Framing. What is supporting the nesting boxes?? and Nails vs. Screws

[There A Chick]

Coop building time again. I had help the first time but this time I'm on my own.

Question # 1: When I see these coop designs with nesting boxes that you access from outside the coop by lifting up a lid, what do you do framing wise to support the nesting box? I'm not getting that.

Even the pictures people post here, I've looked at for hours and hours now and I can really see enough to figure out how to build it, I need it really broken down into the simplest detail.

Question #2: The first time around we used nails because my boss had an air nailer. Now I don't have that. Can you tell I miss my boss (and his air nailer?)

Can I just frame with screws and use my drill? If so, what kind of screws should I get?

Thanks in advance.

 

[chookchick]

Okay I'll tell you my solutions---
For the nesting box, I made a box that site half in and half out, and I love it! I just made a 40" by 12" box, @ 12" high, and set it on a 2 by 4 that runs between and on the wall studs. So if you have stick framing, cut a hole, and run a 2 by 4 across to the studs. Then make a box and screw the sides and bottom into the framing. The box is constructed of plywood screwed together with 2 by 2s in the corners. And add a lid that is hinged to the outside. Someday soon I will get pics loaded, make a BYC page, and all this will be obvious, hopefully....

I don't have a nail gun, I used a power drill with STAR drive screws instead of regular phillips head screws--I love these!! I manage to strip out a good number of regular screws, but these are awesome! For framing though, you really should have a nail gun...I borrowed a carpenter for that...

 

[There A Chick]

ok, thanks for the info. much appreciated!

 

[woodenart]

All our nest boxes are screwed, but we first drill a pilot hole to stop the wood from splitting.

Mark.

 

[Chicken Rustler]

Keep in mind that as wood works from outside forces on it, it can reject nails but can't reject screws. I also prefer not to use standard phillips. I use square drive, have not tried the star drive just because I am all set up for square.

 

[Sir Birdaholic]

As a woodworker, I swear by square drive!

 

[jafo]

I built our nest box(s) first, THEN I attatched them to the coop. Just a basic box type frame, used 2x3 lumber, and 1/2 inch plywood. using 2" sheetrock skrews. Front of the frame was 48" long x 16 "high. Then I built another rectangle frame 48 x 14, for the back wall, that gives 2" of slope to the roof. Then I just connected the two together at the four corners, THEN I cut 2 dividers and slid them in to create individual boxes 16x14 inches each. Then covered the 5 sides with plywood. (top,bottom, back and 2 sides). I went in the coop, and cut the openings for each box, 1.5 inches SMALLER than the openings on the "crate". I put two skrews through the bottom of the openings to hold the bottom of the crate, while I went inside, pulled the nestboxes up tight to the coop, and put about a dozen skrews through the coop into the front frame of the nestboxes. Done. I wiegh a tad 'er two over 200, and I could stand on it, while I did the roof, so it won't be coming off anytime too soon. Hope this helps. We collect the eggs from inside, but it would be a cinch to put a hinged roof on if we wanted.

 

[bigoakhunter]

Here is my mobile coop being framed in. I have circled where the external nest boxes go. You just frame in the size for your nestboxes to fit in. One hepful hint is to use 2x6 board to frame the bottom and top ledge. Make it flush on inside and stick out the extra on outside. This gives your nestboxes more stability. ( it rests on a larger edge) And does not effect the interior of coop. I screwed mine in place.

Hope this helps.

Dave

 

[gsim]

#2 or #3 Sq drive screws for me every time. Nails for framing every time for speed, and sheathing will hold framing together anyway so I glue and shoot #8d nails for sheathing for speed's sake.

Frame the wall with a rectangle where you want the box to be and compensate for that opening with a double header and doubled studs on each side too as you would for any opening. Then build your box and slide it into place. Figure on a sloping lid for shedding water. Steep like 1:1 if for snow too. Do not omit flexible flashing for hinge area. Rubber sheeting that is sold at home improvement stores works well and so do old innertubes. Alternative is an overhanging roof to protect the egg door and it can be extended enough to protect you too in the event of rain. Guttering is mandatory unless you live in the desert.

Take short puffs, have fun, work safely.

If something is bothering you concerning your design or execution, and you cannot put your finger on it just then, quit for the day if necessary. It is likely to come to you when you are away from the project.

 

[There A Chick]

Thank you so much you guys! And Dave, yes, thank you for the picture, it helps TREMENDOUSLY!

You guys Rock!