WORMING with Fenbendazole - - How much?

[math ace]

I swear the older I get the more I forget. I wormed my birds 6 months ago with Fenbendazole (safe-gaurd). DUH, I didn't write the dosage on the bottle and NOW I can't remember how much to use.

IT is 10% suspension Fenbendazole meant for deworming goats. I like to put it in a gallon of water.

Does anybody remember how much to use in a gallon of water ? ?


Last time, I think, I put it in their water for 2 days and then waited 10 days and repeated. Does this sound right ? ? ?


Is it necessary to repeat a second dosage this time IF I already wormed with wazine 10 days ago ? ?

 

[dawg53]

Hi math ace, I pretty much know most of the dosages for different wormers. Fenbendazole 10% suspension liquid goat wormer, kills gapeworm too....3cc/ml per gallon of water. The fenbendazole paste equine wormer is "pea" size amount for each chicken. BTW; no need to reworm again after using the goat wormer since you used the wazine as your 1st wormer.

 

[casportpony]

Pictures from the Veterinary Parasitology Reference Manual - Fifth Edition

Roundworm




Cecal worm




Capillary worms




Gapeworm




Tapeworm

 

[casportpony]

Equimax or something containing praziquantel would be my choice to treat tapes. Can you post a picture of the praziquantel sold in Canada so I can verify that it's the same as the stuff sold here? The stuff sold in AU is different, so that why I'm asking.

 

[casportpony]

The most important place on a chicken to inspect for external parasites is around the vent area where it's warm and moist.

I think this is always a good place to check, but several species of lice live on different parts of the body. I always check legs, vent, back, wings, belly, neck and head.

There's no need to use a miteacide if you dont see external parasites.

Would it surprise you to know that I have checked a few and found no bugs, but threated them anyway. I then placed them in a box on paper towels and came back 30 minutes later to find tons of dead lice.

 

[rancher hicks]

Verm-X is advertized in BY poultry and has no withdrawl period. It does say to use monthly and is expensive at that rate. I figure there has to be a better way. I doubt the birds would get infected in the winter if they are clean going into it. So that gives me 6 months here in NY.

Still I won't stop til I find a better way.

The UK advertises a wormer with no withdraw but I don't know if I can order it from here. I wonder if I can get it in Canada. Flubenvet I think it's called.

I wonder if there is something safe to spread in the yard to kill parasites or reduce their numbers that is safe for the birds.

 

[briteday]

When you mix liquid fenbendazole with water be sure to shake/stir the water a few times each day. The fenbendazole is thick and heavy, will sink to the bottom of the bowl or container. You really want a fairly consistent suspension in the water to get good coverage. I tend to keep some 2 liter bottles around when I worm my birds. And I mix a couple up a few times each day, and then go out and re-fill the water bowls. There is quite a bit of waste. But unless you have tons of birds the bottle of goat wormer will last you for years.

 

[kathyinmo]

I found this helpful, from an old thread ....
https://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/viewtopic.php?pid=2525157#p2525157

Quote:
You sound experienced - you're certain it was a roundworm - not a tape? Because the treatment would be different? I just want to "dot my i's and cross my t's" here.

It wasn't flat and segmented, but thin and round?

Piperazine's (Wazine) mechanism of action is indeed that it paralyzes the worm, causing it to be expelled. Roundworms do not live for very long outside their host. So you need not be concerned about having to retrieve them. But that's one reason why I follow up with something that DOES kill them.

They do also excyst and travel, as larvae, to the lungs of the animal at one point in their development. From there they are coughed back up and reenter the digestive tract where they become adults. There they are treatable by all roundworm-effective antihelmintics. You likely know this, but this is more for someone else who might read this and not know.

If you see a bird passing a worm, it's more likely that they have a large infestation since (as you well know) you will otherwise rarely see worms in poultry. So really, unless you do a fecal egg count to show how many eggs are being shed, one must assume there COULD be a large number of worms both in the intestines and the lungs.

If you kill all of the roundworms at once, then you have these dead worms that need to be expelled. If a bird's body is presented with a high number of dead worms, they can sometimes have an anaphylactic reaction to what has essentially become a "foreign protein" in their body. Alternately, there have been cases where a large number of dead worms being expelled from the body have caused blockage.

So that's why I always recommend Wazine first. If there are a large number of roundworms (and again we have to assume it's possible unless proven otherwise by an egg count), then you won't risk the "dead worm" foreign protein effect. Because Wazine is a repeated wormer, it's less effective and you won't overload the bird with passing worms if there's a huge infestation. If there are few, you might just get them all. But it's meant to be repeated.

Instead of repeating the wazine, I like the more broad spectrum wormers that also effect cecal worms, and even external parasites, and actually paralyze as well as KILL the parasites. I'm not sure whether or not it works on the lung parasites, and would suppose it depends on the wormer. Personally I use pour-on ivermectin which doesn't go through the digestive system but through the tissues. So it would be most likely to do so. I'm looking that up now actually because I don't know. It says "immature" but I'm not sure they mean in the lungs, though I really think they do.

But since ivermectin (and fenbendazole, and levamisole, and other broad-spectrum wormers) DO kill a number of other parasites (that may not shed through the feces) I like to knock down the numbers first with wazine. Also because ivermectin kills adult and immature roundworms, I take the safe gamble and do the weaker treatment first. Then go back and blast both adult and immature worms.

I hope that makes sense.

 

[casportpony]

Not sure if I've seen the entire stream here, but I use the safeguard equine paste. It's amazing & by far the easiest for me, but I only have a flock of 13 all under 1 year. I use 1 pea size portion per chicken. I slightly open their mouth & wedge it right in. They gobble it up. Then give a 2nd dose in 10 days; & I'm done. Had one hen with Gape Worm, & worked on contact.

Thanks for the heads up re: the egg waiting period. I wasn't sure.

Blessings!

Welcome to BYC!

You might want to do a little research on the amount you're giving when you give a peas sized amon. I know there are hundreds of posts that say to use that amount, heck, even a book says to use it, but a pea sized amount contains very little medication, so you're are probably under dosing some worms, and not treating other worms.

One pea sized amount = ~ 25 mg, which = 0.25 ml (1/4 cc) of the 10% Safeguard Liquid. Such a small amount *might* treat large roundworms, but it will not treat cecal worms, capillary worms, gapeworms, etc. My vet has me give 0.23 ml per *pound*, not 0.23 ml per bird.

If you can, find a vet that can do fecals for you to see if you even have worms. Then the vet can advise you on the best way to worm your flock.

Safeguard and Panacur are the same, both are 10% (100 mg/g) fenbendazole
From left to right:
Small = 10 mg (0 .1 ml)
Medium = 25 mg (0.25 ml)
Large = 50 mg ( .5 ml)




-Kathy

 

[dawg53]

Just buy human deworming solutions from pharmacy. It's the same drug.tricky , as op states to get dosage right but doable and far cheaper.

Welcome to BYC.
I'm interested. What deworming solutions are available at a pharmacy and what are the approximate costs?