HELP DAY 21 AND NO HATCHING!

BYounce

In the Brooder
Mar 30, 2015
15
1
26
Wrangell, Alaska
Hello all, this is my first go round and today marks the 21st day. No movement that I can tell and no pipping marks either. My humidity is a steady 75 with a temp. of 99.5 ( forced air bator). I thought I saw 3 of my eggs rock but wasn't sure if it was wishful thinking or actual rocking. Can anyone help me, how long do I wait?
Thanks in Advance.
Billie in Alaska
 
Hello all, this is my first go round and today marks the 21st day. No movement that I can tell and no pipping marks either. My humidity is a steady 75 with a temp. of 99.5 ( forced air bator). I thought I saw 3 of my eggs rock but wasn't sure if it was wishful thinking or actual rocking. Can anyone help me, how long do I wait?
Thanks in Advance.
Billie in Alaska
Not sure if this could cause your problem, your humidity may be too high, should be 60% (or is it different with forced air?). Chicks sometimes can pip late. You'd better candle them, see if they're moving at all.
 
I'd just sit tight. Don't open it. Shrink wrapping is a terrible thing.

If they're late, likely the temperature was low.
If they don't hatch at all, it could be lots of things.

Having a guaranteed accurate thermometer is a must. (preferably 2)

I go for 70% at hatching and 45% the rest of the time.
 
Hold the eggs up to a good light source and see if anything is in there and moving. I used to do that all the time with my Cockatiels and African greys. if nothing moving or if there is no shadow at all they are duds or the chicks are not alive :(. If they are moving and there is a shadow. then they just might be late peepers :). Good luck keep us posted :D
 
Thank you, I do have 2 thermometers in my bator (one is digital and one is a mercury one) both seem to be fair consistent. Boy it is just so hard to do the wait and watching .
bow.gif
 
I'd just sit tight. Don't open it. Shrink wrapping is a terrible thing.

If they're late, likely the temperature was low.
If they don't hatch at all, it could be lots of things.

Having a guaranteed accurate thermometer is a must. (preferably 2)

I go for 70% at hatching and 45% the rest of the time.

xs 2 I shoot for 70-75% at hatch time and often it shoots up when they are hatching. (I use 30%-35% first 17 days).
Will candling them harm them since they are suppose to be on lock down? I can lower the humidity as well.

I would advise NOT to lower humidity. (Especially if you are going to open the bator for ANYTHING.) I would wait until the end of day 22 to candle personally.
Thank you, I do have 2 thermometers in my bator (one is digital and one is a mercury one) both seem to be fair consistent. Boy it is just so hard to do the wait and watching .
bow.gif
Oh yes.....it is torture!!!
 
Not sure if this could cause your problem, your humidity may be too high, should be 60% (or is it different with forced air?). Chicks sometimes can pip late. You'd better candle them, see if they're moving at all.
It's not different with forced air, it's a matter of finding what works for you, your bator and considering your habits. The actual recommended humidity is 65%. People with a strict hands off philosophy can get away with a bit less. If you are not hands off chances are you need more. However the differences in bators will make a difference too. I use a styro bator and run 75% with no trace of condensation, (I'm a meddler), another member was trying to get her humidity to 75% and she was incubating in a smaller DIY cooler bator-she got it to 75%, but it looked like a rain forest in there. She needed less as condensation is not what you want at hatch.
 
That's right. If they failed, you can't do anything about it anyway. If they've pipped internally and you open the incubator you will certainly create problems.
 

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