Bob Blosl's Heritage Large Fowl Thread

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Florida


Feb. 7-18
2013 Tampa
State Fairgrounds Florida State Fair
Purebred Poultry and Waterfowl
Exhibition and Show Fair Office
813-621-7821
FloridaStateFairAg.com
Feb. 23
2013 Inverness
Inverness County Auditorium Central Florida Poultry Breeders Association
Spring Show Ken Lee
352-794-3643 after 6PM
[email protected]
Mar. 23
2013 Pensacola
Fairgrounds Panhandle Poultry Club
2nd Annual Spring Show Information 9AM-4PM Central
James Blum 850-232-0729
Matt Ulrich 251-942-8555
Entries 9AM-4PM Central
Ella Bouley 850-686-5580
www.PanhandlePoultryClub.webs.com
I got a message from a lady who asked is there a list of shows that I could go to in Florida in the next few months. So here they are.

The one down below is Panhandle Poultry Club is our show coming up Mar 23. If you want to see a show that is laid out like the shows in Europe easy on the eyes and legs you need to come and show at our show. We have a large flower building and gem stone building at the Fair Grounds we rent. Lots of single coop space and very appealing to the eyes. The show in Inverness is a great one as well . I will post this site address for the rest of you who live in the USA then find a show to go to. You need to see what other chickens look like. Take pictures with your cell phone or just buy you a cheap Kodak or Cannon Digital camera at Wall Mart and that will do. Put them into your computer and study them.

You will be surprised at what you will see. The very best breeders go to these shows you may be able to line up a bird not right then as many times the breeders do not have any good birds for sell. I saw a Brahma bantam that took third place as a pullet. I am going to try to buy her not today but a year from know when this breeder shows again. Then I can mate my best ckl this year to this hen to help give me a shot of new blood. So there are many ways to get started but be patient. Study the breeds and make sure you get what you want.

Next year at the Newnan Show I may have three trios of Mottle Javas to share with others. This is a good way to get new folks into the hobby of a very rare breed and then they can help try to repopulate them as time goes on.

That was a nice leghorn I thought my eye was not blind. I use to hang around with a guy called the quickest eye in the west. He could spot a good bird in five seconds. Walt remembers him he is gone but he still lives on in my heart They called him the quickest eye in the West and boy he could spot them.
 
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If you insulate the roof make sure that you some air space in between the roof and the insulation also have a ridge and soffit vent so that you have good ventilation along the roof, if you don't you will be replacing the roof before it's time do to rot. (just like on a house)

RoofWithSoffitRoofVentAndBaffle.png


Chris
I was going to suggest exactly this...they call it a vent skin and it really helps keep the temperature down.
thumbsup.gif
it's also imperative if you use rigid foam insulation so that it wont melt. it is amazing how hot solar energy can get.
There was a few Sussex at the Fresno CA show last weekend.



Walt
well to my inexperienced eye, he's a beauty! sigh...gotta stick with my chosen breeds though. still...
http://www.browneggblueegg.com/Shows.html

now when you get to this site save it for the future
Thanks!
 
If you insulate the roof make sure that you some air space in between the roof and the insulation also have a ridge and soffit vent so that you have good ventilation along the roof, if you don't you will be replacing the roof before it's time do to rot. (just like on a house)

RoofWithSoffitRoofVentAndBaffle.png


Chris

Chris is exactly right. My coop looks like this:

So I know what you're thinking. Metal siding, metal roof - its going to be an oven in there. Right? I live in the midwest. That means we can have 5-6 weeks straight in summer, where the day time temps are 100+ and it doesn't get below 85 at night. Conversely, in winter, single digits aren't unknown and 10-20 is the range we expect at night and sometimes even during the day. I did not insulate my coop. However otherwise it is constructed exactly per Chris' diagram above. Last summer I could go and sit in the coop in the middle of the day and while not cool it was never hotter than it was outside (I had a thermometer in the coop to verify that). As for winter....you can see I have storm windows on the coop (one on each side wall). I have never closed them, no matter how cold it got. Their roost is located where they do not have a draft so I figure the more ventilation they get, the better. If you look at Chris' diagram, there is ventilation via the roof ridge vent, and with the windows open there is also ventilation that way. I've had no issues with condensation and no frostbite even though I have mostly single-combed birds.
 
If you insulate the roof make sure that you some air space in between the roof and the insulation also have a ridge and soffit vent so that you have good ventilation along the roof, if you don't you will be replacing the roof before it's time do to rot. (just like on a house)

RoofWithSoffitRoofVentAndBaffle.png


Chris

Chris, I was wondering if you have a full illustration of this post? I understand the roof ventilation but how does the air space INSIDE the barn/house vent to that air flow space?

Looking at this, I can imagine that this type of roof would make it a LOT cooler inside the barn during the day? My barn is what was here when I moved here a couple years ago. This is going to be embarrassing to me to tell y'all this, but remember please, I DID NOT BUILD THIS THING.

My "barn" is built from 4x8 pallets that have been covered with OSB plywood.... including the roof!!!!

I am trying to figure out exactly how to put a real roof over the existing structure so that when it rains (on the occasions when it does) that my roof won't leak and hopefully, a system like the illustration above would make it a lot cooler inside. I live in the Nevada desert and I don't have a single tree on my property. Leaves a lot to be desired but I can plant trees and my view of the mountains is highly pleasing!
 
Sorry to have disappeared into the ether, just got really busy! The software that I found for tracking expenses, etc. I just googled "poultry expense software" or something of the sort.

Marengoite, I haven't checked out your link yet, but will. Sounds very promising.

Bob, I got the appointment with Frank Reese set up for next Wednesday afternoon and he says it's okay to take some pics, so I'll post probably on Thursday. Really excited to learn from him. It's a couple hours from here but will be well worth the drive. Hechicken, another local chicken lady, and I are going to be Tek Trolling our shoes and doing our best, short of a haz mat suit, to decontaminate ourselves so that we may get a bit of a tour. We'll see.

We're having quite the snow here today. DH tells me we could get up to 14 inches of snow by tomorrow. We need the moisture but a little moderation would be nice.
 
Chris, I was wondering if you have a full illustration of this post? I understand the roof ventilation but how does the air space INSIDE the barn/house vent to that air flow space?

Looking at this, I can imagine that this type of roof would make it a LOT cooler inside the barn during the day? My barn is what was here when I moved here a couple years ago. This is going to be embarrassing to me to tell y'all this, but remember please, I DID NOT BUILD THIS THING.

My "barn" is built from 4x8 pallets that have been covered with OSB plywood.... including the roof!!!!

I am trying to figure out exactly how to put a real roof over the existing structure so that when it rains (on the occasions when it does) that my roof won't leak and hopefully, a system like the illustration above would make it a lot cooler inside. I live in the Nevada desert and I don't have a single tree on my property. Leaves a lot to be desired but I can plant trees and my view of the mountains is highly pleasing!
I will look for a Illustration to post but for now;

You don't want the air from the barn/house in that air space, when you insulate a building you don't want the warm or cool air of the building hitting the cold/hot roof (it will cause condensation on the inside of the roof just like condensation will build on a glass of ice water on a hot day .
When we start insulating a barn, house or any structure that may have warmer/cooler interior temperature than exterior temperature we start a whole new ball game, and new rules are in play.

Chris
 
I would add to that illustration vents as close to the peak of the gables as possible. Because with this sort of system, you are cutting off the air flow from low to high through the top of the roof. Important for many reasons to be sure you have that ventilation inside the coop, not just under the roof but where the coop air can vent as well.
 
I would add to that illustration vents as close to the peak of the gables as possible. Because with this sort of system, you are cutting off the air flow from low to high through the top of the roof. Important for many reasons to be sure you have that ventilation inside the coop, not just under the roof but where the coop air can vent as well.
I was amazed when I foamed my roof, and the underside of my house, that they closed up ALL outside air sources. The chimney effect was cut off. I have saved hundreds of dollars a year since then. You can go into my attic on a 105 degree day, and the attic temps will be in the high 80s.The roof decking is COOL on the underside. This technology is upsetting the applecart about everything we know.The theory is that most attics cooked from the heat buildup on the UNDERSIDE.My attic now feels air conditioned on really hot days.

With chickens, it gets a bit more complicated. We need to exhaust ammonia, and warm moist air.A cupola with a sealed attic above, and a vent below, seems to be the ticket.This will supply a heat release source in the summer also while the roof stays cool./
 
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