Topic of the week - Winter Chicken Keeping

I have put in a red heat lap in my coop and had my husband attach it to the beam so it would not fall and catch fire, This gives them the extra light they need to still keep laying along with the warmth they need but the red keeps them from pecking each other. I have purchased some straw bales from our local feed store and created some weather protection areas for them to go when they are in the run playing, I placed a couple of the bales down on the ground then stacked two of them side by side on top. I did this a few times throughout the run and they love it, they not only go in the holes out of the weather but climb all over it for something to do. I will be making the run bigger and adding more straw bales for them before the snow hits here. As for feeding my little girls, I have added black sun flowers, freeze dried meal worms and cabbage in addition to the layer pellets I feed daily.
 
Added heat: The decision to add extra heat or not was a subject I agonized over. My final decision was to add heat. The last couple of mornings the wind chill has been a factor and combined with the cold temperature I am happy with my decision. I purchased the Sweeter heater and installed them in both coops. I did keep the black bulb in both coops and use it in conjunction with the heater. The bulb unit has been secured to a beam and I wipe the entire unit daily so no dust will accumulate. Both heater and bulb is plugged into a surge protector. When I went to the coops this morning it was brutally cold. The thermometer in the pullet coop read 35ish and the rooster coop read 30. It's not summer conditions but it definately takes the bite out which was my goal. Chickies appeared comfy. Baring in mind I do have 10 week old Silkies and 15 week old bantam breeds with the pullets. Regardless of this fact, I would supply heat. Not only will it keep my chickies more comfortable but it gives me peace of mind that they will not have the threat of frostbite. This will also keep their water from freezing. Of course, if the power should go out they need to be placed on generator power. They get exposed to the cold conditions when out in the run or free ranging.

Run: this weekend I will winterize the run so they will be sheltered from the wind and snow. I didn't do it when I winterized the coop because I wasn't certain until now on the specifics of how to keep the plastic up. I have incorporated the deep litter method in the runs. They dust bathe and scratch in the material. I give them scratch in a bucket and throw some on the ground so the can dig for it, keeping them occupied.

Eggs: The nesting material is kept deep for their comfort and added warmth. I collect the eggs at the end of each day. A couple of times a day on the weekend since I'm home.
 
- Do adult birds need additional heat (heaters, heat lamps) or not and if so, when? I.e. when is it TOO cold?
No, I do not prefer to use additional heat for my flock. Chickens adapt to cooler weather over time, and when they always have heat they will never become true cold hardy birds. Fire is also a risk here. Now, if there is a sudden drop in temperature using additional (safe!) heat is okay.

- How do you prevent frostbite on your birds' combs and feet?
I always make sure their coop isn't damp, and when cold weather hits I usually use just a little bit of Vaseline on their combs and wattles. And for their feet, I just make sure they have nice, wide roosts so their breasts feathers cover their feet.

- How to best kit out the coop (and run) for winter - ventilation, insulation, moisture management, etc.
In the winter, when it comes to ventilation I just make sure the coop has a few vents for good ventilation. I also have a big screen window that I put insulation in when it gets below freezing. And for moisture management, I remove any damp patches of bedding, fix any leaking waterers, and keep vents so all of the moisture as a place to vent back out.

- How to keep their water from freezing.
To keep my flocks waterer from freezing, I would suggest having a few waterers in stock, so when one freezes in the morning, you can take in and let it thaw out. And when the evening comes and the other waterer is frozen, take that one in and replace it with the other one.

- How to keep their eggs from freezing.
Gather eggs often! Don't let them stay out long enough to freeze.

- Keeping the flock happy and amused when they are confined to the coop by heavy snow, storms, etc.
Keeping your flock amused in the winter can be a challenge. I have chicken toys that I fill with treats, my chickens get a kick out of those! And putting greens, hay, scratch, and treats in the run helps with boredom.
 
- Do adult birds need additional heat (heaters, heat lamps) or not and if so, when? I.e. when is it TOO cold?

No, they do not need heat. Chickens convert food calories into heat energy similar to wood and gas burning produces heat. It's never too cold for chickens as long as they're adequately fed.

However, I had a sick hen who had trouble completing her molt and was nearly naked all winter. I put a heat lamp in the run (sand, so no fire danger) so she could warm up under it. But at night, she sandwiched between others for warmth.

- How do you prevent frostbite on your birds' combs and feet?

Keep the coop and run as dry as possible.

However, I have vertical nipple waterers. I block them off from use during single digit days and bring in conventional plastic jug/tray waterers so combs and feet aren't getting wet when they drink.

- How to best kit out the coop (and run) for winter - ventilation, insulation, moisture management, etc.

My coops are insulated. They are vented into the covered run. I do not allow poop to accumulate so this reduces the amount of moisture in my coops.

- How to keep their water from freezing.

I'm trying something new this winter. I folded a small heating pad over the water taps (Bright Tap vertical nipples) and fastened it with string against the Igloo water container. I wrapped water heater insulation around the entire thing and secured it from chicken beaks by slipping a wool bag over it, tucked in around the bottom. It's worked so far as temps dove to 19F. It remains to be seen how it works when the really cold temps hit.

- How to keep their eggs from freezing.

That's so easy. Just pick them up before they freeze. If you work and can't collect them until evening, slip a heating pad under the nesting material in the nest box. Blooie will agree heating pads are good for much more than just brooding chicks.
lau.gif


- Keeping the flock happy and amused when they are confined to the coop by heavy snow, storms, etc.

My chickens have a covered run with rigid, double-walled plastic panels all around to protect from even the worst weather. The roof panels let in sunlight as do permanent glass side panels so the run heats up during the day when the sun is out, and it's often very pleasant in there even when the outside temp isn't fit for humans. The sand in the run acts as a heat sink, further keeping the run comfortable, and helps to mitigate the temperature in the adjoining coops.

As entertainment director, I supply fresh squash all winter long, hang jumbo carrots from strings for them to nibble at, and there are always flock blocks to scratch at, too. No one gets bored. Including me.
 
We live in the Pacific Northwest of the United States where rain and wind are normal winter conditions with low temperatures on average of 35 to 45 degrees fahrenheit. This combination makes our winters cold, damp and down right nasty at times; so on the few days each month we have sunshine it's a real joy for everyone, chickens and farmers alike to be outside in the fresh air and sunshine. Our elevation is 171 feet above sea level and about 12 miles from the Columbia River. Weather here can change quickly (within a few hours) and our proximity to the Columbia Gorge can mean high winds above 30 mph with temperatures well below freezing. So being prepared for winter weather variables is our goal.

We raised our hens from 4-day old chicks and they have been laying consistently for 9-months. We stared August 12, 2015 and kept the chickens in the barn all winter because we didn't have an outside run finished. During the summer we moved the chickens to an elevated modular coop on the back deck under cover and somewhat sheltered from the wind where they could get fresh air and the whole family could sit and enjoy them. This arrangement worked out so well that we decided to leave the chickens on the back deck and create a Hen House within the larger coop to protect them from winter weather. The following set of pictures show the improvement we made to the 36 sq. ft. coop. Plywood will be added to the 3'x4' modular coop panels when needed and we have heat lamps ready when the temperature drops below freezing. In the meantime we enjoy as much sunshine and mild temperatures as we can get.

For your information I was raised on a small farm here in Clark County that had 40 chickens for eggs and meat along with other poultry and livestock. This backyard hobby of egg farming is fun, but quite a departure from what my parents taught me back in the 1940's and 50's.



Front view of coop on covered back deck.


Hen hydrator refills automatically without any involvement on our part.


Nest box and grit dispenser.


Nest box attached to hen house clean-out door.


Inside view of hen house roost.


Inside view of hen house showing indirect ventilation at floor.


Indirect wall ventilation allows air into coop plus 8" x 10" door.


Esther watching me take pictures.

700

Top of hen house is normally opened for exhaust ventilation, but can be partially closed.


Inside view of hen house with thermometer at 59 degrees.


Chicken feeder and grit dispenser.


Back view of coop and hen house. Water hose will be replaced with insulated pipe.
 
Last edited:
-Heat lamps are a huge fire risk.
Actually there is a heat lamp that does not catch on fire and doesn't overheat. It's called the Prima Heat lamp by premier1Supplies.
 
Thanks for the information, I plan to purchase one of these heat lamps. https://www.premier1supplies.com/img/product/pdf/Heat Lamp Prima (Black)IT.pdf
Really - you are doing them a disservice by putting in a heat lamp. They don't need it. Imagine putting on your winter coat, snowpants, boots, hat, scarf and gloves and going outside for an hour or two, or all day if you wish. Now, come back in. Don't take off any of your gear. Leave it on for a good two hours. How comfortable is that? Now think about your chickens. They have their winter gear on all day every day. They can't take it off when they come inside. If they're properly acclimated to your weather, they're going to be too warm in their winter coats with the heat on inside their house. If you don't let them outside, keep heat on them so they're not properly acclimated, imagine how cold and uncomfortable they're going to be if for some reason you lose electricity and they not only don't have heat in their house, they also don't have their built in down coats because they weren't allowed to grow them. More than anything, they need a well-ventilated coop that keeps them out of the weather and doesn't have a draft that blows directly on them.

I'm in MN and it is below freezing here for most of the winter. No heat, windows open part way and pop door open all the way so they can go in and out until it gets way below zero (like in the teens) for several days and nights on end. No serious frostbite issues since I quit closing up their coop tight and putting in a heat lamp.
 
I just added a bale of hay to my coop and the chickens are loving it! I covered any areas I thought cold air might be coming through but left the vents at the top clear. Anytime I pick up one of my chickens... well... they are little heaters! Packed together I am sure they are more than warm!

The only thing I plan on adding is a natural light bulb on a timer to encourage more egg laying. (they tend to be freeloaders)
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom