Dreaming of Spring Gardening in the middle of a Wisconsin winter

oldhenlikesdogs · Feb 14, 2016

I fill my pot with premoistened potting soil, squish it in, I put my seeds on the surface, I use a small stream of hot water to wash them in, then I put a piece of saran wrap over it held with a rubber band, than put it in a warm place, I use my south windowsill. A few seeds require dark to germinate and I can't remember which, if they don't sprout by the time it says on the pack plus some time I put them somewhere dark. If it's a larger seed I put them slightly under the surface or push them in when they germinate.

21hens-incharge · Feb 14, 2016

Good to know. I think I need to get some wrap on the peat pots. The others have a dome lid for the tray.

SO in about 15 days pretty much everything should be showing signs of life if they are not dud seeds. No notations about the ones I planted needing dark to germinate.

I feel like I am trying to learn how to raise chicks all over again but it is plants.

oldhenlikesdogs · Feb 14, 2016

You'll get, it's learning plant names and species that's the hard part, but eventually you'll understand plant tags in Latin. I haven't used peat pots for a long time, mine would get moldy. I use 4 inch pots that plants come in than transfer seedlings to cells and flats after they get their true leaves, or second set. I didn't like using the domes either because I always cracked them. But there's no one way, so find what works for you, just like chicken keeping.

21hens-incharge · Feb 14, 2016

I cleaned the coop yesterday and was thinking while I dumped the shavings in the coop. Those bags the shavings come in are really strong....... Maybe I can plant taters in them.
I have a space that has what is now a weed to me growing very happily. I have tried to remove the lady bells but they seed so prolifically that they come back no matter how much I dig and rake the area.
If I use the area for bagged taters and pots of taters that may keep them out for a year.

The hens keep them kind of confined to that space so if they come back next year that is ok.

The space is 16 x 8 so is a nice size to be able to use. It does get afternoon shade though.

Ridgerunner · Feb 14, 2016

Plant tags in Latin? I often have to read them twice in English. :oops:

Oh, yeah, there are a lot of different ways to start seeds. Some, like Basil, need light to germinate, you can’t bury them. Some need dark. A general rule of thumb is to bury them about 3 times the diameter of the seed. Which is fine until you get to something like squash or cucumber seed. Which diameter do you use? Anyway you will learn as you go and it usually works out.

There is sort of a Catch 22 in seed starting. You need moisture for them to germinate, that’s where putting a lid on really helps. But after they start to grow you are in danger of them “damping off”. That’s where a fungus attacks them, usually at the dirt line. They turn black and that stem shrivels up. They die. If you use sterile seed starter and do not reuse equipment it’s often not a problem, but it can happen. The big cause is that they are too damp which causes the fungus to grow. I have a small fan I can blow on them to help dry them out after they germinate and get going.

There are all kinds of little tricks you’ll learn as you go along, but it does usually work out.

21hens-incharge · Feb 14, 2016

I went downstairs and put some covers on the little peat pots. Any plants I buy this year I will save the pots from so I can use the plastic ones next time.

I will be sure to remove the covers as soon as they are sprouted so I don't lose the little seedlings. Thanks for the info on what causes damping off.

jerryse · Feb 14, 2016

One of the harder seeds to learn for me was Oriental poppy . Forget the standard packet instructions . They need 50-55 degrees for a couple of weeks . They should sprout by then . If not then up it to room temp .

oldhenlikesdogs · Feb 14, 2016

My mother taught me a trick for Echinacea that get fungus and die partway through growing, sprinkle the plant and soil with cinnamon, it works, don't know if it would work with other plants as Echinacea was the only one I was having troubles with.

Damping off stinks, water enough but not too much and put a fan on them for a bit each day and pray you don't see it. Every year seems to be different for me, but mostly I have it down. I use a bleach water soak when reusing cells or pots.

politicalcenter · Feb 14, 2016

21hens-incharge said:
I think I will head to the greenhouse today and see what flower seeds I can start inside. The wave petunias cost a fortune here so I may get some seeds for them.

I got one flat of seeds planted and some of the peat pots. I have 3 more flats and did not realize there are 6 dozen holes. I have enough flats that I can use one or two for flowers!

I planted onion seeds, brussel sprouts, okra, 4 kinds of tomatoes and for fun a few radish. I of course planted more then we will need but not being seasoned in starting seeds figured going bigger is ok since some are bound not to make it. Some of the seeds I have say to start only 2 to 3 weeks before last frost so those I have to wait on.

One of the light fixtures I got pops the GFCI circuit. It turns out it is the bulbs themselves. I tried it with known good bulbs and it works so I tried the suspect bulbs in a known good fixture and POP. I think I will just get another whole fixture since that is only 15 bucks while one bulb is 12.

So the question of the day from me.........
Do I leave the seeds without light until they sprout or turn the lights on from day one???

^^^^^^^^^^^^^total newbie question I know.^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I think the thing about the light depends on the seed. Some seeds need light to germinate. And it also may depend on how much heat is needed to warm the soil. You want your soil temperature about 70 degrees F. to germinate well.

But I think the seeds you mentioned will germinate without the light.

You can google the Dino method of seed germination and it will tell you a lot about starting seeds.

lazy gardener · Feb 14, 2016

21hens-incharge said:
I think I will head to the greenhouse today and see what flower seeds I can start inside. The wave petunias cost a fortune here so I may get some seeds for them.

I got one flat of seeds planted and some of the peat pots. I have 3 more flats and did not realize there are 6 dozen holes. I have enough flats that I can use one or two for flowers!

I planted onion seeds, brussel sprouts, okra, 4 kinds of tomatoes and for fun a few radish. I of course planted more then we will need but not being seasoned in starting seeds figured going bigger is ok since some are bound not to make it. Some of the seeds I have say to start only 2 to 3 weeks before last frost so those I have to wait on.

One of the light fixtures I got pops the GFCI circuit. It turns out it is the bulbs themselves. I tried it with known good bulbs and it works so I tried the suspect bulbs in a known good fixture and POP. I think I will just get another whole fixture since that is only 15 bucks while one bulb is 12.

So the question of the day from me.........
Do I leave the seeds without light until they sprout or turn the lights on from day one???

^^^^^^^^^^^^^total newbie question I know.^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I will not, can not, refuse to pay the foolish price they ask for a few pelleted petunia seeds. That's why I can be seen dead heading petunias, and stuffing some pods into my pockets during the summer. I'll often buy a 6 pack of some type of flower so I can save it's seeds for an other year, knowing fully well that they are most likely a hybrid, and won't breed true to color the next season. Really not an issue for me! Re: sprouting in light or dark: most seeds, it doesn't matter. But there are a few that are very specific, and must have one or the other. Some, are also very specific about temp, require chilling first, or very warm temps. Most important: When a few of those seeds sprout, it's time to give them all the light you can give them. Once a seedling has gotten leggy, you can't go back and make it stout... unless of course you bury half of that stem in the soil, but many seedlings are not appropriate for that.

oldhenlikesdogs said:
You'll get, it's learning plant names and species that's the hard part, but eventually you'll understand plant tags in Latin. I haven't used peat pots for a long time, mine would get moldy. I use 4 inch pots that plants come in than transfer seedlings to cells and flats after they get their true leaves, or second set. I didn't like using the domes either because I always cracked them. But there's no one way, so find what works for you, just like chicken keeping.

I've never had luck with peat pots either. When re-using pots, it's always a good idea to bleach them first.

21hens-incharge said:
I went downstairs and put some covers on the little peat pots. Any plants I buy this year I will save the pots from so I can use the plastic ones next time.

I will be sure to remove the covers as soon as they are sprouted so I don't lose the little seedlings. Thanks for the info on what causes damping off.

Lots of fun, growing your own. Just like chickens.

Dreaming of Spring Gardening in the middle of a Wisconsin winter

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