California - Northern

[casportpony]

 

Probably best to take fecal samples to a vet (or send them to Davis) and see if you have a problem with worms. That should tell you what type of worms you have (if you have any), from there you could research the treatment needed. All the contradictions make my head spin, too, so you're not alone, lol.

-Kathy

Thanks. I guess I'm mostly confused because some people are prophylactically dosing their birds on a regular schedule rather than treating for a known problem and there's so much contradictory information about what works and how to administer it. But as my chicks don't arrive for another two weeks, I guess I can quit being a worry wart, LOL!

One could spend months going through all the different threads about worming and medicating, i know I have, lol, but I also read lots of studies on the efficacy and safety of the various wormers/medications, have purchased books and spoken with *many* vets and pathologists about dosing, efficacy, safety, disease, etc. It does not make me an expert, but I feel like I know way more than I did two years ago.

For someone with a small flock I think it would be quite easy to monitor their parasite load through routine fecals. I'm no expert, but I think it would be best to gather up fresh poop, both cecal and regular and send that off to a lab or find a local vet that will look at it for you. Most it should cost at a vet is the office visit ($45-$65) and fecal float ($15-$30). From that a vet can advise you on the proper wormer, dose, frequency, etc.

-Kathy

 

[casportpony]

 

Thanks. I guess I'm mostly confused because some people are prophylactically dosing their birds on a regular schedule rather than treating for a known problem and there's so much contradictory information about what works and how to administer it. But as my chicks don't arrive for another two weeks, I guess I can quit being a worry wart, LOL!

Only listen to the people you know and trust. There is a ton of misinformation online these days. Most people giving advice are not qualified and probably read it online somewhere. Chickens are really easy to raise, but you can make it as difficult as you like.

Walt

I agree, listen to people you know and trust, but also do your own research, 'cause you're correct, lots of misinformation out there, some of it is really quite dangerous and has probably killed many birds.

-Kathy

 

[ronott1]

I agree, listen to people you know and trust, but also do your own research, 'cause you're correct, lots of misinformation out there, some of it is really quite dangerous and has probably killed many birds.

-Kathy


-Kathy

This is very true!

One thing to remember is that you should not combine treatments with chickens. Less is more too so do not jump to high powered anti biotics unless it is really needed--like if a necropsy and advice from them says you need to.

 

[HighStreetCoop]

For someone with a small flock I think it would be quite easy to monitor their parasite load through routine fecals. I'm no expert, but I think it would be best to gather up fresh poop, both cecal and regular and send that off to a lab or find a local vet that will look at it for you. Most it should cost at a vet is the office visit ($45-$65) and fecal float ($15-$30). From that a vet can advise you on the proper wormer, dose, frequency, etc.

-Kathy

Thanks! That sounds reasonable. I tend towards "overzealous" when it comes to pets but I don't like to medicate them unless it's necessary.

 

[sol2go]

I don't have any charts. But it's a little washed out in the pic.
I can say that my CL lay a very similar color. The only way I could tell is this pullet decided to lay ontop of a pen in the coop. So I caught her in the act and after removed her wrong hiding spot. Otherwise it would be hard to decipher between the two breeds. If that makes sense

that's helpful. I have CL and Ameraucana, so blue eggs catch my eye!
There are a few different charts, I always seem to misplace mine:
The Ameraucana club chart
the On-line Auction Chart (OAC)
some people use color chips from the paint store
or Pantone Cards.

 

[sol2go]

I'd like to hear what any of you are feeding your roosters and if you make an effort to provide separate feeders when you have a rooster with hens.

 

[chrissyr]

One could spend months going through all the different threads about worming and medicating, i know I have, lol, but I also read lots of studies on the efficacy and safety of the various wormers/medications, have purchased books and spoken with *many* vets and pathologists about dosing, efficacy, safety, disease, etc. It does not make me an expert, but I feel like I know way more than I did two years ago.

For someone with a small flock I think it would be quite easy to monitor their parasite load through routine fecals. I'm no expert, but I think it would be best to gather up fresh poop, both cecal and regular and send that off to a lab or find a local vet that will look at it for you. Most it should cost at a vet is the office visit ($45-$65) and fecal float ($15-$30). From that a vet can advise you on the proper wormer, dose, frequency, etc.

-Kathy

For worms or cocci questions I can search those words with "caportpony" or "ronott1" and find a wealth of knowledge So many helpful people here

 

[ronott1]

I'd like to hear what any of you are feeding your roosters and if you make an effort to provide separate feeders when you have a rooster with hens.

My roosters get grower feed and the breeding pens get it too. Calcium is in a separate feeder so the hens can eat it free choice.

I have seen necropsy reports from Roosters that died at 2 or three years old from kidney failure so too much calcium can hurt them.

If they get some layer it is ok. It takes a long time for too much calcium to do them in.

 

[casportpony]

I agree, listen to people you know and trust, but also do your own research, 'cause you're correct, lots of misinformation out there, some of it is really quite dangerous and has probably killed many birds.

-Kathy

This is very true!

One thing to remember is that you should not combine treatments with chickens. Less is more too so do not jump to high powered anti biotics unless it is really needed--like if a necropsy and advice from them says you need to.

This is when consulting with a vet would be best. Some diseases, like blackhead, can require using multiple drugs at the same time - metronidazole for the protozoa, Baytril for the probable E.coli infection and Safeguard for the cecal worm.

Before giving multiple medications, vitamins, minerals, etc, one should thoroughly research each drug and it's drug interactions. For example, some oral antibiotics should not be given with some minerals, like tetracyclines and Baytril should not be given with calcium.

I'm all for necropsies, but legally UC Davis cannot advise on a treatment plan, so this is where having a vet comes in handy... If you're lucky, you can call that vet and tell them what the necropsy report said and they might suggest a treatment plan.

-Kathy

 

[Audio51]

Quote: I think we do sometimes, with the best of intentions, end up making our birds weaker. I think the best way, when breeding, is to give as little medication as possible and only when really needed. If we treat every time we hear a sneeze or see a bird looking sleepy, we end up building a flock dependant on the medications. This is true with finches too. I raise Gouldian Finches and for a very long time they were considered to be very delicate birds. They had to be kept in a very narrow temperature range (about 75 to 85 degrees) constantly. People said they were hard to breed and would die at the drop of a hat. They were daid to be terrible parents that would toss thier newly hatched chicks out of the nest to die. Some siad the only way to breed them was to let Society Finches raise the chicks. They were contantly treating them for anything and everything. They became dependant on medications, especially antibiotics. Breeders would keep them on them all the time and then, when someone bought them and took them home, they would die soon because they had no rsistance to anything. I have been raising them for nearly 10 years now and mine live outside year round with temps from the mid to low 20s up to 105. I can't remember the last time I gave antibiotics to them...probably at least 5 years ago. Mine raise lots of healthy happy and hardy babies. I did go thru a time in the beginning when I lost a lot, but that was because they had been bred from weak stock. The strong ones lived to reproduce and make the entire flock stronger.