BYC SEWING/QUILTING CLUB

Scrambled, that is going to be a great quilt for your son, can't wait to see the finished quilt. My oldest brother used to race stock cars too.

I know some people don't like shopping at Wally World, but if yours still has their fabric section check them out. They will be getting rid of the fabric sections of the crafts section as each store is scheduled for a remodel. In the meantime, they are putting their fabrics on sale to reduce inventories, some from $1.50 to 2.00 per yard.

I know they had some Bob the Builder and John Deere fabrics at my local one, as well as some other fabrics that had race cars, trucks, tractors, etc.
 
I need some advice.....please. I am really frustrated trying to bond the non-woven, facing, stabilizer, stuff, whatever you call it to my pieces of cotton. I want to reinforce the fabric in order to machine embroider but my fabric is ending up looking wrinkled and not smooth.
hmm.png
Is there a certain brand that is better to use than another? Does anyone have any tips for me?
 
Are you ironing it down first Leeps? Wonder if the "fusing" first would help make it smoother? I use it all the time for my applique, the cheapest stuff I can find although I did use 2.99 a yard intrfacing for my bycville blocks and found it very bulky, either way, the end result came out smooth for me though becasue I steam ironed them with the fuse side against my applique and then sewed it down..I am no expert by any stretch but I might would do my embroidery first and then iron the interfacing to the back of it afterward with the fuse side against your embroidery..othrs may sure have better ideas though, just know in my limited experience that is working for me
smile.png
 
Quote:
Scrambled is right, you need to iron the fabric after the embroidery is done. There are two types of fusing, permanent and water soluble. The water soluble is used for really lightweight fabrics to stabilize and give them some body during embroidery or quilting. Once done, you simply soak it in warm water and it melts away. The other is to permanently fuse two types of fabrics together.

Maybe Acres can shed some more light on this, but that is what I was taught.

EDITED: I meant to say that you need to iron the fusable first so that it adheres then embroider, but if it is puckering it could be caused by the stitch tension vs stitch length. You might try adjusting the thread tension as well as your stitch length.
 
Last edited:
Thanks a bunch for the answers. The directions with the sewing machine says to fuse before embroidering so that the fabric is stabilized. I'm just going to have to work with it. Maybe I need to have a damper ironing cloth.
idunno.gif
 
Nanakat and Scrambled, your quilts are beautiful!


Ok, so I need to vent a bit... I've been working on this quilt for my sister and I have now laid it all out and started pinning it to the batting and the backing twice and have had to take all the pins out again. After the first time I shortened up the length a bit, thinking it was enough. I planned for the quilt to be 90" long and had the backing cut so that it would be long enough. I assumed that I had made a math error when I planned my borders for the quilt. Well, I measured the backing tonight to find that it was cut 5" short! No wonder it wasn't working out! So, now I have to reduce the length of the quilt yet again to work with this backing or else go buy a new piece! Sorry... I'm just frustrated. I really want to get to work quilting this because I'm running out of time.
 
Chevy, could you build the backing up a bit? If it's 5" short, perhaps you could add 2.75" at the top and bottom with a matching solid, or even some scraps from the top?

Just a thought.........




ETA that I say 2.75" addition for a 1/4" seam allowance at each end.
 
Last edited:

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom