At what age do you wean goats???

Wait for the screaming in the morning, that's why mine always end up with water in the bottles, hopefully you are stronger than me, and good for you for being able to hold three bottles, yours must not have done too much butting of the bottles. Poor babies I can hear their cries.
 
I bought two Pygmy goats (Bonnie & Clyde) and instead of making me wait till they were weaned the owners allowed me to take the babies and Momma home with me. This way I could watch them grow from the beginning. They told me that they would be back to take Momma home at 8 weeks but ended up taking her back when the babies were 9 weeks old. Clyde ended up with a stone in his bladder and almost died. The long and the short of it is that they were weaned much too soon. This was not only the vet that told me this but so did other goat owners. They are now on milk replacement until they reach 4 months old. I'm starting to wean them now.
 
Stones are usually from too much grain, or too rich of a diet, especially in wethers. I usually wean at around 3 months but have weaned at 8 weeks without problems. It depends on whether they are consuming enough hay and if they are ruminating.
 
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How much grain should I feed my goats? They are 3 1/2 months old. I can't seem to get a good answer on this. I've read that they should never be fed grain all the way up to .5 lb. and everything in between. So frustrating trying to find the proper amount to feed them. I currently give them 3/4 cup per day (split into 2 feedings).
 
That sounds like an okay amount. You will run into more troubles if you suddenly change the amount.

It's hard to give an exact amount because factors such as grain type and it's protein content, what type of hay they are consuming and it's protein content, and things like age and sex and intended purpose of the goat can change many things. A meat goat needs more grain to reach market weight than a pet wether goat does.

I have raised kids on zero grain, but most get a handful or two a day, slowly increased up to 2 cups a day for a few months before I stop feeding it. It can depend on whether the goat is thin or in good condition too.

It is always best to keep grain or rations as low as possible as goats are ruminants meant to eat complex browse. Grain can upset the system and can kill them.

If what you are feeding seems to be enough for them to keep growing without getting too fat than it is a good amount. Adjust as needed based on how they are doing on it and what else you are feeding.
 
Thank you. My male goat has already had stones but that was definitely from a drastic diet change. Since he has recovered he has been on the same diet so I'll just continue with what I'm doing although he looks very bloated today. Hope he doesn't have stones again. I'll be keeping a close eye on him.
 
I haven't had a single stone ever in my goats. I don't feed rich alfalfa hay and no rations after a few months old. They might get a bit of corn during the winter but otherwise hay, grass, goat mineral and baking soda which can prevent digestive upsets. Occasional treats and tree branches are given as well. A rich diet is not good for wether goats.
 
Urinary Calculi is from almost always from improper Ca/P ratio. When you are feeding bucks/wethers you need to keep in mind what the ratio is in the feed you are giving, hay, minerals, etc. It should be In between 2:1-4:1. Often some hay such as alfalfa or perrenial peanut should be given to give Ca and balance out the ratio.

Ammonium Chloride is a good additive if it is not already present in their feed/minerals. It makes their urine slightly acidic, making crystals not form as easily. Do not give baking soda. That negates the ammonium chloride.

Do NOT feed corn. Totally off balance nutrional wise. Super high in Phosphorus which can cause UC and also rumen acidosis/bloat if you aren't careful.
 
Thank you for the encouragement! I had no idea when I bought them. We do love them though and I believe that their circumstances here are much better than they were where they came from. Here's a pic of our babies!
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SO CUTE! Just a little tip, Make sure their collars are loose enough for them to breath (Which it looks like it is) but tight enough so they don't get caught on something and choke themselves.. my uncle's dog passed away that way...
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Didn't want to bum anyone out by telling ya'll about his dog, but i thought it might be a good reminder how important it is they don't get caught on anything. i'm sure your geese are in good hands and they'll live a long and happy life.

(I posted this then went back to add this; Sorry about calling them geese, i call my goats geese cause when i got them i called them a silly goose, which turned to silly geese which turned to just, geese. Now i call everyone's goats geese. When they bleat i say "The Geese are honking again........"
Anyway, i wanted to make sure you understood why i called them geese. I certainly didn't mean it as a insult, and wanted to make sure you understood that.)
 
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X2. A word of warning. Make sure the collars are tight enough so the goat can't get its nose caught in it. I had a friend who lost a couple kids this way.
 

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