What type of meat birds for self sufficiency.

There is a lot of good information in that post but the OP (Original Poster) specifically said:

I have seen that the Cornish hybrids seem to be the best if I'm going to be ordering them each time I want meat. What birds do you suggest if I want to breed them and use them for meat, so that my flock is self-sufficient.

Crombienator recognizes that the hybrid meat birds are the most cost efficient, you won’t get a lot of argument from me on that, but want to hatch their own. I’ll try to address that question specifically.

Self-sufficient can mean different things to different people. I think here you mean that you want to hatch your own chicks. Chicks are a cost but a really big part of the cost is feed. Housing and brooding costs enter into that too but once you get your set-up those costs drop for the second batch. For me, self-sufficient is largely about feeding them. If you buy all or most of what they are going to eat you are not going to be very self-sufficient unless you are talking commercial methods and quantities where you sell enough eggs or meat to cover costs. If yours forage for a lot of their feed or you grow your own, feed costs become less important. I don’t think that’s what we are talking about here.

There are several threads in this section where people talk about what breeds to get for dual purpose meat birds. EggheadJr has a good one but there are many others. You will get different opinions. In my opinion, breed is not as important as strain. People like to think that every bird of a breed is identical worldwide. They are not. If someone breeds a flock of Delaware for meat purposes and ignores egg laying, you will eventually get a pretty good meat flock but they won’t lay great. If someone breeds Delaware for egg production and ignores the meat properties, you get good egg layers that are not that great for meat. There are general breed tendencies, true Cornish not the Cornish Cross hybrids, should have more breast meat than about any other breed. If white meat is what you want, it’s good to have Cornish in the mix.

A problem is that different hatcheries have different people selecting which birds get to breed. They use different criteria when selecting breeders. In general you are not going to get a good meat bird from a hatchery, but hatchery stock is what my flock is based on. In general I eat the ones I don’t want to eat and breed the ones that I do want to eat. Over time I get a flock that better suits my purposes. If you can start off with stock that suits your purposes you are much better off, but it’s hard finding that plus the chicks or hatching eggs are usually not cheap.

Part of it is your expectations too. Many people are looking at getting the biggest bird they possibly can. I like a bigger bird, I’m trying to breed for that, but half the chicks I hatch are female. Half the chickens I eat are female. There are only two of us so we get enough meat from the smaller females. Some people sell any females they hatch they don’t need to keep to replace layers and only eat the males. My goal is not to get the absolute largest cockerel I can, I want my smallest cockerel to be a decent size. We all do these things differently.

One big difference in the hybrid Cornish Cross and a dual purpose chicken for meat is butcher age. The hybrids are butchered at a very young age so they are very tender. You can cook them any way you wish, including frying or grilling. The dual purpose birds put on meat a whole lot slower so they are butchered at an older age. If you butcher them at an age young enough to fry or grill, there won’t be a lot of meat there. If you wait to let them gain more weight you need to change your cooking methods to something slower and with more moisture. Again, we are all different. Some people are find with frying a 14 week old chicken, others will find those too tough, especially if they are used to the chicken you buy at the store.

I love my broody hens. They do all the work of hatching and raising the chicks while I just reap the benefits. But even with a small flock where a lot of the hens go broody every year, I can’t raise enough chicks for my meat purposes relying only on broody hens. And they don’t go broody when you want them to. I have to use an incubator. If I doubled or more likely tripled the size of my flock I might get enough broody hens to raise enough, but feed costs and facility sizes go way up. With an incubator you control when you hatch and pretty much how many you hatch. A lot of dual purpose breeds don’t go broody very often to start with. I try to breed broodiness into my flock and most do go broody, but when I started with hatchery birds, some breeds known to go broody a lot, I got very few broody hens. I think you should count on an incubator.

There is another issue. How much freezer space do you have? Some people pressure can chicken to preserve it instead of freezing it, but chicken can take up a lot of space in the freezer. This time of year freezer space is pretty precious for me with all the stuff from the garden. With the hybrid broilers you pretty much need to process them when they are a certain age or they get medical problems. With dual purpose chickens you can wait on butchering them but if you are buying their feed the costs per pound of meat can go way up. If they are mostly foraging for their feed it’s not as bad.

I know this is a very long post but I consider this a fairly complicated topic. That’s mainly because you have so many different options, so many different ways to go. You probably should spend some time reading different threads in this section to see people’s thoughts on the topic. We all have so many different goals related to this and we all do it so differently that there is no one way to go. You’ll have to pick a direction and just jump in.

Good luck!
 
I'm working on the project @Ulladh mentioned above. I am considering the overall cost of each bird, growth rates/feed efficiency, as well as demeanor and temperament so that I can have a self-sustaining flock of dual purpose birds. So far I've found the Delawares are slower growing than I'd expected based on the prior advice I've been given and things I've read. It very well may be based on where I purchased the chicks, different hatcheries have different 'specialties'. But you're right, there is a lot more to consider than just the cost, though that is likely the biggest concern.

I'm plan on using dark Cornish as the rooster, I would prefer a white Cornish, but they're just too dang costly and difficult to find. Planning to breed that with a white rock hen, and I also plan to mix a white rock and Delaware to make a bulky hen to mix with the dark Cornish. As far as a self-sustaining, dual purpose bird, my money so far is on the white rock.

If raising chickens for meat, a HUGE consideration is the protein % in the feed. I found a big difference just in the growth rates between 2 groups of white rock chicks I am raising, some at 22% and the others at 24% - the difference was around 20% faster growth for the group on the higher protein. I quickly realized that I should keep all of them on 24% going forward. About a year ago, I had 2 groups of layer pullets that I raised at the same time. The group I started on 24% protein (only the first 2 weeks) are now significantly larger than the group I raised on 20% during that same time. Just something else to consider.
 
My efforts in this involve a compromise. Production birds are expected to perform using an incomplete ration supplementing free-range foraging. Growth rates are very much compromised but doing so to limit need for importing nutrients, especially protein. I am trying stay away from need for feed.
 
My efforts in this involve a compromise. Production birds are expected to perform using an incomplete ration supplementing free-range foraging. Growth rates are very much compromised but doing so to limit need for importing nutrients, especially protein. I am trying stay away from need for feed.
I am all for free-ranging to allow for the extra nutrients they find while foraging and also to cut down on feed costs. I have heard though that running and flapping of wings makes for a tougher bird - not sure how well that pans out, but it's what I've heard from several sources so there may be something to it. I am trying to give my meaties the best of both worlds with a tractor coop to allow them the foraging, but it's short and confined enough to prevent them from running or flapping around. The pain is moving that tractor daily so they get fresh grass and bugs daily.

Are you looking to avoid feed altogether, or just the need for as much feed as if they were confined 24/7?
 
I am all for free-ranging to allow for the extra nutrients they find while foraging and also to cut down on feed costs. I have heard though that running and flapping of wings makes for a tougher bird - not sure how well that pans out, but it's what I've heard from several sources so there may be something to it. I am trying to give my meaties the best of both worlds with a tractor coop to allow them the foraging, but it's short and confined enough to prevent them from running or flapping around. The pain is moving that tractor daily so they get fresh grass and bugs daily.

Are you looking to avoid feed altogether, or just the need for as much feed as if they were confined 24/7?


I can raise a small number using only scratch when hen-rearing chicks. The scratch keeps them from ranging beyond areas I can protect. Small number means 50 birds or less and they are scattered over 4 months hatching time. I can do a lot better with chicken tractors where they are given a complete diet of restricted volume and they free-range forage part of the day around the tractors. By 12 weeks I have them roost up in elevated coops. Feed usage both ways is less than with total confinement but you have to have sufficient forage. I have about 6 acres birds can forage and it has excellent inputs of insect drift from surrounding areas. What I can raise is very much a function of the insects my neighbors support and then migrate onto my property. That thinking you will not see much of here.
 
Hey get red rangers they get to be about 4 pounds at butchering time and their legs are strong so they will not break they are also outstanding foragers!
 
Wow, 50 is a huge number - but I guess it's all relative. I have 16 free-ranging layers confined to a half-acre, and another 32 chicks in a mobile coop that gets moved every morning. I have 2 surrounding acres that are fully wooded, so they have a ton of bugs to eat. And every once in a while, they fly over the short perimeter fence and go into the woods to forage.

Is there a way to attract more of the beneficial bugs to your property? I know how to attract flies and mosquitoes, but what about grubs and worms and beetles, etc.?
 
Compost heap, thick stand of legumes you allow growth to 24". Lights on at night can help. Most drift seems to occur at night with exception of things like grasshoppers late in season (about now).
 

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