How the Heck do You Get this Thing OPEN?!?

[Judy Todd]

Really dumb question, but any tips or tricks on getting this type of waterer open? I love the way I can fill it and then remove the little cap, but I have to tighten it SO TIGHT if I don't want it to overflow, that when it comes time to change the water it makes my hands ache fr the whole day afterwards!
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Yes, same problem, esp. when it is cold. Put veg oil on threads, use garden gloves to help with the grip. Helps to put a tiny cap full of bleach to keep the water and spout clean too. i admit I have had to use a screwdriver and hammer at times, but these tips have helped.

 

[Judy Todd]

Mine if I don’t tighten the black top very tight the lack of suction makes the waterer constantly overflow or drain to half full immediately

She is right, if you donot tighten the cap, you do not set up the flow , so it fills only when needed. I have had 4 of these, they all work on the same priciple.

 

[Judy Todd]

Omg yes, did not think of this!

Yes, I use a very big screwdriver, like I said before

 

[sandburRanch]

Once open , leave the valve open to fill . Cork it to fill and remove cork to operate as intended .

 

[Borders3]

I just have a washing up bowl full of water raised on blocks, find it works well for me.

 

[DLA]

Really dumb question, but any tips or tricks on getting this type of waterer open? I love the way I can fill it and then remove the little cap, but I have to tighten it SO TIGHT if I don't want it to overflow, that when it comes time to change the water it makes my hands ache fr the whole day afterwards!
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I have the exact same waterer except the 3 gallon version. put a foot on either side of the red bottom to brace it (don't stand on the red part but it's pretty sturdy, you can put enough weight on to brace it. Then use both hands to turn the handle, a sturdy stick thru the handle also helps you get leverage. You should check the top and make sure there isn't something amiss and it's seating properly. Sometimes I have to give a few tries to get it on just straight before I tighten. You do have to give it a few turns and it can be a bit tight but you shouldn't have to tighten it till it's virtually impossible to open to create the vacuum so it doesn't leak. I have arthritis and i'm still able to get mine open without to much trouble doing the above.

 

[Swivelhip]

Vegetable oil or vaseline the smooth inside surface at the top of the black cap. I removed the o-ring and rapped thread tape in the groove where the o-ring goes ( makes the o-ring stick out and seal a little better) and then reinstalled the o-ring. I can take it on and off with two fingers. Usually screw it on and then back it off just a little to get it to seal good. The little cap is just put on the bottom to fill and transport, then it is taken off and mine has a threaded spot at the top of the bottle to “store” the cap.

 

[chickyturkeyemulady]

I've been using these for decades, so have lots of experience with them.
You shouldn't have to tighten it that much unless the o-ring is damaged. After filling, tighten it to a reasonable degree, then remove the lower black cap. Once the bottom pan fills listen closely to hear whether there is air leaking in - it may make a squeaking or hissing type noise (and the water will continue to flow out after the pan is filled). If you hear noise, tighten it slightly, just a little at a time until the noise stops - that is tight enough.
If you've been tightening it repeatedly until you can't get it open, the o-ring may be damaged/crushed and need to be replaced, in which case you'll need to purchase a replacement o-ring from wherever you got the waterer. I find with proper use they need replacing about every 5-10 years. It ranges from mid 20's to 100 plus where I live. If you deal with greater extremes that might influence the longevity of your o-rings.

 

[chickyturkeyemulady]

I have the exact same waterer except the 3 gallon version. put a foot on either side of the red bottom to brace it (don't stand on the red part but it's pretty sturdy, you can put enough weight on to brace it. Then use both hands to turn the handle, a sturdy stick thru the handle also helps you get leverage. You should check the top and make sure there isn't something amiss and it's seating properly. Sometimes I have to give a few tries to get it on just straight before I tighten. You do have to give it a few turns and it can be a bit tight but you shouldn't have to tighten it till it's virtually impossible to open to create the vacuum so it doesn't leak. I have arthritis and i'm still able to get mine open without to much trouble doing the above.

I have 3, 5 and 7 gallon versions. I grip the 'bottle' with my knees then use both hands to turn the top.

 

[Nodakj]

AGREED! I have only one of the plastic waterers, but plan on getting more as soon as the remaining two of my metal waterers give out.

These things ^^^ have proven to be a pain. They LOOK durable and long-lasting, but they are not. They are prone to leaks, I don't care how carefully you handle them. With the first two that gave out, it was because I ignored instructions to never lift it by the handle on the lid. They sprung leaks before they were a year old. The third one was handled better, but the bottom rusted out in several places. I patched it, but then the little peg rusted out too (and left another hole). The fourth one (smaller size) is on its last legs and I'm being extremely careful with it, except a bit of the lid that fits under the peg has broken off and I have to be very sure the lid is fitted down all the way. It sits on a concrete block to protect from rust. The newest one I have (bigger one) is also on blocks, it sits near the water hose so I never have to lift it (but if I do, it's by the internal handle only). The only issue I'm having is the tight fit and suction; I struggle to pull the lid off (and therefore, violating instructions to never lift it by the outer handle! ugh). And despite sitting on a heater base, the upper halves still freeze together so I can't get the dang lid off.

I'm done buying the metal ones and going back to plastic, and/or setting up nipple waterers with bucket heaters.

These ^^^ have other issues, too - besides struggling to get the lid off. It's not easy to get my hand inside to clean it out, and algae tends to build up if I don't keep the water treated. And the plastic base is FRAGILE and prone to splitting if handled roughly. Do NOT tap the base against the ground or another object to loosen ice. At least new parts (base, lids, O-rings, caps) are available to order so you don't have to replace the whole thing. It's easy to lift and move, and won't rust. Despite warnings to not use plastic waterers on a heater base, it works just fine for me.

I believe you can make these metal ones rust faster by having them in contact with concrete. I put mine on wood blocks. But then mine is fairly new yet. I had a bil who worked in concrete and told me not have metal in direct contact with it.