At what age should you buy a cockerel?

[PeepersMama]

Hens are always happier without a Rooster.....Roosters breed many times a day.....



Cheers!

In my experience, when we had to send our BO man to heaven due to mareks, the girls did seem to miss him. There was alot more fighting on his end of the roost for about 2 weeks after he died.

I would get a roo that's a week younger than the hens, because roos mature faster than hens, and if the hens are slightly more mature than he is, he won't get to be the big boss till he's big enough to dominate them.
The temperament of the roo plays the biggest role. Smaller roos tend to be more over-zealous breeders, but the bigger the bird, typically, the calmer his temperament. My sussex boy probably would've killed a hen if he wasn't islolated, because the girls in his mini flock weren't maturing as fast as he was, and there were a few banties that didn't like him at all. He would've flattened them

Good luck!

 

[PeepersMama]

Wow, thanks again for all of the responses! I'd definitely get a bigger coop if I was to get a rooster (I probably will anyway as no doubt I'll want to get more pullets at some point). Outside space isn't an issue, they have a 200sq ft run and 3 acres of field and gardens to free range in during the day time.

I really appreciate all of the sensible advice you've all given. I think I will probably go down the route of getting sexed chicks and getting my current pullets to raise them if this is possible?

They will only raise them if they are broody. Otherwise, they'd probably eat them. IF one of them does go broody, then wait til they are over a year before giving them eggs to hatch. Only in rare occasions will a broody pullet hatch eggs and raise the babies with no problems. Alot of my austra white pullets went broody in their first year, and Spyke would get up for a "quick break" and take an hour long dust bath. By the time she got back the eggs were cold. Such was the story of all the young broody mamas.

Although, some breeds do seem to have more of a motherly instinct outside broodiness. Our buff orp hen, Goldilocks, would follow Parakeet around while she had chicks, and let the babies steal worms right out if her beak with no fuss

She was always the greeter chicken

 

[wingedshade]

I think same age or close. A much younger roo might get 'schooled' by the hens and not end up as top dog. I don't know how that will affect breeding. I have a non dominant roo, the pullets don't take crap from him. Although I think if he tried any mature stuff the bigger roos and the larger hens would kick his ***.

 

[Bantam brother]

It would be good around the same age,the eggs are good either way

 

[Lady of McCamley]

@rebrascora I think market chickens are done at 8 weeks.

So you don't process until 24 weeks? What breeds? And how do you prepare them?

I am planning to process later like that, but many swear not to go past 16. Can you elaborate?

Sorry it's off topic!

The only reason they can do 8 weeks is because they are using Cornish Cross which grow that fast and break legs much longer than that.

I also free range and have slower growing breeds. For my SFH, one breeder told they their feed conversion to weight changed around 30 weeks. I agree they seem small still at 16 weeks.

I wonder if they could be brined during the cool down or resting period before freezing?

I don't know how feasible it is, but I do think protein makes a difference in growth factor. Maybe you can add peas or split peas to your feed to increase protein? They do sell them in feed and feed sized bags.

If you have the time, fermenting your feed is awesome. It increases the digestibility, ups protein by 12% (that' your # times 0.12 then added back to your #). So your 16% would increase to 17.92% if my calculations are correct. It also increases probiotics. By increasing nutritional value it should decrease consumption some. Win Win. And with it being wet there seems to be less waste. Check out the link in my signature line. People who have processed their chickens for years now say it gives the chicken a nice clean flavor as well, but I am just getting there. The difference for me was in the poo of brooder chicks. It was almost solid and the smell was decreased immensely. With my free rangers, the poo isn't as consistent but since I saw a huge difference in brooder poo, that was enough proof for me.

Thanks for sharing!

@EggSighted4Life

Look into Buckeyes. They come to table around 16 to 18 weeks if you push them with meat bird 22%. (The breed is stated to come to 5lb by 18 to 20 weeks latest...some claim 6lb by 16 weeks, but that is with special lines and good care).

I had to butcher mine early due to family scheduling (a wedding I think), and at 15 weeks they were a bit light at 3 to 3 1/2 pounds, but good eating...and I had them in a mixed pen with other non-meat types so they did not get the higher protein.

Of all the birds I've raised, the Buckeye came the closest to a true dual purpose bird that had cocks to table before a lot of crowing and months of feed.

LofMc

 

[Lady of McCamley]

I'm looking at getting a Light Sussex cockerel to join my flock and have a couple of questions.

1. My pullets are currently around 24 weeks old, when you get a cockerel is it better if he is around the same age, older or younger?

2. I currently have 3 hens, would it be necessary to buy more if I was to get a cockerel?

3. Would you still eat the eggs even though there is a chance of them being fertile?

The reason for getting a boy is I hope to raise chicks in the future.

You've had a lot of good feedback on your question, but I thought I'd give my perspective as I did things a bit differently and actually enjoyed how it worked out.

First, I agree, look at why you want to raise chicks. With the acreage and size of coop, it sounds like you have plenty of space. If you have clear goals and a plan to roll with the ups and downs, you can have a lot of fun raising your own chicks.

But figure out why you want the chicks. What are your breeding goals.

Do you want a sustainable flock for meat and eggs? Backyard mixes can be excellent for that. Continue to naturally select for hardiness and meat/production by not over intervening with weak or failing birds (assuming you are using good flock keeping practices) and continually choose from birds that meet your demands to breed forward.

Do you want to breed a particular breed to standard? That will take good breeding stock and time with a real willingness to cull (re-home or eat or simply dispose) of those who do not meet standard. Obviously you'll need to connect with others in the breed to learn about the standards and how to improve your flock.

Is this simply a fun hobby? That is perfectly acceptable as well. However, as stated by others, you will need to deal with the extra hens and roosters, especially the roosters. That may not be fun as stated by a number of others.

Do you want pets? Then don't breed. Simply buy hens or sexed chicks. Keep them until they are too old and die of natural causes. Coddle and have fun with them, but don't breed them.

Does a rooster make hens happy? Well, you've got some feedback there from honest perspectives, mostly negative as many roosters are not kind nor a benefit to hens.

I would add though, I think it really depends on the rooster. A really good rooster does settle a flock, and here is my experience.

For years I kept a hen only flock as I was slowly building up my breeds and quality (from breeder eggs and chicks) and selecting which ones I wanted to keep and determining my purpose.

Although I liked the idea of dual purpose eggs/meat (and may come back to that), I decided to first focus on egg color. (I love selling a colorful egg basket). So, I wanted to breed for unique colors (dark brown, olive, green, etc.) After a lot of research, I determined the best way to go about that was to have a dark layer rooster over blue or green layer hens and other layer colored hens.

So I purchased pullets, chicks, and hatching eggs to form a good base flock. In time I moved to solely brooding with hens, and I keep a stable of brooding types that are utilized when they go into brood. (I rarely heat brood anymore.)

During this time I watched and analyzed the different hatches and kept an eye out for a good rooster. I personally think you can tell the temperament of a good rooster from chick hood, but you must continue to watch him in the teen phase to be certain.

So, I kept an eye on my hatches for a rooster that would fit the bill (dark layer genes, good temperament). Several years of efforts went by and I got a large portion of hens but few roosters (very amazing, let me tell you). Then the roosters I got were snotty as chicks and worse as teens (rehomed or went to the freezer camp).

I actually found my rooster from purchased chicks as I had heard Barnevelder roosters are typically pleasant. I had hoped for a breeding pair of Barnevelders, but instead I got 2 roosters. One was clearly a snot (attacking me upon startle), but the other had nice conformation and a very nice temperament. I began to work with him to reinforce that temperament by handling him and giving him treats upon handling. Brother got rehomed, and I kept my Bernard.

Bernard was kept in a separate pen with the pullets he was raised with until he was near mating age. He had not been broody raised (one of my few purchased chicks for breed stock), so I took time to integrate him into the main flock with his brooder mates.At first, the large gals gave him no respect. But he's a charmer, and in time he won over all their affections.

He has always been a gentleman...largely from his basic temperament, partially from my handling, but also from being hazed a bit from mature hens to know flock manners. Why do I think that? Because I've seen my broody raised roosters get put in their place by their mommas, and I see a lot less snottiness from them because of that. So growing up in the flock kept a nice rooster from developing nasty habits as held in check by broody hens.

What does he do that benefits my flock? He really does take care of them. He looks out for treats and calls the hens. He looks out for hawks, and calls the hens. He listens carefully to any distressed sound, and runs to see what is going on. He intervenes in hen squabbles. I used to have a considerable amount of hen squabbling...I have none now as Berny runs over and does his little dance to break up the spat.

He is also AWESOME with my brooding girls. I keep a brooding stable with my bantams for expensive hatches, but I've been letting my big gals brood in a corner in the main coop with the mixed breed batches. The established hens know how to take care of their babies, but there can be some flack as they first introduce them to the rest of the big girls.

On the first day of introduction, if a nosy hen harasses the newly returning broody and her chicks, there's Berny doing his little dance and deflecting the offender away from the brooding momma and chick.

He is simply awesome. And I know how very lucky I am to have him.

How did I get him?

Totally luck of the genes, but I recognized his sweet temperament from chickhood and did everything to encourage that.

His personality showed him to be stellar as he was handled. If he hadn't? Freezer camp or rehome would have happened.

My girls are calmer and do look for his protection. Even the skittish new pullets in grow out ran to him when a hawk did a dive by. Where he goes, they go. When I have new pullets from the grow out pen, it is Berny's job to help integrate them into the flock. I open the grow out gates, and the young girls hover unsure (like at a dance where the young teen girls hug the wall). Yup, he does his little dance and attempts to woo them. If they snub him or run, he backs off. Then he waits another day to charm them. In time, he has them integrated in the flock faster than I could have.

So my answer to you would be, as it sounds like you want to take your time and if you are purposed to grow chickens (not pets), then purchase more hens, hatch more chicks, and slowly decide what your goals are for your flock. Egg production? Egg color? Meat production? Eye candy? Breed standard?

Then consider choosing your best hatched or grown rooster that meets those demands rehoming or culling those that do not. You will be able to know what temperament he has and help reinforce that for your flock.

My experience for a smaller flock (10 to 13 girls to 1 rooster)

LofMc

 

[lazy gardener]

Love to hear other folks husbandry methods and goals.

 

[dekel18042]

I think same age or close. A much younger roo might get 'schooled' by the hens and not end up as top dog. I don't know how that will affect breeding. I have a non dominant roo, the pullets don't take crap from him. Although I think if he tried any mature stuff the bigger roos and the larger hens would kick his ***.

I would get either a mature rooster who has settled down and is gentle with the hens or go the opposite and if I had mature hens put a younger cockerel in with them. True, they will put him in his place but he will learn manners and you should wind up with a good rooster.
If you get a mature one you already know his temperament. Often people have extra roosters that are nice or they are willing to let a favorite go to a good home if they want to bring in new blood.
My avatar rooster was huge and had the sweetest temperament. He started life as a singleton (a test egg in the incubator with expensive shipped eggs, none of which hatched.) At eight weeks old as the weather was getting colder he was thrown into the adult pen in sort of a sink or swim deal; He was fine and for the first year was the secondary rooster who took over the flock.
I have a rooster now I added to my flock as an adult, another adult who grew up here and a cockerel I'm keeping for a backup rooster.

 

[lazy gardener]

I would get either a mature rooster who has settled down and is gentle with the hens or go the opposite and if I had mature hens put a younger cockerel in with them. True, they will put him in his place but he will learn manners and you should wind up with a good rooster.
If you get a mature one you already know his temperament. Often people have extra roosters that are nice or they are willing to let a favorite go to a good home if they want to bring in new blood.
My avatar rooster was huge and had the sweetest temperament. He started life as a singleton (a test egg in the incubator with expensive shipped eggs, none of which hatched.) At eight weeks old as the weather was getting colder he was thrown into the adult pen in sort of a sink or swim deal; He was fine and for the first year was the secondary rooster who took over the flock.
I have a rooster now I added to my flock as an adult, another adult who grew up here and a cockerel I'm keeping for a backup rooster.

agreed, my thoughts exactly.

 

[RezChamp]

"At what age should you buy a cockrall."...... I was 8 when I bought my first 1

I personally feel as if an older rooster is easier on the hens. More "etiquette".
One poster likened Roos to "teenagers"
I suppose there is perks to goin either way but for only 3 hens I'd go with an older "less urgent" rooster. I have 47 birds. 2 older "flock cocks" that keep things under control and I also have a 2 chosen from each breed that kinda hangout together waiting to get older. I haven't had a problem with "bare backs". The only "bare back" hens I had this year were the BuffOrp and a RIR that I housed with a RedGolden pheasant cock.(sadly nothing hatched)
We always eat our eggs. Sometimes there is a spot. No problem. 3 times this summer my grandotrs and my youngest dotr ( more like sisters) retrieved the eggs. Like they saw me do they washed all the eggs and put them in crates. My oldest dotr was horrified all 3 times.....