Starting a coop build, it is my first build and first chickens so feedback is very welcome

[IdyllwildAcres]

condensation inside the coop, moist spots, and smelling ammonia as the criteria for not enough ventilation?

Seems like reasonable criteria to me, all of those things can be minimized or avoided with ventilation

 

[saysfaa]

"The odor threshold for ammonia, where it can be detected by humans, is approximately 20 ppm" from https://www.rcsystemsco.com/toxic-a...e detected by humans, is approximately 20 ppm.

"the present experiment also suggested that the standard limit of ammonia concentration in adult poultry house is 15 ppm." From https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0032579120308762?via=ihub

Considering my nose is about five feet higher than a hen's beak from the greatest concentrations, I don't think I can know it is ok by not being able to smell it.

These are the first sources I found that try to objectively measure and study this. I know there are others that looked for subclinical effects... such as growth rates and length of productive life in chickens that show chicken health is compromised even at concentrations too low to result in overt signs.

 

[Sally PB]

We need more coop pages of carefully-thought-through designs.

Yes. So many creative people on here with good ideas.

 

[saysfaa]

Nest box ideas, just gathering of info so far...

Yesterday, I went on a scavenger hunt at my family's farm for next box options. I was looking for two or three objects that either match or go together, the right size, sturdy enough, not too heavy, ease of using for nests (i.e. can be nailed/stacked or do I need to make a frame), ventilated (maybe), preferably a rounded bottom or can accommodate a dirt box bottom, slight preference for not plastic, not of significant value to my siblings, and that I like.

I brought home broken wooden crates, some enamel pans, and some willow sprouts.

In looking for others who have used these materials, I found these
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/how-do-these-nest-boxes-look.608069/

http://simplelifeainteasy.blogspot.com/2012/01/last-minute-nest-boxes-what-should-have.html?m=1

https://littlehouseinthesuburbs.com/2009/04/nesting-box-from-pallet.html

And came across this: http://smalltownmumma.blogspot.com/2014/06/backyard-diy-part-3-chicken-nesting-box.html?m=1
There is a LOT of pvc lengths and connects I could bring back next time I go and use instead of the bamboo. If the crates don't work.

 

[aart]

Crates could work well, need decent sized(4-6") fronts on them tho.
The others not so much....especially the bamboo with all the rags hanging from it.

 

[saysfaa]

The latches for the door that stays closed most of the time are done. For the bottom, we drilled a second hole overlapping the hole for the bolt latch the shed came with. For the top, we installed a 4" bolt latch vertically. I also have a chain a few inches long bolted to the header over the door that reaches to an eye in the door. Each of them is awkward to use but that door doesn't have to be used much.

Also finished the platform. I know the general concensus is that chickens don't stack well. But I had the shipping crate/pallet in the way and pieces that worked for legs. So, I tried it. It is a 30"x36" box about 6" deep on 32" legs (measured to the top of the box). I filled it with bedding and slide it a few inched under the middle of the poop board. They are using it as square feet of floor space and as a perch. It still may be used to support the nests. Or not. We will see as the nests take shape and as I see how the platform works out as it is.

The crates are deconstructed down to the (now nail-free) parts still in good enough shape to use.

 

[3KillerBs]

Also finished the platform. I know the general concensus is that chickens don't stack well. But I had the shipping crate/pallet in the way and pieces that worked for legs. So, I tried it. It is a 30"x36" box about 6" deep on 32" legs (measured to the top of the box). I filled it with bedding and slide it a few inched under the middle of the poop board. They are using it as square feet of floor space and as a perch. It still may be used to support the nests. Or not. We will see as the nests take shape and as I see how the platform works out as it is.

I'd say it counts as useful clutter.

 

[saysfaa]

Temporary nests are in.

I want them raised, with framed platforms above and below. Above to add space for them to walk or rest on and below to hold the bedding.

But this will test the size and the concept of the two boxes facing each other. And time is a lot shorter than my to-do list.

The shavings on top doesn't work without the frame to hold at least some of them in when they scratch at them.

 

[saysfaa]

Nutmeg went all the way in for a look. Coco and Mocha are going only as far as their shoulders. Oh, I think I better raise the roof - as soon as Spice jumped up there, Coco ran. I know they don't like banging very much.

 

[saysfaa]

...My sister has built a dozen or so houses; she recommends Dunham's water putty as a wood filler. I plan to use that for the gaps. I'm working on what paint to use. So far, exterior acrylic primer looks like the best choice for raw wood and for rough sawn and for wood with knots but I'm not sure. I do know I want solid color rather than transparent stain.

Turns out, she uses it inside where it doesn't get the temperature swings my shed will have. We don't think the Durhams's water putty will flex. I think that means it will either fall out or crack the surrounding wood.

Netsearching conclusion of the better and best sources is that nothing will work to stabilize knots, even if they don't have the bark around them like many of mine do. Maybe we should have refused delivery of this shed because of poor quality of the boards but too late for that now. Most times I dig into this, I conclude the best of the choices seems to be acrylic caulk for the gaps too big for paint to fill.

I think I found a better choice, except cost, maybe. Sarco glazing putty. I was looking for a way to restore the old salvage windows because it turns out the new barn sash windows from Menards are not solid wood in the way I thought. Each side (can't remember top and bottom but think those also) has about a third of the depth of the frame removed.

Sarco glazing putty adheres well, seals well, and stays flexible. People who restore vintage windows for historic houses say it will last fifty years. That is people on several websites and said in different ways so I believe it. It is a couple of times more expensive than caulk or wood filler. That seems reasonable to me if it means I don't have to replace boards or redo the knots/bark issues.

It takes weeks to cure enough to paint. That is a problem for using it this year. Cold won't hurt the putty as it cures but it needs paint after it cures. Paint won't take the cold we will have here by then.