The Ultimate Poultry and Caged Bird Care Guide: Housing, Farming, Species, Enrichment and More

Introduction to the article

This is going to be a REALLY long article I have written myself. There are many different species of fowl (excluding chickens) that are frequently mentioned on BYC. Some of these include ducks, pigeons, finches and native parrots, pheasants, peafowl, guinea-fowl, quail, turkeys, geese and swans.

Pheasants and peafowl can make great animal companions, if you have done your research. These birds are known for their vibrant colours, loud calls and very distinctive courtship displays. While pheasants are valued for their sporting and culinary qualities, peafowl are often raised for their aesthetic appeal, including the iconic, complex and extravagant tail feathers of male Indian and green peafowl. They are a great addition to your farmyard because of these traits mentioned. Pheasants are birds best known for their striking plumage and are native to various parts of the world, including Asia, Europe and North America. Peafowl, however, are native to Asia and are the most colourful pheasant-like bird around. Female birds are called peahens.

Ducks, swans and geese are waterfowl, meaning they have short, webbed legs adapted for swimming. They have bodies that are streamlined. Like chickens, ducks and geese are common animals in the farmyard, however, swans are not; like all animals, they have some special needs to their care. There are a lot of BYC members who own ducks, swans and geese in their care. Ducks, swans and geese are not only beautiful to observe but also play vital roles in the ecosystems they inhabit. From the graceful swan swimming across a serene lake to the quacking ducks that waddle along your local pond, each species has their own unique charm.

Guinea-fowl and turkeys are large birds with distinctive body colouration. Guinea-fowl are native to Africa, while turkeys are native to North America. Guinea-fowl and turkeys stand out as distinct members of the poultry kingdom, each possessing their own set of characteristics, habits and endearing quirks. From the striking plumage of turkeys to the distinctive calls of guinea-fowl, these birds have endeared themselves to people all over the world. Yet, their uniqueness also comes with specific requirements that warrant a deeper understanding. These big birds have held our place in our hearts, from being dinner to keeping them in the farm for ornamental purposes.

Australian finches and parrots represent some of the most captivating and diverse species within the avian kingdom. From the dazzling rainbow hues of parrots to the intricate patterns adorning finches, these small-medium birds have enchanted bird lovers, conservationists and ornithologists alike. Yet, their striking appearance is only one facet of their allure, as each species boasts their own unique behaviours, calls and habits.

Domestic pigeons are one of the best domestic birds for a beginning birdkeeper. These birds lived in the cities and farm areas around the world as feral birds. There are pigeons used in different industries, such as the racing industry and historically, warfare, where they used to deliver letters to allied soldiers in dangerous situations. You can raise pigeons for meat, too.

Quail are shy birds, but are sometimes trained to be in human contact. They, like chickens, are easy to keep and are a good alternative to keep in your backyard because they are quieter than a chicken, who are naturally loud birds. These birds are lively and make good animal companions if researched properly.

From housing to breeding, colouration to raising some fowl for meat, this care guide will have everything you will need to raise them and more. There will be species/breed profiles in some birds, too.




PHEASANTS


The beginning...

Before bringing these birds into your care, it's crucial to be familiar with their natural behaviours, habitats and any legal regulations regarding their ownership in your region. Pheasants cost $30 or more, but $60 for a pair. Rarer ones, such as Siamese fireback pheasants, would cost up to $700 or more. Common (ring-necked) pheasants cost $50/pr, Chinese golden pheasants $60/pr and Kalij and Swinhoe's pheasants cost $70/pr. Normal Indian peafowl would cost $40 or more, white Indian peafowl $200, but Java green peafowl would cost $4000 or more and the Indo-Chinese green peafowl is even rarer in Australia, costing $16,500 for a bird.

Housing

Pheasants need a large enclosure to thrive. You will need more than 5 square feet per bird, with 35 square feet being the best minimum for a covey (group) of pheasants that gives them enough room to wander around the enclosure. A special enclosure would include a large run with a large coop for egg-laying. The size of the enclosure depends on the species of pheasant; for example, the tragopans and great argus would need 400 square feet or more of space and Chinese golden pheasants and silver pheasants would require 100 square feet or more. For most pheasants, a massive coop and run is required, about 3 metres or more in size, is required, however smaller pheasants can be kept in aviaries. Make sure there is good cover for hens to lay their eggs from aggressive males. The shelters should be 1.5m x 1.5m x 1.5m in size. The site of the area must be dry and well-drained. The shelters must be well-ventilated and free from drafts. The enclosure must be protected from predators such as cats and foxes.

Feeding

These birds are omnivorous, meaning they eat mostly plant matter, and rarely meat matter. Research their foraging habits on the species you are keeping. If not in intensive housing, these birds can eat non-poisonous fruit and veg, seed, grain, gamebird feed and crumble, and insects, such as crickets for protein. Grower crumbles are required for chicks. The amount of feed depends on the age and species of the bird. Never feed pheasants avocado, spoiled foods, high fat foods, chocolate and onion and garlic as they are toxic to your bird. Pheasants have specific dietary requirements at different stages of their life, so make sure to adjust their diet accordingly.

Climate

Adapt the temperature and climate of the pheasant species that you are caring for. Some pheasants live in cold climates, while others live in tropical or warm climates. If you have a choice, consider selecting species that are well-suited to your local climate to reduce the need for extreme climate control measures. Regularly observe pheasants to see if they're comfortable in your local climate. Incorporate natural elements like small trees, bushes and rocks to help regulate temperature and humidity in their enclosure. In hot climates, provide shade for your pheasants.

Enrichment

Pheasants need enrichment in their enclosure to be healthy and happy. Provide perches, hiding spots and dust baths for your pheasants. However, enrichment depends on the species you are looking after. Pheasants are often curious and may be intrigued by mirrors or shiny objects placed in their environment. Ensure these objects are safe and securely mounted. Offer pheasant-safe toys and puzzle feeders that dispense treats when manipulated. These can keep them mentally engaged. Hang a piece of fruit or vegetable from a string or rope as a piñata. Pheasants can peck at it to get to the treat inside. Play natural sounds or recordings of their calls or the sounds of their native habitat to create a more engaging auditory environment. Change and rotate the enrichment items regularly to prevent habituation and keep their interest piqued. Add dust baths to their enclosure as they like to enjoy them.

Some pheasant species are social birds, so consider housing them in pairs or small coveys to allow for social interactions. However, be cautious about compatibility and potential aggression. Hide small treats such as mealworms in various locations within their enclosure to encourage exploration and hunting behavior. Instead of placing food in a bowl, scatter it on the ground to encourage pheasants to search for it, simulating natural foraging. Introduce novel objects or items that they haven't seen before to pique their curiosity. Native grasses, small trees, rocks and bushes are required for your pheasant enclosure, as it mimics their natural habitat. Safety is paramount, so ensure that all items introduced into the enclosure are non-toxic and free from sharp edges or potential hazards.


Breeding

Pheasants are seasonal breeders. The ratio for breeding pheasants should be one male every six females. Provide a suitable enclosure or aviary for breeding pheasants. Ensure it has ample space, proper shelter, nesting sites and protection from predators. Separate cocks and hens until you are ready for breeding to prevent aggression. Select healthy pheasants that are at the appropriate breeding age. This age can vary between species but is generally around one year old for most pheasants. When you are ready to breed, introduce the cock and hen pheasants to each other. Monitor their behavior for compatibility and ensure there is no excessive aggression. Provide suitable nesting boxes or areas with nesting material (e.g., straw or wood shavings) where the hen can lay her eggs. Different pheasant species have varying preferences for nesting sites. Collect the pheasant eggs from the nest box. Pheasant eggs typically require incubation. You can use an incubator or allow the hen to incubate the eggs naturally if she shows a strong desire to do so. Maintain the appropriate temperature and humidity levels according to the species-specific requirements during incubation. Keep records of breeding dates, egg production and incubation. Incubation lasts for 25 days. Or simply let the mother brood her eggs.

Chick care

Like baby chickens, pheasant chicks are fragile and vulnerable offspring. Prepare a clean, safe and draft-free brooding area before the chicks arrive. This can be a brooder box, a small indoor coop or a well-protected section of an enclosure with proper heating. Maintain a consistent temperature in the brooding area. Start with a temperature of around 35-38°C for the first week and gradually decrease it by 2.9°C per week until they are fully feathered, usually around 6-8.5 weeks of age. Use heating pads to provide warmth, but ensure that the chicks have space to move away from the heat source if they become too warm. Use clean, dry bedding material, such as wood shavings, straw or paper towels, to provide a soft and comfortable surface for the chicks. Keep the brooding area clean and dry. You can raise chicks in the outdoors if you want. Change the bedding regularly to prevent the buildup of moisture and the development of harmful bacteria. Provide a constant supply of fresh, clean water in shallow containers that are easy for the chicks to access. Use chick waterers to prevent drowning.

Feed them a high-quality chick starter feed with around 24-28% protein. Ensure that the feed is appropriate for pheasant chicks and does not contain medications or additives. Offer food to the chicks immediately upon arrival. Chicks should have access to food and water at all times. Monitor their eating habits, and adjust the feeding schedule based on their appetite. They should be active and eating regularly. Provide small-sized chick grit to aid in digestion. Grit helps chicks break down food in their gizzard. Put the grit in a separate dish for those that need it.

Consult with a veterinarian or poultry expert to determine if any specific supplements are needed, such as vitamins or electrolytes, depending on the condition of the chicks and your location. Spend time observing and handling the chicks daily to help them become more accustomed to human contact. Gentle, regular handling can lead to friendlier adult pheasants. Ensure that the brooding area has adequate space for the chicks to move arouns and exercise. Good ventilation is also essential to maintain air quality. Make sure the brooding area is secure and protected from potential predators such as rats, snakes, and birds of prey. Regularly check the chicks for signs of illness, stress, or injury. If you notice any issues, consult with a veterinarian who specializes in poultry.

As the chicks grow and develop feathers, gradually acclimate them to outdoor conditions. Provide a secure outdoor enclosure with proper shelter and protection from predators. Transition the chicks to a lower-protein grower feed as they mature. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for the specific feed you are using. Keep detailed records of your chicks' growth, health and any observations to help track their development.

Diseases

Many pheasants are susceptible to various diseases such as bird flu, Marek's disease and others. It's important to track the health of your birds. Here are some diseases and their symptoms.

1. Avian influenza (Bird flu):
   • Symptoms: Sudden death, respiratory distress, coughing, sneezing, nasal discharge, swelling of the head and neck, drop in egg production (in laying hens).
   • Prevention: Strict biosecurity measures, vaccination (if recommended) and reporting any suspicious deaths to authorities.
2. Newcastle disease:
   • Symptoms: Respiratory signs, nervous system signs, diarrhoea, drop in egg production (in laying hens), sudden death.
   • Prevention: Vaccination, good biosecurity practices and isolation of sick birds.
3. Coccidiosis:
   • Symptoms: Diarrhoea, weight loss, reduced growth, weakness, sometimes death.
   • Prevention: Maintain clean living conditions, control humidity and provide medicated feed if necessary.
4. Marek's disease:
   • Symptoms: Paralysis, lameness, weight loss, tumors.
   • Prevention: Vaccination, good biosecurity practices and avoiding mixing pheasants with other poultry.
5. Aspergillosis:
   • Symptoms: Respiratory distress, coughing, sneezing, nasal discharge, lethargy.
   • Prevention: Maintain good ventilation, avoid damp conditions and keep the environment clean and dry.
6. Fowl cholera:
   • Symptoms: Sudden death, respiratory signs, diarrhoea, nasal discharge, swollen wattles and joints.
   • Prevention: Biosecurity measures, vaccination, and prompt isolation and treatment of sick birds.
7. Blackhead disease (Histomoniasis):
   • Symptoms: Depression, diarrhoea, lethargy, weight loss, yellowish discoloration of the head.
   • Prevention: Maintain clean living conditions, control caecal worm infestations in the environment and use medications if necessary.
8. Egg drop syndrome (EDS):
   • Symptoms: A drop in egg production, soft-shelled or misshapen eggs.
   • Prevention: Vaccination, biosecurity measures and control of vectors like flies.
9. Botulism:
   • Symptoms: Weakness, paralysis, drooping wings, difficulty breathing.
   • Prevention: Maintain clean water sources, remove any decaying organic matter and avoid overcrowding.
10. Respiratory infections:
    • Symptoms: Sneezing, coughing, nasal discharge, labored breathing.
    • Prevention: Good ventilation, isolation of sick birds and treatment with antibiotics when necessary.

Raising pheasants for meat (and how to cull them)

Warning: This section will mention graphic pheasant slaughter. If you're sensitive or squeamish, don't read this section.

Raising pheasants for meat is a rewarding experience for expert pheasant keepers. Common (ring-necked) pheasants are commonly culled for their meat. You can purchase day-old pheasant chicks from reputable hatcheries. Make sure the chicks are healthy and disease-free. Raise them like normal pheasant chicks (see chick care) until they're old enough to be culled for meat. When they are ready to be culled for meat, here are the equipment you will need:

1. Killing cone: You can purchase one or make it yourself. It's typically a funnel-shaped cone made of sturdy material like metal or plastic.
2. Sharp knife or poultry processing shears
3. A large pot of boiling water or a propane torch for scalding
4. A container for collecting feathers and offal
5. Gloves for hygiene and safety
6. A clean, flat work surface

Set up the killing cone in a stable and secure manner, either by attaching it to a wall or using a stand. Ensure that the cone is large enough to comfortably fit the pheasant you're processing. Capture the pheasant you intend to cull in a gentle and stress-free manner. This can be done by hand or with a net if necessary. Hold the pheasant by their legs with their head facing down. Carefully insert the bird head-first into the killing cone, allowing their neck to extend through the narrow end of the cone. The pheasant should be securely restrained in the cone, with their head and neck exposed. Before you proceed, ensure that the pheasant is calm and properly restrained in the cone. You can either stun the pheasant by giving them a sharp blow to the head using a blunt object or by using a specific poultry stunning tool. This step is essential to reduce suffering. After stunning, the pheasant should be unconscious but is still alive.

Using a sharp knife or poultry processing shears, make a quick cut across the pheasant's throat, severing the jugular vein. Ensure you make a clean and deep cut to ensure rapid blood loss. Allow the blood to drain completely into the container below the killing cone. Wait for a few minutes to ensure that the pheasant has completely bled out. After bleeding, check for any signs of life, such as movement or reflexes. Make sure the pheasant is completely deceased. If you plan to pluck the feathers rather than skinning the pheasant, you can scald the bird in boiling water or use a propane torch to loosen the feathers. Scalding typically takes about a minute to two minutes. Pluck the feathers or skin the pheasant as desired using a plucking machine. Remove the head, neck and feet. Eviscerate and clean the bird thoroughly. Chill the processed pheasant immediately in a cooler with ice or in a refrigerator. You can have roast pheasant or have delicious dishes such as gamekeepers' pie.

Species/breed profile: Lady Amherst's pheasant


About the species



Lady Amherst's pheasant (Chrysolophus amherstiae) is a fascinating species of pheasant native to China and Myanmar. The species is named after Sarah Countess Amherst, the wife of William Pitt Amherst, the governor-general of India in the early 19th century. The Amhersts were avid collectors of natural history specimens. The male Lady Amherst's pheasant is highly distinctive with his long, sweeping tail feathers that can reach up to three feet in length. These tail feathers are adorned with striking metallic green and blue bands and end in a bold, white eyespot pattern, with two orange feathers on each side of the tail. The rest of the body is primarily black, with an iridescent green head, white throats and red face wattles. Females, on the other hand, are less colourful and have mottled brown plumage which helps them camouflage in the bushes.



This species can be kept in large aviaries and enclosures larger than 360 square feet of space per male bird, and 200 square feet per female bird. Females are 68cm while males are a whopping 120cm in length, the tail feathers accounting for 70cm-80cm in length. The clutch number of eggs is 6-12 for a female pheasant to lay every year. These birds are known to be living at mountains in an altitude of 6000 to 15,000 feet in bamboo thickets. There has been a feral population in the United Kingdom, especially its main island. These pheasants are relatively easy to keep in captivity, but this bird needs more space than other pheasants, as the males are very large and long. This bird is usually kept for ornamental purposes.






PEAFOWL

Housing

You can keep peafowl either free-range or in a special enclosure designed for them. A rural area with a large plot of land is the best area for these large pheasants. However if you live in an area full of predators, a extra large aviary or pen is best suited for them. The optimal pen size for peafowl are 12-15 feet in length and 4-8 feet in height with netting as a roof to prevent them from flying out. 160 square feet are recommended per bird. Make sure the enclosure is protected from predators. peafowl are social birds, so keep them in a pair or in a small muster (group). Make sure there are feeders and waterers, and a large coop in your enclosure for the peahens to lay their eggs.

Feeding

Like pheasants, peafowl are omnivorous. Their natural diet consists of seeds, grains, fruits, insects, small rodents and small reptiles. Provide them with high-protein feed to keep them healthy. Look for a feed with at least 16-18% protein content for growing birds and 14-16% for adults. In addition to many commercial feeds, offer fresh fruits and vegetables. Peafowls enjoy fruits like apples, pears, grapes and berries, as well as vegetables like lettuce, spinach and carrots. You can also include insects such as mealworms, crickets, and earthworms in their diet. Insects provide essential protein for your birds. Peafowl need grit to aid their digestion cycle. Don't feed birds high fat foods, chocolate, garlic, avocado and spoiled foods.


Colouration

The colouration of peafowl are complex. There are sexual dimorphism, like any other pheasants. Male birds (peacocks) are renowned for their brilliant and iridescent plumage, which includes the detailed and complex eyespots on their long tail feathers. These eyespots are not actual eyes but serve to attract females during courtship displays. These such colours are a result of microscopic platelets in the feathers that diffract light, creating the vivid, colourful hues. In contrast, female birds (peahens) have more subdued and cryptic plumage. Their colouration is typically brown and mottled, which helps them blend into their surroundings when nesting and caring for their chicks. This camouflage protects them from predators while they incubate eggs and raise their peachicks. The quality and vibrancy of a peacock's plumage can also indicate their age and overall health. Older, healthier peacocks tend to have more vibrant and symmetrical plumage, which makes them more attractive to peahens.

Enrichment

Like all poultry and other domestic animals, they need some enrichment in their enclosure in order to make them happy. Scatter their food in different areas of their enclosure, encouraging them to forage. Use puzzle feeders or treat balls to make them work for their food. Hang fruits or vegetables just out of reach, encouraging them to jump or stretch to get their treats. Add some natural elements like logs, branches, or rocks for them to perch on and explore. Plant some vegetation to mimic their natural habitat. Peafowl often enjoy browsing on leaves and insects. Provide a designated area filled with sand or dust for them to bathe in, as they enjoy dust bathing. Some peafowl are curious about their reflection and can enjoy looking at themselves. Hang objects like shiny toys or wind chimes for them to investigate. Peafowl are social birds, so providing them with companions of their own kind can be enriching. However, be cautious about introducing new birds, as they can be territorial. Change the layout of their enclosure or introduce new objects periodically to keep their environment fresh and interesting. Some peafowl enjoy splashing in shallow water. Providing a small, shallow pool or a birdbath can be stimulating. Playing recordings of natural sounds like rain, other peafowl or insects can engage their senses. Hide small treats, insects or seeds around their enclosure for them to find. Train them to respond to cues or commands. This can provide mental stimulation and enhance the bond between you and your birds. Spend time observing their natural behaviors. This can be enriching for you as well as for them.


Breeding

Peafowl, like other pheasants, can be difficult to breed unless you follow these steps. Start with healthy and mature peafowl. Peacocks typically reach sexual maturity at around 2 to 3 years of age, while peahens mature a bit earlier. Ensure you have suitable housing for breeding pairs, including nesting areas for peahens. Each breeding pair should have its own separate space to reduce stress and competition. Peafowl generally breed during the spring and summer months. They are more likely to display mating behaviors and lay eggs during this time. Peacocks have elaborate courtship displays, including fanning their large tail feathers and making vocalisations. Watch for signs that a peacock is courting a peahen. Allow breeding pairs to spend time together. It's common for a peacock to have several peahens in his harem, so provide space for this social structure.

Peahens will need a secure and private area to lay their eggs. Nesting boxes filled with straw or shavings can provide a suitable environment. Peahens may lay a clutch of eggs, with the typical clutch size being 4-6 eggs. They can incubate their eggs naturally, or you can collect the eggs and use an incubator to hatch them. Natural incubation typically takes around 28-30 days. Ensure that peahens have access to fresh food and water during the incubation period. Protect the eggs from predators and maintain proper humidity levels during incubation if using an incubator.

Peachick care

Peachicks are the term for baby peafowl. You can purchase them from the poultry expert or buy fertile eggs from an egg farm. Create a safe and warm brooder for the peachicks. You can use a large cardboard box or a plastic tub, or make your own enclosure for them. Make sure it has a secure lid to prevent escapes and protect them from drafts. Peachicks need to be kept warm, especially during the first few weeks. Use a heat pad to maintain a temperature of around 35°C in one area of the brooder. Gradually reduce the temperature by 2.7°C each week until they are fully feathered. Line the brooder with a soft and absorbent bedding material such as pine shavings or straw. This will help keep the area clean and comfortable for the chicks. Keep the brooder clean by regularly removing soiled bedding and replacing it with fresh material. This will prevent the buildup of harmful bacteria. However, you can raise your peachicks outdoors for a better effect than raising them indoors.

Feed the peachicks a high-quality game bird feed with at least 24% protein. You can also offer finely chopped greens or herbs for additional nutrients. Make sure they have access to fresh, clean water at all times. Provide access to small pebbles or grit, as peachicks need them to help digest their food. Spend time with the peachicks daily to interact with them and build trust. Gentle handling and talking to them can help them become more comfortable around humans. Ensure that the brooder is not overcrowded, as this can lead to stress and aggression among the chicks. Provide enough space for them to move around comfortably. Keep a close eye on the health of the peachicks. Look for signs of illness, such as lethargy, or labored breathing. If you suspect any health issues, consult a veterinarian experienced in avian and poultry care. When the peachicks are fully feathered and the weather is warm, gradually transition them to an outdoor pen or coop. Make sure they are protected from predators. Peafowl are known for their love of perching. Provide sturdy perches or branches for the peachicks as they grow. Peafowl like to roost off the ground at night. If you plan to keep your peachicks with other poultry or peafowl, introduce them gradually to avoid aggression from older birds. Every peachick is unique, so pay attention to their individual needs. Keep detailed records of your peachicks and their behaviours as they grow up.

Diseases

Peafowl are vulnerable to some fatal diseases; you must check their health every day or few days to see they're in good spirits. Here are some diseases that affect many peafowl:

1. Avian influenza (bird flu): Peafowl, like other birds, can be affected by avian influenza, which can range from mild to severe and is highly contagious.
2. Newcastle disease: This is a highly contagious viral infection that affects many species of birds, including peafowl. Symptoms can include respiratory distress, nervous system signs and even death.
3. Coccidiosis: Coccidiosis is a parasitic disease caused by protozoa called coccidia. It can affect the intestines of peafowl, mostly causing diarrhoea, weight loss and general weakness.
4. Aspergillosis: This fungal infection can affect the respiratory system of peafowl and is often associated with poor ventilation and high humidity in their living environment.
5. Marek's disease: Marek's disease is a viral disease that primarily affects chickens, but peafowl can also be carriers. It can cause paralysis, tumours and immunosuppression.
6. Blackhead disease (histomoniasis): Their effects are similar to many pheasant species, including peafowl. Blackhead disease is caused by a protozoan parasite called Histomonas meleagridis. It can lead to liver damage, and can be fatal if not treated.
7. Botulism: Peafowl, like other landfowl, can be susceptible to botulism, a bacterial infection that can lead to paralysis and death.
8. Worm infestations: Peafowl can be affected by various internal parasites, including roundworms, tapeworms and flukes. These parasites can cause weight loss, diarrhoea and other health issues.
9. Respiratory infections: Peafowl can develop respiratory infections, especially in crowded or unsanitary conditions. These infections can be caused by bacteria or viruses and may result in coughing, nasal discharge and difficulty breathing.
10. External parasites: Peafowl can also suffer from external parasites such as mites and lice, which can cause feather loss, skin irritation and general discomfort.

Species profile: Indian peafowl

It's easy to know why the Indian peafowl is a famous blue bird. The Indian peafowl holds cultural and religious significance in India, where it is the national bird, and in countries that support Hinduism. It is often associated with Hindu mythology and is considered a symbol of beauty and grace. These large pheasants are native to the Indian subcontinent. Indian peafowl are bred to come in different colours, such as white. They are found in moist, deciduous forests in 5900 feet above sea level, but in rare cases, 6600 feet above sea level. The bird became very common when it was domesticated centuries ago and spread across the world. There are many varieties of this peafowl, including black shouldered varieties with blue tails.