Rat Proof Feeder - Review

Disclaimer: I am not affiliated with this product in any way. Builder is a BYC member and sometimes poster, which is where I discovered the product. I purchased it through their website.

I am posting this in the Predator forum for a couple reasons. One is to address the problem with rats and mice in our coops, which creates yet another problem, and that is I am convinced that a concentration of rats and mice in our coops attract a whole host of other predators that arrive for the rats and mice, then quickly transition to the birds, eggs and chicks. Predators like weasels, snakes, etc.

So this started when I discovered a nest of mice living in the coop. I had been seeing some signs.......tunnels.......rodent feces, barn cats outside the coop staring at the ground around it, etc. Then one day I turned over a hay bale and about a dozen mice boiled up and scattered all over the place. The birds were inside and managed to catch one and what ensued was one of the worst chicken fights I've ever seen. The unlucky mouse was ripped from limb to limb, but it took a while.

Mice were dining on the open feed, plus what the birds were raking out on the ground, which was a lot. Judging from the rate they are eating feed now, maybe half of what they were going through was ending up on the ground, and attracting mice.

So this is the feeder I purchased:

http://ratproofchickenfeeder.com/Medium-Ratproof-Chicken-Feeder_p_1.html

It replaced this feeder, which is maybe 90% the same:

http://www.miller-mfg.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=171267

Build quality of the LG is excellent, but despite claims to the contrary, my birds wasted huge amounts of feed using it. They liked to rake down.....more like hoe straight back.... new feed at the back, and filled up the pan in the process. They ate only new feed that trickled down at the back. So in the process, all the excess feed they dragged down spilled out the front and on to the ground. There is a wire grid in the pan to prevent this, but it is not nearly high enough. It was always buried under the excess feed.

So the RP feeder is very similar in overall size and design, but with a cover in front of the feed pan. Birds must step on the treadle, which opens the cover to the rear, exposing only the feed in the front of the feed pan. Birds can't see the back of the pan (hidden behind the feed cover), so they only eat just inside the front edge. No accumulation of feed to rake or hoe out.

I must admit my first impression of the RP feeder was not a good one. Since this is more or less a sideline project for the builder, build quality is not as good as for the commercially built LG. Materials and workmanship. BUT, it is good enough and it is a better design, so at this point if you gave me the LG and I had to buy the RP, I would buy the RP.

So it was easy to assemble, but I immediately ran into trouble on the install. To prevent the feeder from tipping over, it needs to be installed to a back wall. Builder provides a 2 x 4 block for this purpose, but leave out some critical details on how to do it, which resulted in me doing it wrong the first time. I hung on the wall using holes I found in the sides, which was wrong on two counts. Holes I found were not for hanging the feeder. They were holes punched at the factory for assembly. You have to drill your own holes. Second issue was I simply hung the feeder on the wall, with no support below it. That was also a mistake.

So here is how it should be done. Feeder needs to rest on a solid platform below it. I use deep litter, so I built an elevated platform out of 3 - 4" x 8" x 16" solid cement blocks, capped by 1 full and 1 half sized paving stone.......18" x 18" x 2" thick.

View attachment 1047155 View attachment 1047156 View attachment 1047157 View attachment 1047158

This accomplishes two things. It will hold the feeder to the wall to keep it from tipping, and gives the birds a stable base, so when they step on it, it bottoms out on something solid that does not move. When the feeder was hanging on the wall, with the treadle in open space, it was "jumpy" and birds would not stay on it. It also bangs a lot when it opens and closes, which also makes birds nervous and they would avoid using it. Once set on a solid base, they started using it the same day. One figures it out, and the others, if they are hungry enough, will reach in from the side. The "reachers" eventually come back, step on the treadle, get a meal and from there they are home free.

An improvement over the single block in back would be to use a "French cleat", which would be two blocks. Take a 2 x 6 and rip in lengthwise using a 45 degree rip cut. Then mount one half to the feeder, the other half to the wall at just the right height so when you set the feeder down on the base, the two blocks come back together just as they were before you made the rip cut. This will hold the feeder to the wall to keep it from tipping over from the weight of the birds on the treadle. Not likely when it is full, but could happen when it is nearly empty. The advantage of the French Cleat is the feeder is not fixed to the wall, so can simply be lifted up and out to clean it.....dump it....or clean up the base below it, without having to unscrew anything.

A couple key features of this design. Cover over the feed pans hinges at the top and opens to the rear. Birds cannot see the back joint where feed enters, so don't rake feed out. They can barely reach over the front anyway, so eat at the front. Feed falls down on it's own, so no accumulation of old feed or excess feed. Feed waste is almost nothing, even without the supplemental lip extension, which I ordered but am not using.

Cover is held shut by counterweight, plus a spring, which prevents rats from pushing the cover open. Treadle is out in space, so even if enough rats were to pile up on it to open the cover (not big enough to hold that many rats), they can't reach the feed without hopping off, in which case the cover slams shut before they get anything.

And since this is all metal, they can't chew their way in.

All in all, a great piece of work. I would like to see the treadle bar made of heavier stock....and of stainless steel, but that would increase the cost and it works as it is.

In the end, within a week or so after cleaning out all the old litter, with all the waste feed contained within it, and after installing this contraption, the mice moved on. There is no sign of them in there now. And since that was the goal, I'd say the thing works as advertised.
Hi. I have one and it works. I also came up with an idea for the spillage. The feeder will sit on top of this.

Cut some 2x4's to equal 4 that are 24-30 inch long. Attach the 2x4's to make a 4 sided frame. On the bottom, close it with some wood or panel. On the top side staple a fitting piece of hardware cloth (I think 1/2 inch grid holes).

What you should end up with is a square frame that is about 3.5 inches high with the bottom side closed and the top covered with hardware cloth. The waste will fall into the frame and be collected under the hardware cloth. You can turn it over to empty it.

This item works well with the round feeders too as long as you remove the feeder to rat proof storage .
 
Still no issues with the feeder. Continues work as before. I never did have rats, but did have mice and this feeder solved that problem. It eliminated the waste feed issue entirely.

You might talk to the builder about using it with ducks. I assume it would work the same. The only issue I can think of might be the treadle bar might need to be a bit larger.
May be a strange question, but have you had any birds not standing on the treadle have their heads inside when the bird on the treadle steps off, so the other hen gets the door closed on her??
 
May be a strange question, but have you had any birds not standing on the treadle have their heads inside when the bird on the treadle steps off, so the other hen gets the door closed on her??
Hello,
I'll answer that question for you.
The door swings in, not down, so a hen would have her head pushed out of the way should that happen as her body and head would be reaching in from the side toward the center of the feeder. A good idea is to block both sides of the feeder using a couple of cinder blocks or a couple of milk jugs filled with water or sand, forcing all birds to come in straight ahead.

So yes, it could happen, but it is unlikely that their head would become trapped unlike a guillotine style feeder like the Grandpa feeder or another of the Chinese made clones.

That said, here in Oklahoma we have a saying: Farm animals are never completely safe around moving machinery or Oklahoma State Senators. The risks of having vermin around a flock are greater than the risk of a treadle feeder.
 
Hello,
I'll answer that question for you.
The door swings in, not down, so a hen would have her head pushed out of the way should that happen as her body and head would be reaching in from the side toward the center of the feeder. A good idea is to block both sides of the feeder using a couple of cinder blocks or a couple of milk jugs filled with water or sand, forcing all birds to come in straight ahead.

So yes, it could happen, but it is unlikely that their head would become trapped unlike a guillotine style feeder like the Grandpa feeder or another of the Chinese made clones.

That said, here in Oklahoma we have a saying: Farm animals are never completely safe around moving machinery or Oklahoma State Senators. The risks of having vermin around a flock are greater than the risk of a treadle feeder.
Im so happy i searched this topic and found you @Al Gerhart ! I have a very small flock (6-8) and at the first hint of vermin, got a treadle feeder and never looked back. The one i have is from tractor supply with the green top. You are right on about plastic parts! They cant get in it because it latches, but things with teeth have chewed holes in the top and it is no longer weatherproof!

I am thrilled to find your treadle because i need another and know that all-steel is the way to go. I have tried them all but no success. The one i hoped would work was the guillotine type. My 8wk olds wont go near it. Noisy, flimsy, not weatherproof. Looking forward to trying yours!
 
Good on you for being so proactive on the rodents but sad that some inferior products wasted your hard earned money. That Dutch feeder with the green plastic parts is certainly being dumped in the U.S. after it developed a bad reputation in the EU. They actually make some versions of that feeder in all metal.

Keep in mind that the two treadle feeders you have tried weren't rat proof, in that they had wide treadle steps close into the feed, and the doors aren't spring pre loaded to prevent rodents from pushing the door open. This door is going to be harder to open, it has to be, so you need some full size birds to operate the feeder and it HAS to be secured to a wall or post or staked down to the ground. But your birds will need enough reach and enough weight for this feeder to do its job.

Past that, the chickens HAVE to be hungry during training. IF you follow the directions, they will learn in a few hours or less for some of the birds and those will teach the others.

One other thing, use at least three patio blocks under the feeder so the birds have a comfortable spot to stand in front of the feeder before they step on the treadle with one foot while standing on the other foot.
 

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