Peafowl Diet

Midnightman14

Crowing
7 Years
May 23, 2016
1,361
1,259
276
Central WI
You could write a whole book on peafowl nutrition and diet but here are some bulleted points so this post doesn't turn into a novel

- Unless a pelleted/crumble diet is custom formulated for you said crumbles are woefully inadequate for peafowl when fed alone. These feeds are designed for birds that are probably only going to live a year or two at most. Peafowl can live for decades with good care.

- Be wary when someone uses the words "my birds are fine" or "have had no problems" . If they say that ask them how old their oldest bird is if it's younger than a decade I would not take that advice.

- In the wild peafowl feed mainly on lean grains, bugs, small reptiles and mammals, fruits, and greens. The feeds we get are often mostly soy based which is bad for the birds because it makes them fat and slow.

- My personal feed mix is a sort of trail mix of gamebird pellets, large breed puppy kibble (for it's animal protein and veggie micronutrients), Farmers Helper Ultrakibble supplement (great stuff designed specifically for ornamental pheasants and peafowl), a scoop or so of racing pigeon grains, Black oil sunflower seeds (lots of healthy fats and good for feather luster), Thawed pinky mice on occasion for red meat/iron, and whatever leafy greens we decide we don't want in the kitchen as a treat.

- Things not to feed: Dairy products of any kind, cracked corn, scratch grain, chicken layer pellets/crumble, avocado products, onion products, and earthworms/nightcrawlers.

- Good treats for enrichment and snacks: Grapes, corn on the cob, any kind of melon, blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, romaine lettuce, collard greens, mealworms, kale, and many others.
 
Soy is not good but neither are distillers grains, another poor choice of protein. Another thing people overlook is the quality of your water, high sulfates cause lots of reproductive problems in all livestock. Our well water tested poorly so we truck city water to the farm for them.
 
You could write a whole book on peafowl nutrition and diet but here are some bulleted points so this post doesn't turn into a novel

- Unless a pelleted/crumble diet is custom formulated for you said crumbles are woefully inadequate for peafowl when fed alone. These feeds are designed for birds that are probably only going to live a year or two at most. Peafowl can live for decades with good care.

- Be wary when someone uses the words "my birds are fine" or "have had no problems" . If they say that ask them how old their oldest bird is if it's younger than a decade I would not take that advice.

- In the wild peafowl feed mainly on lean grains, bugs, small reptiles and mammals, fruits, and greens. The feeds we get are often mostly soy based which is bad for the birds because it makes them fat and slow.

- My personal feed mix is a sort of trail mix of gamebird pellets, large breed puppy kibble (for it's animal protein and veggie micronutrients), Farmers Helper Ultrakibble supplement (great stuff designed specifically for ornamental pheasants and peafowl), a scoop or so of racing pigeon grains, Black oil sunflower seeds (lots of healthy fats and good for feather luster), Thawed pinky mice on occasion for red meat/iron, and whatever leafy greens we decide we don't want in the kitchen as a treat.

- Things not to feed: Dairy products of any kind, cracked corn, scratch grain, chicken layer pellets/crumble, avocado products, onion products, and earthworms/nightcrawlers.

- Good treats for enrichment and snacks: Grapes, corn on the cob, any kind of melon, blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, romaine lettuce, collard greens, mealworms, kale, and many others.
Is it necessary to substitute feed as in laying mash if I want my peahen to lay eggs (she has only laid one in 18 months)? I feed them mixed chicken feed (grains with sunflower seeds), bread as a treat, chopped vegetables, and they free range during the day ...
 
Is it necessary to substitute feed as in laying mash if I want my peahen to lay eggs (she has only laid one in 18 months)? I feed them mixed chicken feed (grains with sunflower seeds), bread as a treat, chopped vegetables, and they free range during the day
They do not need the high calcium of layer feeds and it won't help them lay more eggs.
 
Hi I would like to ask a question to add to this conversation. I have just purchased

Purina Game Bird Layer Poultry Feed for my hens for this breeding season. I am feeding it to my two hens that are separated for now. But in my other pen I have two hens and a peacock. I read that you shouldnt feed to peacocks. So I have a separate area where the hens can eat this layer. How are you supposed to keep the peacock from eating it and why do they manufacture it if the peacocks are with the hens all breeding season? Im confused.
I got it because one of my white separated hens (without a peacock) laid a deformed egg a couple days ago. I added this new food and some oyster shell. The egg was skinny and hard. Shaped like a dog bone. Very scary looking. Now Im researching why they would lay deformed eggs. I think it came from my older silver pied hen the one who was attacked twice. Could it be from stress? Or most likely diet? Any thoughts. (Just wanted to add that for me this peacock site and the help I get from you guys here is a blessing Thankyou)
 
Although it could be genetic diet can also cause shell problems. Layer feed in general is high in calcium, peas do not need more than 1.5%, and higher than that can cause kidney problems in the cocks. The gamebird layer is meant for use during the breeding season and not a year-round ration.

It is not only feed that can cause shell and low hatch rate problems, it could be your water is high in sulfates and total dissolved solids.
 
Thanks for your reply. I did notice you mentioned about the water. I've only had the hens for a couple months now. Wondering about our well water. We do use a water system to remove iron but not for outside. Will test water. Also continue to research egg problems.
I am assuming the peacocks eating some layer food for just the breeding season hopefully won't hurt him too much. Thanks
 
Thanks for your reply. I did notice you mentioned about the water. I've only had the hens for a couple months now. Wondering about our well water. We do use a water system to remove iron but not for outside. Will test water. Also, continue to research egg problems.
I am assuming the peacocks eating some layer food for just the breeding season hopefully won't hurt him too much. Thanks
People assume there is one giant mill that produces all Purina products in one location and it is shipped all across the US which isn't so. The license and recipe are leased to mills for reproduction in that area which reduces the shipping costs and lowers the price of the feed. My local mill makes the Game Bird Starter Breeder in 28% protein which is developed for both mature birds and chicks. The calcium level is 1.5% which should be sufficient but I also keep a bowl of oyster shells in the feeding area in case the hen feels the need for more calcium.
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom