- Mar 6, 2014
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It works, FINALLY!!! Thank you so much, Notiones, for posting the pictures and information about your wheels.
Years after the original posting, this thread helped me complete the mobile piece of our tractor. After three different types of wood paddles (designs found various places on the internet), some reinforced with steel mending plates, two different locations on the frame, and several different combinations of hardware to attach them to the frame.... the 1/2 inch square steel tube setup similar to what you have pictured has our tractor mobile.
When I initially decided to go with a tractor, I had visions of something light enough that I could move it around on my own without having to depend on my (much stronger) husband to move it for me. He talked me out of PVC framing and into wood, then talked me out of 2x2's in favor of 2x4's, and since we had a couple bundles of asphalt shingles, we might as well give it a "real roof". Granted, it is likely much sturdier, will probably last longer, and the coop portion will be better overall for the chickens... but it weighs a ton! The weight was the key that was preventing all my earlier wheel designs from being successful.
For anyone who may come across this later, if you've built a solid/heavy coop and run, probably larger than ideal for a tractor, don't waste your time with wood paddle type designs for attaching your wheels! Start with the steel tube and place them under the middle of the coop for the best weight distribution! Too far forward and the weight of the coop will raise the run off the ground and make it difficult to move, and too far back will make it extremely hard to pick up the run end and move the tractor.
I will take and upload a few pictures of our finished - finally mobile - tractor when I can. Maybe this thread will continue to be useful to people like me!
Years after the original posting, this thread helped me complete the mobile piece of our tractor. After three different types of wood paddles (designs found various places on the internet), some reinforced with steel mending plates, two different locations on the frame, and several different combinations of hardware to attach them to the frame.... the 1/2 inch square steel tube setup similar to what you have pictured has our tractor mobile.
When I initially decided to go with a tractor, I had visions of something light enough that I could move it around on my own without having to depend on my (much stronger) husband to move it for me. He talked me out of PVC framing and into wood, then talked me out of 2x2's in favor of 2x4's, and since we had a couple bundles of asphalt shingles, we might as well give it a "real roof". Granted, it is likely much sturdier, will probably last longer, and the coop portion will be better overall for the chickens... but it weighs a ton! The weight was the key that was preventing all my earlier wheel designs from being successful.
For anyone who may come across this later, if you've built a solid/heavy coop and run, probably larger than ideal for a tractor, don't waste your time with wood paddle type designs for attaching your wheels! Start with the steel tube and place them under the middle of the coop for the best weight distribution! Too far forward and the weight of the coop will raise the run off the ground and make it difficult to move, and too far back will make it extremely hard to pick up the run end and move the tractor.
I will take and upload a few pictures of our finished - finally mobile - tractor when I can. Maybe this thread will continue to be useful to people like me!