Preventative Measures--what do you do on a regular basis

[nop169]

I agree that it depends on your setup. We can't free range due to coyote issues so we use a "tractor" system of sorts - 10'x10' kennels that are moved every 4 to 5 days onto a new grassy area. We do not overcrowd, maximum of 10 standard breed chickens or 3 turkey per kennel. As I have a limited area to move kennels we start on one end of the large yard and move down to the other end then move out & return so that there is typically 4 to 6 weeks before a kennel is on a pre-used spot again. Typically I do not move the turkeys or peafowl over the areas that chickens have been. In winter we eventually run out of grass so bed kennels in wheat or oat straw until spring grass is available again. We do try to make chicken "gardens" by growing rye or oats in concrete mixing plastic pans (about 2'x3' available at Lowes for under $5) to place in kennels in winter - one in use while another grows. I occasionally de-worm with piperizine or ivermectin but it is very rare & only when we are noticing issues with health or poops. I do give pumpkin seeds/innards every year and use Cayenne pepper flakes on a regular basis with young poultry and several times per year with adults. We try to avoid most medications - personal preference - and feed a good quality feed - not the cheapest not most expensive but a good quality that works well with the "pasturing".
This system works well for me in SC. The poultry all look good - slick feathers and no picking due to the moving & interest in grass/bugs it provides. Safe from predators and easy to move (use tarps as a roof with poultry netting over the top of the tarps). I did add a couple of runs of basic left over vinyl siding along the bottom of the kennel and up about 16 inches for both wind break in summer and to keep predators from seeing in & digging under. I also use the 6' x 8' kennels for bantams. Currently we have 5 10x10 and 4 6x8 kennels. Tarps have to be replaced about every 3 years and nests/feeders are mounted to kennel walls... only have to pick up waterer for moving. Very few mice & no rats due to nothing to hide under and little mite issues due to no wood for them to hide/breed in.
Before this system we used standard immobile coops with attached yards, but it was impossible to keep anything green growing longterm, rats & mice took up residence and mites were an issue. The cleaning of the coop was a pain & the dust caused both me & the poultry respiratory issues. My poultry are happier, healthier and I use few medications or dewormers. Not to mention my feed bill halved once we started this as the poultry eat the grass/bugs made available and the eggs are rich in color & taste.
You have to find what system works best for your situation but you will know when you have hit the right one for you by the overall condition & happiness of your birds. If the kennels are too large for your area, you may also try smaller pens. I use 4 or 5 greenhouse shaped 4X6 pens made out of 1'' wire & covered 3/4 over with tarps that also have a wire bottom on treated 2x2 runners that are longer than the pen for handles for moving... keeps the banties off the ground and predator safe but lets the grass be available...of course I had to add a box of dirt for dust baths to keep them happy! Hope you find the system that works best for you.

 

[Going Quackers]

I provide, good food, good shelter and plenty of fresh air lol I follow the KISS plan...

 

[carladababe]

I like the idea of using wood ash as dust baths during the winter cold. My chickens don't like the snow and take to staying in the coop rather than come out into the sand run. They love the dust baths they take on the warm side of the house but if they don't come out they don't bathe. I have a wood burning stove that has been "on" since the beginning of this last artic blast, do I just cool the ashes down and toss a bunch in a corner of the coop? I use fat wood to start my fires but this round of fires have been burning for a few days, safe to use?

 

[Beekissed]

Fresh air, sunlight, free ranged exercise, access to good forage they can glean themselves, don't overfeed, clean soils, control your stocking rates, cull yearly for nonlaying, temperament, conditioning, etc., no vaccines, no meds, good places to dust in all seasons, deep litter in the coop, fermented feeds, late winter/early spring feed a natural dewormer such as pumpkin seeds, garlic, ginger root, etc., all new birds on the property need to be dusted for parasites and castor oil on legs/feet for mite treatment/preventative, castor oil orally. Maintain balance in soil, coop and intestinal cultures at all times.