My Crop Tube Feeding Journey With My Bird (Pics For Visuals- VERY detailed Post)

[kuntrygirl]

I have been reading a LOT of threads about sick birds who are not eating and I wanted to share my personal experience with tube feeding my bird. I would by like to start by saying that I have absolutely NO experience as any type of medical professional. I am NOT nor have I ever had any type of medical training as an LPN, NURSE, Medical Assistant, CNA, Doctor, Vet, Vet Tech, Pharmacy, Phlebotomist, etc. I'm just your every day average person who just so happens to have animals. So going into this was VERY scary for me.

Here is my story..........

I am dealing with at this very moment a bird that I had noticed who had droopy wings and was laying around too much in my opinion. I noticed this unusual behavior for a couple of days and it worried me. When I picked up my bird, I noticed and felt that my bird had lost a lot of weight. I immediately knew that something was wrong. With the weight loss, I knew that I had to get some food inside of him. I have always hand fed all of my birds that needed it but I knew that this bird would not eat much food if I had to hand feed it. So, I chose my second choice, which was to mix up a mixture of feed that contained Flockraiser crumble, eggs and vitamins. I liquefied this combination and fed with a syringe. This process went "OK" but I was still worried about the amount of food that was going in. It just wasn't enough of food intake in my opinion.

Because of my concerns, I took pics of poop and sent to my good BYC friend Kathy (casportpony) in addition to sending her the weight of my bird. Casportpony is my go to person for just about everything when it comes to sickness/illnesses/meds/procedures. She has proven to be an excellent resource and I trust every suggestion and advice that she gives me because I know that she thoroughly researches EVERYTHING and she has used these methods on her own birds and I know that she would never do anything to jeopardize the lives of her animals. So, after sending poop pics to casportpony, she gave me her take on the pics and her suggestions and concerns. Casportpony has been after me for months to get me to learn to crop tube feed but I always told her no because I was too afraid. I was afraid that I would hurt my birds.

So, this time around when my bird had lost 50% of it's body weight and was obviously knocking on death's door, I took the plunge and researched more about crop tube feeding and sought out the necessary supplies that I would need. Casportpony helped me in telling me what I would need. Because I knew that time was of the essence and I did not have time to waste. Ordering something online was not an option because I would have to wait too long to get the supplies. So, I began my journey to call just about EVERY vet's office, doctor's office, hospital, pharmacy and medical supply company in my town to get the feeding tubes. No one had them and if they did have them, they would not sell it to me for whatever reasons. My last and final try was a pharmacy that I just so happen to be driving by. I turned around and went inside and talked to the pharmacist. I explained to them what I needed and pretty much begged them for their help in getting the tube for me. The pharmacist immediately got on the phone and called the company that she gets her supplies from. After talking with her rep, she said that they did not have what I needed. By this time, the other pharmacy techs were helping and making calls to animal owners that they knew to try to help me find the tubes. They still had no luck. Then they decided to go to their supply room and look through every item they had to try to find me the tube. They came out with hand fulls of supplies. And lo' and behold they handed me a tube (labeled as urinary catheter) and that is exactly what I needed. The size was 16 and I really needed an 18 but I knew that the 16 would work as well.

Pic of Actual Tube From The Pharmacy

The pharmacy also gave me a large syringe. I already had 3 of these at home but I got it anyway. You can never have too many.

So, after getting the tube, I then proceeded to go to PetSmart to get the feed that I would need for the tube feeding (Exact Hand Feeding Baby Bird Formula - $14.99).
http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2753607

(Casportpony recommended this.)

I was also to get some Pedialyte but I forgot to stop at the store on my way home. Being as though I forgot, I researched online to find a home made Pedialyte recipe to add to the mixture. Recipes Below.

Homemade Pedialyte Recipe #1
Mix together:
1 quart water
2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt

Homemade Pedialyte Recipe #2:
1/2 cup hot water
3 1/2 cups water
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 1/2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon Jello gelatin powder/mix, any flavor
Mix salt, sugar and Jello with hot water until dissolved. Stir into 3 1/2 cups of water and serve. Refrigerate up to 3 days.

Homemade Pedialyte Recipe #3
4 cups water
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
3 tablespoons sugar or honey
1/2 teaspoon salt
optional: 1/2 packet unsweetened Kool-Aid
Mix all ingredients together and serve. Refrigerate up to 3 days.

Homemade Pedialyte Recipe #4
2 quarts water
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 1/2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup orange juice
Mix all ingredients together and serve. Refrigerate up to 3 days

So, I researched online the anatomy of a chicken. Specifically the crop area to make sure that I knew exactly what I was doing. I came across several pics and diagrams and printed them out and brought them home to help me with the crop tube feeding.

How To Crop Feed Your Bird Diagram

Ok, so I have my tubes, my syringes, my feed and my recipes for the Pedialyte. The other thing that is VERY important in this entire process is to make sure that you have a scale to weigh your bird. Casportpony (Kathy) always starts off all of her bird care procedures by weighing her birds. I use to chuckle when I would read her threads when she said that she weighed her birds. I always knew that it was VERY important but didn't realize how important it was until now. Weighing your bird allows you to know exactly how your bird is doing in terms of if your bird is eating or not. The scale will assist you in monitoring and documenting weights so that you can get the necessary amount of weight on your bird. I already had scales at home for weighing eggs, so I didn't have to purchase a scale. I have 2 scales that I have been using to weigh my bird. (See Pics Below)

Both scales are VERY inexpensive. I bought the digital scale from ebay and it was about $9.00. The other food scale was purchased at WalMart for about $10.00. It's a great investment.

Ok, so now is the moment of truth. Before attempting to tube feed, I would strongly suggest that this be a 2-person task. DO NOT attempt to tube feed by yourself UNLESS that is the last resort. Get your bird and make sure that your bird is securely wrapped in a towel. This will lessen the chance of your bird flying away or re-positioning itself while tube feeding. The other person should hold the bird while you prepare to tube feed. Some may ask how would you know how far to place the tube down the bird. I measured from the beak to the crop (on the outside of the bird). I then marked the tube at the beak area when the tube had gone down to the crop area. This mark indicated where I should stop.

Now is time to get the feed and mix it up. Make sure that everything that you use is sterile and clean. You do not want to allow any bacteria to get inside of your bird. I always wear gloves when handling my birds when giving meds or feeding.

Your mixture will look like this. Please make sure you follow the directions on your container if you will be using bird formula.
(internet pic)

You will want to determine how much you will feed your bird. I started off with 4 ounces of feed (2) 2 ounce syringes and then increased to 6 ounces (3) 2 ounce syringes. I would strongly suggest to draw up the feed before you get started. You don't want to feed with the 1st syringe and then stop to draw up more feed. Have your syringes pre-drawn and ready. Mine look like this. (See Pics Below)

If I am feeding outside in the pen, I place the syringes and tube in a fresh ziplock bag to transport outside.

So once your have your feed and 2 team person in place, you will now begin the process. I followed this diagram and it helped me tremendously.

Connect your tube to your syringe and you are ready to crop tube feed. Make sure that you have a tight fit with the tube being on the syringe. Make sure that your formula is not too thick because it will not flow through the tube and out of the end through the holes. Open the birds mouth and slowly place the tube inside it's mouth and slide it down the throat to where your mark is. Slowly press down on the syringe as the formula flows through the tube into the bird's crop. This process takes less than a minute. At any time, you see that your bird is in any distress (if you are doing it correctly, your bird won't be), please stop and allow the bird to calm down and begin again.

http://zooveterinary.com/veterinary-medicine/tube-feeding

The steps involved in tube feeding are as follows:

1. Gently restrain the bird with one hand using a towel and extend the neck. Use your other hand to control the speculum and the feeding tube. Measure the approximate length of tubing it will take to pass from the bird’s mouth to its crop and mark the stopping point directly on the tube using tape or a permanent-ink marker.

2. Attach the feeding syringe filled with the desired amount of formula to the tube, and expel any air present within the tube. With the bird held upright, insert the speculum into its mouth. Pass the feeding tube through the speculum starting from the left side of the bird’s mouth and progressing toward the right side of the throat. As you pass the tube, feel for the tube in the esophagus as it passes down. This will help ensure that the tube is in the correct place and not in the airways. Insert the tube the pre-measured distance.

3. Slowly administer the desired amount of food. Palpate the crop for fullness. It should not feel tight, but rather still slightly fluctuant to the touch. Once finished, withdraw the tube. If the bird regurgitates food at any time during the feeding, withdraw the tube immediately. Be sure to clean and disinfect the equipment after each feeding.

My first time crop tube feeding went perfect. There were no problems and the bird sat still and did not move. I tube feed 2 times a day.

During this process, you will want to closely pay attention to the poop. When your bird is not feeling well, you should have noticed a change in your bird's poop. I know that I did. This is a pic of what my bird's poop looked like when I noticed the droopy wings and laying down all of the time. I knew that this was not normal looking poop. See Pic Below

So, I started crop tube feeding on my bird this past weekend 7-13-2013.

Before beginning the feeding, I weighed my bird on both scales for comparison and to get an average weight. My bird moved a lot trying to stay on the scale, so I took an average weight between the 2 weights. SEE PICS BELOW
My bird had lost 50% of it's body weight.
Scale #1 - 3lbs 9.0 ounces
Scale #2 - 68.3 ounces
The average weight is 4.0 lbs

***********************************************************************************************************************************

Weight and pics of poop after 2 days of crop tube feeding.

Weights
Scale #1 - 4lbs 1.5 ounces
Scale #2 - 69.3 ounes

Weight Gain
Scale # 1 - 0.25 ounces
Scale # 2 - 0.8 ounces

Poop Pics

***************************************************************************************************************************************
Weight and pics of poop after 4 days of crop tube feeding.

7/16/2013 Weigh In
Scale #1 - 4lbs 1.9 ounces
Scale #2 - 75.25 ounces

Weight Gain
Scale # 1 - 0.04 lbs
Scale # 2 - 5.95 ounces

**The poop is a little runny and the consistency is still a concern (possible bacterial infection), so I am administering 0.4 ml of Baytril for 5 days at this time.

****************************************************************************************************************************************
Total Average Weight Gain Because of Crop Tube Feeding is 6.95 ounces based on Accu-teck scale that read ounces. It may not sound like a lot but when your bird is as thin as mine is, it is a lot.
*****************************************************************************************************************************************

**I also made sure that my bird was dusted with Sevin Dust to make sure that I did not overlook any creepy crawlers on the bird. Sevin Dust is my product of choice.

Another thing that I would like to address is to make sure that you have an up-to-date Emergency/Medicine/First Aid Kit available with all needed meds in the event you have an emergency. When something happens to your birds, you don't want to get caught not having what you need. It could save your bird's life. Make sure that you have your preferred de-wormer, antibiotics or meds for bacteria related illnesses. I use Safeguard Paste and Valbazen as my preferred choice of de-wormers and I already had these one hand. When I knew something was wrong with my birds, I immediately de-wormed again. I had just used a de-wormer about 2 months prior but I did it again.

I also keep Baytril on hand for my birds. Please do your own research on Baytril. The USDA has banned Baytril in the use of poultry, so it is your choice what you want to use. I will ALWAYS have Batyril on hand. Baytril saved my turkey about 3 years ago. Without the use of this drug, my turkey would have died. Some peope are totally against the use of Baytril and that is their choice but I know what has worked for me and my birds.
http://www.intelihealth.com/IH/ihtIH/EMIHC254/333/29758/431016.html?d=dmtICNNews

Enrofloxyn 10%

Always keep syringes, and other things that you will need in the event you have an emergency.

Being proactive and being informed will save your birds. It is our duty and responsibility as pet owners to exhaust all avenues in caring for our birds in making sure that we provide the best care. I know that vets are expensive and we can't always take our birds to the vet and some of us can't afford to take them at all. Some avian vets are limited in most areas and some of them have no knowledge of what to do when it comes to our chickens and other birds. So, it is our responsibility to educate ourselves and be informed on what to do. BYC is a great resource where we all can come and learn from one another. For those who have taken their birds to the vet, can share with us what their vet has recommended and suggested. We can also learn that way.

I hope that this has brought some light to those who are afraid to crop tube feed your bird, as I was afraid. I honestly think that if I had not begun this crop tube feeding that my bird would be dead now. If your bird is too sick to eat and/or drink, then your bird will probably die from starvation and dehydration. You HAVE TO feed your bird and keep it hydrated. Imagine humans when we get sick and we don't have an appetite and don't want to eat. Our loved ones make us eat. And others (humans) have to be tube fed in order to live. Our birds are the same way. They depend on us to make sure that they receive the proper nutrition to live.

Good Luck in your Crop Tube Feeding Journey. Your bird will thank you in the end.

Let's get on board and Crop Tube Feed.

*************
Thanks to casportpony for all of her help in showing me and teaching me what I needed to do to save my bird.

Disclaimer: The information contained in this post is of my own experience with crop tube feeding. I am not a vet or a vet tech, so I cannot offer you professional medical diagnosis or treatments. I have researched what to do for my bird and I felt that I needed to do this for the best interest of my bird. This post is only to document my journey and not to force my views or opinions on others to crop tube feed.

 

[casportpony]

Warning! If the volumes listed in the above post and later in this thread are given it could cause death!

*Maximum* crop volume is 5% of a bird's weight (45 ml per pound of bodyweight). However, when crop feeing a sick bird it is best to start off with much less, as in no more than 3% of their bodyweight (9-13 ml per pound of bodyweight)

Edited to add
From Technical Procedures for the Avian Patient, by
Amy B. Johnson, CVT

Crop Feeding
Crop feeding is the main way to provide nutritional support to sick birds. There are many different formulas on the market including; Harrison’s, Kaytee Exact, Zupreem and Pretty Bird. Kaytee Exact makes a formula exclusively for macaws, which require a higher fat content. Crop feeding should only be administered to well hydrated, normothermic birds that are able to stand on their own. Formula should be mixed to an appropriate thickness to provide adequate caloric intake and should be administered at a temperature between 100˚-102˚F. Crop burns can happen at temperatures greater than this and are often not seen for several days. Symptoms of a bird with a crop burn are decreased appetite and drooling. If the burn is severe enough, a fistula will open in the crop and formula will drain from it.

When crop feeding a bird, calculate the volume to be fed at 3ml per 100gms up to every six hours for adults. Juveniles are fed 10 percent of their body weight several times a day. Always check the crop first for food contents or decreased crop motility before feeding. Weighing the bird at the beginning of every day will help determine if it is receiving the appropriate amount of calories.

Crop feeder or crop needles come in several different sizes depending on the size bird. Crop feeders are stainless steel tubes with a ball at the end. They can be purchased through www.vetspecialtyproducts.com. The bird should be restrained properly while the crop feeder is inserted in the bird’s left side of its mouth and directed toward the right side advancing into the crop. The trachea should be palpated separate from the crop feeder with the ball of the crop feeder in the crop. Once placement is confirmed and with the esophagus occluded by the head, the formula is given quickly. While maintaining occlusion of the esophagus the crop feeder is removed and the bird returned to the cage feet first and slowly letting go of the head, making sure the bird does not regurgitate. In the event that the bird should begin regurgitation, leave the bird alone. Aspiration is more likely to happen if the bird is stressed causing increased respiration and inhalation of formula. Monitor the bird for further respiratory signs and adjust technique or volume at next attempt at crop feeding.

 

[3chickchicks]

Another way to tell if you are in the airway or in the crop is to listen to the tube or put your finger up to the opening of the tube for air. If you've seen them force feed horses, they do the same and listen to the end of the tube for air sounds which means it's in the lungs.

 

[casportpony]

Can't help myself, I'm so exicted by your post... Anyway, just had a thought... you should keep posting the amounts you're feeding along with his weight gain. Doesn't have to be daily, but I think it will really help people understand how beneficial tubing is.

-Kathy

 

[casportpony]

Another way to tell if you are in the airway or in the crop is to listen to the tube or put your finger up to the opening of the tube for air. If you've seen them force feed horses, they do the same and listen to the end of the tube for air sounds which means it's in the lungs.

Good suggestion! But honestly, I've tube hundreds of birds and I've never been able to stick it in the wrong whole, I've even tried once on a dead hen, but the tube was actually too big, so unless you're using too small a tube on a large bird, the likelyhood of that happenening is slim to none.

-Kathy

 

[kuntrygirl]

Update: (with past documented weights for comparison)

Initital Weight
Scale #1 - 3lbs 9.0 ounces
Scale #2 - 68.3 ounces
*******************************************************************************************************
Weight and pics of poop after 2 days of crop tube feeding.
Weights
Scale #1 - 4lbs 1.5 ounces
Scale #2 - 69.3 ounes
*******************************************************************************************************
Weight Gain
Scale # 1 - 0.25 ounces
Scale # 2 - 0.8 ounces
*******************************************************************************************************
7/16/2013 Weigh In
Scale #1 - 4lbs 1.9 ounces
Scale #2 - 75.25 ounces

PAST Weight Gain
Scale # 1 - 0.04 lbs
Scale # 2 - 5.95 ounces

*******************************************************************************************************
RECENT UPDATES ARE LISTED BELOW:
********************************************************************************************************
7/17/2013 Weigh In
Scale #1 - 4lbs 6.2 ounces
Scale #2 - 83.2 ounces

Weight Gain from Last Weigh In: 0.43 ounces/7.95 ounces (Numbers from 2 scales)
Weight Gain from Initial Weigh In: 1lb .02 ounces OR 13.9 ounces. This gain is over the course of 7 days from first noticing my bird was not acting itself.

Poop Pic From 7-17-2013;
Looks Firmer. Looking Good.

*******************************************************************************************************
7-18-2013 - This time, I noticed that he was eating, so I purposely didn't crop feed so that I could get an idea of how much he was eating and to find out how much would be weigh (gain or loss) due to me NOT crop feeding. He dropped a little because I did not crop feed. Wanted to confirm that crop feeding his helping him eat and gain weight.
Scale #1 - 4lbs 3.7 ounces
Scale #2 - 75.2 ounces

Weight Loss From Last Weight in: 0.25 ounces - Because I purposely did not crop feed, my bird lost 0.25 ounces.

Poop does not look as firm as it did the day before.

7-19-2013 - Did not crop feed again on purpose for comparison again.
Scale #1 - 4lbs 2.7 ounces
Scale #2 - 75.3 ounces

Poop is looking a little firmer than 7-18-2013.

*******************************************************************************************************
7-20-2013 - Did not crop feed again on purpose for comparison again.
Scale #1 - 4lbs 3.9 ounces
Scale #2 - 76.3 ounces

Scale #1 - Weight Gain of 0.12 ounces
Scale #2 - Weight Gain of 1.0 ounces
***************************************************************************************************************
From Beginning To Present, he has gained an average weight of 8 ounces (if my calculations are correct). So many numbers. :/
If he would have lost these same 8 ounces or more because I didn't crop feed him, he would have been almost 2 lbs. So it is evident that crop tube feeding is working for my boy and it will work for others.

I will continue to weigh and will continue to crop tube feed so that he can gain more weight. I currently have him eating Flockraiser 20% protein (in addition to the Bird Feed Formula) but I think I will purchase Game Bird Feed 28% protein to up the protein for quicker weight gain. I think that he can benefit more with a higher protein feed (crumble). I must add that I changed the feed from pellets to crumble, so that he would have no problem eating his feed. I have decided to take a poop sample to the vet to see if they can tell me anything.

He had a surprising milestone on last night and I was so proud of him. For 2 weeks, he had been sleeping on the ground. When I started crop feeding him, I could tell that he was feeling better because he had more energy and was walking and trotting around. He had been looking at the roost and had made on many attempts the squatting motion/position as if he wanted to jump on the roost but I don't think that he had enough energy. Well, last night, I went out to check on him and he had already jumped on the roost and was roosting. e All I could do was smile and Thank God that he accomplished what he had been trying to do all week. To me, that is an indication that he is getting better.

I will continue to update every couple days to keep everyone posted. We are still not out of the woods yet, but I am doing everything to get him better.

 

[DarleneE]

Hello everyone!!

I'd like to share my experience after reading your wonderful post in an effort to help others who may run into the problem I had in which I could find next to NO information on.

My 2 yo EE hen suddenly was found sitting in a corner, eyes closed, not eating and after picking her up.. seeing that she'd lost an enormous amount of weight!! She was nothing but feathers and bone!! I also noticed her crop was large and felt like a huge ball of dough nearly the size of a tangerine!! Lastly I noticed there was basically no poop under her in the roost in the morning. Instead the bedding was wet without any solid material?? It smelled really bad in there also!! Ugh... REALLY BAD!! I knew I was going to lose her and COULD NOT allow that to happen!! I have two hens.. this one, Livie, and a BR named Daisy. They are my pets and are very very much loved!! In my opinion, due to the huge amount of weight she'd lost.. getting some food and nutrients in her was the first thing I needed to treat. I had guessed there was no solid poop in the roost only because she wasn't eating and thus only the liquid waste was being expelled?? I really had no idea why for sure though and no idea what to do about this.

I immediately began getting info on how to tube feed her. Being a nurse of 25 yrs it really wasn't an issue to me. I simply needed to know a chicken's anatomy and once I'd studied that I was good to go. I used the Exact baby bird formula mixed up with something called Nutri-Drench (2cc) which is a vitamin supplement for use in an emergency situation with chickens as it can be detected in the bloodstream in just 10 minutes!! I HIGHLY recommend the use of this product as I've had very good results with it. I've even used it in between tube feedings with her if she looked a little slow and less active again thru this entire illness. So keep this handy and in mind as a quick "pick me up" if it is necessary!!

I began doing tube feedings twice a day for about 2 to 3 days until she began eating on her own again well and began walking around and showing interest in things again. However there STILL was no poop under her in the roost?? I knew then that she had a good chance if I could now only get rid of the doughy stuff in her crop and get her pooping again. I massaged her crop several times a day without results.

I was told to heat approximately 3cc of vegetable oil to a very warm temp, but of course not hot enough to burn her, and put it all down deep into her throat with a syringe. I did this. The next morning there was poop all over the roost under her once again!! Thru this entire process there would be days where again I'd find barely no or not any poop again, so I'd again give the 3cc of heated vegetable oil. It seemed to work very well. However when using a syringe to give ANYTHING to a chicken you MUST BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO GET ANY INTO THE TRACHEA!! I DO NOT recommend that anyone do this until they have become very familiar with a chickens anatomy!! When doing this, it is very important to go deep down into the throat, behind the tongue and tracheal opening as well as to put the liquid in slowly to be certain that there isn't any backflow of liquid that could easily flow into the birds trachea!! AGAIN.. please ONLY do this once you are familiar with the chickens anatomy and are comfortable with it.

Time to see a vet!! Well we saw TWO vets.. neither of which knew a thing nor could find a single thing wrong with her??!! She had a blood count, a full blood chemistry panel, a fecal float test, etc!! $400+ later I knew it was up to me to find a way to save her!!

As far as nutrition, she was eating on her own her crumbles. I supplemented twice a day with white rice, potatoes, veggies of all kinds which I rotated around, eggs, cantaloupe, grapes, etc etc. I made everything boiled and very soft then mashed it all up well for her. I gave her basically as wide a variety as I could in an effort to get some really good nutrition in her as it was obvious she was NOT able to absorb 100% of her intake with that huge ball of dough in her crop!! I could have continued tube feeding but since she was eating very well on her own I chose NOT to continue putting a tube down her throat unless it was absolutely necessary to feed her in that way. That was MY choice only and just MY decision to do it this way. Others may have another preference. All are fine as long as the bird is getting the most nutrition in her possible in my opinion.

Now for the doughy crop. I searched high and low EVERYWHERE for some info on this and found only ONE treatment for it!! It sounded RIDICULOUS!! The vets said NO WAY!! So I looked some more!! NOTHING!! All the while this doughy crop seemed to be getting harder and I had to do something FAST. I decided to try that "ridiculous" treatment!! This treatment is as follows:
1/2 teaspoon of each of the following:
Cinnamon
Ginger
Chile powder
Baking Soda
Next a good squirt of lemon juice
2 Tablespoons of water
This is to be tube fed 3X day for 2 to 3 days. Thus this is what I did crazy as it sounded!! I did it the two full days. It became softer and became more liquid like with each treatment. On the third morning HER CROP WAS EMPTY folks!!!! YES INDEED THAT "RIDICULOUS" TREATMENT HAD SAVED MY GIRL!!!! I couldn't be more grateful to whomever posted that treatment as I found no way to contact that person??

Last issue I had to resolve was that her crop was now not emptying all the way every morning. It seemed to be kind of slow or sluggish from having all that doughy stuff in there for so long?? In fact I'm pretty certain the crop muscles had even stretched some as well. I decided to start her on probiotics. All I had on hand was the human brand called Culturelle. I looked it up and found that it was fine to use the human grade. So I opened a probiotic capsule and sprinkled the powder into her food.. (in the home food I am giving her). The following morning her crop was much smaller than the last day?? Wow that was really odd but I wasn't going to complain!! After giving her a second capsule the following day, on the following morning HER CROP HAD EMPTIED COMPLETELY!!!! I really don't know HOW this could have happened this way... but it DID. I CANNOT however swear that it was due to the probiotics that her crop emptied... it could have been coincidence?? I personally DON'T buy that though. I truly believe it was due to the probiotics that her digestion began working properly again and thus she arose with an empty crop!! I will now swear by them as far as how well they've done in OUR case however!! I am giving them to both my hens once a day and they are doing GREAT!! Livie now has A RAVENOUS APPETITE and is slowly gaining her weight back. Both are looking very very well. Their poop is nice and solid. I will continue them on probiotics as they HAVE helped my hens in so many ways.

THIS IS MY STORY AND MINE ALONE. I AM NOT A VET NOR ANY MEDICAL AUTHORITY ON CHICKENS BY ANY MEANS!!!! So, please do not take this as proven fact and proven cures for a chicken!! This is simply our story of the way I was able to save my chicken from this type of illness. IT WORKED FOR US... I HAVE NO IDEA IF IT WILL WORK FOR YOU!! However, I feel confident enough with it, that I feel it's worth sharing!! I wish anyone who chooses to use my method all the luck in the world that they should have the same WONDERFUL OUTCOME that I had!!!!


This is my Olivia, AKA Livie, now well and thriving and I couldn't be a happier chicken mom!!

And here are BOTH my girls, Daisy and Livie!!

 

[kuntrygirl]

What an excellent post! Go team "crop-feeding"!

-Kathy

Thank you!!!

 

[kuntrygirl]

UPDATE:

Decided to weigh my bird on yesterday and was going to crop feed. I brought him in and he poop like he normally does. The poo was a little runny and darker in color. I weighed him and his weight was still good. It was 76.6 ounces = 4.7875 lbs. So, he didn't lose any weight from me not crop feeding. I noticed that he sounded "raspy" and kept opening his mouth and stretching his neck. To me that is in an indication of gapeworm. I had already did Safeguard paste for 3 days. I took the poo sample and bagged it up and dropped it off at the vet this morning. I called to make sure that they received it but the vet is in surgery. I will await the results.

 

[casportpony]

I doubt he has gapeworms, sounds more like a respiratory infection, fungal or bacterial, which is one of the risks one takes after treating with Baytril. Baytril kills everything, so it very possible that once you stopped the baytril, he got either a fungal or bacterial infection. Please, talk to your vet about how to proceed. Have you read the Baytril page on the poultry pedia site?

-Kathy