Guinea talk.

[Gdog Bossman]

HortHorr pic .But nest boxes under roost platform, still need a roof and frame the door

 

[R2elk]

View attachment 1434763

If you plan on keeping the keets in that, they will walk right through the fencing. If you are planning on keeping adult guineas in there, it is not even close to being big enough for them. Ten adult guineas need a minimum of 40 sq. ft. of coop space and that does not include the area required for a feeder or waterer if you intend to put that in the coop. Guineas like to roost high so the coop should be a tall structure with roost available.

 

[GlennLee]

Hi all,
This week I will be getting 10 keets in the mail .I have a small dog pen for their first weeks, and started a small coop. Pic below. Any words of wisdom for a rookie? I know I need a lot of work on the coop still, but will basic design work?
Thanks, .Glenn

Welcome to the thread @Gdog Bossman Words of wisdom? The best I've heard is "You don't own guineas, they own you." With that in mind, be ready for a plan B, C, D and E, when it comes to guineas.

I start mine out in a large dog crate lined with cardboard to keep them in (they can get through very small openings at first) and to keep drafts out. I used an additional heat source for the first 6 weeks and in general keep the heat at 95 the first week, 90 the second, 85 the third... keep going down by 5 degrees until you get to 70 in the 6th week. After that, provide an additional heat source if temps are below 60. I usually just watch them - if they huddle together, they are cold, if that scatter to the outsides of the brooder and aren't going to their food and water source, they are hot.

Keep them dry, dry, dry. Their excrement will be wet and their bedding will need to be changed regularly. I use a bath towel and change it out daily for the first few weeks until I know they are eating, drinking and pooping regularly. Then I switch over to a combination of wood chips and PDZ pine pellets. Some here use sand - watch pine needles. They will try to eat them and it will get stuck.

Food and water - I put a probiotic and electrolytes in their water during this time and add a layer of shiny flat floral marbles to the base of the water for the first few weeks to encourage them to peck and find the water and keep them from drowning. I also use an additive when it's really hot and nutra-drench if they are sick or if it's really cold. I have found it actually keeps the water from freezing as quickly too. It has molasses in it. I get 28% protein gamebird starter for food. They need a high protein content to start with. Then I go down to the grower which is about 24% protein and since I have chickens, for the adults I usually just do a mix of about 16% protein and boost it with 20-24 % meatbird or grower for additional protein.

Those are the biggies that come to mind to get you started. As far as a coop size, the recommendation is 3 square feet per bird. I find that works during the summer if I am free ranging and they just come in to roost. If you think about it, it's just enough room for them to stand and turn around. When winter comes, I find that mine do best when given more that double that amount. I have different levels in the coop and places for them to hide. They can get pretty aggressive with one another, if the Rhode Island Reds don't beat them to it!

Hope this helps with some starting thoughts and you should get others to chime in. Good luck and check out some of the other sites for ideas on BYC.

 

[Gdog Bossman]

If you plan on keeping the keets in that, they will walk right through the fencing. If you are planning on keeping adult guineas in there, it is not even close to being big enough for them. Ten adult guineas need a minimum of 40 sq. ft. of coop space and that does not include the area required for a feeder or waterer if you intend to put that in the coop. Guineas like to roost high so the coop should be a tall structure with roost available.

Thanks, I need these good pointers . This was all the wood I have, my property burned to the ground last summer .When the keets get bigger I hope to let them free range during the day .
I will get a fine mesh for the bottom 3 feet before I put the little fellars in. It will be 8 feet tall with the roof, and I'll add more roosts.
If you think of anything else that I need, please share
Thanks again,
Glenn

 

[Gdog Bossman]

Welcome to the thread @Gdog Bossman Words of wisdom? The best I've heard is "You don't own guineas, they own you." With that in mind, be ready for a plan B, C, D and E, when it comes to guineas.

I start mine out in a large dog crate lined with cardboard to keep them in (they can get through very small openings at first) and to keep drafts out. I used an additional heat source for the first 6 weeks and in general keep the heat at 95 the first week, 90 the second, 85 the third... keep going down by 5 degrees until you get to 70 in the 6th week. After that, provide an additional heat source if temps are below 60. I usually just watch them - if they huddle together, they are cold, if that scatter to the outsides of the brooder and aren't going to their food and water source, they are hot.

Keep them dry, dry, dry. Their excrement will be wet and their bedding will need to be changed regularly. I use a bath towel and change it out daily for the first few weeks until I know they are eating, drinking and pooping regularly. Then I switch over to a combination of wood chips and PDZ pine pellets. Some here use sand - watch pine needles. They will try to eat them and it will get stuck.

Food and water - I put a probiotic and electrolytes in their water during this time and add a layer of shiny flat floral marbles to the base of the water for the first few weeks to encourage them to peck and find the water and keep them from drowning. I also use an additive when it's really hot and nutra-drench if they are sick or if it's really cold. I have found it actually keeps the water from freezing as quickly too. It has molasses in it. I get 28% protein gamebird starter for food. They need a high protein content to start with. Then I go down to the grower which is about 24% protein and since I have chickens, for the adults I usually just do a mix of about 16% protein and boost it with 20-24 % meatbird or grower for additional protein.

Those are the biggies that come to mind to get you started. As far as a coop size, the recommendation is 3 square feet per bird. I find that works during the summer if I am free ranging and they just come in to roost. If you think about it, it's just enough room for them to stand and turn around. When winter comes, I find that mine do best when given more that double that amount. I have different levels in the coop and places for them to hide. They can get pretty aggressive with one another, if the Rhode Island Reds don't beat them to it!

Hope this helps with some starting thoughts and you should get others to chime in. Good luck and check out some of the other sites for ideas on BYC.

Thanks Rhonda!
I will definitely use your suggestions. And I will probably be back asking more.
This is a new adventure for me, I hope I don't kill them .

 

[GlennLee]

Thanks Rhonda!
I will definitely use your suggestions. And I will probably be back asking more.
This is a new adventure for me, I hope I don't kill them .

Oh, I think you'll do fine. They are pretty resilient and once you get the basics down, you just ride the ride - like a roller coaster! It takes a while to get them to a full free ranging flock, but once they are there, it's an amazing thing to watch. Their social structure is very strong.

Mine make the daily rounds in the neighborhood and always come home to roost - unless they have met their demise with a predator. Another story for another day.

So sorry to hear about your house burning down. I can't even imagine how difficult that would be to go through. Good luck on rebuilding your life. I'm sure it takes a lot of time.... and not just physical things.

 

[JeffreyH]

Well, we have had some guinea excitement here. About a month ago, Sweetie Pie went broody on what I thought was about 6 eggs. Since broody hens in the barn get priority, I shooed everyone out and left her alone to hatch. Gee, was I surprised when she finally finished and there were 14 keets under her. She is such a good mama and I have @guineapeeps to thank for the support and information about how to guinea hens to brood in a safe place.View attachment 1431916

where is this message from @guineapeeps?

 

[GlennLee]

where is this message from @guineapeeps?

It's buried in this thread. Maybe a year ago....

 

[Dmontgomery]

As most of you know, this is our first set of keets after trying for 2 years. It is amazing how much faster they mature than chickens. At just over 2 weeks old they would leave their parents behind and run to me if I walked out in the yard. Now at 3 weeks they are perfectly happy to perch up on the railing while their parents are out scratching around. They are already very spoiled and have us well trained.
We have 8 chicks, hatched within just a couple days of these keets, who literally scream if their moms are not right next to them.

 

[GlennLee]

View attachment 1438425
As most of you know, this is our first set of keets after trying for 2 years. It is amazing how much faster they mature than chickens. At just over 2 weeks old they would leave their parents behind and run to me if I walked out in the yard. Now at 3 weeks they are perfectly happy to perch up on the railing while their parents are out scratching around. They are already very spoiled and have us well trained.
We have 8 chicks, hatched within just a couple days of these keets, who literally scream if their moms are not right next to them.

That is just the best pic ever. I feel like we should send you keet birthing gifts or throw a shower. How adorable that they are following you around and are comfortable enough to perch on the railing without mom and dad hanging around. You guys rock as guinea parents! Of course, they have you trained... we are owned by our guineas. Ha! Enjoy!