The Buckeye Thread

[FireAntFarmer]

That depends on the hen. Some will give up after a few days if you keep taking eggs, some will continue sitting on this air and steal whatever eggs they can find. If you give her eggs to sit on, she'll stay put and I have seen really determined broodies sitting on infertile eggs for up to 3 months. It really is better for the hen if you can break her broodiness asap, unless you want her to hatch some eggs for you. Keep taking the eggs away for a few days and see if that helps, if not, put her in a wire bottomed cage with only food and water, no nesting materials, until she snaps out of it. This method takes on average 3 days to work.

Broodiness and hatching chicks is all about hormones and instinct for hens. I wouldn't say for sure they know what to expect when they sit on the eggs, especially first time broodies. I remember my first ever broody mom, when her first chick hatched, she flew off that nest like a jet fighter. I had to go pull her out of a tree and return her to the eggs and the poor chick, who was thankfully unharmed. She turned out to be a wonderful mother, but that first birth experience scared the hay out of her.

Thanks for the advise. I had no idea the instinct to "nest sit" would be so strong. She is full blown broody now and refuses to get up and leave the coop. I have to steal the eggs she has stolen every morning. I think I will have to build a "broody breaker" cage. It is so sad to watch her be so diligent and to no good end.

 

[amandarc]

It's so encouraging to see folks who are able to get their chicks and hatching eggs locally, you should always support your local breeders. Once upon a time and in other parts of our nation Buckeyes are not so common and folks have to order their eggs or chicks shipped. If you're one of the unfortunate few that don't have a local breeder, be sure to ask after their shipping methods.  Hatching eggs should be individually wrapped and double boxed, chicks should be shipped express mail to ensure 2 day delivery. Request gro-gel to be included in their box in case there's an unexpected delay. I heard a sad story today of some poor soul who received chicks shipped priority instead of express. It took USPS 3 full business days to deliver (there's no guarantee of delivery time) and every poor little chick was DOA.

I'm chiming in on this thread bc I'm a newbie and have been encouraged to but chicks locally. However, even on the where are you? thread for Georgia I can't seem to find people who breed a variety of birds, specifically great laying hens. I really don't want my chicks mailed to me. Anyone know a contact in Georgia? Thanks

 

[autumnhearth]

We have one "rooster". Get it? Only one in the picture on the perch. But seriously, practicing crowing or adjusting something in his/her crop, over and over again...

 

[Sydney Acres]

Quote:
The wire bottom cage is the best known gold standard for breaking a brood, but my main breed (Red Dorking) has a very heavy hen that broods frequently, so I didn't want them on wire. I tried many of the other well known techniques and nothing worked. Eventually I found a very reliable technique that doesn't require a wire bottom cage, but works just as well.

Build a small wire run. Mine is about 30" wide, 30" high, and 5' long. It is made out of 1X2" welded wire, just four side panels held together by cable ties (it could be made out of other materials, but this is very stable because of the frequent welds, and has lasted for almost 10 years). The top is divided into two parts. Half is attached by cable ties on the sides and one end. The other half is about 4" longer than the remaining opening on top. One end is cable tied onto the first half (the only remaining unattached edge of the top's first half, spanning across the center of the run), so that it can open and close like a hatch. The other end has the extra length bent down over the end side panel so that the hatch doesn't fall down into the run. I prevent the hatch from opening with a simple latch, which isn't usually necessary, but one hen years ago figured out that she could get out of the run by repeatedly flying up into the hatch until it opened. There is no bottom on the run. It is very lightweight, very secure, and easy to move. It was easy and cheap to build, and can be disassembled and stored flat when not in use, if desired.

My birds free range. I put the run somewhere on the property where the broody cannot see her nest, or anything near her nest. I chose an area that is protected from the weather so she won't get too hot, too cold, or wet, and is very safe from predators and harassment. There should ideally be some dirt to dustbathe, and some grass to graze, but that's not essential. What is absolutely necessary is that there not be anything on the ground that can be used to build a nest -- no leaves, no straw, no shavings, no dry grass, no bedding of any kind. Just food, water, plain ground to sit on, enough room to pace a little as the brood starts to transition out, and no reminder or sight of her nest or eggs. At night I put her in a pet carrier with cardboard on the bottom, covered with a towel, and put her in the garage (or barn, or coop, or spare bedroom -- just somewhere that is no where near her nest, and is 100% predator proof). I've had 100% success at breaking broods with this method, with 90% of hens taking 3-4 days, and the remaining hens taking either 2 or 5-6 days. And no wire pressed into the plucked, bare brood spot on their chest.

 

[FireAntFarmer]

The wire bottom cage is the best known gold standard for breaking a brood, but my main breed (Red Dorking) has a very heavy hen that broods frequently, so I didn't want them on wire. I tried many of the other well known techniques and nothing worked. Eventually I found a very reliable technique that doesn't require a wire bottom cage, but works just as well.

Build a small wire run. Mine is about 30" wide, 30" high, and 5' long. It is made out of 1X2" welded wire, just four side panels held together by cable ties (it could be made out of other materials, but this is very stable because of the frequent welds, and has lasted for almost 10 years). The top is divided into two parts. Half is attached by cable ties on the sides and one end. The other half is about 4" longer than the remaining opening on top. One end is cable tied onto the first half (the only remaining unattached edge of the top's first half, spanning across the center of the run), so that it can open and close like a hatch. The other end has the extra length bent down over the end side panel so that the hatch doesn't fall down into the run. I prevent the hatch from opening with a simple latch, which isn't usually necessary, but one hen years ago figured out that she could get out of the run by repeatedly flying up into the hatch until it opened. There is no bottom on the run. It is very lightweight, very secure, and easy to move. It was easy and cheap to build, and can be disassembled and stored flat when not in use, if desired.

My birds free range. I put the run somewhere on the property where the broody cannot see her nest, or anything near her nest. I chose an area that is protected from the weather so she won't get too hot, too cold, or wet, and is very safe from predators and harassment. There should ideally be some dirt to dustbathe, and some grass to graze, but that's not essential. What is absolutely necessary is that there not be anything on the ground that can be used to build a nest -- no leaves, no straw, no shavings, no dry grass, no bedding of any kind. Just food, water, plain ground to sit on, enough room to pace a little as the brood starts to transition out, and no reminder or sight of her nest or eggs. At night I put her in a pet carrier with cardboard on the bottom, covered with a towel, and put her in the garage (or barn, or coop, or spare bedroom -- just somewhere that is no where near her nest, and is 100% predator proof). I've had 100% success at breaking broods with this method, with 90% of hens taking 3-4 days, and the remaining hens taking either 2 or 5-6 days. And no wire pressed into the plucked, bare brood spot on their chest.

Too cool!!!

I have an abundance of 36" 1 x2 wire and excellent cutting pliers and a large pack of zip ties. I see success just around the corner!

 

[Sydney Acres]

Quote:
Please keep us posted on your success. I'd love to know how this works for other people.

 

[Minniechickmama]

We have one "rooster". Get it? Only one in the picture on the perch. But seriously, practicing crowing or adjusting something in his/her crop, over and over again...

I only see that kind of behavior if something is wrong with a bird. Is it acting okay? Is its feathers ruffled up at all?

 

[FireAntFarmer]

Please keep us posted on your success. I'd love to know how this works for other people.

will do!

 

[Minniechickmama]

I am thinking about building a battery of 'broody breakers'.
This is just the beginning. I had 8 of these Cochins in one pen that were all broody at the same time last year.

 

[sumi]

We have one "rooster". Get it? Only one in the picture on the perch. But seriously, practicing crowing or adjusting something in his/her crop, over and over again...

Is it making sounds when it does that and if so what does it sound like? Is it eating and drinking? I had a young chick doing something like that once. She made this terrible honking sound, I can't really describe it. It turned out she had something stuck in her throat and couldn't eat.