Aggressive Rooster

[bobbi-j]

Hmmm, I know I couldn't personally kill him myself, I'm just not wired that way. I will try separating (have done so before) but he really only hits on these 2 for some reason. Until I can find a suitable long stick, I'll continue to use the water bottle. Seems to be working, for now at least. He's not mean to the 2 hens, per se, he's just SO HUGE I think he hurt the one just by jumping on her. I did put a hen saddle on her but it's getting too warm here to keep in on much longer. Why can't we all just get along?? Oh, and thanks for your advice!

I would separate HIM. How big is your coop in feet by feet? How about your run? How many feet of roost space do you have? Have you checked for mites?

 

[rebrascora]

Your limping hen could well have a viral disease which causes paralysis and is often triggered by stress and that cockerel is without doubt stressing them. You do not want an outbreak of that in your flock. I would pen the rooster up for 6 months until his hormones cool down a bit and hopefully he can be more civilised and gentlemanly about mating but if he is still too aggressive with the hens, get rid of him and start again. There are plenty of cockerels out there looking for a home. He should be finding food for the girls, wooing them and then mating them when they are compliant, not grabbing them and jumping on top. It doesn't matter how big he is, that is not the problem. I've had a large adult legbar rooster run with a mixed flock including a few bantams and mate them all including the bantams with no ill effects because they liked him and cooperated. Young cockerels are the bane of any flock.

 

[Eckielady]

Man oh man!! There are just too many nice roosters out there for me to ever keep a mean one around. Just not worth someone getting hurt.

 

[laceychicken]

Hmmm, I know I couldn't personally kill him myself, I'm just not wired that way. I will try separating (have done so before) but he really only hits on these 2 for some reason. Until I can find a suitable long stick, I'll continue to use the water bottle. Seems to be working, for now at least. He's not mean to the 2 hens, per se, he's just SO HUGE I think he hurt the one just by jumping on her. I did put a hen saddle on her but it's getting too warm here to keep in on much longer. Why can't we all just get along?? Oh, and thanks for your advice!

Some of my hens wear saddles year round. I am in Indiana. We do have plenty of shade.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

Hmmm, I know I couldn't personally kill him myself, I'm just not wired that way. I will try separating (have done so before) but he really only hits on these 2 for some reason. Until I can find a suitable long stick, I'll continue to use the water bottle. Seems to be working, for now at least. He's not mean to the 2 hens, per se, he's just SO HUGE I think he hurt the one just by jumping on her. I did put a hen saddle on her but it's getting too warm here to keep in on much longer. Why can't we all just get along?? Oh, and thanks for your advice!

Definitely separate him! Even if you aren't wired to kill a rooster... surely you aren't wired to see hens brutalized either! He has chosen hens... sad that the ones he likes are the one getting the brunt of his aggression. You must protect the girl that's limping, she's injured and he's re-injuring her.

Honestly it's his life or the "limper".

A water bottle is fine. In the run is fine. Doesn't matter what you use or where you're at as long as it works for you! To me there is no such thing as a suitable stick and I will pick up anything in reaching distance and make contact. PVC pipes I have laying around my yard make for great arm extensions.

Also, plenty of people will respectfully introduce him to their cone even if YOU can't.

Are you keeping him for a reason?

 

[Kiki]

Here is what Beekissed said--I think this is the post bobbi-j is referring to.

"I'm going to give you a clue on "rooster speak"....holding him down doesn't mean anything to him. If you'll watch how roosters interact between dominant ones and subordinate ones, there is rarely any, if ever, holding a bird down for a long time when there is an altercation. There is very quick flogging, gripping by the back of the head and flinging him away or getting him down and giving some savage pecking to the back of the head or neck. No holding him down and nothing else. That's a rooster on a hen maneuver, not rooster on rooster.

Because your rooster is attacking you, you are the subordinate in this picture. You are getting dominated by your bird simply because you are walking where a subordinate isn't supposed to be walking when a dominant is in the area. What you never see is a dominant rooster getting attacked by a subordinate rooster unless there is going to be a definite shift in power, at which time the sub will challenge the dom and win...or lose. So far you are losing and not even challenging.

If you want to win this battle, you must go on the offensive, not the defensive. He who attacks first, and is still claiming the area when the other guy leaves it, is the winner. Some people never have to go on the offensive because their movements in the coop are so decisive that they move and act like a dominant and a 2 ft. rooster is smart enough to recognize a dominant attitude and behavior...which is likely why he's never attacked your husband. Most men move more decisively than do women and children and they rarely step around a bird, but walk through them.

Carrying him around also doesn't mean anything to him...it just doesn't translate at all. His environment is that coop and run floor and that's where you need to speak to him, in a language he understands. Because they are quick on their feet and can evade you, you need a training tool like a long, limber, supple rod of some kind...cutting a nice switch from a shrub or tree that will lengthen your reach by 5 ft. really helps in this. Don't use a rake or broom because they are too clumsy and stiff and can put the hurts on the guy when you don't really mean to.

When you enter your coop, walk with decisive movements and walk directly towards your rooster. Move him away from the feeder and the rest of the flock and keep a slow, determined pressure on him until he leaves the coop. The stick will help you guide him. Then...wait patiently while he gets his bird mind around what just happened. He will try to come back in the coop...let him. When he gets a good bit into that coop, take your switch and give him a good smack on the fluffy feathers under his tail if you can aim it well. If you cannot, just smack the floor near him very hard and fast until he hops and runs and keep at it until he leaves the coop once again. Repeat this process until he is too wary to come back in the coop.

Feed your hens. When he tries to come to the feeder, you "attack" him with the switch...smack the wall by the pop door just as he tries to enter. If he makes it inside, pursue him with the stick either smacking the floor or tapping him on the back or the head until he leaves in a hurry. Make him stay outside while you sit there and enjoy watching your hens eat. Use the stick to keep him from the flock..just him. Don't worry about the hens running and getting excited when this is happening...they will get over it. This is for the future of your flock and your management of it.

When the hens have had a good tucker....leave the coop and let him come back in. Go out later and walk through that flock and use your legs to scatter birds if they get in your way...top roosters do not step to one side for any other bird in the flock. You shouldn't either. Take your stick and startle him with a smack on the floor next to him when he is least expecting it...make that bird jump and RUN. Make him so nervous around you that he is always looking over his shoulder and trying to get out of your way. THAT'S how he needs to be from now on in your lives together. Forget about pets or cuddles...this is a language and behavior he understands. You can hand feed him and such later...right now you need to establish that when you move, he moves...away. When you turn your back, he doesn't move towards you...ever.

Then test him...take your stick along, move around in the coop, bend over with your back turned to him, feed, water, etc....but keep one eye on that rooster. If he even makes one tiny step in your direction or in your "zone", go on the attack and run him clear on out of the coop. Then keep him out while everyone else is eating.

THAT'S how a dominant rooster treats a subordinate. They don't let them crow, mate or even eat in their space. If the subordinate knows his place and watches over his shoulder a lot, he may get to come and eat while the other rooster is at the feeder...but he doesn't ever relax if he knows what is good for him. At any given time the dominant will run him off of that feed and he knows it, so he eats with one eye toward the door. If he feels the need to crow, it's not usually where the dom can reach him...maybe across the yard.

If your rooster crows while you are there, move towards him and keep on the pressure until he stops. He doesn't get to crow while you are there. He can crow later...not while you are there.

It all sounds time consuming but it really isn't...shouldn't take more than minutes for each lesson and you can learn a lot as you go along. And it can be fun if you venture into it with the right attitude....this is rooster training that really works if you do it correctly. This can work on strange roosters, multiple roosters and even old roosters...they can all learn. You rule the coop...now act like it. Carrying is for babies...you have a full grown rooster on your hands, not a baby."

Where was this originally posted? I am looking to quote Bee's original post.

 

[IamRainey]

Thank you for that excellent information, dogkahuna.

My rooster is about 25 weeks old and I'm only 18 months or so into having chickens. When Maurice flew at me the first time I had no idea that could happen. I swatted at him. He did it again.

He's done it a few more times. Not consistently when I'm in the run but as often as not if my back is turned and I'm not expecting it. I've swatted, used my foot to swat, then picked him up and restrained him. Then I read your entry.

Now when I go into the run I have a birch branch that's about 3' long. I just tap his chest and back him away from me. Every time I go in there. If I'm bringing treats I push him off them for a few minutes before I let him tuck in.

It's been about 4 days and he seems to be backing off when I enter the run. Still, I give him a few pokes and make him back up even more.

I will thank you forever if I can keep him because of your good advice. He's a beauty and if he will develop into an equally well-behaved bird he will be a joy to have.

Thanks from me and Maurice.

PS He never bothers me when I'm in the coop mucking out. Not even when my back's to him. And good thing 'cause I couldn't get the job done without turning away from the pop door and leaning over in what must look like a submissive position!

 

[IamRainey]

Today I wan't able to tap M. Maurice with my stick. When he saw it, he just moved right back. I think we've come to a meeting of the minds! I'm so happy if he's going to be a nicely behaved roo.

Now if I can just make the neighbors happy I'll have everything!

 

[oldhenlikesdogs]

Good you are making progress, don't give up watching your back yet.

 

[IamRainey]

Good advice! I will continue. And I also want to get other family members out there doing it as well. Particularly my 8yo grandson. But it's clear -- I'm the chicken wrangler chez moi. But that's only fair -- chickens were my idea.