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I would crack an egg open and take a look at it to see if it's fertile - the male might not be getting the job done. Things like a penis injury can cause male geese to not be fertile, as well as things like mycoplasma, which geese can carry with no symptoms except infertility. You'll be looking...

Even in their first year they can have fertile eggs, so by now you should have them. Is it possible you have two females? Have you candled the eggs while she is sitting to check if they are developing at all? That would tell you if they are starting and then something is going wrong, or if...

I do it both ways. If I'm incubating them in my GQF, which is basically always with other eggs, I take the tray out for 15 minutes. When I was doing them in my Brinsea with just the goose eggs, I'd take the lid off and just set the lid to the side, running, for 15 minutes. The eggs themselves...

That humidity was probably meant to be wet bulb readings, not percentages. It's a different way of measuring humidity. If you really did keep humidity that high, they likely have not lost enough moisture :( Fingers crossed though! Keep us posted!

Yep, I have :) I always recommend new goose hatchers read this one. I wrote an article about assisted hatching that should help you. It'll answer your questions and has pictures so you can see what you're looking for...

You'll have to candle them to see if they have pipped internally or not. Doing so will not hurt anything, since none are externally pipped. An internal pip would look like a triangular shadow in the air cell.

Must have been a scale issue - they definitely can't gain weight.

I mist while they are cooling. That way the water evaporates off and doesn't affect the humidity inside the incubator :)

Darn :( Will you open the egg to see what went wrong?

Sounds like it's probably internally popped, so you could go ahead and do the safety hole if you wanted :)

That could be an internal pip. It looks kinda like this (this is a chick):

Do you see something that looks like a shadowy triangle in the air cell?

You're welcome, and thanks! I wanted to write it so that a total beginner would feel prepared if they had to assist :)

I'd wait more like 36 hours since geese are slow hatchers :)

This should help: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/guide-to-assisted-hatching-for-all-poultry.72886/ I usually do put a safety hole in all my goose eggs. It doesn't hurt and it can save lives.

That's your issue. You absolutely must keep track of their moisture loss to make sure humidity is where it should be. Most late deaths are the result of improper humidity, so chances are good your humidity is wrong and they are either losing too much moisture or not enough, and that's what's...

They use their feet to push and turn as they break the shell, and they push against the top of the shell with their body, which eventually pops off, freeing their heads :) So yes, they are pushing with their feet against the bottom part of the shell.

Could be several things. Geese can take 32 days to hatch, so it's not too uncommon. Beyond that, low temperature is the cause of late hatches.

Are they completely detached or just saddled? It sounds like one might have moved entirely to the side and be stuck there? I've hatched eggs with saddled or moved air cells, but detached air cells don't usually end up hatching. I've done it a few times before but usually they quit before...

How are the air cells damaged?