The Great Tomato Experiment: Does Pruning Effect Fruit Quality?

[hennible]

PH effects nutrient up take as well.

 

[Ridgerunner]

A soils analysis will tell you what nutrients you have and the pH of the soil. Your County Extension agent can tell you how to get that done. In Arkansas that’s a free service but each state is different. There might be a charge where you are.

Most soils have plenty of calcium unless you are growing in sand. If you use compost that has a component of chicken manure you almost certainly have plenty of calcium in your soil. Hens don’t absorb all the calcium they eat, a lot goes right on through their system and out the back end.

The main cause of Blossom End Rot is not a lack of calcium in the soil, it’s that the calcium is not getting to the fruit. That’s normally because of water, either too much or too little. If it is too dry there is not enough water flow moving calcium to the fruit. If it is too wet the amount of calcium in the water is too small. The best way to fight BER is to keep the soil uniformly damp, not too dry or too wet. Mulching really helps with this plus keeps diseases in the ground from splashing up on the plants and infecting them. I’m a big believer in mulching.

The pH of the soil is a big factor too. The nutrients are moved from the soil to the plant by chemistry. If the pH is too high or too low then the chemistry gets messed up. A soils analysis should give you recommendations on that too.

Certain tomato varieties are more prone to BER, I’ve certainly noticed that. I had not heard that about the shape causing it but it makes sense. Yellow pears and most paste tomatoes are generally the worst and they have that elongated shape.

 

[shortgrass]

A soils analysis will tell you what nutrients you have and the pH of the soil. Your County Extension agent can tell you how to get that done. In Arkansas that’s a free service but each state is different. There might be a charge where you are.

Most soils have plenty of calcium unless you are growing in sand. If you use compost that has a component of chicken manure you almost certainly have plenty of calcium in your soil. Hens don’t absorb all the calcium they eat, a lot goes right on through their system and out the back end.

The main cause of Blossom End Rot is not a lack of calcium in the soil, it’s that the calcium is not getting to the fruit. That’s normally because of water, either too much or too little. If it is too dry there is not enough water flow moving calcium to the fruit. If it is too wet the amount of calcium in the water is too small. The best way to fight BER is to keep the soil uniformly damp, not too dry or too wet. Mulching really helps with this plus keeps diseases in the ground from splashing up on the plants and infecting them. I’m a big believer in mulching.

The pH of the soil is a big factor too. The nutrients are moved from the soil to the plant by chemistry. If the pH is too high or too low then the chemistry gets messed up. A soils analysis should give you recommendations on that too.

Certain tomato varieties are more prone to BER, I’ve certainly noticed that. I had not heard that about the shape causing it but it makes sense. Yellow pears and most paste tomatoes are generally the worst and they have that elongated shape.

Yes...wow, x2

Ph is the first point in checking nutrient disorders. Ph can lockout nutrients if its isnt at optimal ph...

Also, too much potassium or nitrogen can lock out calcium. Phosphorus is the catalyst calcium needs..

Calcium shouldn't be deficient; there is almost always a problem with ph or nutrient dispersement, causing lockout.

Over watering can also cause the plantb to not be able to absorb the calcium and phosphorus, leading again, to lock out... And later, iron chlorosis from thr plant not being able to use the phosphorus.

Plants are tricky. The more love you give them in the form of soluble/insoluble chemical fertilizers, the more damage can occur..

I don't add ANY nutrients while my plants are actively growing. I'm certified organic. Theres just no need for me to amend..My soil does it for me

 

[hippiestink]

I wish I had an extension office. We're in Belgium.

A soils analysis will tell you what nutrients you have and the pH of the soil. Your County Extension agent can tell you how to get that done. In Arkansas that’s a free service but each state is different. There might be a charge where you are.

Most soils have plenty of calcium unless you are growing in sand. If you use compost that has a component of chicken manure you almost certainly have plenty of calcium in your soil. Hens don’t absorb all the calcium they eat, a lot goes right on through their system and out the back end.

The main cause of Blossom End Rot is not a lack of calcium in the soil, it’s that the calcium is not getting to the fruit. That’s normally because of water, either too much or too little. If it is too dry there is not enough water flow moving calcium to the fruit. If it is too wet the amount of calcium in the water is too small. The best way to fight BER is to keep the soil uniformly damp, not too dry or too wet. Mulching really helps with this plus keeps diseases in the ground from splashing up on the plants and infecting them. I’m a big believer in mulching.

The pH of the soil is a big factor too. The nutrients are moved from the soil to the plant by chemistry. If the pH is too high or too low then the chemistry gets messed up. A soils analysis should give you recommendations on that too.

Certain tomato varieties are more prone to BER, I’ve certainly noticed that. I had not heard that about the shape causing it but it makes sense. Yellow pears and most paste tomatoes are generally the worst and they have that elongated shape.

I wish I had an extension office. We're in Belgium. I can usually do pH testing myself, but nutrients are based on my knowledge of the compost and fertilizer I add to the soil.

Yes...wow, x2

Ph is the first point in checking nutrient disorders. Ph can lockout nutrients if its isnt at optimal ph...

Also, too much potassium or nitrogen can lock out calcium. Phosphorus is the catalyst calcium needs..

Calcium shouldn't be deficient; there is almost always a problem with ph or nutrient dispersement, causing lockout.

Over watering can also cause the plantb to not be able to absorb the calcium and phosphorus, leading again, to lock out... And later, iron chlorosis from thr plant not being able to use the phosphorus.

Plants are tricky. The more love you give them in the form of soluble/insoluble chemical fertilizers, the more damage can occur..

I don't add ANY nutrients while my plants are actively growing. I'm certified organic. Theres just no need for me to amend..My soil does it for me

The organic fertilizer I make has egg shell, coffee grounds, blood from chickens, and urine all steeped in a "compost tea" (gross but it works usually). I'm all organic, no chemical. The issue is probably the TYPE of tomato (Roma VF). Next year I'll be doing this in the ground, since it's container gardening and not in-ground gardening that I'm doing this year.

Well that tears it. Romas aren't going to be grown next year. Found another one with end rot. My round tomatoes are all fine, it's just that one that keeps getting it time and time again. Only proving that my heirloom types are superior to the regular shelf-variety seeds, as the seeds I keep having issues with are all from a certain name brand I will not name and not the types I bought from organic non GMO heirloom seed providers on Etsy. Got rain again today, so no watering. It's been raining most of the week so I haven't ben watering anything.

 

[oldhenlikesdogs]

I think I get more blossom end rot when it's a rainy year, so maybe that's what's going on, just a though. Didn't know you were in Belgium, sounds nice, how's the waffles, my bad joke, sorry.

 

[shortgrass]

I wish I had an extension office. We're in Belgium.

I wish I had an extension office. We're in Belgium. I can usually do pH testing myself, but nutrients are based on my knowledge of the compost and fertilizer I add to the soil.
The organic fertilizer I make has egg shell, coffee grounds, blood from chickens, and urine all steeped in a "compost tea" (gross but it works usually). I'm all organic, no chemical. The issue is probably the TYPE of tomato (Roma VF). Next year I'll be doing this in the ground, since it's container gardening and not in-ground gardening that I'm doing this year. 

Well that tears it. Romas aren't going to be grown next year. Found another one with end rot. My round tomatoes are all fine, it's just that one that keeps getting it time and time again. Only proving that my heirloom types are superior to the regular shelf-variety seeds, as the seeds I keep having issues with are all from a certain name brand I will not name and not the types I bought from organic non GMO heirloom seed providers on Etsy. Got rain again today, so no watering. It's been raining most of the week so I haven't ben watering anything.

Do you add anything for phosphorus in your tea? That's a pretty hot load of Nitrogen... Maybe some high P Guano would help out... I also vermicompost; its a lot lighter amendment, and I load my worm bin with banana peels for added potassium....

Sounds like the romas are just not as resistant as the others... I've had that issue; when my soil wasn't optimal, mybromas took a serious hit, but the others managed to get along fine.... Hybrid bred the resistance right out of them

I use Juliet Romas now...still a hybrid, and smaller fruit, but way better resistance

 

[hippiestink]

Yeah I add banana peel to the soil itself early in the season, before the last frost date. also use a phosphorus heavy compost.

 

[hippiestink]

Tomatoes were set back because of the cold rainy weather but they're enjoying the sun we have now. First clear day in two weeks. August is about when the weather begins to be a little colder so I'm anxiously watching those tomatoes. Frost isn't due until November though so I'm not worried. Also it seems my spate of blossom end rot is at an end, though the Romas occasionally get rot. Romas are officially out for next year, and I'm collecting cuttings from the IR to overwinter.

Love the color on my IRs and the color kinda weirds out my friends and family. I'll be sure to grow more, they're very hardy and I'm sure if I bother to control them they'll produce nicely. The RBSM's are also wonderful, with nice-sized fruit and overall lovely compactness. The Romas have been the only disappointment. I won't be growing those again.

Received Tiny Tim tomato seed so I'll be growing that instead and I'll have a few varieties next year from a "surprise mix" I got as a gift from Box Garden Organics. I highly recommend them, they specialize in odd heirloom tomato cultivars with other container garden-friendly plants.

 

[hippiestink]

Some of the half-ripe Roma tomatoes had blossom end rot and had to be picked and thrown to the chickens. One RBSM and two Roma tomatoes were full size but still green, so I cut the vine and took them inside to ripen. The results of the experiment will soon be in!

 

[hippiestink]

First ripened tomato: Off large pruned RBSM plant.

Taste was very tomato-y. Acidic, robust flavor. Didn't like it raw but made it into spaghetti sauce and LOVED it.

Waiting on my others to ripen and I'll keep everyone updated.