, the white callous around her vent seems to be going away, but each time she gets egg bound, she gets tears in her vent, causing a lot of pain. It’s been a month of the same problem happening over and over again. I’ve been considering putting her down so many times and it’s been an emotional rollercoaster. It’s hard to see her go through so much pain, but she’s been energetic enough to give me hope that she can recover.

Through all this, I’ve been considering the hormone implant to stop egg production long enough for her to heal. The vet told me that it may not work for persistent egg producers and is quite costly. Even if it works this year, we may run the risk of her getting egg bound again next year.

I suspect she became egg bound when she was trying to lay a very large egg. My guess is that it wouldn’t pass and her body drew it back in and began to rot. I think it broke inside her, causing the vent gleet infection. So it’s become a compounding problem. I’ve also been worried that bathing her morning and night every day for too long would cause issues with her oil gland, especially when I’ve had to use Dawn dish soap to help clean things. I don’t know if that happens, but I’ve been concerned about it just the same.

Four days ago, I had an epiphany. There IS a natural, safe, and inexpensive way to have a duck stop laying eggs. If she would just go broody! I looked up some information about how to make it happen and found a super helpful article. https://www.tyrantfarms.com/why-and-how-to-make-a-duck-go-broody/
She was already isolated from most of her friends, so adding a few eggs is not such a bad idea. I immediately borrowed some eggs from the other girls and placed them in the duck hospital. I made some fake eggs by blowing out, cleaning, and putting Plaster of Paris in some of our own and traded them out for the real ones. I’ve had to adjust things so she has more light during the day as that helps the process. Knowing that an egg will last at least 4 days in her before breaking (no idea how long it really is), I have also stopped doing the soak baths for a time, allowing her to bathe herself only. The article I read says that touching them too much can engage hormones for producing eggs.

It’s been scary not to treat her as she always gets a layer of poop stuck around her vent. Any time I’ve checked, it hasn’t covered the vent. At this point, I’m truly hoping broodiness works and can be a sustainable way for her to avoid producing eggs, at least for a time. So far, it’s fairly promising as she has been sitting on the nest a lot. She’s definitely not hormonal yet, but I’m hoping it’s not far off. I know right now she has at least one egg inside her that I plan to extract in the next couple days if she doesn’t pass it on her own. I’m waiting to ensure that the broody hormones have time to kick in. I’ll keep updating as the process goes on. Please send good thoughts and prayers for Goldie.

Things I’ve learned:
Probiotics are awesome!
Turkey baster for putting KY jelly or mineral oil in vent
Check your ducks for vent gleet regularly
Have a duck prone to egg binding go broody
View attachment 3483328View attachment 3483329
Just a couple of things I wanted to point out from what I read
It's pretty dangerous to intentionally break an egg inside of the duck, egg shells can be sharp and can cut them inside
Instead of doing this, you may want to try (I know it's been suggested already) giving the hen a dose of calcium. Calcium gluconate is great for this, but after having a lot of problems with my girlie recently, I'd more highly suggest calcium citrate with vitamin D, it's faster absorbed by the body and had worked great for my girl. 600mg tablet

also I see you mention applying pressure to the ducks lower body, I can't really see this helping, it could just increase stress. To help contractions, calcium is pretty good, though.

The past couple weeks have been really challenging for me with one of my ducks, Sprightly. 4 times she had soft shell eggs stuck in her. What I so when I notice symptoms, is firstly get calcium into her. via a treat or syringe. I then get her inside in a warm bath up to her vent, I sit with her and keep a close eye. If the egg doesn't come out, eventually I would try making the room dark to limit stress. The egg should come out, sometimes more calcium and a second bath is needed.

Im in the same boat as you with hoping to induce broodyness
I'm trying to get my girlie to sit on eggs. In the meantime I'm also limiting daylight in an effort to slow or stop laying.
I'll keep a good thought for your Goldie, good luck!
 
Just a couple of things I wanted to point out from what I read
It's pretty dangerous to intentionally break an egg inside of the duck, egg shells can be sharp and can cut them inside
Instead of doing this, you may want to try (I know it's been suggested already) giving the hen a dose of calcium. Calcium gluconate is great for this, but after having a lot of problems with my girlie recently, I'd more highly suggest calcium citrate with vitamin D, it's faster absorbed by the body and had worked great for my girl. 600mg tablet

also I see you mention applying pressure to the ducks lower body, I can't really see this helping, it could just increase stress. To help contractions, calcium is pretty good, though.

The past couple weeks have been really challenging for me with one of my ducks, Sprightly. 4 times she had soft shell eggs stuck in her. What I so when I notice symptoms, is firstly get calcium into her. via a treat or syringe. I then get her inside in a warm bath up to her vent, I sit with her and keep a close eye. If the egg doesn't come out, eventually I would try making the room dark to limit stress. The egg should come out, sometimes more calcium and a second bath is needed.

Im in the same boat as you with hoping to induce broodyness
I'm trying to get my girlie to sit on eggs. In the meantime I'm also limiting daylight in an effort to slow or stop laying.
I'll keep a good thought for your Goldie, good luck!
I appreciate your thoughts. I’ve been feeding her crushed calcium in her food for the last two days. I was only giving her calcium when I treated her for egg binding in hopes of her passing the eggs on her own. I plan to give it to her twice daily for the next few days.

As far as the egg breaking, I have read so much about it being a bad deal, and have hated to do it every time. Each time I have broken them, I have only done so when I have found eggs already broken inside her. I’ve also wanted to get them out before they rot and burst on their own (as I suspect the very first egg did) and cause infection. Just two days ago, I relented after trying to let her pass them on her own and found 4 eggs in her, one was already broken.

Yeah, pressure on the outside, I’m never doing that again. It definitely caused way too much stress.

I’m sticking to the calcium regimen (definitely going to pick up calcium citrate) and I hope it will help. What kind of calcium citrate do you get? Is it a tablet or liquid? The vet told me she suspects the greatest issue is in her reproductive motility, which I’m hoping the calcium will help.

Any time she has had the egg up to her vent she’s pushing so hard that her body shakes. When she was trying to pass the soft shelled egg, she was vomiting all over her pen from the pain. It’s so hard to watch. Once I get her soaking, she relaxes quite a bit, but then her body just gives up and doesn’t even try to get eggs out anymore (even with calcium) and they just build up. I hope the calcium citrate will be more effective.

I hope you have good luck with your girl. It’s no fun for them to go through this. Thanks so much for your ideas!
 
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Update:
We struggled for a while to get things set up so I can disturb Goldie as little and possible for her to go broody. We’ve been mostly hands off with our ducks, so they’re very particular about their space. I’ve got her in the duck house with a small pen area, I’ll add a picture. Before, she had been closed off in the house with limited light to discourage egg production, which wasn’t working as well as I’d hoped.

I extracted 4 eggs again yesterday, two of which were broken, and I could feel that she has one coming down the line. In efforts to create as little irritation or cutting as possible, I do my best to fold the egg shells together and allow the membrane to keep the pieces attached. I always check thoroughly inside her vent to ensure I got all the pieces out. I’m amazed at this point that she hasn’t gotten any other infections and is relatively healthy.

I’ve been giving her calcium (adult human supplements) morning and night every day for the last week. I crush it into her food and monitor to make sure she eats it. I started calcium citrate about 3 days ago morning and night. She definitely acts like she needs it as she doesn’t eat very much food, but makes a point to eat the calcium. Overall, it seems like her oviduct is tighter, which I believe is an improvement, but she’s still unable to pass the eggs on her own.

Broodiness is starting to kick in. Her tail is high and she’s sitting on the nest most of the day, only coming out for short breaks. I let her roam around her larger pen area for about 30-45 minutes morning and night to make sure she gets some foraging and a bath. She still seems reluctant to go back to her house with the nest, so I know broodiness hasn’t fully kicked in.

Questions:
-I had her on anti inflammatory medications when she had her initial vet visit, but I’m inclined to try to find a natural anti inflammatory to just add to her food free choice. Does anyone have ideas?
-The calcium citrate seems to be working well and she seems to like it. I’ve also seen calcium gluconate, but only for injection. Do people offer the gluconate orally? I want to hear from someone who has done it. I’ve read the post about it, but it was never verified that orally medicating is effective/safe.
-Has anyone else encountered a similar problem where, even with all the correct egg binding treatments, their duck just won’t pass the egg? At this point, I’m concerned that she might have long lasting or even permanent damage.

Thank you all for your advice and support! I’m hoping to enable Goldie to live a full life.
image.jpg
 
Update:
We struggled for a while to get things set up so I can disturb Goldie as little and possible for her to go broody. We’ve been mostly hands off with our ducks, so they’re very particular about their space. I’ve got her in the duck house with a small pen area, I’ll add a picture. Before, she had been closed off in the house with limited light to discourage egg production, which wasn’t working as well as I’d hoped.

I extracted 4 eggs again yesterday, two of which were broken, and I could feel that she has one coming down the line. In efforts to create as little irritation or cutting as possible, I do my best to fold the egg shells together and allow the membrane to keep the pieces attached. I always check thoroughly inside her vent to ensure I got all the pieces out. I’m amazed at this point that she hasn’t gotten any other infections and is relatively healthy.

I’ve been giving her calcium (adult human supplements) morning and night every day for the last week. I crush it into her food and monitor to make sure she eats it. I started calcium citrate about 3 days ago morning and night. She definitely acts like she needs it as she doesn’t eat very much food, but makes a point to eat the calcium. Overall, it seems like her oviduct is tighter, which I believe is an improvement, but she’s still unable to pass the eggs on her own.

Broodiness is starting to kick in. Her tail is high and she’s sitting on the nest most of the day, only coming out for short breaks. I let her roam around her larger pen area for about 30-45 minutes morning and night to make sure she gets some foraging and a bath. She still seems reluctant to go back to her house with the nest, so I know broodiness hasn’t fully kicked in.

Questions:
-I had her on anti inflammatory medications when she had her initial vet visit, but I’m inclined to try to find a natural anti inflammatory to just add to her food free choice. Does anyone have ideas?
-The calcium citrate seems to be working well and she seems to like it. I’ve also seen calcium gluconate, but only for injection. Do people offer the gluconate orally? I want to hear from someone who has done it. I’ve read the post about it, but it was never verified that orally medicating is effective/safe.
-Has anyone else encountered a similar problem where, even with all the correct egg binding treatments, their duck just won’t pass the egg? At this point, I’m concerned that she might have long lasting or even permanent damage.

Thank you all for your advice and support! I’m hoping to enable Goldie to live a full life. View attachment 3490427
How frequently is she laying/how frequently are you checking her vent for eggs? Having multiple eggs stuck inside is very unusual
I had this one time with my Sprightly when she was very young, but it was only two soft shell eggs.
Yes, the calcium gluconate is given orally, is this the durvet brand? That brand states injectable but for ducks it's 1ml over a treat given orally.
How much calcium citrate is she getting? 600mg is the dose for egg binding and is what is working daily for my girl
The thing is with putting over the feed is that she won't get the whole dose in one go (unless you mean a treat, not her bowl of food?)

Is it possible for you to ask your vet about hormonal implants? Your girl sounds like she'd really benefit from it. I don't reccomend the injections, as they're expensive and not very effective. But the implant lasts a longer time and I've heard of good success with it. May be worth looking up/talking to your vet about?
 
Update:
We struggled for a while to get things set up so I can disturb Goldie as little and possible for her to go broody. We’ve been mostly hands off with our ducks, so they’re very particular about their space. I’ve got her in the duck house with a small pen area, I’ll add a picture. Before, she had been closed off in the house with limited light to discourage egg production, which wasn’t working as well as I’d hoped.

I extracted 4 eggs again yesterday, two of which were broken, and I could feel that she has one coming down the line. In efforts to create as little irritation or cutting as possible, I do my best to fold the egg shells together and allow the membrane to keep the pieces attached. I always check thoroughly inside her vent to ensure I got all the pieces out. I’m amazed at this point that she hasn’t gotten any other infections and is relatively healthy.

I’ve been giving her calcium (adult human supplements) morning and night every day for the last week. I crush it into her food and monitor to make sure she eats it. I started calcium citrate about 3 days ago morning and night. She definitely acts like she needs it as she doesn’t eat very much food, but makes a point to eat the calcium. Overall, it seems like her oviduct is tighter, which I believe is an improvement, but she’s still unable to pass the eggs on her own.

Broodiness is starting to kick in. Her tail is high and she’s sitting on the nest most of the day, only coming out for short breaks. I let her roam around her larger pen area for about 30-45 minutes morning and night to make sure she gets some foraging and a bath. She still seems reluctant to go back to her house with the nest, so I know broodiness hasn’t fully kicked in.

Questions:
-I had her on anti inflammatory medications when she had her initial vet visit, but I’m inclined to try to find a natural anti inflammatory to just add to her food free choice. Does anyone have ideas?
-The calcium citrate seems to be working well and she seems to like it. I’ve also seen calcium gluconate, but only for injection. Do people offer the gluconate orally? I want to hear from someone who has done it. I’ve read the post about it, but it was never verified that orally medicating is effective/safe.
-Has anyone else encountered a similar problem where, even with all the correct egg binding treatments, their duck just won’t pass the egg? At this point, I’m concerned that she might have long lasting or even permanent damage.

Thank you all for your advice and support! I’m hoping to enable Goldie to live a full life. View attachment 3490427
Here she is on the nest
242BCBED-7CDA-4EC3-8CF6-435F636341CF.jpeg
 
How frequently is she laying/how frequently are you checking her vent for eggs? Having multiple eggs stuck inside is very unusual
I had this one time with my Sprightly when she was very young, but it was only two soft shell eggs.
Yes, the calcium gluconate is given orally, is this the durvet brand? That brand states injectable but for ducks it's 1ml over a treat given orally.
How much calcium citrate is she getting? 600mg is the dose for egg binding and is what is working daily for my girl
The thing is with putting over the feed is that she won't get the whole dose in one go (unless you mean a treat, not her bowl of food?)

Is it possible for you to ask your vet about hormonal implants? Your girl sounds like she'd really benefit from it. I don't reccomend the injections, as they're expensive and not very effective. But the implant lasts a longer time and I've heard of good success with it. May be worth looking up/talking to your vet about?
She’s still producing about one egg per day. I was checking and treating her daily until I decided to let her go broody, so I’m now checking every 4 days.

I have been giving her calcium over her food. She has been rejecting treats since the start of this, so I’ve wanted to get the liquid form so I can ensure she’s getting enough. From what I can see, she always eats all or most of the calcium. I’m giving her the 600 ml of calcium citrate twice daily (morning and night). What treats have you used to give it to your ducks? She’s starting to accept treats again, so I’d like to try. Thanks for clarifying about the durvet calcium gluconate.

I’ve asked about the implant and it’s out of our budget, especially if this is going to be a recurring problem. The vet also said that in persistent layers, it’s not always effective. That’s why I was so glad about the possibility of making her go broody.
 

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