I used the tupperware tub to ferry the girls back and forth from the brood pen to the run until I got the coop built and coupled to the run.

Interior shot showing the nesting boxes and hatch door on one end, good for cleanout. There is also a hinged window sash in the hatch door.

I used wood window sashes with hinges and slide bolts on all the windows. Makes for easy access and good vents. Chicken wire was installed on the inside of the windows above the nesting boxes so the sashes can stay open for ventilation.

I used a 12' x 8' tarp on the run for shade and rain. Works very well.

I used the tupperware tub to ferry the girls back and forth from the brood pen to the run until I got the coop built and coupled to the run.

The coop under construction. I didn't really have a plan. Looked at alot of coop pictures and built what I thought was going to be a tractor but ended up being pretty heavy. I have a tendency to overbuild. Used 3/8" exterior ply for the outside with mostly 2x2 framing and 2x3 rafters. Floor is 2x4 and 4x4 with 3/4" treated ply. The nest boxes are 7/16 OSB framing with 3/8" exterior skin. Dimentions are 4'x8', sides are 6' from floor to top of ridge and 4' from floor to bottom of room on the ends.

This run is 6' X 12' and 6' high in the center. Made of treated 2x2's with 2x4's for the ridge board and base boards. I used 1/2" hardware cloth for the lower section and 1" chicken wire for everything else. Two people can move this without any problem. I used an air stapler (used for installing wood trim) to attach the wire to the framing. Used spring hinges on the door.

I used the tupperware tub to ferry the girls back and forth from the brood pen to the run until I got the coop built and coupled to the run.

coophead
Aug 9, 2013

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