Agree you need more ventilation, but perhaps a roof vent would be more to the landlady’s style. She is already ok with you putting in a wall vent (if I read that correctly), so adding a roof vent might be ok to her. There are various styles of roof vents, so investigate some to see what would work with your style roof. Even if you can’t achieve the desired 8 sq ft of ventilation, any additional ventilation will help. Just keep working towards getting the humidity inside the coop similar to outside the coop.

I have not yet had time to speak with the landlady. I will approach her about vents soon though.

vaseline: mixed thoughts on BYC with believers and non-believers.

I tried on some Vaseline last night on my chickens, and when I came in today all my birds save for the two EEs and one Legbar hen had frostbite. The temperature inside the coop showed -2°C & 78% humidity; both numbers which my chickens and even my CCL rooster had survived with intact combs several nights in a row before. The Vaseline which I had hoped would protect my birds from frostbite seems to have made things worse by moisturizing the combs further than they already were, so I will not use it again on my chickens, ever. My saving grace is that I so afraid of doing an inexperienced, capital mistake that I only put on a thin layer on each bird, so the frostbite didn't go deep into the combs. The surface flesh is greyed instead of purple or black, and does not look swollen; I believe the affected spots will scab and peel off without taking any spikes or wattle with them. I've learned my lesson though; no Vaseline for me and my humid climate @x@

Here's the pictures of the outside coop:

IMG_1601.JPG

That's the whole shed. The coop is to the right, where lies the frosted window. The drawn duck & flowers on the door is landlady's doing; she's an artist.

IMG_1603.JPG

Opened the shed door to show the coop door. The coop door is brown on the outside, and painted green on the inside. It's got some stapled and glued a piece of scrap pool liner to keep the bedding inside the coop. The pool liner is new; in previous years it was not there, and boy was it a mess on the floor whenever I checked on my chickens.

IMG_1602.JPG

The main focus of my family's attention since the late spring of 2018. When a buzzard ate one of my Warrens in late fall of 2017, I looked for ways to fortify the run, and built this with some family members who were happy to lend a hand. Landlady had an open-air run caged all around with a layer of metal fence and chicken hardware warped around dead trees and dug underground; I decided to build a 8' x 16' closed run inside that with a solid roof that would hopefully not buckle under a thick layer of ice and snow. That thing withstood the hellish winter of 2018-2019 where mother nature ultimately dumped close to fourteen feet of snow on our heads for the season, so I call it a success that it's still standing (of course, the snow was regularly shoveled down, but the roof did at one point have close to two feet of snow on it). I'm sorry to say I have no plans to share on BYC for those interested in maybe building a similar structure; this is hand-made to fit landlady's shed. She'd built a second mini-building beside the shed for a pony she once had, so we had to connect the shed, the horse shed and the closed run all together under two roofs. Tinkering around that took the entire summer. The run and connecting roof are covered by plastic sheets and three tarpaulins to keep the harsh winds at bay. Note the wood shims firmly screwed into the facing plastic sheet and tarpaulin; this is to keep storm gales from tearing up the sheets during a blizzard. The Tarpaulin also keeps the accumulating ice and snow from spilling into the run and damaging its hardware cloth - I hadn't yet come across BYC threads that said to not use chicken wire, so that's what it's currently covered with u_u Said Tarpaulin is hung on hooks that, in the summer, host a net that covers the entire open-air run and keeps flying predators at bay. I lost no chicks this summer.

The open-air run was tinkered with this year; the height of the hardware cloth was raised to keep hens from potentially flying over the fence to go free range, since we have foxes and raccoons prowling around at dusk, and buzzards on the lookout from trees. Pardon the poor-looking door; it's next on a long list of updates to do on this chicken coop.

I couldn't get a picture of the inside of the closed run. The handle of the door that links the coop to the run broke in my hand, so that, too, needs fixing. The window had too much frost to allow me to take a shot from within the coop.

Did I miss some reason that you can't put the water bucket outside? They don't need water at night...

The water bucket is taken out of the coop every evening to avoid a rise in humidity during the night, no worries. I've never taken the water bucket outside in the run during winter before, as I had no protected run or ways to keep the water warm then. In summer time I change all water buckets for DIY water bottles with poultry nipples, to keep the water clean and fresh. The coop usually has four of these bottles; two inside the coop itself and two outside in the run.

@aart - yes, I've had a successfully protected run since this fall. Last year we hadn't had time to cover the roofed run before snow & rain rolled in and iced it over, but this time we beat mother nature at the clock so we're good to go ^^
 
Hi all I read through the thread. Hopefully none of my babies have frostbite but it’s been extremely cold the past few days and I want to plan ahead. I’m going to check for frostbite today when I get home. I’ve read through some other threads as well and it seems that the combs heal very well even if they do get frost bite. My bigger concern is the feet!
Is there a way to prevent it there and also how would this happen?
Would it be mostly from the chickens having nowhere to stand that isn’t icy or cold? I do have the coops open for them to go in during the day the chickens usually go into the duck coop. I have straw scattered in certain places and under the chicken coop. No water is ever in the coop. I’ve only thing I’m wondering is if I should crack the windows in my chicken coop because I have them closed.
 

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Hi all I read through the thread. Hopefully none of my babies have frostbite but it’s been extremely cold the past few days and I want to plan ahead. I’m going to check for frostbite today when I get home. I’ve read through some other threads as well and it seems that the combs heal very well even if they do get frost bite. My bigger concern is the feet!
Is there a way to prevent it there and also how would this happen?
Would it be mostly from the chickens having nowhere to stand that isn’t icy or cold? I do have the coops open for them to go in during the day the chickens usually go into the duck coop. I have straw scattered in certain places and under the chicken coop. No water is ever in the coop. I’ve only thing I’m wondering is if I should crack the windows in my chicken coop because I have them closed.

your chickens can go inside a draft free area and get on roosts and walk around on dry ground, so they will be fine. Do not open the windows if it will allow a draft on your birds since it is so cold. But if you only have ventilation through the windows, then that would be necessary to open them, but you would want to apply baffles to keep direct air off the birds.
 
Hi all I read through the thread. Hopefully none of my babies have frostbite but it’s been extremely cold the past few days and I want to plan ahead. I’m going to check for frostbite today when I get home. I’ve read through some other threads as well and it seems that the combs heal very well even if they do get frost bite. My bigger concern is the feet!
Is there a way to prevent it there and also how would this happen?
Would it be mostly from the chickens having nowhere to stand that isn’t icy or cold? I do have the coops open for them to go in during the day the chickens usually go into the duck coop. I have straw scattered in certain places and under the chicken coop. No water is ever in the coop. I’ve only thing I’m wondering is if I should crack the windows in my chicken coop because I have them closed.

I can't speak from experience as that's never happened to me, but some people do take steps to ensure their chickens don't get foot frost.

- A few threads on BYC tell about chickens who prefer flat perches over round branches to roost on. The toes do not curl during sleep, and that keeps the blood flowing unimpeded to warm the extremities during wintertime. There's also the bonus of the entire foot being covered by the chicken's feathers when on a flat perch, contrary to round perches where the toes must curl over the roost to grip the wood and thus, leave the warm breast of the bird. I'm trying out 2 x 3 & 2 x 4 grey-taped roosting perches on my birds, and both winter and summer breeds (I have a Welsumer in the lot) are currently doing fine in my non-heated coop at temps ranging from -1°C to -5°C with 72%-80% humidity (and no ventilation).

- A few farmers I've met around the city believe in favoring feather-footed chickens over bare-legged ones, as the feathers give their foot some insulation. Whether that is true or not, is unknown. Watch out for scaly leg mites though; feather-footed chickens are prone to those.

Ditto with Acre4Me on the cracked window. Open it for ventilation, but not for drafts. And shield against the latter if you need air for the former.

Hopefully this will help you somewhat! Good luck with your chickens!
 
A few farmers I've met around the city believe in favoring feather-footed chickens over bare-legged ones, as the feathers give their foot some insulation. Whether that is true or not, is unknown. Watch out for scaly leg mites though; feather-footed chickens are prone to those.

the problem with feathered feet is that if they get wet, they’ll stay wet. If it’s cold enough, those feathers could freeze, leaving the hen just as (if not more) cold than a non feathered footed hen. I don’t think it makes much of a major difference either way though.
 
- A few threads on BYC tell about chickens who prefer flat perches over round branches to roost on. The toes do not curl during sleep, and that keeps the blood flowing unimpeded to warm the extremities during wintertime. There's also the bonus of the entire foot being covered by the chicken's feathers when on a flat perch, contrary to round perches where the toes must curl over the roost to grip the wood and thus, leave the warm breast of the bird.

actually, I’ve personal negative experience with flat roosts. I had a Black Jersey Giant cockerel that got a very bad breast blister due to a wide roost. It took several months to fully heal, and we managed the injury for a few weeks to begin with, including opening the round 2x to remove puss. We turned all roosts to the narrow side of a 2x4 and they are fine, even in very cold weather. When they are roosting on the more narrow roosts, their feet are fully covered by feathers. So, I don’t recommend wide flat roosts for large birds.
 
your chickens can go inside a draft free area and get on roosts and walk around on dry ground, so they will be fine. Do not open the windows if it will allow a draft on your birds since it is so cold. But if you only have ventilation through the windows, then that would be necessary to open them, but you would want to apply baffles to keep direct air off the birds.
Thank you I will look into that that’s my fear if I crack the window it will be right on them.

I can't speak from experience as that's never happened to me, but some people do take steps to ensure their chickens don't get foot frost.

- A few threads on BYC tell about chickens who prefer flat perches over round branches to roost on. The toes do not curl during sleep, and that keeps the blood flowing unimpeded to warm the extremities during wintertime. There's also the bonus of the entire foot being covered by the chicken's feathers when on a flat perch, contrary to round perches where the toes must curl over the roost to grip the wood and thus, leave the warm breast of the bird. I'm trying out 2 x 3 & 2 x 4 grey-taped roosting perches on my birds, and both winter and summer breeds (I have a Welsumer in the lot) are currently doing fine in my non-heated coop at temps ranging from -1°C to -5°C with 72%-80% humidity (and no ventilation).

- A few farmers I've met around the city believe in favoring feather-footed chickens over bare-legged ones, as the feathers give their foot some insulation. Whether that is true or not, is unknown. Watch out for scaly leg mites though; feather-footed chickens are prone to those.

Ditto with Acre4Me on the cracked window. Open it for ventilation, but not for drafts. And shield against the latter if you need air for the former.

Hopefully this will help you somewhat! Good luck with your chickens!

actually, I’ve personal negative experience with flat roosts. I had a Black Jersey Giant cockerel that got a very bad breast blister due to a wide roost. It took several months to fully heal, and we managed the injury for a few weeks to begin with, including opening the round 2x to remove puss. We turned all roosts to the narrow side of a 2x4 and they are fine, even in very cold weather. When they are roosting on the more narrow roosts, their feet are fully covered by feathers. So, I don’t recommend wide flat roosts for large birds.
 
actually, I’ve personal negative experience with flat roosts. I had a Black Jersey Giant cockerel that got a very bad breast blister due to a wide roost. It took several months to fully heal, and we managed the injury for a few weeks to begin with, including opening the round 2x to remove puss. We turned all roosts to the narrow side of a 2x4 and they are fine, even in very cold weather. When they are roosting on the more narrow roosts, their feet are fully covered by feathers. So, I don’t recommend wide flat roosts for large birds.

As far as I know none of my chickens have breast blisters. I will still check them for it though, now that you have mentioned this. Could the weight of your Black Jersey Giant be the cause behind his breast blister on the wide flat roost? My birds are middle-sized, so maybe they won't have that problem. If age is behind the wear-down of the breast bone (had your Jersey been using flat-footed perches for years when it happened?), I will watch out for breast blisters as my birds get older.

the problem with feathered feet is that if they get wet, they’ll stay wet. If it’s cold enough, those feathers could freeze, leaving the hen just as (if not more) cold than a non feathered footed hen. I don’t think it makes much of a major difference either way though.

It might not make much of a difference in America, but in Quebec, with the kind of climate that I have, I would not dare let a Marans or other feather-footed breeds into my unheated coop, unless they were born clean-legged (a hard thing to obtain as it's a breed flaw). That's why I went for the Welsumer actually, to avoid soiled wet feet in my dark brown egg layer ^^
 
Could the weight of your Black Jersey Giant be the cause behind his breast blister on the wide flat roost? My birds are middle-sized, so maybe they won't have that problem. If age is behind the wear-down of the breast bone (had your Jersey been using flat-footed perches for years when it happened?), I will watch out for breast blisters as my birds get older.

Weight - maybe. However, he was not yet fully grown at 11 months of age at the time of the breast blister. He was just under 11lbs at that point. Standard weight of a BJG Rooster is 13 lbs according to APA, so he still had some growing to do. He is now 22 months old, but not sure how much he weighs at this point, but he did grow more after the breast blister incident. Age was not a factor since he hadn't even reached 1 year of age. There is also varying body shape among breeds , and the keel bone of the BJG was resting on the flat roost, and any movement he made caused there to be friction between skin and feathers and roost bar. This caused the blister. Now that he is on a narrow roost, we do not have this problem, and it is easy to see his keel bone is not rubbing against anything. We did not notice this issue on the standard breeds at the time of the issue with the BJG.
 
Weight - maybe. However, he was not yet fully grown at 11 months of age at the time of the breast blister. He was just under 11lbs at that point. Standard weight of a BJG Rooster is 13 lbs according to APA, so he still had some growing to do. He is now 22 months old, but not sure how much he weighs at this point, but he did grow more after the breast blister incident. Age was not a factor since he hadn't even reached 1 year of age. There is also varying body shape among breeds, and the keel bone of the BJG was resting on the flat roost, and any movement he made caused there to be friction between skin and feathers and roost bar. This caused the blister. Now that he is on a narrow roost, we do not have this problem, and it is easy to see his keel bone is not rubbing against anything. We did not notice this issue on the standard breeds at the time of the issue with the BJG.

The sheer weight of your roo probably caused his breast blister, then. Wide flat roost perches have been suggested in other BYC threads to keep growing chickens from wearing down/curving their keel bones on round roosts over time, so that implies the chicken does rub/press his breast quite a bit on the roost when he settles down for the night. I'm happy to hear your BJG is doing much better now that he rests on the narrow part of the flat perch. There's a roost for each bird; we all just need to find which one fits them best!
 

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