Preparing Your Flock & Coop for WINTER

[iwiw60]

I thought I'd start a new thread today so everyone can post what they are planning to do to help winterize their flocks and coops/runs for winter. Share your ideas, things that have worked well for you, things that haven't worked so well. I'll start off with this:

First of all, I do not free-range, so my run (which is attached to the coop) is quite large for my 4 girls. It is approximately 9' x 16' with a sloped roof for easy snow removal:





I purchased a 100' roll of 6-mil clear plastic, 10' wide and I'll be "wrapping" my run with it leaving about 12" or so at the top for ventilation. The winds can get pretty bad during our winter storms so I'll be securing it to the posts using those cheap wood furring strips (I think that's what you call them) top to bottom on each post. With it being 6-mil it should hold up really good.

I figure when it's not snowing and even though it may only be +20 outside, even the minimal warmth from the sun will heat that area up pretty dang good. So there you have it, my first idea.

PLEASE SHARE YOUR IDEAS AND TRICKS YOU'VE USED!!

 

[iwiw60]

Just like we humans, chickens don't like "cold feet" either. If your girls have to travel from one place to another in the snow throw down some straw as their pathway(s) .. they'll love you for it!

 

[Mrs. K]

When you are considering you winter arrangements, THINK DRY not WARM.

Imagine sitting in a five people in a car in the winter. Within minutes, the moisture begins to build up on the window and walls of the car. If you coop is tooo tight, it does in there too. Dry chickens are warm chickens, wet chickens are cold. Wet combs and wattles get frost bit.

Good ventilation keeps the coop from building up moisture and keeps them dry. Do not think Tight and Warm, thing open and dry!

Mrs K

 

[iwiw60]

Our heat lamps are even above my head when I'm in the chicken coop and they are secured in with hooks that you can't get them off of unless you really push. I know that most people probably don't have a coop that big, but it's just what works for us. We have to heat a 64 sq ft chicken coop, and the lamps have been our go-to.

I think what we all need to realize is that chickens do not need heat in the sense that we humans do. Most breeds do just fine down to -20. I mean, think about it...like in my case, my coop is 5' x 8', I have 4 full-grown Black Australorp (they're big birds), lots of floor bedding. The body heat that they will produce in the dead of winter will keep the coop at around +30-35 which is perfect. Plus when you heat the coop on top of their own body heat there's always that chance that it will get "humid" in there, and that's something no one wants for their birds...JMHO

 

[bobbi-j]

I'm in MN - long, cold (temps to -20's - -30's), snowy winters. My coop is 8'x16' and 7' high. No insulation, no heat. I use a heated dog dish for water. I'll probably put the windows back in when it gets close to freezing, then shut the pop door when it gets below zero. Oh, and I'll add some more straw. The coop is well ventilated, and I don't have issues with frostbite. I prefer for them to be acclimated to the cold.

 

[dheltzel]

I would never use heat lamps in my coops, too much chance of starting a fire and it's completely unnecessary, detrimental even. What I do use are the heated dog waterers. The wattage is much lower and they are thermostatically controlled so they will not overheat if they are left dry. Liquid water is vital and it's a real pain to break out blocks of ice every day, only to have it freeze again soon after. I'm building new coops this year to expand our operations and a top priority is to design in strategic locations for the heated dog waterers.

Good husbandry without a lot of work is my goal for this winter.

 

[iwiw60]

I would never use heat lamps in my coops, too much chance of starting a fire and it's completely unnecessary, detrimental even. What I do use are the heated dog waterers. The wattage is much lower and they are thermostatically controlled so they will not overheat if they are left dry. Liquid water is vital and it's a real pain to break out blocks of ice every day, only to have it freeze again soon after. I'm building new coops this year to expand our operations and a top priority is to design in strategic locations for the heated dog waterers.

Good husbandry without a lot of work is my goal for this winter.

Me either, @dheltzel ...not worth the possible tragedy of a fire. As for waterers I use the horizontal water nipples in my plastic bucket. I've ordered 250-watt mini stock tank heaters so my problem will be solved...no more frozen waterers. And the best part is...no more spilled/wet bedding!

 

[dheltzel]

I think what we all need to realize is that chickens do not need heat in the sense that we humans do. Most breeds do just fine down to -20. I mean, think about it...like in my case, my coop is 5' x 8', I have 4 full-grown Black Australorp (they're big birds), lots of floor bedding. The body heat that they will produce in the dead of winter will keep the coop at around +30-35 which is perfect. Plus when you heat the coop on top of their own body heat there's always that chance that it will get "humid" in there, and that's something no one wants for their birds...JMHO

Right! I would encourage anyone considering the use of any sort of supplemental heat for adult birds to research the topic here on this site. The overwhelming advice from experienced people is that heating is not only not necessary, but downright harmful, no matter how cold your winters get. Drafts are bad, cold temps are not. As long as they have enough calorie intake (plenty of food), and liquid water (to help burn those calories), chickens make all the heat they need.

 

[Princess Guinea]

[

WARNING We lost 16 birds, long term healthy and productive chickens and guineas! All were safely in their large coop and all died there. They died a terrible, painful, and suffocating death in a place that they thought was safe. They died between the time they were locked in the coop and when I opened the coop to let them out to free range.

They were laying face down, grouped in pairs with their favorite flock mate. The Orpington rooster had his wing over his favorite hen. Our favorite lavender guinea hen died next to her six-month chick huddled next to the coop door. Two sister Light Brama hens lay side by side in a corner. It was as if someone arranged them to die with their buddy. Nothing else was disturbed. The only thing that was different was that I changed their warming bulb that night.

the light had no warning on the box nor no indication that a non-stick coating was used in the bulb. Our research both on the web and in stores indicates that in most cases the bulbs are not marked.

Please check all your bulbs! If there is any indication of any coating do not use. Join Rachel Carson Conference RCC in requesting that all PTFE-containing products include animal health information, such as the following:
 
WARNING! This product contains PTFE, known to release toxic fumes potentially fatal to birds when the product is overheated. Keep birds away from this product.


Please read this article if you read nothing else- it was posted by another member in caring response to our tragedy , http://blog.mcmurrayhatchery.com/20...nt-bulbs-a-potential-danger-to-your-chickens/

Also

http://www.oldworldaviaries.com/text/styles/teflon.html

http://424pets.com/fumes.html

http://voices.yahoo.com/shatter-resistant-bulbs-dangerous-poultry-7913000.html?cat=53

 

[MeepBeep]

I am getting Vaseline for the combs.

May I suggest Bag Balm instead? IMO it's a superior product due to the antiseptic and lanolin... It's been my go to for chapped or dry skin (and fly bites) on every animal I have ever owned and I even use it on myself and the children...