I should have been clearer. The behavioral problems I'm mostly talking about are when you have immature cockerels with immature pullets. The boys hormones are running wild and the pullets aren't mature enough to handle that well. Even mature hens can sometimes have problems with the cockerels, either being terrorized by them or beating the crap out of them. It's possible you can have problems with bare backed hens or overmated hens with older birds but usually not. It's usually the immature that give the problems.Thank you so much for your reply and such great information!
In terms of the behaviour problems, if I let this year's chicks breed next year and then again the following year, would there be less behaviour problems the second year since they would be more mature then? Or would they continue to have behavioural problems every year afterwards because I let them start breeding too young?
The girls tend to reach a decent maturity level a little after they start to lay. There is no set time with the boys. Often seven months is old enough but I had one that took 11 months and he was never great.
Starting breeding young is not going to have a long term effect. What often happens on this forum is that people see the behavior when they are immature cockerels and kill or rehome them without giving them a chance to mature. Your first year may be fairly calm but if it is hard to watch using older birds the nest year should be a lot better.
A lot of this will be trial and error. Not all hens of any breed go broody. Even if you have breeds that often go broody you are only planning on a mall handful. There will be luck involved in getting enough to hatch what you want.We would want to hatch maybe 30 or so La Bresse per year to raise for meat. With the other breeds, we would only want to hatch enough to replace older birds and generally keep the flock going. I know La Bresse are not known for being broody so my thought was to spread their eggs between the other breeds when they go broody and then let the broody hens hatch a couple of their own eggs as well. The timing wouldn't be critical, other than my concerns about how to manage putting the roosters back together at one time.
If you hatch eggs from hens that go broody and keep them as replacements you can improve how often your hens go broody. I did that, including keeping a rooster from those eggs. In a few generations I had a flock where every hen tended to go broody at least once every year, many several times. It still did not work for me. I had limited room in the freezer for meat so I'd have to hatch with the incubator in February to avoid running out of meat in June or July. My hens would not go broody that early in the year.
It may take you a couple of years to work out the system that works for you.
I can't argue, an incubator can be stressful. Broody hens can too sometimes, but I prefer broody hens when they are an option.I just bought my incubator this year and have done two hatches. To be honest, I found it very stressful. I have had my peahens hatch and raise their own peachicks and it was a much more enjoyable experience watching things happen naturally. At least I have the incubator as a back up in case I get no broody or in case the broody hens let me down, so I'm hoping to just use it that way if I have to. That's the theory but I suppose, like everything else, I'll have to wait and see what happens in reality!
I totally agree with this. There will be a learning curve. Starting small and learning the basics could really help out before you spend a lot on building facilities. No matter how much you research and plan these things never go exactly as you expect. You'll see how hard it is to add cockerels to the bachelor pad. Things like that. Plus you may find your goals change. Mine did.I think the biggest thing I've learned so far is that I should start smaller than my original ambitions until I actually get some experience breeding.