post your chicken coop pictures here!

all modular one to be used to make another.. except for the first. Here is what I want to build and why it will be my last dog kennel panels. the climate here is very mild deb
Oh wow, that sounds complicated! I was envisioning one giant 24x24 coop but the modular idea and separate sections is very neat
 
how big is your coop and run

if your are speaking to me My PROPOSED coop is actually a poultry house. It will be 24 x 24 feet iNside partitions wioll be in six foot increments Three of them will be six by twelve the fourth will be six by twenty four with an are of six by six I want to try to encourage the guineas to lay eggs in. My goal is to have about sixty guinea fowl. The chicken partitions can hold about twenty to twenty five depending on how well they get along. I am reserving one partition for four goats. their outdoor space will take up the remainder of the back yard.

The run for the poultry will be twenty four by fifty to start but I hope to expand it to cover the last of my yard width. The horse corral is about ninety six feet long. Or four pipe corral panels long.

deb
 
Here are a few pictures of the coop I built this summer. So far our girls are very happy except they seem to be rebelling from the new wood shutters I just installed getting ready for winter, but I think they will like them when it turns cold.



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I posted this a long time ago. I constructed a shelter, mostly from roadside trash to cover my Ware chicken coops, but when I found the coops didn't fit under the shelter I decided to build a coop under the shelter for a custom fit.
First I built the shelter.
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Then I built the coop in place under the shelter.

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Then I built removable panels for all open sides for winter with venilation at the tops.

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Now I'm building a shed for chicken supplies. I built the roof first because some roof structure from someone's playhouse had been discarded. Used cheap fence pickets for the roof which will be insulated on the inside, caulked and stained. It will generally match the coop.
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5 YEARS AGO WE WENT NUTS RE-MODELING IN PREPARATION FOR ACQUIRING BACKYARD CHICKENS!


THEN WE ADDED A PRE-MADE 4x6 COOP AND TRIED TO USE TARPS OVER THE 60-YR-OLD CHAINLINK FENCE BUT IT WAS OBVIOUS THE RUSTED OLD FENCE HAD TO GO!! ESPECIALLY AFTER 2 STRAY DOGS BROKE THE GATE TO ATTACK THE COOP. WE KNEW WE NEEDED A STURDIER COOP TOO.


THE NEW 4x4x6' TALL BARN COOP ON WHEELS - NOTHING SHORT OF A GRIZZLY BEAR CAN MOVE THIS THING! GLAD I GOT THE WHEEL PKG TO MOVE IT AROUND DURING YARD CONSTRUCTION.


BYE-BYE OLD COOP - YOU SERVED US WELL FOR NEARLY 5 YRS - GL IN YOUR NEW HOME!


THE BOBCAT IS LEVELING FRONT AND BACK YARD DIRT!


THE CHAINLINK FENCE ON ONE SIDE IS GONE SO FAR WITH MORE TO COME DOWN!!! TO BE REPLACED WITH BLOCK WALL!



Thought this day would never get here. Took us 5 years to get to this point! But obviously a block wall will be more secure for roaming backyard chickens than the old flimsy chainlink! It keeps raining a couple days every week and slows down the progress! More photos to come!
 







New coop and run. I'm also going to put wheels on the run, so both are mobile. There are "shades" that slide into the windows at the top, if I need more protection (but they are loose, so that I still get some air flow. I need to put wheels on the run so both parts will be mobile. Next time I'll make the coop about 6 inches taller. The run is large enough to fit over a garden box (the run is 6x12 and my raised beds are 5x10), so I can either place it over the bed in the fall or early spring to fertilize them, or, if I make more, I can cover it in plastic and use them as a greenhouse (not being a chicken run at that time).
 
New coop and run. I'm also going to put wheels on the run, so both are mobile. There are "shades" that slide into the windows at the top, if I need more protection (but they are loose, so that I still get some air flow. I need to put wheels on the run so both parts will be mobile. Next time I'll make the coop about 6 inches taller. The run is large enough to fit over a garden box (the run is 6x12 and my raised beds are 5x10), so I can either place it over the bed in the fall or early spring to fertilize them, or, if I make more, I can cover it in plastic and use them as a greenhouse (not being a chicken run at that time).
Be sure you give the chicken poop enough "cooling" time before you want to have living plants where the poop is. It really should be composted. Chicken poop is "hot" fertilizer and will kill plants straight from the chicken. On the other hand, I can put fresh rabbit poop directly into my beds. Rabbit poop is "cool" fertilizer.
 

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