Rabbits - getting the meat rabbits around and saving money!
- Thread starter Bettacreek
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #12
Quote:
I feed a family of seven. Two toddlers (one of which is in the bottom-less pit stage), a one year old (also in the bottom-less pit stage), a seven year old (eats what you'd think a seven year old should eat), myself (I go in phases, sometimes I eat like a horse, othertimes, I eat very little) and two grown men who eat like they're starving most of the time.
Did you weigh the buck after cleaning? I'd love to know how much it weighed. My guys right now don't look very big. They're certainly smaller than the one year old mix we killed last time. I could very well be off on the age though, but heaven knows. These guys are just salebarn bunnies, so who knows how big their genes are. There was a young 4hr kiddo and his little sister at the sale. The young man was extremely helpful, trying to help me out on what to look for, I really should have had him give a guess on their age. Hindsight's 20/20.
I feed a family of seven. Two toddlers (one of which is in the bottom-less pit stage), a one year old (also in the bottom-less pit stage), a seven year old (eats what you'd think a seven year old should eat), myself (I go in phases, sometimes I eat like a horse, othertimes, I eat very little) and two grown men who eat like they're starving most of the time.
Did you weigh the buck after cleaning? I'd love to know how much it weighed. My guys right now don't look very big. They're certainly smaller than the one year old mix we killed last time. I could very well be off on the age though, but heaven knows. These guys are just salebarn bunnies, so who knows how big their genes are. There was a young 4hr kiddo and his little sister at the sale. The young man was extremely helpful, trying to help me out on what to look for, I really should have had him give a guess on their age. Hindsight's 20/20.
- Thread starter
- #13
Quote:
Lol. I certainly wouldn't try to use them for target practice! Heaven knows that I'd be out of a bunny dinner if I tried that! I plan on working with them enough to make them tame, so I would be able to get the pistol within an inch or two, so I don't think that they'd have much of a chance to feel traumatized, to be honest. As for how much meat, well, the guys LOVE meat. Plus, I'm hoping to get the dog on a halfsies diet. I figure 2-3 litters per doe per year. Minus whatever I sell or trade-in. Not to mention that if I get overwhelmed, there's always the sale barn, then I can cut a doe or two out of the breeding program.
Lol. I certainly wouldn't try to use them for target practice! Heaven knows that I'd be out of a bunny dinner if I tried that! I plan on working with them enough to make them tame, so I would be able to get the pistol within an inch or two, so I don't think that they'd have much of a chance to feel traumatized, to be honest. As for how much meat, well, the guys LOVE meat. Plus, I'm hoping to get the dog on a halfsies diet. I figure 2-3 litters per doe per year. Minus whatever I sell or trade-in. Not to mention that if I get overwhelmed, there's always the sale barn, then I can cut a doe or two out of the breeding program.
He weighed about 3 lb total cleaned i would guess... didn't have a scale but felt the same as a 3 lb pack of ground beef that I had on hand. Ours came from the flea market so they aren't giant showy rabbits either
watch the dewlaps on the females, most of mine have a roll the size of my pointer finger ( i have little hands) at breeding age.
- Thread starter
- #15
Quote:
Awesome, thanks for that. I'll be watching for dewlap size then.
Do they just start to come into heat at 6 months, or is this just the age that folks think that they should breed? My scale only goes up to 3lbs, and I refuse to pay $50 for one that goes higher, to check weights. I haven't even bothered trying to weigh my rabbits, I'm betting that they weigh more than 3lbs.
Awesome, thanks for that. I'll be watching for dewlap size then.
- Jun 14, 2009
- 1,735
- 32
- 161
Gosh I hope some one got a better memory than I do.
I think they are ready to breed at 5 months. Put the doe into the buck's cage. As he tries she will raise her tail end. If she does not raise for him, she is either not old enough, or sometimes a doe just won't raise. I had a couple that I had to "hold" for the buck, because they would not raise. Nearest I can remember they don't "come into heat" like a dog or cat, I think it is the act of breeding that brings on ovulation. Gosh I wish I could remember, 25 years since I raised rabbits.
I would breed mine and 29 to 31 days I had bunnies. One thing to note, if a doe has bunnies on the 29th, 30th or 31st day, you could pretty much set your clock by her, always on the same day. Always had the bunnies at night. You will see them start to pull hair as early as two or three days ahead. Some does never pulled hair until they actually had the bunnies. Make sure you use a good nest box, every now and then you will get a doe that will deliver her bunnies on the wire. Usually if she has them on the wire, even if you get them into the nest box alive, the doe won't nurse them. I would always breed 4 or 5 sometimes 6 does on the same day, that way if I had one that wouldn't nurse I could split the bunnies up amongst the other does. Also if I had a doe that gave me 4 bunnies and one that gave me 10, I would equalize the number of kits between the does. On delivery day, I would limit my trip out to the rabbit cages, some does are extremely nervous, if you upset them they'd have the kits on the wire or actually eat'em.
Anyway I would leave the bunnies with the doe for 4 weeks (I think). The day I removed the bunnies I would breed the doe back, starting the cycle all over again. Some of the guys I knew who raised rabbits would breed the doe back on the 3rd day after they delivered. They would leave the bunnies with the doe 3 weeks. The doe would then have maybe 10 days before she delivered again. That schedule was way to aggressive for me. When talking to them I found out they had many more incidents of delivery on the wire and canabalism.
I would raise the bunnies an additional 4 weeks (or maybe 2 weeks) then they hit the "bunny trail".
Sold dressed fryers for $4 each (1983 money). Did I ever make money, not much, but I never sold breeding stock.
Back then I fed Purina rabbit chow. They had two types back then, green bag that had 16% protien (I think) and blue bag that had 14%. I always fed the blue bag and supplemented my lactating does with Carnation Calf manna.
Culling. I would cull does that habitually had breeding or birthing problems. If she wouldn't raise for the buck, she had to be a dang good doe for me to go to the trouble of holding her for the buck. If she had bunnies on the wire or cannabalised them, she had one more chance with the next litter. Then if she done it again she was culled.
Killing. When I first started I used a hammer handle, and knocked them in the back of the head, while holding them across the back above the hind quarters. Then I started dislocating/braking their necks. Grasp by the hind quarters with left hand, palm over the back bone. Grab the head with right hand with 4 fingers under and thumb laying between the ears aligned with spine. Hold with left hand and pull sharply with right pushing thumb downward into the spine.
Disclaimer--- It has been 25 years since I had a domestic rabbit on the place, my memory wasn't good back then, it hasn't gotten any better with age.
I think they are ready to breed at 5 months. Put the doe into the buck's cage. As he tries she will raise her tail end. If she does not raise for him, she is either not old enough, or sometimes a doe just won't raise. I had a couple that I had to "hold" for the buck, because they would not raise. Nearest I can remember they don't "come into heat" like a dog or cat, I think it is the act of breeding that brings on ovulation. Gosh I wish I could remember, 25 years since I raised rabbits.
I would breed mine and 29 to 31 days I had bunnies. One thing to note, if a doe has bunnies on the 29th, 30th or 31st day, you could pretty much set your clock by her, always on the same day. Always had the bunnies at night. You will see them start to pull hair as early as two or three days ahead. Some does never pulled hair until they actually had the bunnies. Make sure you use a good nest box, every now and then you will get a doe that will deliver her bunnies on the wire. Usually if she has them on the wire, even if you get them into the nest box alive, the doe won't nurse them. I would always breed 4 or 5 sometimes 6 does on the same day, that way if I had one that wouldn't nurse I could split the bunnies up amongst the other does. Also if I had a doe that gave me 4 bunnies and one that gave me 10, I would equalize the number of kits between the does. On delivery day, I would limit my trip out to the rabbit cages, some does are extremely nervous, if you upset them they'd have the kits on the wire or actually eat'em.
Anyway I would leave the bunnies with the doe for 4 weeks (I think). The day I removed the bunnies I would breed the doe back, starting the cycle all over again. Some of the guys I knew who raised rabbits would breed the doe back on the 3rd day after they delivered. They would leave the bunnies with the doe 3 weeks. The doe would then have maybe 10 days before she delivered again. That schedule was way to aggressive for me. When talking to them I found out they had many more incidents of delivery on the wire and canabalism.
I would raise the bunnies an additional 4 weeks (or maybe 2 weeks) then they hit the "bunny trail".
Sold dressed fryers for $4 each (1983 money). Did I ever make money, not much, but I never sold breeding stock.
Back then I fed Purina rabbit chow. They had two types back then, green bag that had 16% protien (I think) and blue bag that had 14%. I always fed the blue bag and supplemented my lactating does with Carnation Calf manna.
Culling. I would cull does that habitually had breeding or birthing problems. If she wouldn't raise for the buck, she had to be a dang good doe for me to go to the trouble of holding her for the buck. If she had bunnies on the wire or cannabalised them, she had one more chance with the next litter. Then if she done it again she was culled.
Killing. When I first started I used a hammer handle, and knocked them in the back of the head, while holding them across the back above the hind quarters. Then I started dislocating/braking their necks. Grasp by the hind quarters with left hand, palm over the back bone. Grab the head with right hand with 4 fingers under and thumb laying between the ears aligned with spine. Hold with left hand and pull sharply with right pushing thumb downward into the spine.
Disclaimer--- It has been 25 years since I had a domestic rabbit on the place, my memory wasn't good back then, it hasn't gotten any better with age.
I would bred my does 3-4 weeks after they kindled that way they had a week or two after I removed the previous litter before they kindled again always on day 31. I have used a bb gun right behind and between the ears, have also used a clublike instrument to knock them in the back of the head. I have never tried dislocating the neck. Then I just slit down both legs then peel off the hide like pantyhose (tube them out).Usually takes me between 5 - 10 minutes from kill to chill water.
- Thread starter
- #18
I had thought about the rebar behind the ears. I was just afraid that holding them by the ears would hurt. As for cage sizing, I will be keeping my dry breeders in the 2'x2'x18" until further notice. If I feel that it's enough for the mature breeders, then I'll only be building grow-outs and litter cages. I don't want to give my rabbits huge manors to live in, I want what is efficient, yet comfortable. I personally feel that the 2x2 will be just fine for breeders, and will adjust if *I* deem it necessary later on.
I had thought about the rebar behind the ears. I was just afraid that holding them by the ears would hurt.
You don't hold them by the ears. You hold them by the hind legs or body, and hit them behind the ears. Or you can do it by a method called "broomsticking" (I don't want to go into detail on that, but if you go to Youtube, you can find videos on how to kill and clean a rabbit that show it.)
You don't hold them by the ears. You hold them by the hind legs or body, and hit them behind the ears. Or you can do it by a method called "broomsticking" (I don't want to go into detail on that, but if you go to Youtube, you can find videos on how to kill and clean a rabbit that show it.)
I think they are ready to breed at 5 months.
most people recommend 6 months. Does are often capable of conceiving at as little as 12 weeks, but really aren't mature enough to deal with the stresses of carrying and nursing a litter.
Put the doe into the buck's cage. As he tries she will raise her tail end. If she does not raise for him, she is either not old enough, or sometimes a doe just won't raise. I had a couple that I had to "hold" for the buck, because they would not raise. Nearest I can remember they don't "come into heat" like a dog or cat, I think it is the act of breeding that brings on ovulation. Gosh I wish I could remember, 25 years since I raised rabbits.
Rabbits don't show heat, exactly, but they do have a hormonal cycle that makes them more fertile at some times than at others. If you turn a doe over and evert her vulva (like you are trying to sex a bunny) you can see the color of the inside. The color you are looking for is bright, cherry red. If it is pale pink, put her back in her cage and wait a few days. Purple means you have passed the peak. Some does don't get darker than a deep rose, but the deeper the color, the more likely it is that your doe will breed and conceive. Some does won't raise because they aren't really ready yet. Some may not breed because they are fat, and excess fat confuses the bodies' hormone communication system. Some people that have tried forced breeding report that they don't get very many litters that way, so maybe the does knew best!
I would breed mine and 29 to 31 days I had bunnies.
Most of my does go 32 days. If they go to 35 days, they will probably only kindle one or two, the babies will be huge, and you will probably lose them (may lose the doe as well!)
One thing to note, if a doe has bunnies on the 29th, 30th or 31st day, you could pretty much set your clock by her, always on the same day. Always had the bunnies at night.
well, usually at night. I have witnessed many daylight kindlings too.
You will see them start to pull hair as early as two or three days ahead. Some does never pulled hair until they actually had the bunnies. Make sure you use a good nest box, every now and then you will get a doe that will deliver her bunnies on the wire. Usually if she has them on the wire, even if you get them into the nest box alive, the doe won't nurse them.
A nestbox is really a very artificial simulation of the burrow that a doe instinctively would have dug for herself. Some does simply haven't a clue what that thing is for. Because I do fancy breeds, I probably have more patience with a doe than a meat breeder would, but I have had to teach a few does about nursing their babies in the box. In 20 years of rabbit breeding I have had exactly 1 doe that rejected her litter because of my interference, and only one that savaged hers. I have had a couple of does that had little or no milk, so they of course had to be culled (sold as pets)
I would always breed 4 or 5 sometimes 6 does on the same day, that way if I had one that wouldn't nurse I could split the bunnies up amongst the other does. Also if I had a doe that gave me 4 bunnies and one that gave me 10, I would equalize the number of kits between the does.
The ideal litter size has been shown to be about 6. Too many more, and the kits don't gain weight as fast. Too many fewer, and the kits grow too fat, leading to skeletal and digestive problems. I, too, breed in groups, so there is always a doe or two for backup should something go wrong.
On delivery day, I would limit my trip out to the rabbit cages, some does are extremely nervous, if you upset them they'd have the kits on the wire or actually eat'em.
This seems to depend on how much handling a doe has had. The more she is used to, the more she puts up with!
Anyway I would leave the bunnies with the doe for 4 weeks (I think). The day I removed the bunnies I would breed the doe back, starting the cycle all over again. Some of the guys I knew who raised rabbits would breed the doe back on the 3rd day after they delivered. They would leave the bunnies with the doe 3 weeks. The doe would then have maybe 10 days before she delivered again. That schedule was way to aggressive for me. When talking to them I found out they had many more incidents of delivery on the wire and canabalism.
I would raise the bunnies an additional 4 weeks (or maybe 2 weeks) then they hit the "bunny trail". Sounds about right, everybody seems to have the goal of a 5 lb. fryer at 6 - 8 weeks of age.
Sold dressed fryers for $4 each (1983 money). Did I ever make money, not much, but I never sold breeding stock. Commercial processors want fryers (usually) between 4 and 6 pounds, and generally pay $1 - $1.50/lb live weight.
Back then I fed Purina rabbit chow. They had two types back then, green bag that had 16% protien (I think) and blue bag that had 14%. I always fed the blue bag and supplemented my lactating does with Carnation Calf manna.
Actually, I think this is backwards. When I started with rabbits, I had a pet rabbit that chewed his fur when fed the plain ol' rabbit chow in the green bag. I had to go with the higher protein in the show/breeder formulas (16 -18% protein) to keep him in a good coat. The calf manna is a good idea, because does that are really good milkers can deplete their calcium levels to the point that they die of hypocalcemia
most people recommend 6 months. Does are often capable of conceiving at as little as 12 weeks, but really aren't mature enough to deal with the stresses of carrying and nursing a litter.
Put the doe into the buck's cage. As he tries she will raise her tail end. If she does not raise for him, she is either not old enough, or sometimes a doe just won't raise. I had a couple that I had to "hold" for the buck, because they would not raise. Nearest I can remember they don't "come into heat" like a dog or cat, I think it is the act of breeding that brings on ovulation. Gosh I wish I could remember, 25 years since I raised rabbits.
Rabbits don't show heat, exactly, but they do have a hormonal cycle that makes them more fertile at some times than at others. If you turn a doe over and evert her vulva (like you are trying to sex a bunny) you can see the color of the inside. The color you are looking for is bright, cherry red. If it is pale pink, put her back in her cage and wait a few days. Purple means you have passed the peak. Some does don't get darker than a deep rose, but the deeper the color, the more likely it is that your doe will breed and conceive. Some does won't raise because they aren't really ready yet. Some may not breed because they are fat, and excess fat confuses the bodies' hormone communication system. Some people that have tried forced breeding report that they don't get very many litters that way, so maybe the does knew best!
I would breed mine and 29 to 31 days I had bunnies.
Most of my does go 32 days. If they go to 35 days, they will probably only kindle one or two, the babies will be huge, and you will probably lose them (may lose the doe as well!)
One thing to note, if a doe has bunnies on the 29th, 30th or 31st day, you could pretty much set your clock by her, always on the same day. Always had the bunnies at night.
well, usually at night. I have witnessed many daylight kindlings too.
You will see them start to pull hair as early as two or three days ahead. Some does never pulled hair until they actually had the bunnies. Make sure you use a good nest box, every now and then you will get a doe that will deliver her bunnies on the wire. Usually if she has them on the wire, even if you get them into the nest box alive, the doe won't nurse them.
A nestbox is really a very artificial simulation of the burrow that a doe instinctively would have dug for herself. Some does simply haven't a clue what that thing is for. Because I do fancy breeds, I probably have more patience with a doe than a meat breeder would, but I have had to teach a few does about nursing their babies in the box. In 20 years of rabbit breeding I have had exactly 1 doe that rejected her litter because of my interference, and only one that savaged hers. I have had a couple of does that had little or no milk, so they of course had to be culled (sold as pets)
I would always breed 4 or 5 sometimes 6 does on the same day, that way if I had one that wouldn't nurse I could split the bunnies up amongst the other does. Also if I had a doe that gave me 4 bunnies and one that gave me 10, I would equalize the number of kits between the does.
The ideal litter size has been shown to be about 6. Too many more, and the kits don't gain weight as fast. Too many fewer, and the kits grow too fat, leading to skeletal and digestive problems. I, too, breed in groups, so there is always a doe or two for backup should something go wrong.
On delivery day, I would limit my trip out to the rabbit cages, some does are extremely nervous, if you upset them they'd have the kits on the wire or actually eat'em.
This seems to depend on how much handling a doe has had. The more she is used to, the more she puts up with!
Anyway I would leave the bunnies with the doe for 4 weeks (I think). The day I removed the bunnies I would breed the doe back, starting the cycle all over again. Some of the guys I knew who raised rabbits would breed the doe back on the 3rd day after they delivered. They would leave the bunnies with the doe 3 weeks. The doe would then have maybe 10 days before she delivered again. That schedule was way to aggressive for me. When talking to them I found out they had many more incidents of delivery on the wire and canabalism.
I would raise the bunnies an additional 4 weeks (or maybe 2 weeks) then they hit the "bunny trail". Sounds about right, everybody seems to have the goal of a 5 lb. fryer at 6 - 8 weeks of age.
Sold dressed fryers for $4 each (1983 money). Did I ever make money, not much, but I never sold breeding stock. Commercial processors want fryers (usually) between 4 and 6 pounds, and generally pay $1 - $1.50/lb live weight.
Back then I fed Purina rabbit chow. They had two types back then, green bag that had 16% protien (I think) and blue bag that had 14%. I always fed the blue bag and supplemented my lactating does with Carnation Calf manna.
Actually, I think this is backwards. When I started with rabbits, I had a pet rabbit that chewed his fur when fed the plain ol' rabbit chow in the green bag. I had to go with the higher protein in the show/breeder formulas (16 -18% protein) to keep him in a good coat. The calf manna is a good idea, because does that are really good milkers can deplete their calcium levels to the point that they die of hypocalcemia
As for cage sizing, I will be keeping my dry breeders in the 2'x2'x18" until further notice. If I feel that it's enough for the mature breeders, then I'll only be building grow-outs and litter cages. I don't want to give my rabbits huge manors to live in, I want what is efficient, yet comfortable. I personally feel that the 2x2 will be just fine for breeders, and will adjust if *I* deem it necessary later on.
They are your rabbits, and how you house them is entirely up to you. The 24"x30"x18" size that I mentioned is the industry standard for commercial breeds, and I believe is actually required for commercial rabbitries. IMO, building adequate sized cages at the outset is more efficient of both time and material, than building and replacing as the housing is outgrown. But they are your rabbits, it's your time and money, there's no need to get a chip on your shoulder about it!
They are your rabbits, and how you house them is entirely up to you. The 24"x30"x18" size that I mentioned is the industry standard for commercial breeds, and I believe is actually required for commercial rabbitries. IMO, building adequate sized cages at the outset is more efficient of both time and material, than building and replacing as the housing is outgrown. But they are your rabbits, it's your time and money, there's no need to get a chip on your shoulder about it!
Last edited:
- Mar 9, 2010
- 123
- 1
- 101
well then if they don't sell then you can always eat most of them. Most rabbits where I am at won't sell for that unles they are pedigreed, because people go to the auction barn and pick them up for about $2. That is the going price for non pedigreed rabbits in most places, because people don't want to pay the money for them. If they don't want to do that IMHO they don't need the rabbit. But the weird thing is people won't pay that much from a breeder, but they will fork out $10 or more for mixed bred non quality anything rabbits at the pet shops. Showing was just a suggestion that could bring you a lot more buyers. Good quality meat type rabbits/breeds are in demand nowadays. I just paid $55.00 for a pedigreed newzealand doe at a show saturday, through their 4h auction.
I would breed no earlier then eight months. At five months these rabbits are still jrs(babies). Most meat rabbit breeders don't breed that early anyhow.
Breeding and weaning is also a touchy subject. Babies shouldn't be weaned at four weeks. At that time they are still nursing and 'tasting,' learning to eat their food. Most wean at six to eight weeks and breed the does back a week or too later. That way she isn't getting too stressed out by carrying and nursing a litter at the same time, or getting burned out at am early age by having too many babies. A good breeding doe will produce 4-5 live litters a year, which is more then enough rabbits for one family. Esp if its a big meat breed, who can raise 8-10 babies per litter. So if you do chose to intensely breed back, be careful so you aren't overdoing it with the does.
I would breed no earlier then eight months. At five months these rabbits are still jrs(babies). Most meat rabbit breeders don't breed that early anyhow.
Breeding and weaning is also a touchy subject. Babies shouldn't be weaned at four weeks. At that time they are still nursing and 'tasting,' learning to eat their food. Most wean at six to eight weeks and breed the does back a week or too later. That way she isn't getting too stressed out by carrying and nursing a litter at the same time, or getting burned out at am early age by having too many babies. A good breeding doe will produce 4-5 live litters a year, which is more then enough rabbits for one family. Esp if its a big meat breed, who can raise 8-10 babies per litter. So if you do chose to intensely breed back, be careful so you aren't overdoing it with the does.
Last edited:
Similar threads
New posts New threads Active threads
-
Threads with more replies in the last 15 days
-
-
I culled my first cockerel, now what?- Started by redinator
- Replies: 120
-
*Answer These Questions The Best You Can Please *- Started by N3mesis_IceWing_NightWing
- Replies: 107
-
-
-
