A Thread About Trees

If it works for you that is awesome. Unfortunately our mulberry tree has never had any seedlings sprout up from the fallen fruit, so apparently just planting them will not work for seeds from our tree. I went into my mulberry planting project expecting failure because many of the things I have read said that if the tree didn't have a bunch of seedlings under it every year, then it was probably a graft that would not produce viable seed. 90 days later I planted four seeds, and in two weeks from planting one had sprouted and now a little over three months later I have a second seedling. I don't know... Maybe ours is some kind of variety that needs a really good stratification period.

Very interesting on the graft bit. I have seeds from both white and black mulberries that I'm using for my experiment. Seeds were purchased online, and after being in a moist paper towel at room temperature for two weeks, one of my black mulberries has actually sprouted. I put the others in the refrigerator for a little while to see what they do. I'm quite pleased to have a sprout so far, as I have no idea if these were cold stratified or not. It seems like most of the seeds I've been testing (not mulberries) are quite fussy about being planted before they sprout and establish a root.
 
Very interesting on the graft bit. I have seeds from both white and black mulberries that I'm using for my experiment. Seeds were purchased online, and after being in a moist paper towel at room temperature for two weeks, one of my black mulberries has actually sprouted. I put the others in the refrigerator for a little while to see what they do. I'm quite pleased to have a sprout so far, as I have no idea if these were cold stratified or not. It seems like most of the seeds I've been testing (not mulberries) are quite fussy about being planted before they sprout and establish a root.

Being grafted should not make a difference. If grafted it could be a variety that will set fruit without pollination. Seedless persimmons are that way. If not pollinated the fruit is seedless. Some trees will produce blank seeds if not pollinated like fig trees. I always stratify stone fruits like peaches and plums. I have seen videos where people crack the pit and remove the seed. It then will sprout without stratification. It seems they need stratified to allow the pit to open enough to let water in. Locust need the seed coat nicked to let water in. All very interesting. Nature has some interesting ways.
 
I guess I should have been more clear. The grafted plants in question would have been clones of improved or hybrid varieties which were A- not likely to breed true, or B- not likely to breed at all.

It wasn't the fact that they were grafted that was a cause for problems... It was what was grafted that could cause problems.
 
More info on mulberry trees. There are male and female trees. No fruit on male trees. In Illinois we have the native red mulberry (Morris Rubrum) plus the white mulberry (Morris Alba). Mostly mixes of the two. I do find some that appear to be one or the other. White mulberries can be black,white,or in between. I have seen male trees develop a female branch after storm damage. I have seen this twice on 2 different trees. I have also seen a white fruited tree change to black fruit after being cut back. These cases are likely bud sports.
 
I am hoping to get more mulberries to sprout to go with the lonely little black mulberry I have coming up. I have seeds for white that I'm trying, as well. I have yet to get my hands on red mulberry seeds, because I grounded myself from buying more seeds until April
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I have two lemon seeds sprouting from my experiment. Yay.
 
I guess I should have been more clear. The grafted plants in question would have been clones of improved or hybrid varieties which were A- not likely to breed true, or B- not likely to breed at all.

It wasn't the fact that they were grafted that was a cause for problems... It was what was grafted that could cause problems.

I was doing research on apples and was surprised to find that this is a huge problem with them, but mostly because they have such screwy genes. I'll bet that was why the trees in my grandma's yard never produced well - no one had grafted them or trained them. In their case, grafting would have been great. However, I did take several cuttings from trees in my grandpa's (different grandparent) orchard and am going to try rooting them. I'm looking forward to working with these trees however many years down the road
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especially since I have crab apples I can cross them with.
 
What kind of trees? Just shade trees, or are you looking more for trees that produce edible fruits? If you are just looking for shade trees and aren't opposed to the Honey Locust, I'd be happy to send you some seeds. They grow fairly quickly and are tolerant of drought and poor soil. They can make a mess in Autumn as older trees, though, if they produce pods. But ours are fantastic shade trees and very hardy. And I've got plenty of little beans right now.
Sorry it took me forever to respond. I decided to go with a few dwarf fruit trees (peach, lime and maybe apple later) and just fence them off so my dogs can't get to them. Thank you though. I'll post pictures when I can.
 
Hi,
We are going to cut down the old, non producing 69 yr. old apple trees.
I want to plant a 6 tree dwarf orchard in their place. the kid which are
6 ft. high at most.I was thinking 2 apple, 2 peach and 2 pear( or cherry). We are
in western PA Zone 5B at the foot of the western side of the Alleghenies.
It usually gets down to -17 below windchiil a couple of times during the winter.
Tho we had 2 polar vortexes come thru this winter plummeting to 30 below
for a night or 2. Snow apple trees grow real well here. I was also hoping to find
a Maiden Blush. Such a great fruit. MB apples need 1/2 as much sugar in
applesauce because they are so sweet.. Need advice on peaches and pears and cherry.
Thanks,
Karen
 
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