A Guide to Humidity, Weighing and Lockdown.

[WVduckchick]

I'm new to BYC and not sure if it's effective to join in on an old thread. Is it?
I enjoyed reading this write up on humidity, especially the often debated lockdown methods. I've read so much in the last couple of months as I prepared to incubate my first duck eggs. I've been weighing and canceling and reading, and reading some more. I started at 45% RH, weight loss wasn't enough so lowered to 35. Still not enough by day 18 so lowered to 25. My Hovabator will run at 10% if I add no water. So as day 25 approached, I was just under a weight loss of 13%. Not ideal. So being new to this, I wanted to know why is humidity raised so high 3 days before hatch? I could really use those days to keep it low and reduce moisture. I've kept the temp very consistent so not expecting an early hatch.
I do believe in experience and gut feeling so when I read what experienced, successful hatchers have done, I feel it's valuable information. I also like the scientific method and found great data from various sources that favored a lower humidity to start. And in two highly regarded sources (Storey's Guide and Poultry Keeper) they both say to raise humidity 24-48 hours before the first expected pip "to prevent shell membranes from drying out excessively" and to "help soften the egg shells before piping." I also read that lowering humidity too much at the end causes the weight loss to potentially come from the bird itself like its legs rather than moisture from the inside of the egg. Not sure if this is true.

So my dilemma is, do I continue to keep humidity low to lose those last precise kilograms or do I raise it even though I've only lost 12.5% by day 27 to soften the shell for easier piping?

Sounds like you've done quite a bit of research, so here's my 2 cents worth - they will continue to lose weight, even though you raise humidity. I have found air cell size to be as important (if not more so) than actual weight numbers. Yes, they correlate, but shape of the air cell vs. shape of the egg makes a bit of difference when I make a decision on humidity.

If you feel the need to wait one more day, its not going to hurt. Wait 12 hours, wait 24 hours... There are folks who never raise humidity and have fine hatches. There is unfortunately a lot of trial and error to find what works for you. Local conditions make it impossible for anyone to give you a set number or rule. I could tell my neighbor what would work for her, but I have no idea what would work best for you.

After all that research, you should be able to trust your instinct, and hope for the best!

 

[Alaskaduck]

Thanks for the input, that certainly helps. I think being new to this, the numbers are easy to see, that doesn't take experience to use a scale but the candling is different. All I can do is compare to pics online. I'm seeing how this can become as obsession! Oops, I mean a hobby
Possible part of my problem with this batch is #1, it's my first time. #2, the eggs were shipped which doesn't help and #3 the eggs vary greatly in size. They aren't very uniform as they might have been if I picked them myself. So one egg has a huge looking air cell, another much smaller (in comparison to its size and shape). Obviously there's only 1 incubator so the more average eggs benefit the most and not the outliers. Today is day 27 so I'm very excited to see a first pip..

 

[WVduckchick]

Thanks for the input, that certainly helps. I think being new to this, the numbers are easy to see, that doesn't take experience to use a scale but the candling is different. All I can do is compare to pics online. I'm seeing how this can become as obsession! Oops, I mean a hobby
Possible part of my problem with this batch is #1, it's my first time. #2, the eggs were shipped which doesn't help and #3 the eggs vary greatly in size. They aren't very uniform as they might have been if I picked them myself. So one egg has a huge looking air cell, another much smaller (in comparison to its size and shape). Obviously there's only 1 incubator so the more average eggs benefit the most and not the outliers. Today is day 27 so I'm very excited to see a first pip..

Hobby.... uh huh... right

Shipped eggs are in a whole different category! But can be a fun challenge if you keep expectations on the low side! lol
With shipped eggs, we don't always know the exact date laid, storage techniques before being shipped, and then the lovely postal service handling!
But unless some eggs are more "important" than others, usually going with the average or majority is the way to go.

Best of luck on your hatch! Even with as many chicks as I have hatched, there isn't much cuter than a newly hatched duckling in my book! They will get you hook, line, and sinker.

 

[RubyNala97]

I'm new to BYC and not sure if it's effective to join in on an old thread. Is it?
I enjoyed reading this write up on humidity, especially the often debated lockdown methods. I've read so much in the last couple of months as I prepared to incubate my first duck eggs. I've been weighing and canceling and reading, and reading some more. I started at 45% RH, weight loss wasn't enough so lowered to 35. Still not enough by day 18 so lowered to 25. My Hovabator will run at 10% if I add no water. So as day 25 approached, I was just under a weight loss of 13%. Not ideal. So being new to this, I wanted to know why is humidity raised so high 3 days before hatch? I could really use those days to keep it low and reduce moisture. I've kept the temp very consistent so not expecting an early hatch.
I do believe in experience and gut feeling so when I read what experienced, successful hatchers have done, I feel it's valuable information. I also like the scientific method and found great data from various sources that favored a lower humidity to start. And in two highly regarded sources (Storey's Guide and Poultry Keeper) they both say to raise humidity 24-48 hours before the first expected pip "to prevent shell membranes from drying out excessively" and to "help soften the egg shells before piping." I also read that lowering humidity too much at the end causes the weight loss to potentially come from the bird itself like its legs rather than moisture from the inside of the egg. Not sure if this is true.

So my dilemma is, do I continue to keep humidity low to lose those last precise kilograms or do I raise it even though I've only lost 12.5% by day 27 to soften the shell for easier piping?

I realize I'm probably to late in this response but I wanted to commend you for doing so much research! I've been hatching eggs for a couple years now and I still need to do different things for each batch of eggs, as each batch is unique. Right now I have duck eggs in the incubator that I just locked down. I struggled with the same issue as you except my incubator runs at 25% dry. Which is where I needed to keep it the whole incubation because the air cells were staying small. I waited an extra day and a half to increase humidity. Also for next time you can spray the eggs once or twice a day to encourage air cell growth during incubation. The spike and then drop in humidity actually pulls moisture from the eggs. I candle a lot during the last couple days and as you hatch more and more you will get comfortable in knowing what the eggs will look like right before internal pip. If your air cells have not grown enough then I do not think you will have issues with the babies by waiting until internal pip or right before to increase the humidity.

 

[Alaskaduck]

Thanks so much, I appreciate any extra bits of info. Today is day 29 and I have 5 that have piped and are slowly zipping. The other two are still moving and at least one has internally piped. Of the 11 shipped eggs, 1 was infertile and two had blood rings by day 3 or so. If all these 8 make it I will feel so fortunate.

 

[Dragon Slayer Trinket]

Hi,
I've read some articles saying that the temperature of the incubator needs to be lowered for lockdown. I'm incubating geese that should go into lockdown in about four days. I've read that some people lower the temperature by 0.5 degrees Fahrenheit, others have lowered it by one degree or 1.5. Should I lower the temperature for my geese or leave it be?

 

[Iluveggers]

This made so much sense to me! Thank you for writing such an informative post that I can completely understand and apply!